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Panasonic DP-UB9000 UHD Player Review

MacCali

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When using analog outputs and setting the speakers to small, does anyone know what the crossover is set to?
Is it going into a receiver or out of the Panasonic?

I think it’s typically 80 or 120, I believe it’s 120. If my memory serves me correct I think most subs go to 150
 

Oski1928

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Is it going into a receiver or out of the Panasonic?

I think it’s typically 80 or 120, I believe it’s 120. If my memory serves me correct I think most subs go to 150
Out of the Panasonic. I’m using the RCA outs to run the player into my stereo system. When setting up the analog outputs you can set the speakers either large or small. I assume that there is some form of HPF when set to small within the Panasonic but I don’t know where it sets it at
 

MacCali

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Out of the Panasonic. I’m using the RCA outs to run the player into my stereo system. When setting up the analog outputs you can set the speakers either large or small. I assume that there is some form of HPF when set to small within the Panasonic but I don’t know where it sets it at
Usually it’s one of the two, don’t have a quality microphone to check with room EQ wizard? It’s free software but you’re going to need a mic.

Why not just contact Panasonic. I am guessing this is for your sub(s) crossover point
 

Oski1928

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Usually it’s one of the two, don’t have a quality microphone to check with room EQ wizard? It’s free software but you’re going to need a mic.

Why not just contact Panasonic. I am guessing this is for your sub(s) crossover point
Yea I can contact them. Actually no, I’m running a 2.0 system. My speakers are bookshelves though. If the crossover point wasn’t too high I was going to consider running them small within the Panasonic to prevent the low frequencies from being sent to them. I think if it’s fixed at 80 or especially 120 that’ll be too high and I’ll just run them full range.

Obviously this is just for movies that I’m talking about. I run them full range for music
 

MacCali

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Yea I can contact them. Actually no, I’m running a 2.0 system. My speakers are bookshelves though. If the crossover point wasn’t too high I was going to consider running them small within the Panasonic to prevent the low frequencies from being sent to them. I think if it’s fixed at 80 or especially 120 that’ll be too high and I’ll just run them full range.

Obviously this is just for movies that I’m talking about. I run them full range for music
If you are not using subs there’s no point of changing it unless your bass is distorted because you’re playing at loud volumes. A sub would solve all of this.
 

Jeff1412

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I was looking at this unit and was surprised that it has XLR output.. I have a wild idea..
does it make sense to connect ub9000 to a power amp using XLR cales and have a decent sound? (Better than an average integrated amp, maybe?)

would love to know if anybody had similar experience..
 

tmtomh

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I was looking at this unit and was surprised that it has XLR output.. I have a wild idea..
does it make sense to connect ub9000 to a power amp using XLR cales and have a decent sound? (Better than an average integrated amp, maybe?)

would love to know if anybody had similar experience..

Yes, you can use a source component directly with a power amp, as long as the source component has a volume control and the amp has enough gain to give you the volume you want without a preamp in the chain. I used my Oppo UDP-205 this way for years.
 

Jeff1412

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Yes, you can use a source component directly with a power amp, as long as the source component has a volume control and the amp has enough gain to give you the volume you want without a preamp in the chain. I used my Oppo UDP-205 this way for years.
Thanks!! I just thought of this and this is quite a good solution until the volume control problem..
what kind of source component are you referring to? does it mean it’ll add another remote too??
 

tmtomh

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Thanks!! I just thought of this and this is quite a good solution until the volume control problem..
what kind of source component are you referring to? does it mean it’ll add another remote too??

Oh, I didn't realize the UB-9000 doesn't have a volume control (the list of things that Oppo "replacements" don't have is amazing to me). In that case you definitely need a component to sit between the Panasonic and your power amp, because of course you need to be able to dynamically control the volume.

A preamp does 3 things: switch between inputs, control volume, and preamplify the signal from your source components (like your UB-9000) in preparation for sending to the power amp. It sounds like you don't need input switching, and it's likely that you don't need preamplification either - 4V output from the UB-9000's XLR outputs should be enough for most power amps.

But you do need the volume control, and you need your volume control device to have XLR/balanced input and output. That probably means you need a preamp, though there might be a more stripped down device out there that does away with the input switching and/or the preamplification.

And yes, you'd have another remote, or else you'd have no way to control the volume without walking directly up to the unit itself.
 
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MacCali

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Thanks!! I just thought of this and this is quite a good solution until the volume control problem..
what kind of source component are you referring to? does it mean it’ll add another remote too??
Honestly you maybe better off with the magnatar udp 800. Unfortunately we don’t have measurements to give solid feedback and also it’s 700 dollars more expensive.

Currently looking to see how to expand my home theater quality by using physical content.

My other suggestion would be by a zidoo. They have that eversolo line which has been excellent. That Z1000 pro is actually a very good set up and for ~1300 you can get everything you want stored on NAS and easily accessible just like streaming. Especially if you already own the content/physical media.

Edit: Also if you currently have a bdp you can just buy the z1000pro and 16 tb hard drive and rip disks from your bdp to the 16 tb HD using the z1000pro. Which would cost about 1000 or less. *or at least that’s what I understood the z1000 is capable of in the review

This last suggestion is the reason why I said the magnatar, it too has pretty much the same technology from zapiti which is 4k network streamer and future proofing if you ever want to go down that road
 

Jeff1412

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Honestly you maybe better off with the magnatar udp 800. Unfortunately we don’t have measurements to give solid feedback and also it’s 700 dollars more expensive.

Currently looking to see how to expand my home theater quality by using physical content.

My other suggestion would be by a zidoo. They have that eversolo line which has been excellent. That Z1000 pro is actually a very good set up and for ~1300 you can get everything you want stored on NAS and easily accessible just like streaming. Especially if you already own the content/physical media.

Edit: Also if you currently have a bdp you can just buy the z1000pro and 16 tb hard drive and rip disks from your bdp to the 16 tb HD using the z1000pro. Which would cost about 1000 or less. *or at least that’s what I understood the z1000 is capable of in the review

This last suggestion is the reason why I said the magnatar, it too has pretty much the same technology from zapiti which is 4k network streamer and future proofing if you ever want to go down that road
Oh, I didn't realize the UB-9000 doesn't have a volume control (the list of things that Oppo "replacements" don't have is amazing to me). In that case you definitely need a component to sit between the Panasonic and your power amp, because of course you need to be able to dynamically control the volume.

A preamp does 3 things: switch between inputs, control volume, and preamplify the signal from your source components (like your UB-9000) in preparation for sending to the power amp. It sounds like you don't need input switching, and it's likely that you don't need preamplification either - 4V output from the UB-9000's XLR outputs should be enough for most power amps.

But you do need the volume control, and you need your volume control device to have XLR/balanced input and output. That probably means you need a preamp, though there might be a more stripped down device out there that does away with the input switching and/or the preamplification.

And yes, you'd have another remote, or else you'd have no way to control the volume without walking directly up to the unit itself.

Unfortunately I don’t think I’ll add another pre-amp separate.

should I get an integrated amp instead and connect them by RCA (analogue in) so that I can eventually adjust volume?

How does one properly take advantage of this DAC then??

Edit: and the subwoofer would be directly connected to ub9000 sub pre-out I assume?
 

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MacCali

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Unfortunately I don’t think I’ll add another pre-amp separate.

should I get an integrated amp instead and connect them by RCA (analogue in) so that I can eventually adjust volume?

How does one properly take advantage of this DAC then??

Edit: and the subwoofer would be directly connected to ub9000 sub pre-out I assume?
Honestly I think they may have mentioned that above. To be real though I got no clue why there’s no volume control with analog output. Or maybe just no volume control on the multi out idk
 

tmtomh

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Unfortunately I don’t think I’ll add another pre-amp separate.

should I get an integrated amp instead and connect them by RCA (analogue in) so that I can eventually adjust volume?

How does one properly take advantage of this DAC then??

Edit: and the subwoofer would be directly connected to ub9000 sub pre-out I assume?

Neither I nor anyone else can provide a definitive, single answer to your question of which gear to have and how to connect it. But your questions here are right on-target: you have identified some key problems with how a lot of audio gear is designed and marketed. In 2023, if you're going to make a high-end digital source component (like the UB-9000), it makes no sense not to have volume control included, at least for its analogue outputs.

If you want to take advantage of the DAC in the UB-9000, then you have to use its analogue outputs. And if you want the best possible performance from those analogue outputs, you need to use the balanced outputs, which it has for stereo output.

The reason you want to use the balanced outputs is twofold:
  1. The more commonly cited reason, but IMHO the less important reason, is that units like this often provide 1-4dB better SINAD (distortion and or noise performance) than when they are connected using their unbalanced (RCA) connections. I say this is less important because the difference is usually not audible, and in fact some units provide the exact same performance out of either their balanced or unbalanced outputs.
  2. The more importnat reason, IMHO, is that the balanced connection between the UB-9000 and the next component in your chain will provide a good deal of immunity to noise and ground loops that are not part of the measured performance of the UB-9000 but rather are generated by the connections among your components. So this is a type of audible hum and/or hiss that cannot be measured in a review and cannot be predicted ahead of time because it varies from setup to setup, and using the balanced XLR connections minimizes or eliminates this potential issue.
That said, though, you can connect the UB-9000 to almost anything you want, as long as it has balanced analogue inputs and a volume control: a preamp, a digital processor, an integrated amp, or active speakers with their own built-in amplifiers.

Hope this helps!
 

Jeff1412

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Neither I nor anyone else can provide a definitive, single answer to your question of which gear to have and how to connect it. But your questions here are right on-target: you have identified some key problems with how a lot of audio gear is designed and marketed. In 2023, if you're going to make a high-end digital source component (like the UB-9000), it makes no sense not to have volume control included, at least for its analogue outputs.

If you want to take advantage of the DAC in the UB-9000, then you have to use its analogue outputs. And if you want the best possible performance from those analogue outputs, you need to use the balanced outputs, which it has for stereo output.

The reason you want to use the balanced outputs is twofold:
  1. The more commonly cited reason, but IMHO the less important reason, is that units like this often provide 1-4dB better SINAD (distortion and or noise performance) than when they are connected using their unbalanced (RCA) connections. I say this is less important because the difference is usually not audible, and in fact some units provide the exact same performance out of either their balanced or unbalanced outputs.
  2. The more importnat reason, IMHO, is that the balanced connection between the UB-9000 and the next component in your chain will provide a good deal of immunity to noise and ground loops that are not part of the measured performance of the UB-9000 but rather are generated by the connections among your components. So this is a type of audible hum and/or hiss that cannot be measured in a review and cannot be predicted ahead of time because it varies from setup to setup, and using the balanced XLR connections minimizes or eliminates this potential issue.
That said, though, you can connect the UB-9000 to almost anything you want, as long as it has balanced analogue inputs and a volume control: a preamp, a digital processor, an integrated amp, or active speakers with their own built-in amplifiers.

Hope this helps!
Honestly I think they may have mentioned that above. To be real though I got no clue why there’s no volume control with analog output. Or maybe just no volume control on the multi out idk
Hi guys,
Just want to update you that Panasonic replied to my question and stated that there’s an XLR analogue volume control in audio settings. I guess this is somewhat helpful, yet not practical..

In the end, I opted for an integrated amp, which is easier for my setup.
 

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Andysu

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Hi guys,
Just want to update you that Panasonic replied to my question and stated that there’s an XLR analogue volume control in audio settings. I guess this is somewhat helpful, yet not practical..

In the end, I opted for an integrated amp, which is easier for my setup.
i don't even use the xlr , just the L R rca for Lt Rt Dolby Stereo use on zone 2 or zone 3 outputs from denon 8500h to stormaudio elite mkIII 32 as storm doesn't have enough inputs and i have to do some complex B chain networking
 

Albert Dagger

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I have been using this Blu-ray player for a couple of years now, but primarily using the HDMI output. I wonder if it's possible to use the HDMI and the XLR/RCA stereo outputs at the same time, so that when I play a CD I can use the analogue outs and when I watch a movie I can take advantage of the HDMI. According to the instructions, it seems I have to go to the settings every single time and switch HDMI on and off, which is annoying.
 

Bob from Florida

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I have been using this Blu-ray player for a couple of years now, but primarily using the HDMI output. I wonder if it's possible to use the HDMI and the XLR/RCA stereo outputs at the same time, so that when I play a CD I can use the analogue outs and when I watch a movie I can take advantage of the HDMI. According to the instructions, it seems I have to go to the settings every single time and switch HDMI on and off, which is annoying.
I use this player this way. HDMI to TV and RCA out to line in on stereo. RCA out from TV to a different line in on stereo. Play movies or CD's and use TV DAC for audio in to stereo system or DAC in 9000 - RCA out - to feed input to stereo. Both active at same time, switch between inputs on stereo and have audio both ways.
 

ivanfraser

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Does anyone know why the UB9000 is supplied with a 3 pin ac power cable, and yet the socket on the player is only 2 pin?

I have only just noticed this, and am trying to trace down some high end brightness - with some mid high distortion/sibilance - in my kit and wondered if it could induce some kind of signal via the unused earth pin.

I remember that I got a ground loop hum issue when replacing the old 900 player with this and had to disconnect the coax at the time (hum was on the phono out side but improved when I used XLR). So I'm reconsidering the issue in light of that.

Having unplugged the 9000, there seems to be an improvement in the issue. I also suspect there still may be some kind of induced problem elsewhere and will be disassembling soon to replace an 8-year old ethernet switch also as a potential issue.

Any thoughts?
 

Bob from Florida

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Does anyone know why the UB9000 is supplied with a 3 pin ac power cable, and yet the socket on the player is only 2 pin?

I have only just noticed this, and am trying to trace down some high end brightness - with some mid high distortion/sibilance - in my kit and wondered if it could induce some kind of signal via the unused earth pin.

I remember that I got a ground loop hum issue when replacing the old 900 player with this and had to disconnect the coax at the time (hum was on the phono out side but improved when I used XLR). So I'm reconsidering the issue in light of that.

Having unplugged the 9000, there seems to be an improvement in the issue. I also suspect there still may be some kind of induced problem elsewhere and will be disassembling soon to replace an 8-year old ethernet switch also as a potential issue.

Any thoughts?
Not having a ground wire eliminates a ground loop from that perspective. Other connections, such as coax digital out could introduce a ground loop depending on the other equipment. Always start with a minimum confirmation and add things one at a time to gauge when the hum starts.
 

GXAlan

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I have only just noticed this, and am trying to trace down some high end brightness - with some mid high distortion/sibilance - in my kit and wondered if it could induce some kind of signal via the unused earth pin.
The only way to trace down some of these tricky issues is to take your own measurements

Weird interactions can happen, including physical positioning of cables/devices which are classically going to be measurable but not audible, but you may have some perfect storm. If you get different measurements when physically grounding the chassis by touching it, for example, then you would know that the unused earth pin is affecting the playback somehow.

A UMIK-1/UMIK-2 or similarly accurate calibrated microphone can help too. @jhaider has identified issues with a JBL 705p where either the firmware was incorrectly loaded or there was a bum compression driver. If you have a speaker that has always worked and now it sounds distorted a bit, it may be something like the ferrofluid drying out, a crossover capacitor failing, or you have an active speaker where something glitched the firmware you might be able to measure a difference that may not have existed before, etc.

That's the best way to troubleshoot and find the needle-in-the-haystack.
 
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