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Amplifier for Wharfedale Linton, budget $ 1,300

mwlf

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actually i agree with you - i recently sold an entire high end system, , because i just did not think it was worth it, compared with a 2-3k setup, in a regular room )fairly bad room actually).
so i will go for Yamaha A-S701 or RN-1000 (for simpler system), thank you; linton + yamaha - i very much like their looks, and i hope they will sound decent.
 

bdvan

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In all three devices A-S701, R-N803 and R-N800A, 2 x 2SA1694 and 2 x 2SC4467 Sanken transistors are installed on each side.
So the N-800A same amplifier circuitry resembles A-S701 and N-800A performance should match A-S701? I am on the fence trying to decide between these two and going with N-800A is no brainer if the amp section is similar to A-S701.
 
D

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So the N-800A same amplifier circuitry resembles A-S701 and N-800A performance should match A-S701? I am on the fence trying to decide between these two and going with N-800A is no brainer if the amp section is similar to A-S701.
This thread might be of interest-->

 

bdvan

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This thread might be of interest-->

There is no data for N-800A on that thread :(
 

ziggurcat

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I am keenly interested in this amplifier to use in my 2.1ch HT system (which consists of a pair of Wharfedale Lintons). I will be using external amplification (Emotiva BasX A3 for now, but it's being replaced by a Buckeye Hypex NCx500 2-channel amp) so I'm not too concerned about the power aspect, but what I would be most interested to find out is how YPAO functions with this unit. I have been used to Audyssey for a while, so I'm not too familiar with Yamaha's room correction software. I would like to know if:

1. It only takes measurements from a single position (AccuEQ on my old Onkyo AVR did this)
2. The data can be extracted, imported into REW, fine-tuned, and re-uploaded to the R-N800A
3. If this suffers from the same Speed of Sound miscalculation that Denon/Marantz AVRs have prior to the late 2022/20233 models

The lack of HDMI will be mitigated with an HDMI switcher.
 
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AdrenalinH

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Hello, new member heer and looking for some advice :) I have lintons 85 and now need amp for them. I have listened to

1. Yamaha n600 and n800
2. Arcam SA20 and SA30
3. Marantz pm7000n and 40n
4. Cambridge cxa61

I didn't like Yamaha (too bright for me), Arcam and Cambridge - not bad, but I really liked Marantz 7000, and I found 40n about 15% better than 7000 in terms of sound.

To be honest looks and good materials (aluminium handles, wood) also matter for me and I really interested in Leak 230, but I cannot find anywhere to listen to it. I kinda ready to pay the premium for the looks, but sound quality matters most. In case of Leak I will have to go with the streamer as well (like wiim)

So, the question, can anybody please share how does pm7000n sound comparing to leak 230. Marantz 40n is out of my budget for now.

Marantz pm7000n will cost me 900 eur, leak 230 - 1500 eur, so yeah not sure if the looks will justify the price difference. Thank you.
 

HarmonicTHD

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Hello, new member heer and looking for some advice :) I have lintons 85 and now need amp for them. I have listened to

1. Yamaha n600 and n800
2. Arcam SA20 and SA30
3. Marantz pm7000n and 40n
4. Cambridge cxa61

I didn't like Yamaha (too bright for me), Arcam and Cambridge - not bad, but I really liked Marantz 7000, and I found 40n about 15% better than 7000 in terms of sound.

To be honest looks and good materials (aluminium handles, wood) also matter for me and I really interested in Leak 230, but I cannot find anywhere to listen to it. I kinda ready to pay the premium for the looks, but sound quality matters most. In case of Leak I will have to go with the streamer as well (like wiim)

So, the question, can anybody please share how does pm7000n sound comparing to leak 230. Marantz 40n is out of my budget for now.

Marantz pm7000n will cost me 900 eur, leak 230 - 1500 eur, so yeah not sure if the looks will justify the price difference. Thank you.
Have a look at this video, it’s time well invested. Once you understand this you will have it much easier finding the right amp

 

DanielT

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Hello, new member heer and looking for some advice :) I have lintons 85 and now need amp for them. I have listened to

1. Yamaha n600 and n800
2. Arcam SA20 and SA30
3. Marantz pm7000n and 40n
4. Cambridge cxa61

I didn't like Yamaha (too bright for me), Arcam and Cambridge - not bad, but I really liked Marantz 7000, and I found 40n about 15% better than 7000 in terms of sound.

To be honest looks and good materials (aluminium handles, wood) also matter for me and I really interested in Leak 230, but I cannot find anywhere to listen to it. I kinda ready to pay the premium for the looks, but sound quality matters most. In case of Leak I will have to go with the streamer as well (like wiim)

So, the question, can anybody please share how does pm7000n sound comparing to leak 230. Marantz 40n is out of my budget for now.

Marantz pm7000n will cost me 900 eur, leak 230 - 1500 eur, so yeah not sure if the looks will justify the price difference. Thank you.
Welcome here new member.:)

Well, what about the need for power?

The Marantz amp you mention, let's say it has 70 watts into 6 Ohms. Lintons have an average of 85 dB sensitivity into 6 Ohms, (roughly). This means that with my 90 dB sensitive speakers I would need 20 watts (thereabouts) to match it and 20 watts , ...no way I would have that little power.:oops: At least 30 watts I have with them, which would equate to 90 amp watts for the Linton speakers.



By the way. What you think you hear about the Yamaha amp you were listening to that was too bright for me was probably mostly imagination from your side.
(said in a friendly diplomatic tone)
 
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AdrenalinH

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Thank you for the video, it was very informative.
The Marantz amp you mention, let's say it has 70 watts into 6 Ohms. Lintons have an average of 85 dB sensitivity into 6 Ohms, (roughly). This means that with my 90 dB sensitive speakers I would need 20 watts (thereabouts) to match it and 20 watts , ...no way I would have that little power.:oops: At least 30 watts I have with them, which would equate to 90 amp watts for the Linton speakers.

Can you please point me to some basic knowledge article, or elaborate why you need "need 20 watts to match 90 dB". I am still new to this. Also on Lintons' spec it is said the recommended amplifier power is from 25-200W. I found quite good reviews on lamp Willsenton R8, but its output power is rather small:

25W+25W (RMS triode working state)
45W+45W (RMS ultra-linear working state) (KT88)
25W+25W (RMS triode working state)
40W+40W (RMS ultra-linear working state) (EL34)

To sum up:
1. What is the recommended power output for the speaker? In my case for Lintons
2. In case of the lamp amplifiers, do I need extra equipment to drive the speakers?
3. If I go with the power amp like AUDIOPHONICS MPA-S250NC RCA do do I need extra equipment to drive the speakers? Or just go with all-in-one? AUDIOPHONICS DAW-S250NC?

The topic slightly derided into the noob's territory, but I will appreciate your help. Also
probably mostly imagination from your side.
May be you are right and I need to try to listen as in video above :) I am open for learning new things
 

DanielT

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Thank you for the video, it was very informative.


Can you please point me to some basic knowledge article, or elaborate why you need "need 20 watts to match 90 dB". I am still new to this. Also on Lintons' spec it is said the recommended amplifier power is from 25-200W.
Because difference in dB is a logarithmic scale.
Cause-Effect-Perception.gif

Keep in mind that an additional speaker gives 3 dB more in sensitivity.


To sum up:
1. What is the recommended power output for the speaker? In my case for Lintons
2. In case of the lamp amplifiers, do I need extra equipment to drive the speakers?
3. If I go with the power amp like AUDIOPHONICS MPA-S250NC RCA do do I need extra equipment to drive the speakers? Or just go with all-in-one? AUDIOPHONICS DAW-S250NC?

The topic slightly derided into the noob's territory, but I will appreciate your help. Also

May be you are right and I need to try to listen as in video above :) I am open for learning new things
Willsenton R8 has volume control. With AUDIOPHONICS MPA-S250NC RCA, you must add one in that case, for example via a DAC that has volume control. AUDIOPHONICS MPA-S250NC RCA has only one input. Keep that in mind in case you need, or want, more sources.

How much power is needed depends on how and what kind of music you listen to. If you only listen to relatively low volume, let's say a maximum of 65 dB, with music that is fairly undynamic, you don't need many watts. You can calculate this yourself:
(distances longer than two meters do not need to be entered):

 

AdrenalinH

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Wow, thank you @DanielT, that links really helped and now I better understand the subject :) I have one more question on lamp amp, like Willsenton R8. It power output looks low, does it mean that it essentially can be used for not very load listening, unless you add extra amp for it?

And the second question, if I go for like 250W amp, where speakers show desired range till 200W, will be it considered as a bad practice?
 

DanielT

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Wow, thank you @DanielT, that links really helped and now I better understand the subject :) I have one more question on lamp amp, like Willsenton R8. It power output looks low, does it mean that it essentially can be used for not very load listening, unless you add extra amp for it?

And the second question, if I go for like 250W amp, where speakers show desired range till 200W, will be it considered as a bad practice?
The Willsenton R8 is a tube amplifier, which has a vacuum tube that handles its amplification. They light up if that's what you mean by lamp amp? My advice don't say that. It's just confusing and it probably pisses off the hardcore tube enthusiasts if you say it (which in itself is a reason for you to keep saying lamp amp , ha ha :cool:)

You can read about tube amps here. By the way, what is said in the Wikipedia article about high quality stereo amplifiers is not true. It is the opposite.

A valve amplifier or tube amplifier is a type of electronic amplifier that uses vacuum tubes to increase the amplitude or power of a signal. Low to medium power valve amplifiers for frequencies below the microwaves were largely replaced by solid state amplifiers in the 1960s and 1970s. Valve amplifiers can be used for applications such as guitar amplifiers, satellite transponders such as DirecTV and GPS, high quality stereo amplifiers, military applications (such as radar) and very high power radio and UHF television transmitters.


A 250W amp coupled with speakers that should not be fed with more than 200W is nemas problemas. Do not turn the power up to maximum and keep it at that position for a long time on the amplifier.:)
 

ZolaIII

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The Willsenton R8 is a tube amplifier, which has a vacuum tube that handles its amplification. They light up if that's what you mean by lamp amp? My advice don't say that. It's just confusing and it probably pisses off the hardcore tube enthusiasts if you say it (which in itself is a reason for you to keep saying lamp amp , ha ha :cool:)

You can read about tube amps here. By the way, what is said in the Wikipedia article about high quality stereo amplifiers is not true. It is the opposite.

A valve amplifier or tube amplifier is a type of electronic amplifier that uses vacuum tubes to increase the amplitude or power of a signal. Low to medium power valve amplifiers for frequencies below the microwaves were largely replaced by solid state amplifiers in the 1960s and 1970s. Valve amplifiers can be used for applications such as guitar amplifiers, satellite transponders such as DirecTV and GPS, high quality stereo amplifiers, military applications (such as radar) and very high power radio and UHF television transmitters.


A 250W amp coupled with speakers that should not be fed with more than 200W is nemas problemas. Do not turn the power up to maximum and keep it at that position for a long time on the amplifier.:)
Tubes had their place in history so do their development and use practices (to a pentode with separate isolated drains for the purpose). There were pasive stages semi PEQ vocal EQ's in 60's tube powered to give mear 5 mV boots. You have very good emulators (VST) of such today. For power amplifier I would stil use G class over H (precise regulated and with voltage pump both). +50 to 200W is less than 1 dB. You won't drive your speakers till the world end, when they start to compress and you hear it (either because amp or drivers had enough) hopefully you will dial it down or at least stop. For those stubborn good modern amp's have area of protection mechanisms to protect it self and if you blow out tweater or melt it it's on your own (that amount of... Is hard to explain). Still accidents do happen.
 

AdrenalinH

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A 250W amp coupled with speakers that should not be fed with more than 200W is nemas problemas. Do not turn the power up to maximum and keep it at that position for a long time on the amplifier.:)
Thank you very much once again. I think I now have now better understanding on what I need :)
 

DanielT

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Tubes had their place in history so do their development and use practices (to a pentode with separate isolated drains for the purpose). There were pasive stages semi PEQ vocal EQ's in 60's tube powered to give mear 5 mV boots. You have very good emulators (VST) of such today. For power amplifier I would stil use G class over H (precise regulated and with voltage pump both). +50 to 200W is less than 1 dB. You won't drive your speakers till the world end, when they start to compress and you hear it (either because amp or drivers had enough) hopefully you will dial it down or at least stop. For those stubborn good modern amp's have area of protection mechanisms to protect it self and if you blow out tweater or melt it it's on your own (that amount of... Is hard to explain). Still accidents do happen.
Even today. I think this is really cool::D
Screenshot_2024-01-30_124653.jpg


 

ZolaIII

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DanielT

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Thank you very much once again. I think I now have now better understanding on what I need :)
I'm curious, why are you considering a tube amplifier? What do you think it will bring to you? Appearance, looks with tubes that shine, I can understand.:)
Expensive but very practical unnecessary buys, those who buy just for the looks, the brand and so on (regarding everything, not just HiFi stuff) there I understand the purchase motivation but beyond that?

Performance wise in the case of tube amps.Do you consider the objective performance factor when considering a tube amp? Do you weigh the $ in relation to the power you get with tube amps?
 

AdrenalinH

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I'm curious, why are you considering a tube amplifier? What do you think it will bring to you? Appearance, looks with tubes that shine, I can understand.:)
Expensive but very practical unnecessary buys, those who buy just for the looks, the brand and so on (regarding everything, not just HiFi stuff) there I understand the purchase motivation but beyond that?

Performance wise in the case of tube amps.Do you consider the objective performance factor when considering a tube amp? Do you weigh the $ in relation to the power you get with tube amps?
That's a fair question. I think the looks and feels mainly:), and also I didn't know much about them till yesterday, except the cool looks and low power output xD.

It is the reason I still consider Leak 230, as well as I don't need much power at the moment. I also have turntable for as a source, so phono input is a must. I have a fireplace and good collection of whisky... Listening to music is kinda a small ritual for me :cool:. And that is why I am willing to add a bit extra $ for aluminum handles rather than plastic ones, but I still consider if the product is worth the money as well as $ per watt (the amp spreadsheet really helped)
 
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DanielT

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That's a fair question. I think the looks and feels mainly:), and also I didn't know much about them till yesterday, except the cool looks and low power output xD.

It is the reason I still consider Leak 230, as well as I don't need much power at the moment. I also have turntable for as a source, so phono input is a must. I have a fireplace and good collection of whisky... Listening to music is kinda a small ritual for me :cool:. And that is why I am willing to add a bit extra $ for aluminum handles rather than plastic ones, but I still consider if the product is worth the money as well as $ per watt (the amp spreadsheet really helped)
I'll make it easy for you now. If you like the looks of it, buy the Leak 230. It has what you need (phono input for example. Willsenton R8 does not have phono input) and you will not regret it in terms of the Leak 230s performance (it has been bench tested by Stereophile, with good test results).

Leak 230 has power you need for your Lintons. And the Leak 230 amp does well when you're sitting by your fire with a nice glass of whiskey in hand.;):)
 
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AdrenalinH

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I'll make it easy for you now. If you like the looks of it, buy the Leak 230. I
Thanks a lot, for the time and solid answers. I was a bit overwhelmed with the options, but you really helped me:cool:
 
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