OP
- Thread Starter
- #221
-
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Inside Yamaha amps
Yamaha A-S3200 Integrated Amplifier Lab Report
Lab Report We reviewed the first of Yamaha's 'new retro' integrateds over six years ago and, in common with the shared aesthetics, it's also very tricky to determine any significant performance change between the aforementioned A-S3000 [HFN Nov '13] and the latest A-S3200 we have here. Both...
www.hifinews.com
Yamaha AS-3200, 120W into 8 ohms
| A-wtd S/N ratio (re. 0dBW/100W) | 96.4dB / 116.3dB |
| Distortion (20Hz-20kHz, 10W/8ohm) | 0.0045–0.011% |
Marantz PM-10, 625W into 8 ohms
| A-wtd S/N ratio (re. 0dBW/200W) | 91.0dB / 114.1dB |
| Distortion (20Hz-20kHz, 10W/8ohm) | 0.0012–0.032% |
Both are very good at what they do, and both will likely sound very similar within the power envelope. I chose Marantz for the extra power on tap at 4 and 8 ohms, but it’s noteworthy that the Yamaha has more power into 2 and 1 ohms.
I was able to get a good deal on my PM-10 though, so that was a good choice for me.
JaccoW
Senior Member
I don't think I posted my Yamaha A-S500 rescue here.
Still saving up for a pair of speakers that would fit this amp, I'm thinking the Wharfedale Linton's, because my current setup is a pair of powered speakers.
I got brand new knobs from Yamaha for a little money, making this a pretty sweet deal at €100 in total.
Still saving up for a pair of speakers that would fit this amp, I'm thinking the Wharfedale Linton's, because my current setup is a pair of powered speakers.
I got brand new knobs from Yamaha for a little money, making this a pretty sweet deal at €100 in total.
I picked up a spray painted Yamaha A-S500 today for €50.
Cheap enough to take a risk on and I suspected it was a silver model. The seller painted it black because it fitted their setup better but it did mean I had a €200-250 amp (second-hand prices) for €50 and some elbow grease.
And yes I will move the Blu-ray player from the top of the vents. I'm still on the lookout for a nice pair of speakers for this one. The Argon Audio's I have now are active speakers.
I enjoy my AS1100 daily, at nights. Except that, like 22/24h I keep it covered, as my area is really dusty.
Now, as tested, if I leave it ON, though nothing playing, it is getting really hot under the cover, like very hot but not extreme.
If I let it in standby (the tiny little light on), seems OK, no heat BUT problem is electricity interruptions are quite common in my area (yeap, not an urban area). Then, when electricity is restored, the amp turns ON, not remaining on standby.
Sooo... I guess my question is how harmful it is for this gear to be turned ON and OFF on a daily basis for years and if there is any difference - when ON, switching to standby, then turning off the power cord extension, then next day starting the power cord extension ?
Hope my scenario makes sense.
Now, as tested, if I leave it ON, though nothing playing, it is getting really hot under the cover, like very hot but not extreme.
If I let it in standby (the tiny little light on), seems OK, no heat BUT problem is electricity interruptions are quite common in my area (yeap, not an urban area). Then, when electricity is restored, the amp turns ON, not remaining on standby.
Sooo... I guess my question is how harmful it is for this gear to be turned ON and OFF on a daily basis for years and if there is any difference - when ON, switching to standby, then turning off the power cord extension, then next day starting the power cord extension ?
Hope my scenario makes sense.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #227
Feast your eyes on the older brother, the Yamaha A-S300.
I got it with some other stuff a few month ago. I wanted to sell it for 120€ and cleaned it up, but it looked fine, except for some dust.
Anyway, the pics:
That is all.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #228
And here is the Yamaha A-S1200. Finally!
Most people only ever see the front and back:
Only ASR members see more.
First you take off the side panels, they are made from birch it seems, and have a piano black high gloss paint job. Not easy to take a picture:
Then you get to take off the cover, there are screws and some sticky seal. There is a large metal bridge you have to remove as well:
The power amp board has some parts missing, these are populated on the A-S3200 which has even more output power. Sadly we can't see the transistors between board and heat sink:
These capacitors allow the power amp to draw more current than the power supply itself can deliver. The larger their capacity, the better, but they don't come cheap. You have to control inrush currents and charge them at startup, which takes a few seconds once turned on. A microcontroller controls them and you hear all sorts of relays clicking at boot time:
We are looking at the tone controls. Once you move a knob on the front from it's neutral position, relays click and put this stuff into the signal path. The volume is handled here as well, the volume knob at the front is just a dumb 1gang potentiometer, doing it that way ensures perfect channel balance and basically unlimited life:
The power supply for the 12v trigger and right from it the microcontroller that looks over all sorts of operational parameters, voltages, currents, temperatures:
We are looking at the back of the front plate, the violet remote control sensor, below the headphone connector and power switch assembly:
Volume and volume motor (left, the grey round thing), we see the input selector with the PCB on the it's back and one of the VU meters (black plastic case on the right). Conveniently, the VU meter can be zeroed by the potentiometer that has it's own hole in the top:
The front power switch board:
Sadly, the excellent phono preamp was hidden.
Most people only ever see the front and back:
Only ASR members see more.
First you take off the side panels, they are made from birch it seems, and have a piano black high gloss paint job. Not easy to take a picture:
Then you get to take off the cover, there are screws and some sticky seal. There is a large metal bridge you have to remove as well:
The power amp board has some parts missing, these are populated on the A-S3200 which has even more output power. Sadly we can't see the transistors between board and heat sink:
These capacitors allow the power amp to draw more current than the power supply itself can deliver. The larger their capacity, the better, but they don't come cheap. You have to control inrush currents and charge them at startup, which takes a few seconds once turned on. A microcontroller controls them and you hear all sorts of relays clicking at boot time:
We are looking at the tone controls. Once you move a knob on the front from it's neutral position, relays click and put this stuff into the signal path. The volume is handled here as well, the volume knob at the front is just a dumb 1gang potentiometer, doing it that way ensures perfect channel balance and basically unlimited life:
The power supply for the 12v trigger and right from it the microcontroller that looks over all sorts of operational parameters, voltages, currents, temperatures:
We are looking at the back of the front plate, the violet remote control sensor, below the headphone connector and power switch assembly:
Volume and volume motor (left, the grey round thing), we see the input selector with the PCB on the it's back and one of the VU meters (black plastic case on the right). Conveniently, the VU meter can be zeroed by the potentiometer that has it's own hole in the top:
The front power switch board:
Sadly, the excellent phono preamp was hidden.
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OP
- Thread Starter
- #229
I have a Yamaha A-550, DSP E-1000 or a R-N803D here. Which one do i clean next?
D
Deleted member 48726
Guest
The DSP, thank you very much..
Oh, why does it look like these solders are sub par quality compared to all the rest?
OP
- Thread Starter
- #232
Well spotted
.Looks like they didn't use enough flux on the VU meters.
DSP E-1000 it is then. It's raining right now, so i can't go out to the balcony.
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OP
- Thread Starter
- #233
D
Deleted member 48726
Guest
Oh you dirty bugger! Put on some music and vacuum. We have this Dyson cordless with see-through bin and it makes you see progress in the work.
Also we have air filtration on all year round and they pick up A LOT in their filters.
D
Deleted member 48726
Guest
Always on the look for bad joints, cracks, brown stains, fat caps etc. <--Sounds like drugsWell spotted
Looks like they didn't use enough flux on the VU meters.
DSP E-1000 it is then. It's raining right now, so i can't go out to the balcony.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #237
I have since cleaned it off.
They installed a new escalator in my house, one day i came home to have a thick layer of gypsum dust everywhere. No one to blame but me, i should have closed all the windows.
JaccoW
Senior Member
Got my hands on a black Yamaha set yesterday for €250.
R-S300 receiver, NS-333 speakers (with stands) and the CD-S300 player. I do believe the R-S300 receiver has already been photographed here but I could compare it to the A-S500 that I have standing here as well?
R-S300 receiver, NS-333 speakers (with stands) and the CD-S300 player. I do believe the R-S300 receiver has already been photographed here but I could compare it to the A-S500 that I have standing here as well?
D
Deleted member 48726
Guest
This photo is so stylish!
OP
- Thread Starter
- #240
Sweet setup!Got my hands on a black Yamaha set yesterday for €250.
R-S300 receiver, NS-333 speakers (with stands) and the CD-S300 player. I do believe the R-S300 receiver has already been photographed here but I could compare it to the A-S500 that I have standing here as well?
I would love to give the speakers a test.
I don't think we have inside pics of the R-S300 yet. I'm interested!
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