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JBL M2 Reference Master Monitor Review

How do you cut them drivers? Two way or three way?
It's a two-way.
The prototype boxes are modular, I can mix and match. I've tried several midrange configurations. The D2 plus M2 lens plays so low and the 2216Nd plays so high, I haven't found a better match for directivity and response. Not sure really what I intend to improve. If I want more output a 2.5-way configuration sounds great.
 
Thanks. Very kind of you. You could cut at 500 hertz (?) How the mid highs driver handles frequencies? Has It an internal x over?
 
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It's a two-way.
The prototype boxes are modular, I can mix and match. I've tried several midrange configurations. The D2 plus M2 lens plays so low and the 2216Nd plays so high, I haven't found a better match for directivity and response. Not sure really what I intend to improve. If I want more output a 2.5-way configuration sounds great.
I just caught up with this build here and the other thread.
What an incredible build! The idea that the M2 can be cloned at such a
low cost is staggering. Of course you do have to possess the woodworking skills
and tooling.
I tip my hat to your artistry on this DIY project.
Enjoy them!!!
 
Thanks. Very kind of you. You could cut at 500 hertz (?) How the mid highs driver handles frequencies? Has It an internal x over?
The crossover is all DSP (external, using a MiniDSP Flex), except the D2 uses passive filter with complimentary DSP filter, plus the driver's roll-off. You could do this with a nice DSP plate amp, or many other options.
1702847455012.png

I have used the JBL DSP filters exactly using 780Hz cut, and also my own profiles, with great results. I've also used several different values of cap for the passive filter.
Here is one example of a different DSP solution that I cooked up, line on line on top of Erin's nearfield measurement:
index.php

It measures great far-field as well. I have other PEQ versions that match JBL's profile in the crossover region too.

This driver and lens in a 2-way the above 8uF ~780Hz passive filter makes sense - it compliments the driver's natural low-frequency behavior. There are a jumble of measurements and ideas in the D2 thread. I have done lots since, but it has the starting point and some references to other work, mostly by POS at ASR and the Project M2 DIY Thread. I'll try to update it since I have tried a bunch of different DSP and passive configurations.
 
I just caught up with this build here and the other thread.
What an incredible build! The idea that the M2 can be cloned at such a
low cost is staggering. Of course you do have to possess the woodworking skills
and tooling.
I tip my hat to your artistry on this DIY project.
Enjoy them!!!
Thanks a bunch.
I will say, you could hack these cabinets:
index.php

One of the tweeter lenses is mounted in an old subwoofer cabinet from a truck I sold, the other is in a simple frame made from 2x8" scrap. I am happy with how the woofer cabinets turned out, I intended them to be prototypes but they worked out great. I think people could come close with a circular saw and router if I they had to. And a better frame for the lenses can be made even with pretty simple tools.

I am building the final cabinets this winter. Will post some more.
 
This question just popped into my head, so I figured I'd ask it here:

The M2/4367 is generally considered to be the best JBL loudspeaker, right?

If that's the case, how is something like the Everest DD67000 justified?
 
This question just popped into my head, so I figured I'd ask it here:

The M2/4367 is generally considered to be the best JBL loudspeaker, right?

If that's the case, how is something like the Everest DD67000 justified?


Hard to know. This is the only comparison I have found. The DD67000 should hit higher SPLs for people who have really really big rooms. You are also paying for the cabinetry work.

https://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?39821-JBL-K2-S9900-vs-JBL-4367

The K2 is also in that class where it’s more expensive but may not be meaningfully better, even though its preferred by some.
 

Hard to know. This is the only comparison I have found. The DD67000 should hit higher SPLs for people who have really really big rooms. You are also paying for the cabinetry work.

https://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?39821-JBL-K2-S9900-vs-JBL-4367

The K2 is also in that class where it’s more expensive but may not be meaningfully better, even though its preferred by some.
Appreciate the response
 
Appreciate the response

There is also this counterpoint which helps put some comparisons into perspective.

The XPL 90 was measured here which offers a bit of a guess of how XPL200 might measure too. I really enjoyed the sound of the XPL90 over the L52 Classic and Studio 620 and Studio 530. The JBL 708P was much more focused in imaging whereas the slightly more diffuse XPL90 made classical music feel more authentic and less “mic’d”.

The Meyer Sound Amie with a Sony UBPX800 and Yamaha CX-A5100 replaced my XPL90/Marantz PM-10/SA-10 setup.
 
This question just popped into my head, so I figured I'd ask it here:

The M2/4367 is generally considered to be the best JBL loudspeaker, right?

If that's the case, how is something like the Everest DD67000 justified?

Have you listened to K2/Everest? There is something about the sound of their 4" compression drivers the M2 just cannot do. I would swap my M2s with K2 S9900 anyday. But from a value perspective I would probably not be willing to pay for the price difference.
 
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I am building the final cabinets this winter. Will post some more.
If I had the room for speakers that size I'd make you an offer on the originals when the finals are finished. :p
It was the trickle-down of the HDI horn technology that inspired me to purchase my HDI-3600's immediately
after they were introduced. I love them. ;)
 
@srm51555
What‘s wrong with the Truextent Dias?
My next Speaker Project will include my M2 Waveguides with my second pair of 2450SL drivers, (Stock Aquaplas coated Titan) but the Beryllium Dias from Truextent are a long time on my List.
View attachment 150469
View attachment 150468Currently the plan is a large three way with 14“ Midrange (1400Pro) and 18“ Low (2268H). The drivers are all waiting to be used, but unfortunately i‘m out of space for another pair of speakers.
how is the aluminum plate attached to the horn? I have this problem when the plate is screwed on. There is a gap when mounting the driver.
 

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how is the aluminum plate attached to the horn? I have this problem when the plate is screwed on. There is a gap when mounting the driver.
You are trying to attach a 476Be to the lens?

Here are a couple threads with pictures of ho the D2 is mounted:

I the gap you mention due to the diameter of the 476Be interfering with the screw heads?

I can take some more pics and offer advice if it helps.
 
yes. my pic of the 476 shows the 476 is flat. I can either mount the 476 to the plate or the plate to the M2 horn. But not both at the same time.
Maybe end up with a countersunk screws. Should be strong enough since there are eight screws.
 
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yes. my pic of the 476 shows the 476 is flat. I can either mount the 476 to the plate or the plate to the M2 horn. But not both at the same time.
Maybe end up with a countersunk screws. Should be strong enough since there are eight screws.

Yes, 476 is larger diameter than the D2430K.

The adapter plate is 6mm thick. That is enough clearance for countersinking.
The the compression driver can then be fitted with studs of the correct length, then fastened from the back side with nuts.

Here is a picture of the plate thickness and clearance for fastening nuts onto the studs:
1725939365349.png
 
Good plan. Time to visit McMaster Carr and go down the rabbit hole for countersunk head screws. maybe match the drill bit cutting angle too.
 
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