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Genelec 8010A Powered Studio Monitor Review

Budget is around 500€ but I am willing to buy used
I'm located in Germany
I don't really have a need to go really deep
No size constraints
I would like a satellite filter so I can easily avoid sending the 8010s low frequencies
KRK has three subs with a crossover which you can switch between four frequencies, namely the S8.4, S10.4, and S12.4

Compared to your ESI with its fixed 100Hz crossover frequency, that flexibility may allow you to achieve a better subwoofer integration.

Though it should be noted that the available crossover frequencies are different for each model.
The S12.4 for example has its highest crossover frequency at 80Hz, which may already be too low to work well with the 8010a.

The S10.4 and S8.4 can go up to 90 and 100Hz, respectively.

As always, a measurement microphone and room correction is highly recommended.
 
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I wonder how close you could place these speakers. Would distances under 0.3 meters be too close? A rooms acoustics would be much less influential at such a close distance
 
I wonder how close you could place these speakers. Would distances under 0.3 meters be too close? A rooms acoustics would be much less influential at such a close distance
If you are that close to them you might hear the hiss, even with the -10db switch engaged.
 
Hope Amir will review the Genelec 8020d, for me was a great value given its size.

I had the opportunity of listening the 3 entry level Genelecs, 8010, 8020 and 8030 at my little listening room and the 8020 had the best response.

Will be also interesting given that is one of the most successful 4 inch speaker on home desktop setups for studio. I have no measurements to offer but all sound perfectly clean and even, bass doesn’t go deep as logically expected but is there and no distortion was found.

I didn’t love 8010, it has an uncontrolled bass and as Amir found was impossible to me to find an EQ to flat those region without shortening the FQ interval
 
I recently compared my 8010's (used as atmos speakers) to my 8350 LCR speakers. Both sets of speakers were crossed over at 120hz with 24db slopes. The SPL when crossed at 120hz was more than enough for casual and serious music listening, even at 2.4m away. For anyone doubting the SPL for nearfield use, don't! I think they require a sub in all situations, even nearfield, if you want to listen loud, but if you listen at a low level, one could probably get away without a sub, although there is no low-bass whatsoever from these monitors (and why should there be, they are TINY). I also found the bass (when running full-range) a little 'tubby' for lack of a better word. The bass they produce is not of a high quality and quite muddy (I attribute this to the very high bass distortion). They are a very impressive monitor for the size and the money, but there isn't much of a contest when compared AB to their much bigger brother.
IMG_2035.jpg
 
IMV they are not capable to deliver the clean SPL (even with sub) required for professional mastering in nearfield.
Humm, they are designed to really close distances : I had at home months ago and now thinking about rebuying them for desktop use.

At 60-70 cm they deliver comfortably the SPL you need, just a matter of environment. The only issue I noticed is the warm color of the monitors, think it will improve with subwoofer as they received an 8 score
 
I recently compared my 8010's (used as atmos speakers) to my 8350 LCR speakers. Both sets of speakers were crossed over at 120hz with 24db slopes. The SPL when crossed at 120hz was more than enough for casual and serious music listening, even at 2.4m away. For anyone doubting the SPL for nearfield use, don't! I think they require a sub in all situations, even nearfield, if you want to listen loud, but if you listen at a low level, one could probably get away without a sub, although there is no low-bass whatsoever from these monitors (and why should there be, they are TINY). I also found the bass (when running full-range) a little 'tubby' for lack of a better word. The bass they produce is not of a high quality and quite muddy (I attribute this to the very high bass distortion). They are a very impressive monitor for the size and the money, but there isn't much of a contest when compared AB to their much bigger brother.
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I found bizarre the bass also, I reduced with dip switches but still sounded distorted. Think will improve a lot with a sub
 
I know that I once did go down the rabbit hole (of search results) until I found a result about the three hidden trim pots sitting to the right of the dip switches.

My pair of 8010a's is not perfectly level-matched. One is louder than the other, the stereo center noticably shifts to the side of the louder speaker. I temporarily fixed it for home listening with a pan filter in CamillaDSP, but am not satisfied: in other use cases, I would have to adjust them using a mixer and matching the level by guessing.

But I do have a measurement microphone and the ability to perfectly match them, if there was an gain potentiometer. Which there is not, unlike the bigger models. This is kind of annoying.

Can someone help me out where I can find an explenation what the three slit-drive trim pots to the right of the dip switches each do? I would prefer not to have find out trial and error. I like the speakers a lot.

8010_back.jpg
 
I wouldn't expect anyone to know for sure. I expect they're for fine-tuning and matching as units are tested during manufacture.

My recommendation would be that if you think they're likely to help (I suspect one of them will), measure before, adjust one at a time, take before/after measurements and document carefully what adjustments you make so that you can return to the starting point.
 
I found an explanation in an 8020B repair thread:

@davidperrenoud explains:
Each Genelec speaker is calibrated in factory. The 3 calibration potentiometers correspond to:
  1. B-CAL
  2. T-CAL
  3. EHF-CAL

1724779277083.png


Turn the potentiometers a few times until both speakers match and you have a "calibrated" speaker!

1724779339778.png

They created a circuit diagram for the complete board of the 8020B and although the 8010A will probably differ somewhat, the general priciple of operation is probably shared between the models. Looking at the back of the speaker the potentiometer at the left affects the level of the low frequency driver. The potentiometer in the middle controls the level of the high frequency driver; and the potentiometer at the right controls the level of the high frequency driver in the very high frequencies. I attached the complete cirquit diagram which David provided in an PDF document for future reference that includes several pages, in which is also revealed the position of the right potentiometer, not shown in the images from the original post.

Will try next week.
 

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They are just screws, to dismount the back panel with dip switches.

Don’t you have a balance setting in your computer or you AVR?

You can adjust digitally the signal power sent to each speaker and calibrate with your mic.
No, they are not screws. They are factory calibration trimmers as explained in the previous post. User should not touch these as adjustment requires accurate measurement capability and all Genelec loudspeakers are factory calibrated. If there is a significant level difference between two monitors of the same kind, it is typically caused by the input level difference (source).
 
No, they are not screws. They are factory calibration trimmers as explained in the previous post. User should not touch these as adjustment requires accurate measurement capability and all Genelec loudspeakers are factory calibrated. If there is a significant level difference between two monitors of the same kind, it is typically caused by the input level difference (source).
Yes, thanks for your answer: I deleted my post as soon as I realized, it should be just when you were writing. It was not explained on the user guide.

I have a pair of G Three and have also 3 screws in the dip switch console, but always thought were to fix the piece.
 
I can hear they are accurate and fast, which is nice. But it's obvious the woofers are just too small and it will never produce a satisfying sound. I am sure a sub could help but figured I had may as well just get the 8030c which I am sure won't have that issue but still have its speed and accuracy
 
I can hear they are accurate and fast, which is nice. But it's obvious the woofers are just too small and it will never produce a satisfying sound. I am sure a sub could help but figured I had may as well just get the 8030c which I am sure won't have that issue but still have its speed and accuracy
To be fair, it has been said by myself and others many times over on this thread, it’s even in the review - this speaker does not produce bass. It absolutely needs a subwoofer and high pass filter or it needs to be used at a very low level.

Once you implement a proper HP/LP with a subwoofer, these monitors really sound great. I have had success with 120hz LR4 HP with these. They can get quite loud when this is in place. With an 80hz LR4 the subwoofer becomes a little less noticeable, but the monitors begin to struggle at a lower overall volume than before. They are the only Genelec’s I have owned where they truly sound awful before the limiter kicks in. The others seem to distort much less before limiting.

With that said, the 8030c is a nice step up with adequate (NF) bass output too.
 
I can hear they are accurate and fast, which is nice. But it's obvious the woofers are just too small and it will never produce a satisfying sound. I am sure a sub could help but figured I had may as well just get the 8030c which I am sure won't have that issue but still have its speed and accuracy

8030c are much more capables in the low end area, but you might also need a sub if you raise the level up, depending on your taste.

I personnally choose a pair of 8010 + subwoofer, rather than a pair of 8030.
Mostly because I don't have much space on my desktop. But also because 8010 + sub was still cheaper than a pair 8030.
 
I use the 8010 in my sleeping room, Europe, brick walls (more room gain than U.S.), on the shelf, close to the wall. I like what they do there.

I prefer 8030c over 8010a +sub and would happily use them as my main speakers.
 
8030c are much more capables in the low end area, but you might also need a sub if you raise the level up, depending on your taste.

I personnally choose a pair of 8010 + subwoofer, rather than a pair of 8030.
Mostly because I don't have much space on my desktop. But also because 8010 + sub was still cheaper than a pair 8030.
They crack under high volume, port distortion sounds as a helicopter over 70-80 dB even at 100 Hz.

Better use 8030C + subwoofer, more expensive but more versatile.

8010 are exclusively near near field...
 
My pair of 8010a's is not perfectly level-matched. One is louder than the other, the stereo center noticably shifts to the side of the louder speaker. I temporarily fixed it for home listening with a pan filter in CamillaDSP [...].

8010-1.jpg

8010-2.jpg

I need to correct myself. My pair of 8010A's is perfectly level-matched. It was the room interference of one speaker sitting in a corner, the other not, which made the stereo center shift. Using a DSP to pan is a feasible solution, and I wouldn't touch the trim pots at the backs, as there is no need.

What a quality product. Thanks, Genelec!

[Edit: The measurements were done with the top of the woofer's rim as reference point, at ca. 50 cm distance, gated. The microphone was sitting below the tweeter, and on its axis the high frequencies would be less attenuated.]
 
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