Marantz Cinema 70s AVR Review

[peng]

I think I may be having a difficult time understanding the connection chain with what you're describing. If I were to go with a stereo receiver - since they typically don't have any RC software - I would be looking for something that I could take some measurements with REW on my Mac Mini, apply whatever EQ filters I need to apply, and upload that information without requiring my Mac to be connected to my HT. What you're describing with DLBC makes it seem like you need to have a computer somewhere in the chain to get any kind of DSP for the system, which I cannot do. The NAD C3050 might fit that bill since it does have Dirac, but I would be unsure how to get all of my source devices to fit (my TV only has so many HDMI ports).



The prices of things do tend to bounce around based on demand, so it could be they had a bunch of people place some orders for it, and Amazon bumped up the price based on the demand.

I have been using my two channel systems on my notebook windows pc for a few years and have no intention to go back to anything else at this point. And again, I have already paid for the DL and BC licenses. My only issue is that without a sub in that room DL couldn't fix the bass well. Cost is $729 for the two channel version.
You can do a 14 day free trial, you may like it:

It works like this:
1) Install Dirac on a windows or Mac PC, I used my MacBook Pro, a windows desktop and a tiny windows notebook.

Dirac Live Room Correction Suite – Dirac

Dirac Live Room Correction Suite features patented algorithms to digitally reduce the room impacts and enhance the accuracy of sound reproduction, from timing and frequency...

www.dirac.com

2) Use windows and DL to configure DLBC for two speakers+1 or 2 subs.
3) Do the calibration just like you would on any device such as an AVR, minidsp flex etc., except in this case you will run it on the PC.
4) Once complete, the filters will be on the DL processor and from that point on, any music you play from the windows (or MacOS) PC will have the correction of DLBC.

So really the only difference is, instead of running DLBC on an AV device, it runs on the PC, that's all. You may not like using a PC with music listening but a lot of people like it. I don't particular like it until I try either, now most of the time I listen to two channel music on my PC running DL and JRiver.

 

[peng]

Just finish chatting with Denon, as expected, they didn't even understand my two questions, but was willing to have someone get back to me via email.

 

[peng]

I think I may be having a difficult time understanding the connection chain with what you're describing. If I were to go with a stereo receiver - since they typically don't have any RC software - I would be looking for something that I could take some measurements with REW on my Mac Mini, apply whatever EQ filters I need to apply, and upload that information without requiring my Mac to be connected to my HT. What you're describing with DLBC makes it seem like you need to have a computer somewhere in the chain to get any kind of DSP for the system, which I cannot do. The NAD C3050 might fit that bill since it does have Dirac, but I would be unsure how to get all of my source devices to fit (my TV only has so many HDMI ports).



The prices of things do tend to bounce around based on demand, so it could be they had a bunch of people place some orders for it, and Amazon bumped up the price based on the demand.

Which part of the connection chain you have difficulty understanding?
Basically you just have to install Dirac PC standalone version:

Motu M4 Audio Interface Review

This is a review of Motu M4 4x4 audio interface (DAC and ADC). It is on kind loan from a member and costs US $220. The enclosure is heavy gauge metal and sturdy: The front inputs are for microphones with higher gain. For my testing I used the Line in (and out) in the back: For testing I...

www.audiosciencereview.com

Dirac Live standalone for PC and Mac

As my fellow forumers likely know already, we have released a Dirac Live update for Windows which provides a virtual audio card (in addition to plugins) so that systemwide correction of all audio from the PC is available. We are now going to release an update of the Mac version as well that will...

www.audiosciencereview.com

I have been using my two channel systems on my notebook windows pc for a few years and have no intention to go back to anything else at this point. And again, I have already paid for the DL and BC licenses. My only issue is that without a sub in that room DL couldn't fix the bass well.

Without using a sub, DLBC does well enough with my 2 channel system based on the KEF R900, but the one with the BMR isn't that good, understandably, as they are bookshelf speakers.

FR graph belows are just Dirac Live without the bass control version.

 

[ziggurcat]

Which part of the connection chain you have difficulty understanding?
Basically you just have to install Dirac PC standalone version:

Motu M4 Audio Interface Review

This is a review of Motu M4 4x4 audio interface (DAC and ADC). It is on kind loan from a member and costs US $220. The enclosure is heavy gauge metal and sturdy: The front inputs are for microphones with higher gain. For my testing I used the Line in (and out) in the back: For testing I...

www.audiosciencereview.com

Dirac Live standalone for PC and Mac

As my fellow forumers likely know already, we have released a Dirac Live update for Windows which provides a virtual audio card (in addition to plugins) so that systemwide correction of all audio from the PC is available. We are now going to release an update of the Mac version as well that will...

www.audiosciencereview.com

I have been using my two channel systems on my notebook windows pc for a few years and have no intention to go back to anything else at this point. And again, I have already paid for the DL and BC licenses. My only issue is that without a sub in that room DL couldn't fix the bass well.

Without using a sub, DLBC does well enough with my 2 channel system based on the KEF R900, but the one with the BMR isn't that good, understandably, as they are bookshelf speakers.

FR graph belows are just Dirac Live without the bass control version.


View attachment 343753

I think I get it, now. I just couldn't have a PC/Mac in my HT chain, so that solution wouldn't work. So right now, the best solution - if I were to go with a Stereo receiver like the DRA-900H or Marantz Stereo 70s - would be to add a miniDSP between the receiver and power amplifier (that way I can upload the filters to the miniDSP). The other option could be the NAD C3050 (which has Dirac), the Yamaha N-800A (which has YPAO), and add a HDMI switcher to be able to connect all of my HDMI source devices.

Or I wait for the B-Stock Cinema 70s to be available - this is the simplest solution, I think.

 

[LCListener]

I have a 3.1 setup in my family room with:

• Marantz NR1506 receiver
• Paradigm MilleniaOne Speakers
• SVS PC-2000 Pro Sub
• LG G3 TV
• Apple TV 4K
• Panasonic DP-UP820 UHD Bluray player
• Zapperbox M1 OTA tuner and DVR

We use this setup for OTA viewing, streaming via Netflix, Apple TV+, etc. and playing UHD discs. The Zapperbox, Apple TV 4K, and the Panasonic Bluray player are all connected to the Marantz via HDMI inputs with an HDMI output to the LG TV. I am thinking about doing some gaming on the LG TV using a PS5 and my older Marantz receiver does not handle VRR, 120Hz, or ALLM so I am thinking about purchasing a new receiver. So far there are three reviews of the Marantz Cinema 70, one from this site, one from Trusted Reviews, and one from a Norwegian site
These three reviews seem to reach different conclusions about the sound quality of the Cinema 70. Trusted reviews and the Norwegian site give the Cinema 70 stellar marks while this site does not recommend it. In my use case if I purchase a Cinema 70 vs a different product will I notice a difference in sound quality? If so, what other product(s) should I consider instead of the Cinema 70? I do like the slim chassis of the Marantz products and really have no need to go beyond my 3.1 setup in terms of adding more speakers. I have a full 7.2.4 setup in my basement home theater for watching movies

@HendersonD I have the C70s in a multipurpose room fulfilling duties similar to what you describe and am very pleased with it (for the Safe and Sound open box price of about USD 900). As discussed at length here, there may have been some idiosyncrasies in Amir’s tests. Regardless, I think the audio quality is surely “good enough” for dedicated stereo listening. I’ll likely expand my system from 3.1 to 5.1 in the near future and expect the unit to continue to perform well. And if a concern about power did arise, I’ll just use the pre-outs and add a 2- or 3-channel amp.

Given the slim form factor is valuable to you, I’m not aware of any direct price/features competitors. If you’re okay with full height, then you probably don’t need the forum to make a recommendation from the many available options. Even against the full-height competitors, I like the Marantz’s lux features (that some may dismiss as “lifestyle”) such as the quality and backlit remote, HD on-screen menu, front panel design, etc.

Long story short, if you’re happy with your current NR, but just want the ability to integrate gaming systems and have a bit of AV source future proofing, I think it’s a great choice.

 

[ban25]

I think I get it, now. I just couldn't have a PC/Mac in my HT chain, so that solution wouldn't work. So right now, the best solution - if I were to go with a Stereo receiver like the DRA-900H or Marantz Stereo 70s - would be to add a miniDSP between the receiver and power amplifier (that way I can upload the filters to the miniDSP). The other option could be the NAD C3050 (which has Dirac), the Yamaha N-800A (which has YPAO), and add a HDMI switcher to be able to connect all of my HDMI source devices.

Or I wait for the B-Stock Cinema 70s to be available - this is the simplest solution, I think.

I've had my eye on the C3050 for a long-time. I was on a waiting list for an LE, but missed it unfortunately. That said, for your HDMI sources, I think the only option is probably a real AVR like the 900H or Stereo 70s. The reason why is audio codecs. I don't think the C3050 can even decode Dolby Digital (like the Powernode can), let alone DTS, DTS-MA, DD Atmos, etc.

 

[ziggurcat]

I've had my eye on the C3050 for a long-time. I was on a waiting list for an LE, but missed it unfortunately. That said, for your HDMI sources, I think the only option is probably a real AVR like the 900H or Stereo 70s. The reason why is audio codecs. I don't think the C3050 can even decode Dolby Digital (like the Powernode can), let alone DTS, DTS-MA, DD Atmos, etc.

You are correct in that assumption - it does not support DD/DTS, etc... it basically just says it's only 2ch PCM. I don't see the lack of DD/DTS support as a problem if everything is working just fine with all of my source devices in my system (cable box, PS5 and Switch - RPi is for music, which is PCM anyway) set to PCM right now having dropped down to a 2.1ch system. And with better room correction in Dirac vs. Audyssey, I may end up with a better-sounding system with the C3050 (may being the operative word, here). And I think I have my HDMI port problem solved with an HDMI switcher (if I move up to 8K, I just swap out the switcher for less than $100 instead of a whole new AVR).

The only real thing I have against the Stereo 70s or DRA-900H is the lack of room correction/EQ. I get that they probably have tone controls and maybe a manual X-band EQ, but I need something more refined than that. Neither manual indicates that you can implement any form of bass management, either - so no setting speaker crossovers or LPF for LFE. Sure, you can set distances, and trim levels, but that's all. If there is a feasible method of applying EQ/bass management with those devices, I am not going to discount them as an option because they are much less expensive than the NAD.

 

[peng]

You are correct in that assumption - it does not support DD/DTS, etc... it basically just says it's only 2ch PCM. I don't see the lack of DD/DTS support as a problem if everything is working just fine with all of my source devices in my system (cable box, PS5 and Switch - RPi is for music, which is PCM anyway) set to PCM right now having dropped down to a 2.1ch system. And with better room correction in Dirac vs. Audyssey, I may end up with a better-sounding system with the C3050 (may being the operative word, here). And I think I have my HDMI port problem solved with an HDMI switcher (if I move up to 8K, I just swap out the switcher for less than $100 instead of a whole new AVR).

I couldn't find any reason to pay more for the C3050 other than if one really don't mind paying for the look/vu meters etc. There are obvious pros but there are some not insignificant cons:

- cheap looking binding posts
- unimpressive audio specs such as only 95 dB SNR A weighted, not bad though
- mediocre DAC, supposedly differential implementation but why go with a low spec IC?
- limited DL license, I highly doubt the bass control would work on this thing
- SINAD at 2 V pre out spec is likely be around the low 80's based on THD alone is -86 dB, again, not bad, but most likely worse than the Denon/Marantz 2 ch receivers

I think with the C3050, you would be paying for the other things (e.g. vu meters, the silly BlueOS that increase production costs, with no audio performance benefits). Like the much hyped silly proprietary MQA, I am not sure if the BlueOS/Bluesound will sustain their current popularity for too much longer. For someone who are used to use windows, Linus, MacOS, I never understand the need to have those new ways of doing things.

The only real thing I have against the Stereo 70s or DRA-900H is the lack of room correction/EQ. I get that they probably have tone controls and maybe a manual X-band EQ, but I need something more refined than that. Neither manual indicates that you can implement any form of bass management, either - so no setting speaker crossovers or LPF for LFE. Sure, you can set distances, and trim levels, but that's all. If there is a feasible method of applying EQ/bass management with those devices, I am not going to discount them as an option because they are much less expensive than the NAD.

I don't think you are totally correct on this, according to the manual, you can set crossovers, between 40 and 150 Hz, default is 80 Hz, if you set subwoofer to "Yes". There is no LPF for LFE and I think it does not have the LFE channel capability to begin with. To me, the DRA-900H and Stereo 70 are mainly for 2 channel music, for movies with the LFE tracks, the Cinema 70 would be the one and I am sure you know that already.

Back to music listening, if you have a small laptop or notebook PC, I highly recommend you try out DLBC, 14 days should be enough for you to find out if you like the effects on sound quality. To me, when I toggle between the filter on and off, the difference truly fit the description people often used, i.e. "veil lifted". I have many dacs, a few preamps/prepro, power amps, none of those things make as much difference as using room correction/eq.

I understand you have issues with using a PC to play music, but can you not use a mini device or a mini desktop that you can easily hide? With the PC version, if your priority is two channel, with 1 or 2 subs, there really is no disadvantage in terms of audio performance and the PC has all sort of processing power that you are not going to limited by the likes of the C3050, minidsp, entry level AVRs/AVPs etc., and you won't have worry about having the upgrade itch a few years later, as a windows 11 PC will probably remain current for 10 years. As I mentioned before, with everything played on windows, I find it very convenient in using Dirac Live listening to music with JRiver, Foobar or similar software, and streaming on Qubuz, that I find way better than they much hyped Tidal, never liked paying for MQA but even when they gave it up, I found Qobuz and Amazon much better, as they seem to have more high resolution varieties and much better support, if ever needed.

By the way, I could have order the DRA-900H at that same C$763 price point last night from Vision, but I am not waiting for Denon to answer my questions so will wait for the next opportunity, hopefully the next good sale like this will be for the Marantz Stereo, or Cinema 70, even if for $100 more.

Since Amazon wasn't the only one that offered that low price, it likely is legit, may be some kind of D+M's flash sale. Last time I have seen such kind of bigger than normal discount was a few years ago on the Marantz SR7012, 7013, in Canada only. At those points, those were a couple hundred dollars lower than their equivalent Denon AVRs, I almost bought one just for spare lol... One time I caught such a short duration sale from Bay Bloor Radio (sort of a high end dealer) on my only NAD integrated amps, at price even much lower than that in the USA, same on my only pro amp, the QSC amp, at incredibly low price. So if we are not in a hurry, we should wait..., even the Cinema 70, price will eventually drop. As it is now, $1,299 is actually borderline on being ridiculous.

 

[HendersonD]

@HendersonD I have the C70s in a multipurpose room fulfilling duties similar to what you describe and am very pleased with it (for the Safe and Sound open box price of about USD 900). As discussed at length here, there may have been some idiosyncrasies in Amir’s tests. Regardless, I think the audio quality is surely “good enough” for dedicated stereo listening. I’ll likely expand my system from 3.1 to 5.1 in the near future and expect the unit to continue to perform well. And if a concern about power did arise, I’ll just use the pre-outs and add a 2- or 3-channel amp.

Given the slim form factor is valuable to you, I’m not aware of any direct price/features competitors. If you’re okay with full height, then you probably don’t need the forum to make a recommendation from the many available options. Even against the full-height competitors, I like the Marantz’s lux features (that some may dismiss as “lifestyle”) such as the quality and backlit remote, HD on-screen menu, front panel design, etc.

Long story short, if you’re happy with your current NR, but just want the ability to integrate gaming systems and have a bit of AV source future proofing, I think it’s a great choice.

Thanks for your thoughtful response. There are some of Amir's tests that I simply do not have the background to understand and interpret. Given that, some of the tests seem to not apply to my situation like driving a 4ohm load. The reviews on this site are very analytical/measurement oriented while the review on the Norwegian site focuses on actually listening to music and movies. I tend to learn more from a review that incorporates actual listening tests. Your take on the Cinema 70s is also from a listeners point of view which I appreciate

 

[peng]

I have a 3.1 setup in my family room with:

• Marantz NR1506 receiver
• Paradigm MilleniaOne Speakers
• SVS PC-2000 Pro Sub
• LG G3 TV
• Apple TV 4K
• Panasonic DP-UP820 UHD Bluray player
• Zapperbox M1 OTA tuner and DVR

We use this setup for OTA viewing, streaming via Netflix, Apple TV+, etc. and playing UHD discs. The Zapperbox, Apple TV 4K, and the Panasonic Bluray player are all connected to the Marantz via HDMI inputs with an HDMI output to the LG TV. I am thinking about doing some gaming on the LG TV using a PS5 and my older Marantz receiver does not handle VRR, 120Hz, or ALLM so I am thinking about purchasing a new receiver. So far there are three reviews of the Marantz Cinema 70, one from this site, one from Trusted Reviews, and one from a Norwegian site
These three reviews seem to reach different conclusions about the sound quality of the Cinema 70. Trusted reviews and the Norwegian site give the Cinema 70 stellar marks while this site does not recommend it. In my use case if I purchase a Cinema 70 vs a different product will I notice a difference in sound quality? If so, what other product(s) should I consider instead of the Cinema 70? I do like the slim chassis of the Marantz products and really have no need to go beyond my 3.1 setup in terms of adding more speakers. I have a full 7.2.4 setup in my basement home theater for watching movies

Can you get Anthem there? https://www.audioholics.com/av-receiver-reviews/anthem-mrx-slm

 

[LCListener]

Can you get Anthem there? https://www.audioholics.com/av-receiver-reviews/anthem-mrx-slm

The Anthem is a cool new entrant, but with only a single HDMI input and no pre-outs it is more limited in its ability to serve as a hub for a multi use and source entertainment system.

My guess is that Anthem’s prices will also hang closer to the $1300 MSRP. In its favor, the Anthem may have higher quality DACs than the C70s.

 

[peng]

The Anthem is a cool new entrant, but with only a single HDMI input and no pre-outs it is more limited in its ability to serve as a hub for a multi use and source entertainment system.

My guess is that Anthem’s prices will also hang closer to the $1300 MSRP. In its favor, the Anthem may have higher quality DACs than the C70s.

Of course, it won't be for you, but it may be suitable for HendersonD, who seemed to be wondering if those avrs would have different sound quality, and also asked "If so, what other product(s) should I consider instead of the Cinema 70?" Assuming he meant slimline avrs, there aren't that many slim avrs, so I mentioned the Anthem as a potential alternative.

 

[HendersonD]

Can you get Anthem there? https://www.audioholics.com/av-receiver-reviews/anthem-mrx-slm

The Anthem is an interesting product. I would have to hook all my external devices to the TV and use eARC back to the Anthem since the Anthem has limited HDMI ports

 

[jaakkopetteri]

No pre-outs rules it out for me too, but I don't see the problem in using a TV as the hub instead of cramming ports into compact receivers

 

[LCListener]

Of course, it won't be for you, but it may be suitable for HendersonD, who seemed to be wondering if those avrs would have different sound quality, and also asked "If so, what other product(s) should I consider instead of the Cinema 70?" Assuming he meant slimline avrs, there aren't that many slim avrs, so I mentioned the Anthem as a potential alternative.

@peng I wondered how long it would take as a new member of this forum to get a snarky “of course, and let me explain to you” response from someone. Not long it turns out ; )

HendersonD mentions at the outset that he’s looking for a unit to be the hub between a tuner/DVR, blueray player, Apple TV, and potential gaming system. I think that fits as multi-use/purpose.

 

[ziggurcat]

I couldn't find any reason to pay more for the C3050 other than if one really don't mind paying for the look/vu meters etc. There are obvious pros but there are some not insignificant cons:

- cheap looking binding posts
- unimpressive audio specs such as only 95 dB SNR A weighted, not bad though
- mediocre DAC, supposedly differential implementation but why go with a low spec IC?
- limited DL license, I highly doubt the bass control would work on this thing
- SINAD at 2 V pre out spec is likely be around the low 80's based on THD alone is -86 dB, again, not bad, but most likely worse than the Denon/Marantz 2 ch receivers

I think with the C3050, you would be paying for the other things (e.g. vu meters, the silly BlueOS that increase production costs, with no audio performance benefits). Like the much hyped silly proprietary MQA, I am not sure if the BlueOS/Bluesound will sustain their current popularity for too much longer. For someone who are used to use windows, Linus, MacOS, I never understand the need to have those new ways of doing things.

I don't think you are totally correct on this, according to the manual, you can set crossovers, between 40 and 150 Hz, default is 80 Hz, if you set subwoofer to "Yes". There is no LPF for LFE and I think it does not have the LFE channel capability to begin with. To me, the DRA-900H and Stereo 70 are mainly for 2 channel music, for movies with the LFE tracks, the Cinema 70 would be the one and I am sure you know that already.

Back to music listening, if you have a small laptop or notebook PC, I highly recommend you try out DLBC, 14 days should be enough for you to find out if you like the effects on sound quality. To me, when I toggle between the filter on and off, the difference truly fit the description people often used, i.e. "veil lifted". I have many dacs, a few preamps/prepro, power amps, none of those things make as much difference as using room correction/eq.

I understand you have issues with using a PC to play music, but can you not use a mini device or a mini desktop that you can easily hide? With the PC version, if your priority is two channel, with 1 or 2 subs, there really is no disadvantage in terms of audio performance and the PC has all sort of processing power that you are not going to limited by the likes of the C3050, minidsp, entry level AVRs/AVPs etc., and you won't have worry about having the upgrade itch a few years later, as a windows 11 PC will probably remain current for 10 years. As I mentioned before, with everything played on windows, I find it very convenient in using Dirac Live listening to music with JRiver, Foobar or similar software, and streaming on Qubuz, that I find way better than they much hyped Tidal, never liked paying for MQA but even when they gave it up, I found Qobuz and Amazon much better, as they seem to have more high resolution varieties and much better support, if ever needed.

By the way, I could have order the DRA-900H at that same C$763 price point last night from Vision, but I am not waiting for Denon to answer my questions so will wait for the next opportunity, hopefully the next good sale like this will be for the Marantz Stereo, or Cinema 70, even if for $100 more.

Since Amazon wasn't the only one that offered that low price, it likely is legit, may be some kind of D+M's flash sale. Last time I have seen such kind of bigger than normal discount was a few years ago on the Marantz SR7012, 7013, in Canada only. At those points, those were a couple hundred dollars lower than their equivalent Denon AVRs, I almost bought one just for spare lol... One time I caught such a short duration sale from Bay Bloor Radio (sort of a high end dealer) on my only NAD integrated amps, at price even much lower than that in the USA, same on my only pro amp, the QSC amp, at incredibly low price. So if we are not in a hurry, we should wait..., even the Cinema 70, price will eventually drop. As it is now, $1,299 is actually borderline on being ridiculous.

View attachment 343938

As far as the cons for the C3050 you cited:

- It's the same binding posts they use on a lot of their amps, and they don't really look "cheap" to me. As I will be using external amplification, the binding posts they use is moot.
- Here's some measurements for the C3050: https://www.stereophile.com/content/nad-c-3050-le-bluos-streaming-integrated-amplifier-measurements
- Unless I am missing something, one review I saw definitely showed some kind of bass control.

If the version of Dirac on the C3050 EQ's the sub and allows me to set the LPF, that's enough. And if it happens to limit the correction to 500Hz, I generally only correct up to that point anyway.
- The Stereophile measurements cited above would confirm whether that is true (I haven't really looked at them in great detail yet)

The model I would be after wouldn't even have BlueOS anyway, so that's irrelevant to me. I use a Raspberry Pi with Volumio for my music "streaming" (I have an external HDD with my music connected to the RPi, so it's still local playback), and a CD player/turntable for analog. I don't use Tidal or Qubuz or Spotify. I don't care about MQA, either.

No, sorry, I'm not putting a laptop computer in my HT system. That's simply not happening.

The other option I'm looking at is the Yamaha N-800A - it would more or less achieve the same thing as the C3050 as far as how it would be set up, but I have reservations about YPAO (I also have no experience with it).

The other advantage that the C3050 or N-800A presents is: should I require to update the HDMI/HDCP formats, a new HDMI switcher with the supported formats for $100 or less is all I would need to spend instead of another $2k on a new AVR. That means all I would ever really need to upgrade is the TV and the HDMI switcher moving forward.

You're right - my eyes clearly skipped over the LPF section in the Stereo 70s/900H manual!

I did see the link to Visions when I searched for the DRA-900H yesterday, but when I went to the site, the price said $999 (even though it said the $763 amount in the Google link). So, I'm not sure what's going on there.

I don't even need this to be right now, either. I am going to wait until I recover from my Buckeye amp purchase before I even open my wallet for a new receiver. But the C70, C3050 and N-800A is my shortlist as of right now.

 

[HendersonD]

No pre-outs rules it out for me too, but I don't see the problem in using a TV as the hub instead of cramming ports into compact receivers

It all depends on whether eARC works well consistently. It is a technology that has had issues

 

[Miker 1102]

I couldn't find any reason to pay more for the C3050 other than if one really don't mind paying for the look/vu meters etc. There are obvious pros but there are some not insignificant cons:

- cheap looking binding posts
- unimpressive audio specs such as only 95 dB SNR A weighted, not bad though
- mediocre DAC, supposedly differential implementation but why go with a low spec IC?
- limited DL license, I highly doubt the bass control would work on this thing
- SINAD at 2 V pre out spec is likely be around the low 80's based on THD alone is -86 dB, again, not bad, but most likely worse than the Denon/Marantz 2 ch receivers

I think with the C3050, you would be paying for the other things (e.g. vu meters, the silly BlueOS that increase production costs, with no audio performance benefits). Like the much hyped silly proprietary MQA, I am not sure if the BlueOS/Bluesound will sustain their current popularity for too much longer. For someone who are used to use windows, Linus, MacOS, I never understand the need to have those new ways of doing things.

I don't think you are totally correct on this, according to the manual, you can set crossovers, between 40 and 150 Hz, default is 80 Hz, if you set subwoofer to "Yes". There is no LPF for LFE and I think it does not have the LFE channel capability to begin with. To me, the DRA-900H and Stereo 70 are mainly for 2 channel music, for movies with the LFE tracks, the Cinema 70 would be the one and I am sure you know that already.

Back to music listening, if you have a small laptop or notebook PC, I highly recommend you try out DLBC, 14 days should be enough for you to find out if you like the effects on sound quality. To me, when I toggle between the filter on and off, the difference truly fit the description people often used, i.e. "veil lifted". I have many dacs, a few preamps/prepro, power amps, none of those things make as much difference as using room correction/eq.

I understand you have issues with using a PC to play music, but can you not use a mini device or a mini desktop that you can easily hide? With the PC version, if your priority is two channel, with 1 or 2 subs, there really is no disadvantage in terms of audio performance and the PC has all sort of processing power that you are not going to limited by the likes of the C3050, minidsp, entry level AVRs/AVPs etc., and you won't have worry about having the upgrade itch a few years later, as a windows 11 PC will probably remain current for 10 years. As I mentioned before, with everything played on windows, I find it very convenient in using Dirac Live listening to music with JRiver, Foobar or similar software, and streaming on Qubuz, that I find way better than they much hyped Tidal, never liked paying for MQA but even when they gave it up, I found Qobuz and Amazon much better, as they seem to have more high resolution varieties and much better support, if ever needed.

By the way, I could have order the DRA-900H at that same C$763 price point last night from Vision, but I am not waiting for Denon to answer my questions so will wait for the next opportunity, hopefully the next good sale like this will be for the Marantz Stereo, or Cinema 70, even if for $100 more.

Since Amazon wasn't the only one that offered that low price, it likely is legit, may be some kind of D+M's flash sale. Last time I have seen such kind of bigger than normal discount was a few years ago on the Marantz SR7012, 7013, in Canada only. At those points, those were a couple hundred dollars lower than their equivalent Denon AVRs, I almost bought one just for spare lol... One time I caught such a short duration sale from Bay Bloor Radio (sort of a high end dealer) on my only NAD integrated amps, at price even much lower than that in the USA, same on my only pro amp, the QSC amp, at incredibly low price. So if we are not in a hurry, we should wait..., even the Cinema 70, price will eventually drop. As it is now, $1,299 is actually borderline on being ridiculous.

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I absolutely agree with the PC. One of the most exciting days in the hobby for me was getting my first graphics card with an hdmi port. I bought a Nvidia shield in 2020 because it streamed atmos on Netflix and HBO or I still would be using my PC for everything. I still love having my music and films and using MPC BE and J River. I have always been grateful to the developers who worked on projects like these for everyone to use. Madvr was probably the last real free project for the HTPC community I can remember.

 

[peng]

Damn, I missed it!

Gibbys has the Cinema 70 "B stock in stock now, but it will likely be gone soon, based on past experience.

 

[ziggurcat]

Gibbys has the Cinema 70 "B stock in stock now, but it will likely be gone soon, based on past experience.

I did see that very late last night, but decided to sleep on it because I'm still debating whether I want to go with that or go with an alternate solution (i.e. was originally the NAD C3050, but I am liking the Yamaha R-N800A because it has more line inputs). I also had an AVR with split HDMI inputs before (1080p/4K split), and when I got around to upgrading my TV to 4K I had to get a new receiver anyway because the HDMI formats had advanced to where the AVR was obsolete.

Over time, I think the Yamaha option will cost less money to update the system to the newer video formats since all I would have to do - outside of a new TV - is basically get a new HDMI switcher for $100 or less instead of having to spend $2k on a new AVR. Since I'm only 2.1ch, I have everything set to PCM, so things like Dolby DD+ or DTS are less important, I think.