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Pioneer VSX-LX505 AVR Review

Rate this AVR:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 165 64.2%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 44 17.1%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 40 15.6%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 8 3.1%

  • Total voters
    257
Bi-Amping should still have some effect, even if you don't have an active crossover beforehand, since the signal is separated inside the speaker.
No differently from the way it is without bi-amping. The speaker is still seeing identical signals at the terminals - it can't tell the difference.
 
The effect of bi-amping would be pure psychological. To meditate it, I would add, that in case of Pioneer/Onkyo AVR, LCR amps are probably a bit better designed than the rest. Like some transistors more. If you bi-amp, then you move weaker amp to front.
Sure all amps sound the same, but psychological effects aren't the same ;)
 
No differently from the way it is without bi-amping. The speaker is still seeing identical signals at the terminals - it can't tell the difference.
that doesn't matter, though. You only need an active crossover if you effectively remove the internal crossover of the speaker.
If you remove the bridge on the terminals, you separate the woofers from the mid/tweeter path, but the crossover is still present. (e.g. 12dB/octave for B&W crossovers with a lowpass on the lower terminal and a highpass on the upper terminal)
by adding an active crossover before the terminal, you effectively change the crossover of the speaker, because you make it steeper. (that's why it "sounds different" if you add that effect...)

If you just add a second amp, you effectively double the power available to drive the speakers. That can provide the necessary headroom (3dB, lol) to not get into clipping (of the amp).. And some people will argue that separating the woofer from the mid/tweeter can "relax" the sound.. I can only imagine that would be because the amp struggles with super low impedance in the bass frequencies.. So having a separate amp driving the mid/tweeter would be "smart", because that amp would be loaded much less..

Either way, you feeding the woofer the "entire signal" does not mean that the amplifier has to perform more "work", because the internal crossover of the speaker does not create any extra load above the crossover frequency..
Or did I get this wrong?
 
If you remove the bridge on the terminals, you separate the woofers from the mid/tweeter path, but the crossover is still present.
Except that they are still joined together at the amp end of the speaker wire, at least on the ground terminal for a non btl amp.


If you just add a second amp, you effectively double the power available to drive the speakers.
Not really since by far the majority of the power spectrum is in the bass and midrange. The tweeter needs relatively little power (which is why you can use a 10W tweeter in a much higher power handling speaker.

So you are definitely getting nothing like 3dB - probably not even 0.3dB. And if you are not getting close to clipping the low frequencies, then the high frequencies will not be distorted either.

See also - note - the magic in the headline comes from active crossovers, not passive.:
 
I used this receiver as a pre/pro it did work really well that way, with parasound a23, 2 aiyima a200 and just the central channel powers up by the receiver itself.


edit: and yes, if you use the amp from the receiver for listening music, it does sound like many says "muddy"
 
Thanks for all the replies =)
So most of the posts confirm that it should make no difference if I use the Biamp plugs on the back of the AVR, right? If that is the case, I wonder why this option is offered =)
Anyhow after summer holidays I might buy an external amp and plug it to the preouts to get more power on my front speakers =)
 
Thanks for all the replies =)
So most of the posts confirm that it should make no difference if I use the Biamp plugs on the back of the AVR, right? If that is the case, I wonder why this option is offered =)
Anyhow after summer holidays I might buy an external amp and plug it to the preouts to get more power on my front speakers =)
I ran my old towers bi-amped on the Integra DRX-8.4 for a bit. Thought I heard a difference at first, but after a few days of listening, I was no longer so sure. So I disconnected the bi-amped terminals and found there was no difference whatsoever.

Long story short: Passive bi-amping is audiophile voodoo that's quite popular in those circles, and so Pioneer/Onkyo/Integra are just capitalizing on that mysticism to sell product.
 
When I click through to Adorama the price is the regular $1399.

Different for you?
IMG_8357.pngThis is what I see at that link.
 
I got it from Adorama at the same price ($649) in January. No major complaints so far. It’s nice to have a 7.1.2 system, feels a lot more enveloping than stereo
 
I got it from Adorama at the same price ($649) in January. No major complaints so far. It’s nice to have a 7.1.2 system, feels a lot more enveloping than stereo
Where are your two height/top speakers located? My Yamaha sums all the height channels, so it doesn't leave options for placement, only directly above. I am curious if all receives do this? I found this out by using test tones.
 
For receivers that draw from the same power supply. Not true for separate power amps.
True under all circumstances. If you are not removing the crossover from the speakers, bi-amping makes zero audible differnece
 
True under all circumstances. If you are not removing the crossover from the speakers, bi-amping makes zero audible differnece
Check out some Infinity Kappa threads at Audiokarma. They seem to disagree. The Kappa 8.0 for example are tough to drive. Using two amps takes stress off each amp.
 
Check out some Infinity Kappa threads at Audiokarma. They seem to disagree. The Kappa 8.0 for example are tough to drive. Using two amps takes stress off each amp.
Not really - since nearly all the power is required in the amp driving the bass units.

If you are in a situation where the 10% of power siphoned off into the high frequency driving amp is the problem - you just need a higher power amp. Instead of two lower power amps.
 
Not really - since nearly all the power is required in the amp driving the bass units.

If you are in a situation where the 10% of power siphoned off into the high frequency driving amp is the problem - you just need a higher power amp. Instead of two lower power amps.
We can agree to disagree.
 
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