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TheBatsEar

TheBatsEar

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From where have you got the A-S1200 for 750 Euro, nice, the lowest price I found the A-S1100 was 1000 Euro.
The platform is Ebay Kleinanzeigen, in Germany, not to be confused with Ebay Auctions. It's more local and for private people.

1681925679766.png


I was just executing my regular search for silver, local, Yamaha stuff and there it was. Regular used prices are above 1400€ i think.

Did you find the yamaha sound inside there ?
Only when i lube my ears properly:
pilsner_ur_24x033l_kl_4c.jpg
 
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Yamaha 5000

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The platform is Ebay Kleinanzeigen, in Germany, not to be confused with Ebay Auctions. It's more local and for private people.

View attachment 280263

I was just executing my regular search for silver, local, Yamaha stuff and there it was. Regular used prices are above 1400€ i think.


Only when i lube my ears properly:
pilsner_ur_24x033l_kl_4c.jpg
You have got to do better than Urquell!!! How about some top shelf German Beer "Erlanger Pilsner"!! :)o_O
 

Yamaha 5000

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I have a special affection for the CA-1000, in 1975 I worked for a Audio Store that sold Yamaha and so clearly remember that day when we received the new line of Yamaha CA's, CR's and CT's. To unbox the CR-1000 and put it on display was simply love at first site. I guess kind of like the first real true Girlfriend, I lifetime impression. :facepalm:
That would have been CA-400, CA-600, CA-800, CA-1000, CR-400, CR-600, CR-800, CR-1000, CT-400, CT-600, CT-800, CT-7000, C1, B1. That was like attending a Fashion Show in Paris! The girls were beyond level 10! :):facepalm:
 
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TheBatsEar

TheBatsEar

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You have got to do better than Urquell!!! How about some top shelf German Beer "Erlanger Pilsner"!! :)o_O
Not familiar with it, i'll check my beer shop, thanks for the tip.:D
 

Yamaha 5000

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Probably a better a place to post this question but I will give it a try: I am looking for the tool made to tighten these RCA Female Connectors against the panel. I have seen it before but can't seem to locate now.
$_57.JPG
 
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TheBatsEar

TheBatsEar

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I am looking for the tool made to tighten these RCA Female Connectors against the panel. I have seen it before but can't seem to locate now.
I use regular pliers with a tissue around it, but to be sure, and if the connectors are very pricey, i would print something like this:
There would be zero chance to leave marks or destroy anything, and it gives a perfect excuse to own that old 3D printer.
 

NewbieAudiophileExpert

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Just received my A-S501 which is just a A-S301 on steroids - works well with my Topping D10S and the internal DAC and 5v power supply.

Anything that I should be brought to speed on regarding the functionality and modifications that produce the best sound and performance?
 
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TheBatsEar

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Just received my A-S501 which is just a A-S301 on steroids - works well with my Topping D10S and the internal DAC and 5v power supply.
The 701 is just a 501 on steroids as well.:D

Anything that I should be brought to speed on regarding the functionality and modifications that produce the best sound and performance?
I don't think there is much meaningful modification that is worthwhile doing, these Japanese amps are highly optimized and largely unchanged for 30 years now.

Only thing that comes to mind, you could add pre-out/main-in connectors on the back to loop in EQ or DSP.
It's an easy mod, if you know the hot end of a soldering iron and can read schematics. But using a D10S suggests you use USB, and then you probably use and RPi as a source and can use CamillaDSP or you use Windows, in which case you can use APO.

That's all that comes to mind. Enjoy your 501 :cool:
 

NewbieAudiophileExpert

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The 701 is just a 501 on steroids as well.:D


I don't think there is much meaningful modification that is worthwhile doing, these Japanese amps are highly optimized and largely unchanged for 30 years now.

Only thing that comes to mind, you could add pre-out/main-in connectors on the back to loop in EQ or DSP.
It's an easy mod, if you know the hot end of a soldering iron and can read schematics. But using a D10S suggests you use USB, and then you probably use and RPi as a source and can use CamillaDSP or you use Windows, in which case you can use APO.

That's all that comes to mind. Enjoy your 501 :cool:
Hmm, not sure that I'd venture that far....

I found that the best sound comes from my macbook pro running apple music into the D10S ... I have REW, UMIK-1, and all so I'll try out room correction and EQing via soundsource..

Yeah I was using an old CA Azur 550A which sounds great - but this Yamaha is next level, it really is. It might be the cheapest yamaha out there, but in terms of SQ it's fantastic..

People say that you can't tell the difference from amp to amp, but I think that I can.
 
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TheBatsEar

TheBatsEar

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The NS-1 Classic are something else, timeless design and a great match for silver Yamaha gear. :D
 
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TheBatsEar

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A Yamaha CA-VI.

Sold 1976 to 1979, weight 7.5kg, price 33'000 Yen (Japan, 1976), 500 DM (Germany, 1976):

Yamaha_CA-V_1-Daten.jpg


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Yamaha MX-70
Also known as MX-800U and internally the same as the MX-830 which is newer and lacks the nice red meters.

A big boy from the late eighties.

Full functioning no faults. Even the idle current was almost at point. Key points to notice is the tremendous dynamic power to low impedance!

  • RMS 8/6/4 ohm = 170 / 195 / 230 W
  • Dynamic power 8/6/4/2/1 ohm = 270 / 330 / 440 / 570 / 600 W

One thing I noticed was that one of the main filter caps is 27.000 uF and the other three are 25.000 uF. You can maybe see that one of them is a bit lower in height. That is the 27.000 uF one. I haven't looked at the diagram yet. It does look like aftermarket solder on the PCB so maybe there have been some work on it at some point.
EDIT: There should be 2 x 27.000 and 2 x 25.000 uF caps and indeed there are. Due to a repair job the one 27.000 cap has been placed lower than the others and thus looks smaller. Happy that it is in its original form.

Specs.JPG
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restorer-john

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Could be an official Yamaha service centre repair.

Work looks decent, so it's not likely some TV tech clown in a backwater service department.

I've got a few Yamaha MX-xxx power amps here if you want some numbers. Dynamic power is a big strong point of their designs from the early 80s onwards. Soft, high voltage supplies and lots of capacitance.

P.S. love Sanken OPTs. :)
 
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Could be an official Yamaha service centre repair.

Work looks decent, so it's not likely some TV tech clown in a backwater service department.

I've got a few Yamaha MX-xxx power amps here if you want some numbers. Dynamic power is a big strong point of their designs from the early 80s onwards. Soft, high voltage supplies and lots of capacitance.

P.S. love Sanken OPTs. :)
Yeah it looks quite alright. Besides this party pooper -->

1685966549415.png



Should be 2 x 25.000 uF and 2 x 27.000 uF acc. to BOM-->
1685966811858.png

1685966861216.png


Actually it looks like the one that's lower than they other could be just placed lower than the other due to the repair job. It does look like the legs are sticking further down through the PCB than the others and I couldn't get a good look at the adjacent cap to check if it is 27.000 uF as well. Will check again..

EDIT: Yeah, the one that looks out of place is adjacent to another 27.000 uF cap but has just been placed lower when the repair was carried out.
 
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AdrianusG

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Hi All,

I have an Yamaha C2x Preamp (second hand , but as new!) and i had an M40 power amp, the latter i bought about 3 years ago for around 160 Euro and worked flawlessly, until i accidentally blew it up 2 weeks ago:(

Upon immediate inspection (at the moment of the incident) one of the cables on one of the speaker binding post was dis-connected, could it simply be a fuse that needs replacing inside the power amp, or is there more to it? (i'm not technical knowledgeable)
So now for the time being i'm using my old and still not sold Quad 306 as power amp.

greetings

Ad
 

GXAlan

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Dynamic power is a big strong point of their designs from the early 80s onwards.

+1. I use the MX-A5000 in my home theater. While protection circuit and current limiting means that it will only do 78 watts x 7 (0.1% THD) into 8 ohms, it will do 197 watts dynamic power into 7 channels (1% THD) at 8 ohms or 396 watts into 2 into 4 ohms.
 

Yamaha 5000

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+1. I use the MX-A5000 in my home theater. While protection circuit and current limiting means that it will only do 78 watts x 7 (0.1% THD) into 8 ohms, it will do 197 watts dynamic power into 7 channels (1% THD) at 8 ohms or 396 watts into 2 into 4 ohms.
It really was a big surprise that Yamaha discontinued that complete line of MX-A and CX-A line. I asked the Director of Audio for Yamaha North America what lead to the decision and he didn't reply.
 

GXAlan

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It really was a big surprise that Yamaha discontinued that complete line of MX-A and CX-A line. I asked the Director of Audio for Yamaha North America what lead to the decision and he didn't reply.
Sales?

The fact that they brought out the -5000 two channel line and the fact that they have renewed focus on Hifi means they are still interested in the high end. It could be like Sony, where they come out of nowhere with an update. That said, Sony never officially discontinued the ZA line until the AZ line came in, while the Yamaha separates line is discontinued. I have read that the chassis for the MX-A5000 is used by the current 2 ch setups.

They could make a superb flagship processor. I love my CX-A5100 though I am trying a 16 channel processor this week.

Yamaha has the expertise to do 108 channel audio, so I could see a 16 or 32 channel Yamaha processor working superbly!

 
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