New S.M.S.L. M300 SE 120$

[poppie8]

Hello all, lurking here for awhile and new member. Thought I'd add I've just returned this unit due the noise issue. I really liked everything about this unit-price, features (balanced output, volume knob, balanced headphone output, size, etc.) but couldn't overlook the ticks and pops. The worst occurred when sending toslink optical via the TV to the SMSL M300se. If the tv was paused, a pop would be heard upon pausing the stream, and a constant pop-tick stream would ensue afterwords without any audio playing. If i ran it downstream from the Wiim Pro Plus-no noise. If i use just the Wiim Pro Plus only-no background noises. I really hated to return this as it sounded and worked great-EXCEPT for the noises issue.

 

[renaudrenaud]

Hello all, lurking here for awhile and new member. Thought I'd add I've just returned this unit due the noise issue. I really liked everything about this unit-price, features (balanced output, volume knob, balanced headphone output, size, etc.) but couldn't overlook the ticks and pops. The worst occurred when sending toslink optical via the TV to the SMSL M300se. If the tv was paused, a pop would be heard upon pausing the stream, and a constant pop-tick stream would ensue afterwords without any audio playing. If i ran it downstream from the Wiim Pro Plus-no noise. If i use just the Wiim Pro Plus only-no background noises. I really hated to return this as it sounded and worked great-EXCEPT for the noises issue.

Noise were only when connected to the TV?

 

[poppie8]

Noise were only when connected to the TV?

I also got noises via using a laptop via usb C via toslink adaptor to ML Unision to the M300se. This wasn't as annoying as it was much lower in volume and no spurious noises during the audio pause This was a short scratchy type noise only when pressing pause and then a short scratchy noise again to unpause. I do like to watch music performances via Youtube so the noise via that source was/is a deal breaker for me. Because of the various different useage environments, gear-etc, one may have these problems or not. As I mentioned, I really wanted the unit to work out as it was a perfect fit for my use. I would have kept it if I could have found a work-around for the noise issue. I have ordered the SMSL D-6S and-fingers crossed-it will meet my needs..

 

[renaudrenaud]

I also got noises via using a laptop via usb C via toslink adaptor to ML Unision to the M300se. This wasn't as annoying as it was much lower in volume and no spurious noises during the audio pause This was a short scratchy type noise only when pressing pause and then a short scratchy noise again to unpause. I do like to watch music performances via Youtube so the noise via that source was/is a deal breaker for me. Because of the various different useage environments, gear-etc, one may have these problems or not. As I mentioned, I really wanted the unit to work out as it was a perfect fit for my use. I would have kept it if I could have found a work-around for the noise issue.

Maybe with some horrible signal from TV and the same from plenty of adapters, it was impossible to synchronize the different clocks. You never use it with a clean USB to USB, without adapters in between?

 

[poppie8]

Maybe with some horrible signal from TV and the same from plenty of adapters, it was impossible to synchronize the different clocks. You never use it with a clean USB to USB, without adapters in between?

I didn't use it without the adapter to try it that way. As I mentioned, I don't have any of these problems with the Wiim Pro Plus through any device. The Wiim does not have a USB output connector but I do run it the same way: toslink, without any spurious noises. I wouldn't have bothered with the M300se if I didn't want the balanced out and the USC C connector. I can work-around those issues however. I'd keep the Wiim Pro Plus ( and I still might as it's been perfect so far) but I just don't need the streamer and could use those other attributes of: Balanced output-Physical Volume Knob-USB C input. The Wiim Pro Plus adds some things also that appeal to me such as Parametric EQ and a great app but still evaluating what's the best route. As others have mentioned, it's a great time to be involved with this hobby as the costs are reasonable-especially considering the technology advancement-directly effecting the quality of sound attainable for the masses. Happy New Year to all.

 

[renaudrenaud]

Happy new year.

Sorry to read you returned your unit when I am so happy with my sample I got it for holidays and use it as much as I can. Lot of joy with good music and honest headphones.

 

[kodreaming]

Going to return it after all. It is cheap, but not worth to live with the constant pop/click noise.

 

[UA8890]

Going to return it after all. It is cheap, but not worth to live with the constant pop/click noise.

I'm going to return it too. This is a problem, not a problem. Constant pops and clicks. Crude scheme. It's impossible to listen to this. Moreover, pops and clicks regardless of the source. The worst DAC of the five I have.I made a big mistake. That I believed the advertising. And what did this DAC buy? We need to take time-tested DACs.

 

[MathGold]

Hello everyone,
As a long-time supporter of the sound of the Myryad z20 converter based on the Cirrus Logic CS4398-CZZ system and the desire to use the balanced path (XLR),
I purchased the M300SE for testing.

Some tips:
The USB cable in the box is just a power cable!
In my opinion, the manufacturer marked the USB-C inputs incorrectly: Aux /Power = Power, and Power = USB-IN.
We must use power supply - a powerbank, e.g. (TP-Link TL-PB10400, Tracer TRABAT47064)

In my case, I liked the LaCie drive cables the most (both USB-C ->C and USB-A ->C), no other cable provided
such great quality at the USB-IN input, both from the phone and from the Intel NUC server, what's more, the best quality
I achieved this without additional power supply at the Aux/Power input.
The finally selected filter was FL3 (the smoothest, full and calmed sound, which is natural and perfectly suited to my musical climate) and, of course, the fixed mode.
This filter is also the closest to the Myryad z20 sound reference.

Tested in many configurations on Flac, Tidal (HiRes, MQA) files from the USB Audio player, Squeezer and Wiim applications:
1.USB transport - Huawei P30pro
2.USB Transport - Intel NUC N3060 (Daphile)
3. spdif transport - Mozos HD (Aptx-HD)
4.Coax transport -Wiim Pro Plus powered by a powerbank

Wiim Pro Plus (I'm only reviewing the stream) is a great device for most people, offering a whole lot of possibilities, but it can't beat the Intel NUC on Daphile, it plays noticeably digitally (thinly) over coax or Spdif.
You can get a slightly better message by omitting the Wiim application and using Wiim as UPnP.
Both Myryad and SMSL transducers gave the same results when receiving a signal from Wiim to LAN.
Wiim had to return to the seller :=(

Focusing on the Intel NUC by Daphil transport and making direct comparisons, switching only the input on the SMSL amplifier, it surprised me very positively, it is very close to Myryad, the black background is on both, it's amazing how the sounds
they come out of nowhere. The z20 has a slightly better transfer of vocals and a more analog sound with a slightly larger bass backing, but SMSL gives a feeling of better - slightly greater dynamics and spaciousness.
It's surprising that the Goldenote doesn't play louder on XLR vs RCA, but maybe that's because the Myryad outputs 2.4 Vrms.

So, while searching for optimal solutions, I achieved an amazing value for money effect.
I will leave it in the system, after all, the amplifier works in full balance (XLR) and also provides MQA.
However, when I turn on Myryad z20, I have the impression that the turntable is playing, which provides the best feeling in the audio system.

My system: Harmonizer Nordost QV2, Audiograde conditioner, USB transport - Intel NUC N3060 (Daphile),
Myryad z20, RCA PSB Basic Gold PB, Goldenote Signature S1 dual mono single ended (XLR), ELAC BS 244.3 HG on Mission stand
and of course there will be S.M.S.L M300SE.
Intel NUC powered by a 12V -1.5A transformer (linear - stabilized)

 

[TonyJZX]

even though i have a fair few smsl stuff i mixed all the cables up so i dont know what is oem any more

but i'm using a generic LONG usb c cable from a keyboard or some random peripheral and its fine

right now its on a HP workstation that is an EM mess inside... 12 cores bunch of ssds 32gb

havent had an issue ever with this one

i doubt 'higher end' type c cables would do anything

 

[Solveit]

Just a thought, I messed around with my power cords to clean up.
And got maybe same ticking sound that people say.
I just switch it around in my power supply, then it whent quiet.
So I think it not have good filtering in USB power input.
It's worth a trie.
And dont't use severel input to your power, amps and so on.
Just one block.
And some like to be first to the lead.

 

[UA8890]

My USB cables are not connected. They are excluded. The pops come on the bare DAC from the rca and xlr outputs. (This is shown by a connected multimeter. During the clap, the DC voltage surges up to 3 volts). I tried different power supplies. I also tried power bank. It did not help. The popping noise is especially loud when switching inputs on the DAC.

 

[MathGold]

My USB cables are not connected. They are excluded. The pops come on the bare DAC from the rca and xlr outputs. (This is shown by a connected multimeter. During the clap, the DC voltage surges up to 3 volts). I tried different power supplies. I also tried power bank. It did not help. The popping noise is especially loud when switching inputs on the DAC.

It shouldn't be like this, I remember buying Myryad 8 years ago and testing the Audio-gd converter at the same time.
Myryad is absolute silence when switching inputs, Audio-gd knocked and hummed - unacceptable.
SMSL in my system (USB-C) is absolutely silent even when changing sampling rates or PCM to MQA.
I achieve this with aplication USB Audio player pro and Squeezer.

 

[renaudrenaud]

I think just one USB data cable is enough to power the SMSL M300SE, no need to add a second cable for power only. The consumption is very low, 0.7 / 0.8W even with 32 bits 705kHz input and a XLR + headphones outputs.

 

[MathGold]

My meter shows consumption from 0.9 to 1.5W without headphones, only output to an XLR amplifier.
The stabilized linear power supply for IntelNuc has 1.5A, which is sufficient for both devices.
I have the impression that the additional power supply "spoils the sound quality" - I do not recommend it.

 

[renaudrenaud]

My meter shows consumption from 0.9 to 1.5W without headphones, only output to an XLR amplifier.
The stabilized linear power supply for IntelNuc has 1.5A, which is sufficient for both devices.
I have the impression that the additional power supply "spoils the sound quality" - I do not recommend it.

Mine is between 0.7 / 0.9W. Curious. Screen light is level 1, tomorrow I will test with level 4 to check if there is a difference.

 

[shock]

Hello everyone,

I hope you're all doing well. I'm relatively new to the audiophile hobby and have been considering the SMSL m300se as a DAC/amp. I've come across some discussions suggesting that it might lack sufficient power. According to the manufacturer's specifications, it claims to supply 148mW of power to a 32-ohm headphone.

Now, here's where I could use some guidance. I own the Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro 80 ohm, and based on my calculations, it requires around 27mW. Given these details, I'm wondering if the SMSL m300se would serve well as both an amplifier and DAC for my setup.

Your insights and recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for your valuable input.

 

[K3l3m4n]

Hello everyone,

I have bought the SMSL m300se to use it with my TV's optical output. It came with the newer frimware out of the box.
I also have a FiiO Taishan DAC, but I wanted something with a remote control.

My problem is, that I get no sound with the SMSL m300se with the optical input. I have tried it with my pc with USB, it works. It also works with bluetooth, and it also worked with my father's older TV with optical, but with my TV it doesn't, while the FiiO does, with the exact same settings in the TV. I have set the TV optical output format to PCM.

The strange thing is, that the screen shows no signal from optical on the SMSL m300se when no optical cable is connected, and it shows 44.1 khz when the cable is connected, but no sound (with my TV).

Would it help if I bought an optical to coax digital to digital converter, or would I face the same potential incompatibility issue? If not, could the converter degrade the signal, or alter it in any audible way? (As far as I understand digital to digital shouldn't be too bad)

Or alternatively should I try to buy an HDMIArc to optical/coax converter and use that?

Or what else could I try?

I know it has Bluetooth also, and I am using it that way now, but I would much more prefer it to use it via a less lossy and cabled connection if possible. My TV is an LG QNED 55QNED753RA.

 

[MathGold]

In my opinion, the device is damaged and there is no point in trying just to file a complaint or send it back.
I would also check another optical cable.

 

[UA8890]

Hello everyone,

I have bought the SMSL m300se to use it with my TV's optical output. It came with the newer frimware out of the box.
I also have a FiiO Taishan DAC, but I wanted something with a remote control.

My problem is, that I get no sound with the SMSL m300se with the optical input. I have tried it with my pc with USB, it works. It also works with bluetooth, and it also worked with my father's older TV with optical, but with my TV it doesn't, while the FiiO does, with the exact same settings in the TV. I have set the TV optical output format to PCM.

The strange thing is, that the screen shows no signal from optical on the SMSL m300se when no optical cable is connected, and it shows 44.1 khz when the cable is connected, but no sound (with my TV).

Would it help if I bought an optical to coax digital to digital converter, or would I face the same potential incompatibility issue? If not, could the converter degrade the signal, or alter it in any audible way? (As far as I understand digital to digital shouldn't be too bad)

Or alternatively should I try to buy an HDMIArc to optical/coax converter and use that?

Or what else could I try?

I know it has Bluetooth also, and I am using it that way now, but I would much more prefer it to use it via a less lossy and cabled connection if possible. My TV is an LG QNED 55QNED753RA.

Even if the DAC stands on its own. AND Not connected to the source. The display must have inputs, including an optical input. Press the button on the front panel. And all inputs should be shown on the display one by one.