How would real-world involve a battery operated amplifier hooked up to pre-out???@amirm : it would be nice if you can comment on the THD issue. I can see that the 1 kHz component disappears when I measure using laptop on battery. I am not convinced that your results represent the THD+noise figures when in practical use.
I don’t know. Do I have USB packet noise on my output? I can’t see that.How would real-world involve a battery operated amplifier hooked up to pre-out???
If using the analog input -> analog output, how would the signal be degraded?
Is there an ADC/DAC conversion?
See my previous graphs and links as well. I doubt there is much difference between NR1510 and NR1710. With pure direct it is quite clean but you loose bass management, Audyssey etc.If using the analog input -> analog output, how would the signal be degraded?
Is there an ADC/DAC conversion?
See my previous graphs and links as well. I doubt there is much difference between NR1510 and NR1710. With pure direct it is quite clean but you loose bass management, Audyssey etc.
If you are talking about the pre out, yes it will typically go through ADC/DAC unless you use direct/pure direct modes.
So what do you think about the 1 kHz overtones? Real THD figures or measurement issue?This is a horrible amplifier. How can they design such a thing in 2022? All the amplifier designers have already died?
In case you speak about THD 1kHz spectrum in @amirm measurements in post #1, I am afraid the issue is the amplifier, not the measurements. It looks very realistic, like the poorly designed power amplifiers do behave. Harmonics are on behalf of the poor output stage, the lines near 1kHz (the “skirts”) are a modulation effect due to poor PSRR of the amplifier.So what do you think about the 1 kHz overtones? Real THD figures or measurement issue?
And I can replicate it but also make them disappear with battery powered laptop connection with the USB ADC. And no sign of such distortion in actual use.In case you speak about THD 1kHz spectrum in @amirm measurements in post #1, I am afraid the issue is the amplifier, not the measurements. It looks very realistic, like the poorly designed power amplifiers do behave. Harmonics are on behalf of the poor output stage, the lines near 1kHz (the “skirts”) are a modulation effect due to poor PSRR of the amplifier.
And I can replicate it but also make them disappear with battery powered laptop connection with the USB ADC. And no sign of such distortion in actual use.
I may revisit with some measurements but not at the moment. Soon have some holidays with some spare time.How does your 1710 measure with your USB ADC when you run it with something like the Multitone tool? Even with a low-end ADC, it would be good to see your graphs?
Multitone - Loopback Analyzer for Audio | Distort documentation
Multitone is currently in beta test. Use at your own risk!distortaudio.org
I may revisit with some measurements but not at the moment. Soon have some holidays with some spare time.
I have the NR1506 as well to measure on. I will see what time permits.No worries. It's super-fast to run multiwave and can be helpful to fine tune systems. Takes you less than 5 minutes and all you need to do is play with the HDMI output volume and your NR1710 volume.
There's a real chance that the 1510 and 1710 are a bigger difference than would be expected based upon the specifications. The 1710 has a different video processor (component input, 4k upscaling) so it's more than just 2 extra amps. It's very possible some subtle cost savings for the 1510 translate into a big drop in measured performance. A lot of what I am hearing is that people are happy with the flagship slimline (for the intended purpose) and the NR1608 (which I no longer have) measured very respectably. When looking at 20-88kHz THD+N, it can beat the Topping PA-5 even.
A buddy of mine went the separates way many years ago (at my insistence, as he was building a new house and wanted the best of everything), hated the system because he couldn't turn it on or do anything easily so boxed it all up and has had sound bars ever since. Last year he bought the best Sonos Arc soundbar, the sub and I gave him 2 wireless Sonos satellites for surround back duties and he loves it-he turns it on and it works. I have to admit it sounds pretty good for a sound bar + sub + 2 satellites.I’m building new home theater, beginning to think a Sonos Arc system is way to go then a nice dedicated 2.1 for music. Not sure I want to chase multichannel perfection.
Most, and by most I'm thinking the way better part of 90%, people want exactly this. Turn it on and watch. Nothing to fool around with. And I don;t blame them, as I lean this way myself for the most part.A buddy of mine went the separates way many years ago (at my insistence, as he was building a new house and wanted the best of everything), hated the system because he couldn't turn it on or do anything easily so boxed it all up and has had sound bars ever since. Last year he bought the best Sonos Arc soundbar, the sub and I gave him 2 wireless Sonos satellites for surround back duties and he loves it-he turns it on and it works. I have to admit it sounds pretty good for a sound bar + sub + 2 satellites.
Took me some considerable effort to get everything to flow with CEC and a Harmony remote when I set things up 11 years ago. I am still loathe to change anything in the setup for fear of breaking it. There is definitely virtue in simplicity.Most, and by most I'm thinking the way better part of 90%, people want exactly this. Turn it on and watch. Nothing to fool around with. And I don;t blame them, as I lean this way myself for the most part.