Need advice on floor speakers, budget around 1,500 $

[Deleted member 48726]

Yamaha rib width 14cm, height 7cm, depth 4cm
Leak rib width 20cm, height 10cm, depth 7.5cm
Even without the deep ribs in the leak, the cooling surface would be slightly larger, but only 2%. With the deep ribs there is significantly more cooling surface.

Where did you get those measurements?

 

[TankTop]

I would suggest looking locally for used speaker, much more bang for the buck

Edit add: reading through the post it looks like Revel F35/F36 are on sale in your budget, not much in your price range can touch those

 

[Roland68]

Where did you get those measurements?

View attachment 338231
View attachment 338232

I already had the Yamaha on the table and someone in my circle of friends had the leak. But only since Christmas, but unfortunately I haven't heard it yet because the distance is a bit long.

I put the two pictures exactly next to each other to scale. Should be accurate to less than 1%, as we also use the method for measuring objects on images in industry.
You can clearly see the difference between the heat sinks.

 

[MarcT]

Put a fan on either of them! I'm no EE or technician, but I like the look of that Leak transformer and capacitors.

 

[Deleted member 48726]

I already had the Yamaha on the table and someone in my circle of friends had the leak. But only since Christmas, but unfortunately I haven't heard it yet because the distance is a bit long.

I put the two pictures exactly next to each other to scale. Should be accurate to less than 1%, as we also use the method for measuring objects on images in industry.
You can clearly see the difference between the heat sinks.
View attachment 338235

Fair enough. Good job. Perspective is everything.

 

[DanielT]

OP has now made the choice of speakers. But an amplifier is needed for them:

Amplifier for Wharfedale Linton, budget $ 1,300

Howdy Having finally settled on a choice of speakers, I would appreciate some further advice on which amplifier to pick to go along with them. I'm going for a pair of Linton speakers from Wharfedale, so the amplifier will need sufficient juice to run them at reasonable volumes, i.e. volumes...

audiosciencereview.com

 

[Roland68]

Have you seen the measurements from Stereophile? https://www.stereophile.com/content/leak-stereo-230-integrated-amplifier-measurements

This looks really good and is consistent with what a friend told me. The HDMI connection with the return channel also works without any problems, but that also depends on the television.

Have you already decided on the Lintos? With the original stands?

 

[kaffe]

This looks really good and is consistent with what a friend told me. The HDMI connection with the return channel also works without any problems, but that also depends on the television.

Have you already decided on the Lintos? With the original stands?

Yup. The original stands are included in the price (which seems hard to beat sitting at around $ 1,200).

 

[Roland68]

Yup. The original stands are included in the price (which seems hard to beat sitting at around $ 1,200).

I'm really jealous because I really like these vintage 3-way monitors with floor stands.
If you have problems with the bass in your room, please contact me.

 

[kaffe]

I'm really jealous because I really like these vintage 3-way monitors with floor stands.
If you have problems with the bass in your room, please contact me.

Will do.

 

[Roland68]

I'm no EE or technician, but I like the look of that Leak transformer and capacitors.

Yes, Leak uses really good components in the device, but of course that also costs money.

Put a fan on either of them!

That's exactly what you shouldn't do.
Normally, direct and strong convection is undesirable in a HiFi amplifier, especially because it makes a stable operating point/working temperature impossible.
That's why you won't find any or only small cooling openings in many amplifiers, which tend to provide indirect cooling.
But it also depends heavily on the circuit as to how sensitive it is to temperature fluctuations.
If a heatsink on an amplifier is not directly ventilated with large openings, the developer most likely had something in mind.

Further information can be found in countless publications on the subject of "Influence of temperature on the operating point", "Thermal instability", "Compensation measures for temperature drift" etc.
This is a fundamental problem with amplifier circuits, which is why stable working temperatures in a range between 40°-60° are often sought. The fact that these temperatures are not a fundamental problem can be seen in many amplifiers that only need to be overhauled after 20-30 years.

 

[MarcT]

Yes, Leak uses really good components in the device, but of course that also costs money.

That's exactly what you shouldn't do.
Normally, direct and strong convection is undesirable in a HiFi amplifier, especially because it makes a stable operating point/working temperature impossible.
That's why you won't find any or only small cooling openings in many amplifiers, which tend to provide indirect cooling.
But it also depends heavily on the circuit as to how sensitive it is to temperature fluctuations.
If a heatsink on an amplifier is not directly ventilated with large openings, the developer most likely had something in mind.

Further information can be found in countless publications on the subject of "Influence of temperature on the operating point", "Thermal instability", "Compensation measures for temperature drift" etc.
This is a fundamental problem with amplifier circuits, which is why stable working temperatures in a range between 40°-60° are often sought. The fact that these temperatures are not a fundamental problem can be seen in many amplifiers that only need to be overhauled after 20-30 years.

Hmm, it seems like most audio enthusiasts put cooling fans on their AVR's, ostensibly to prolong the lifespan. Denon AVR's get really hot, especially if in an equipment rack.

 

[mglobe]

Hmm, it seems like most audio enthusiasts put cooling fans on their AVR's, ostensibly to prolong the lifespan. Denon AVR's get really hot, especially if in an equipment rack.

I don’t have enough knowledge to determin if active cooling is a good thing. But what most do (or perhaps many would be more accurate), doesn’t prove to me that it is needed or beneficial.

 

[MarcT]

I don’t have enough knowledge to determin if active cooling is a good thing. But what most do (or perhaps many would be more accurate), doesn’t prove to me that it is needed or beneficial.

Okay, well, I have a big Krell power amp that can also be used as a space heater because it runs so hot. I did put a cooling fan on it with the hope that it would prolong its life, but it sounds like it could actually impair its performance.

 

[Deleted member 48726]

Hmm, it seems like most audio enthusiasts put cooling fans on their AVR's, ostensibly to prolong the lifespan. Denon AVR's get really hot, especially if in an equipment rack.

Blowing air on some bias circuit transistors will effectively raise bias current which in turn can burn transistors if it's sensitive enough.

Don't put fans on or in amplifiers not designed with forced air flow.

 

[Bernard23]

Yup. The original stands are included in the price (which seems hard to beat sitting at around $ 1,200).

I rwsd the entire thread because I have an A-S501 and thinking about bigger speakers (for a large 15 x 6m room). Lintons ate intriguing, but did you get the Yamaha?

 

[DanielT]

I rwsd the entire thread because I have an A-S501 and thinking about bigger speakers (for a large 15 x 6m room). Lintons ate intriguing, but did you get the Yamaha?

It was a big room you have, 90 square meters. But why not bigger speakers than Linton's in that case?

If you like to play at high volume in your large room, then high SPL with low distortion is something you should really factor into the equation. By such a room, I mean really big speakers, such as Gnarlys:

B&C dcx464 coax compression driver, four 4" mids, two 12" lows, and two 18" woofers.
The woofers are either another pair or 18n862's or what I currently have in place, Dayton 18SW1200N's.

You know, I realize folks can't help but look at a huge speaker setup like that and see nothing but SPL.
And think what the heck.....who can even use a speaker like that.

SPL is not what that rig is about....it is my attempt at the highest sound quality i think i can achieve.
Yes, High linear SPL, ......completely uncompressed, unclipped, undistorted for both average and peaks...... across the spectrum and down to the very bottom....... IS a part of the formula.

But believe it or not, it's a quite delicate sounding speaker, with clarity and a tonal vibrancy I think is best I've heard to date....
A lot of work went into trying to achieve a point source like behaviour with low intermodulation potential, and excellent transient response.

Gnarly in #37 and #44 in this thread:

Ultra-low frequency Rotary Subwoofer

What is this? Ultra-low frequency Rotary Subwoofer I've never heard of. Seems exciting. Anyone know anything more about it? Is it possible to get it for Hifi? Or? I have no idea.:) So for frequencies in if the audible range above 19 Hz? But how to solve it? What would you gain from that? That...

audiosciencereview.com

Gnaryl's rig is a DIY build so it might not be relevant for you? It was mostly to show an example of what I consider BIG speakers.

Otherwise, if you are now going to have the Linton's, consider adding a number of subwoofers. At least I had done that. Four subwoofers or more in a room as big as yours would make sense.

 

[kaffe]

I rwsd the entire thread because I have an A-S501 and thinking about bigger speakers (for a large 15 x 6m room). Lintons ate intriguing, but did you get the Yamaha?

Yup.