tjcinnamon
Addicted to Fun and Learning
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22’ wide by 10’ deep by 7’ highWhat a rabbit hole to go down. What size room do you have the front wides in?
22’ wide by 10’ deep by 7’ highWhat a rabbit hole to go down. What size room do you have the front wides in?
22’ wide by 10’ deep by 7’ high
Hmm. Likely not needed but I’m not sure.Yeah I'm working with a 15' by 11' by 8' room which is just not long enough to make front wides work I don't think. The LR are 8' away from my side surrounds so any front wide would be only 4' away from both which probably wouldn't work well right?
Here is what I want to build with ART in mind: A riser for our living room with large enough subwoofers to cope with the high demands (compression) of ART correction. All woofers will fire into the rear and side walls.
Back sub: 4x 15"
Corner left sub 2x 21"
Corner right sub 2x 21"
Side right sub 2x 15" (connects with right surround channel under 150Hz)
Side left sub 2x 15" (connects with left surround channel under 150Hz)
The build will be sturdy so I have no fear that resonances will occur.
The front subs will be 4x 18" and the LCR speakers will also be large enough for ART support.
Edit: In total I'll have 9 ART support channels down to 30Hz
My question is about the space that should be kept between the subs and the wall? I'll keep a large enough distance avoid coupling but what about resonances? I'm thinking of creating a baffle with a 10° slope?
Seems overkill. You could likely get 1 sealed 12” sub for support duty and pretty much max out its usefulness.Here is what I want to build with ART in mind: A riser for our living room with large enough subwoofers to cope with the high demands (compression) of ART correction. All woofers will fire into the rear and side walls.
Back sub: 4x 15"
Corner left sub 2x 21"
Corner right sub 2x 21"
Side right sub 2x 15" (connects with right surround channel under 150Hz)
Side left sub 2x 15" (connects with left surround channel under 150Hz)
The build will be sturdy so I have no fear that resonances will occur.
The front subs will be 4x 18" and the LCR speakers will also be large enough for ART support.
Edit: In total I'll have 9 ART support channels down to 30Hz
My question is about the space that should be kept between the subs and the wall? I'll keep a large enough distance avoid coupling but what about resonances? I'm thinking of creating a baffle with a 10° slope?
Is this for a cinema for a military base or something?
Like i really be considering if my plans to extend my two 12 inch to four 12 inch subs an overkill in a domestic setting.
Seems overkill. You could likely get 1 sealed 12” sub for support duty and pretty much max out its usefulness.
I’ll be using 2 SVS3000 micros (wired) and they are stable to 30Hz especially at the lower volumes ART is looking for.
Edit: That said, I get the fun factor of building something wild. If you are looking for tactile response, I can promise that provides more value than a reduction in decay times. Tactile nearfield was a game changer.
How do you make it so DLBC doesn’t turn down your subs. It seems it tries to keep it close in volume to the mains and I like to have Tactile Response. The subs are so hot because they are close to the mic. Dirac really wants to lower them even if I “EQ” them to the max of +12dB.
I already use the 4x 21" subs behind me and 4x 15" in front with DLBC and it is very nice to have a system that doesn't even show the slightest sign of compression and distortion down to 15Hz.
Integrating them into a riser is the perfect way to hide all equipment and make it a stealth/sleeper home cinema.
I think I figured it out. It I can lower the mains with the custom curve and if I up the EQ, I can get it where I like itHow do you make it so DLBC doesn’t turn down your subs. It seems it tries to keep it close in volume to the mains and I like to have Tactile Response. The subs are so hot because they are close to the mic. Dirac really wants to lower them even if I “EQ” them to the max of +12dB.
In my denon, once DLBC is engaged, it won’t allow adjusting the gain on the subs.
That's a good workaround.I think I figured it out. It I can lower the mains with the custom curve and if I up the EQ, I can get it where I like it
I have MQX as well as Dirac. I loved MQX because of Dynamic EQ and the flexibility. I'm prepping for ART, so I'm getting used to the inflexibility of Dirac. For the TR I really have to avoid EQ'ing the subs within Dirac because I sum 4 subs via MiniDSP where 2 which are nearfield and those aren't eq'd, I just adjust the delay; the other 2 subs are solely to smooth the response. The TR ones, have a low-pass at 60Hz because it doesn't impact TR and just makes it harder to calibrate.That's a good workaround.
Here I've disabled all EQ and I get more deep and tactile bass than ever I could wish for. I've even dialed down the gain controls on my Crown XLS2502 one notch as it get too much at times.
Look at the blue Dirac DLBC REW measurement stereo with subs. Red is standard MultEQ-X and green is MultEQ-X after several hours of tweaking. I've not yet tried the latest MultEQ-X but will do so when the riser is ready.
I have MQX as well as Dirac. I loved MQX because of Dynamic EQ and the flexibility. I'm prepping for ART, so I'm getting used to the inflexibility of Dirac. For the TR I really have to avoid EQ'ing the subs within Dirac because I sum 4 subs via MiniDSP where 2 which are nearfield and those aren't eq'd, I just adjust the delay; the other 2 subs are solely to smooth the response. The TR ones, have a low-pass at 60Hz because it doesn't impact TR and just makes it harder to calibrate.
So with Dirac, what I'll have to do to leverage ART which will require it to EQ the subs, will be to create a custom curve that follows the curve shown on the screen then it won't apply much EQ to it but will still factor it in for ART.
So it's gonna take a lot of experimenting to get it where I want it. My mains are actually are the speaker that can dig the deepest in my system because they are ported. They are dual 10's per speaker and are flat to 23Hz. Whereas my sealed DIY Dayton HO/HF are on bridged crowns but because they are sealed they do go as deep but summing them they get deep in aggregate.
Turning on DEQ will probably fix that bass cut for you. It's useful to measure with DEQ off and on to see what it's doing. One of the annoyances I find with Audyssey is that there are all sorts of poorly documented knobs and settings that have a big impact: e.g. Turn off MRC, turn on DEQ, enable Headroom Expansion.I've used MultEQ-X right from the start with 4 subs and I always had problems with bass being cut 10 - 15dB as you can see in the red line in the graph and it took me more than an hour to get it to the green line. I've also never used DEQ. When the riser is done, I'll calibrate with MultEQ-X on preset 1.
I was thinking going MiniDSP with my previous Pioneer AVR but when I read the news about the new Denon series with 4 sub outs, I let go of the idea. When the riser is finished, I'll use 4x or 5x Crown XLS2502 in bridge mode straight from the Denon to feed each separate pair of subs.
To answer my own question, I found out that you cannot use a single speaker as just a support speaker; it will be used as a normal speaker as well. If I understood correctly, I could add some wide or height surrounds in my current 5.0 system, and there would probably be very little sound as normal program material most of the time, but I could selectively use these speakers at a proper adjustable level. This was good news.Sort of an off-the-wall question here. I have a 5.0 system, using a Denon AVR-x4800h, and am anxiously awaiting Dirac ART. I can't add any more speakers for more surround due to the wife's acceptance factor and the layout of the living room. I can however, add some "hidden" speakers, like behind the TV, next to the couch, behind a chair. I'll probably add a sub this way for ART, even though I don't "need" one due to my large front L/R speakers.
Does anybody know if ART would allow hooking up extra speakers, but they only output the correction signals, and not be used for the "normal" sound? That way, I can better use ART, as I've heard the more speakers, the better.
One thing to note about this is while you can’t add an a speaker that is only a support speaker, you can add more speakers to the speaker layout. For example, if you have a 5.0 system, you could add height speakers or front wide speakers to the layout…answer my own question, I found out that you cannot use a single speaker as just a support speaker; it will be used as a normal speaker as well. If I understood correctly, I could add some wide or height surrounds in my current 5.0 system, and there would probably be very little sound as normal program material most of the time, but I could selectively use these speakers at a proper adjustable level. This was good news.