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Allo Volt+ D Amplifier Review

Poultrygeist

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I have several other TPA amps including 3118, 3116, and 3110 and they all were improved with a linear regulated power supply. I haven't found that to be the case with the Volt+D unlike the Volt+. As to useable power I've found no difference between 19v and 24v. I currently use a 13.8v switch mode from Radio Shack with the +D that performs as well as more expensive power supplies. It also has an on/off switch which is much appreciated with any of the Volt amps. My Volt+D came with a second capacitance multiplier which may account for my observations. Why allo.com sent me the second CM I'm not sure but it seems to do the job. Perhaps for the nice review I gave the original Volt+ on AK?
 

MacCali

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I have several other TPA amps including 3118, 3116, and 3110 and they all were improved with a linear regulated power supply. I haven't found that to be the case with the Volt+D unlike the Volt+. As to useable power I've found no difference between 19v and 24v. I currently use a 13.8v switch mode from Radio Shack with the +D that performs as well as more expensive power supplies. It also has an on/off switch which is much appreciated with any of the Volt amps. My Volt+D came with a second capacitance multiplier which may account for my observations. Why allo.com sent me the second CM I'm not sure but it seems to do the job. Perhaps for the nice review I gave the original Volt+ on AK?
Hmmm, I am even more confused. That delta isn't linear right? it's a switching power supply.

Well maybe to clear that confusion, why does allo suggest using that 3a power supply, and it has the graphs on performance. not sure if that's music or psu graph.

Next, they suggest on their website that you need to use at least 23v to get the full power out of the amp, so isn't the 13.8v lowering the power output the speakers?

I am really not trying to get a linear power supply, I am not really looking for that much of an improvement, and as you mentioned probably having dual boards on one chip or however you want to put it maybe a factor.

Just feel like the power supply i have is a piece of trash, and it's chinese i bet, it has really no compliance with UL, but has some others and not sure how satisfactory or safe those are. I disconnect it after every use cause I have no idea what's going to or could happen. Which is why I felt a decent power supply should be better.

Again I assume it's not worth it, but wanted to understand what the amps and watts really mean for power output on the amplifier.
Is it better to have more amps? I contacted Allo and they said not to do more than 5 amps on that unit for a psu
Is it better to have more watts?

Really kind of creating more confusion, cause allo says that 23v is enough power to put out the 120 watts max that the unit will put out.
But I see that 24v 4.17a 100W output is further enhancing this confusion
 

Poultrygeist

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allo sells the cheap 19v power brick for the Volt+D which I used and enjoyed for several years. The capacitance multiplier built into the +D allow lesser power bricks to perform as well as higher priced power supplies.

It's just recently that they started mentioning the higher voltage power supplies.

I have this 24v switch mode power supply that sounds great with a TPA3116 so I plan to build an enclosure to place it underneath the +D and give it a try.

61nN-ybO19L._AC_SX450_.jpg
 

Poultrygeist

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Once you get above 13.8v linear regulated power supplies get very pricey. The most cost effective supplies would be the SMPS like the Meanwell which are superior to power bricks and comparably priced.

The best values for 13.8v linear regulated power supplies are the Pyramids. The cheapest is around $30
 
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Milesian

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Power supply question for this unit, I want to buy a better power supply, I have a 24v 2.73a power supply that I already owned and it works.

However, someone with my level of expertise doesn't really understand. Allo suggests 3a and I doubt a 1/4 of an amp would do much, but I was thinking about purchasing a delta psu, it's 24v 4.17a but it says 100 watts output, kind of confusing. Allo also says that 23v is needed to get the potential of the amp and I realize that class D amps are efficient. Maybe why I am confused..

Is the 24v 4.17a 100w unit more than enough for the allo? it's only 30 bucks and I haven't paid for a power supply so I dont feel like this is going over the top. already own the power cable to the psu, to power it and I can a barrel plug adapter with 5a capability for a couple of bucks, not sure how much watts will go through that barrel plug and not sure if that even matters.

Appreciate your thoughts and feedback

Not an expert but to explain the Watts output, it’s the result of multiplying current by amps. Hence 24 X4.17, is close enough to to 100 Watts. I recently asked a similar question about optimal 24Volt current over at AudiophileStyle and received the comment 5amps is optimal. I would suspect your 4.17amps is fine.
 

Milesian

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Not an expert but to explain the Watts output, it’s the result of multiplying voltage by amps. Hence 24 X4.17, is close enough to to 100 Watts. I recently asked a similar question about optimal 24Volt current over at AudiophileStyle and received the comment 5amps is optimal. I would suspect your 4.17amps is fine.
 

MacCali

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Once you get above 13.8v linear regulated power supplies get very pricey. The most cost effective supplies would be the SMPS like the Meanwell which are superior to power bricks and comparably priced.

The best values for 13.8v linear regulated power supplies are the Pyramids. The cheapest is around $30
yea, but you dont think the delta psu, american made from my understanding, is a superior product? I mean it's 31 and some change.

I mean will that really under perform vs the meanwell.
 

Poultrygeist

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yea, but you dont think the delta psu, american made from my understanding, is a superior product? I mean it's 31 and some change.

I mean will that really under perform vs the meanwell.

I don't know anything about the Delta ( SMPS? ) but it may be fine. But if it sounds good then it is good.
 

MCH

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Hello all, newbie question from a chemist with no knowledge of electronics....

I finally got my Volt+D and like most people here I dislike the case as much as I like the performance. I don't only find it really ugly but of very poor quality. It seems it is going to break apart in any moment, specially when turning the volume knob.... well, we all know that.
The intention is to put the thing into an aluminum case, but none of the poles in the Volt are isolated.... I have found a solution for the speaker poles (some plastic rings that fit perfectly) but I am struggling to find something similar for the input RCAs.... until I thought.... Does it really matter that the RCA outter part makes contact with the chasis and the other RCA? That's just the ground, isn't it ?
Well, before I set the thing on fire or end up hearing a loud noise every time I touch the case, wanted to ask you guys for advice.
Thank you for your answers and understanding of my ignorance beforehand
 

Poultrygeist

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I rather like the space age case of the +D. Rather than placing it in an expensive conductive case which would be a PITA I'd spray paint the underside gloss black or cover with vinyl wrap or black contact paper.
 

MCH

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Well to me it is more like 80s-druglord-mansion-kitsch, you know, kind of box one imagines Scarface uses to keep and prepare his vitamin supplements haha
 

Marcos Mazur

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Very bright sound??? My Allo Volt +D recently arrived, I tested it and I was surprised with the quality, well detailed and transparent, not harsh, I'm very satisfied, BUT I noticed that the sound is a bit ''cold'' and tiring for hours, looks like a lack of ''warmth'',a bit bright more than that I expected, I've read that in all reviews that the sound is neutral, what can be the weakness of my setup? I don't believe it is a defect in something,

My Setup:

Speakers: Pioneer SB22-LR (neutral to warm sound signature) Connected to the amp by thick, shielded, decent quality cables.
DAC: Toppingo E30 (neutral to warm sound signature)
Powered with a phone charger and connected to the PC with an Audioquest Forest USB cable)
Connected to the amp with shielded and good quality RCA cable, everything updated, including the driver.
AMP: Allo Volt+D - powered with ''Allo'' 19v brick power supply)
 

Poultrygeist

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Very bright sound??? My Allo Volt +D recently arrived, I tested it and I was surprised with the quality, well detailed and transparent, not harsh, I'm very satisfied, BUT I noticed that the sound is a bit ''cold'' and tiring for hours, looks like a lack of ''warmth'',a bit bright more than that I expected, I've read that in all reviews that the sound is neutral, what can be the weakness of my setup? I don't believe it is a defect in something,

My Setup:

Speakers: Pioneer SB22-LR (neutral to warm sound signature) Connected to the amp by thick, shielded, decent quality cables.
DAC: Toppingo E30 (neutral to warm sound signature)
Powered with a phone charger and connected to the PC with an Audioquest Forest USB cable)
Connected to the amp with shielded and good quality RCA cable, everything updated, including the driver.
AMP: Allo Volt+D - powered with ''Allo'' 19v brick power supply)

The Pioneers are entry level and the weak link in your system. The Volt+D and E30 deserve better.
 

Marcos Mazur

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The Pioneers are entry level and the weak link in your system. The Volt+D and E30 deserve better.


Thanks for the answer. Which reasonably priced speaker would you use for a nicer sound??
A problem of BS22-LR that some point out is the lack of depth, with my old SMSL SA100 amp (bad amp) it didn't sound as thin or ''cold'', it sounded warmer but at the same time poor and harsh all the time, I couldn't enjoy it for a long time unless I did a very limited EQ in the deep lows and highs, but ok, still bad, now with Allo Volt+D everything has improved, except for what I mentioned earlier, you would you say that room acoustics can also be a problem? I put acoustic foams in the middle of the room and at the primary reflection point, but it made little difference.
 

Poultrygeist

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The Triangle Borea BR03 has great reviews and is just under $500. It's higher sensivity of 90dbs is a much better match for the Volt+D.
 

MacCali

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Very bright sound??? My Allo Volt +D recently arrived, I tested it and I was surprised with the quality, well detailed and transparent, not harsh, I'm very satisfied, BUT I noticed that the sound is a bit ''cold'' and tiring for hours, looks like a lack of ''warmth'',a bit bright more than that I expected, I've read that in all reviews that the sound is neutral, what can be the weakness of my setup? I don't believe it is a defect in something,

My Setup:

Speakers: Pioneer SB22-LR (neutral to warm sound signature) Connected to the amp by thick, shielded, decent quality cables.
DAC: Toppingo E30 (neutral to warm sound signature)
Powered with a phone charger and connected to the PC with an Audioquest Forest USB cable)
Connected to the amp with shielded and good quality RCA cable, everything updated, including the driver.
AMP: Allo Volt+D - powered with ''Allo'' 19v brick power supply)

I am using an airport express for airplay in living room, I’m sure it’s a weak link, however it plays lossless over airplay and sounds better than my Neo iDSD which is being used via Bluetooth via aac. Don’t have anything shooting out LDAC. It sounds really good with my brighter speakers the Jamo S809.

I think the speakers themselves lack bass or it just maybe the Allo and mids vocals sound to be dry or recessed as you guys may call it. Not full or as rich as my A/B amps

Yet it sounds really good, really curious to see what the SA-9 can do but currently need to buy a monster amp for my new speakers. So not trying to bounce my budget around. Plus living room isn’t my main listening room.
 

MacCali

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The Triangle Borea BR03 has great reviews and is just under $500. It's higher sensivity of 90dbs is a much better match for the Volt+D.
Yea my Jamo S809’s are 8 ohm not sure how sensitive they are but they get plenty loud, I usually listen at 2/5th volume on my iPhone, using air play.
 
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