Wondering what the TV optical output would deliver?
I think optical SPDIF is limited to Dolby Digital 5.1 (I.e. can't do lossless TrueHD or DTS HD Master Audio), so it is better to use HDMI eARC if possible.Wondering what the TV optical output would deliver?
I second this.
No need for an expensive player these days. You can send CD audio from a cheap player via digital either to your AVR (hdmi) or via one of your existing DACs (optical) to your stereo system. The digital connection will be effectively totally lossless. I think you may have been becoming confused by looking at measurements for the analogue audio outputs of CD players - these all become irrelevant if using a digital output.
Personally I'd ditch the separate stereo and also run CD through the AVR in order to benefit from room EQ and bass management. (I think the drop in SINAD is worth it, others may not agree).
The same is pretty much true for video. There is not much point in paying extra for the video processing in an expensive player these days. The processing in your TV is likely to be as good and if you don't know what you are doing with tone mapping you can really mess up your colour calibration. All of the signals sent to your TV will end up going through its internal processing anyway, so why duplicate this at the player end?
So, I'm sort of suggesting that you could simplify your system quite a bit, sell a bunch of stuff then invest that into the main parts. I.e. HDMI 2.1 TV and AVR, main speakers, subs and a cheaper universal disc player. (I dont think the AVM 70 has HDMI 2.1 by the way).
I understand that you may already be quite far along a different road, so feel free to ignore the above. I'm just offering some food for thought and trying to save you from spending in an area that I think is unlikely to yield much improvement in quality.
I think it does support hdmi 2.1, it has 4k/120 capability. I maybe wrong, but the ps5 and new xbox tout that 4k/120 over 2.1, so I think it is the same.I second this.
No need for an expensive player these days. You can send CD audio from a cheap player via digital either to your AVR (hdmi) or via one of your existing DACs (optical) to your stereo system. The digital connection will be effectively totally lossless. I think you may have been becoming confused by looking at measurements for the analogue audio outputs of CD players - these all become irrelevant if using a digital output.
Personally I'd ditch the separate stereo and also run CD through the AVR in order to benefit from room EQ and bass management. (I think the drop in SINAD is worth it, others may not agree).
The same is pretty much true for video. There is not much point in paying extra for the video processing in an expensive player these days. The processing in your TV is likely to be as good, and if you don't know what you are doing with tone mapping you can really mess up your colour calibration. All of the signals sent to your TV will end up going through its internal processing anyway, so why duplicate this at the player end?
So, I'm sort of suggesting that you could simplify your system quite a bit, sell a bunch of stuff then invest that into the main parts. I.e. HDMI 2.1 TV and AVR, main speakers, subs and a cheaper universal disc player. (I dont think the AVM 70 has HDMI 2.1 by the way).
I understand that you may already be quite far along a different road, so feel free to ignore the above. I'm just offering some food for thought and trying to save you from spending in an area that I think is unlikely to yield much improvement in quality.
What media on a disc does 4K/120?If not what player does do 4k/120?
Yes, only 4k 120Hz content I'm aware of is gaming.What media on a disc does 4K/120?
I think it does support hdmi 2.1, it has 4k/120 capability. I maybe wrong, but the ps5 and new xbox tout that 4k/120 over 2.1, so I think it is the same.
No clue, that's why I asked.What media on a disc does 4K/120?
Definitely less noticeable. I have the x940E which does 1,184 cd/m² HDR real scene and I still thing it’s helpful. Sony clips for content above what it can display. If yours is a Sony, then 1300-4000 nits is displayed identically and HDR optimizer can help.Damn... this is actually even more bad news. Cause my TV is super bright and it's "HDR Real Scene Peak Brightness" is 1287 nits. So the HDR optimizer according to the reviewer is basically far less noticeable with bright tvs
I meant for the CD playback to the outboard DAC. I guess it wouldn’t matter since It would be an optical connection from the player or TV and would be one cable either way.I think optical SPDIF is limited to Dolby Digital 5.1 (I.e. can't do lossless TrueHD or DTS HD Master Audio), so it is better to use HDMI eARC if possible.
Isn't the 820 better than the 450? or the 450 has no dolby vision? think the 820 would be better no clue what the future holds.Definitely less noticeable. I have the x940E which does 1,184 cd/m² HDR real scene and I still thing it’s helpful. Sony clips for content above what it can display. If yours is a Sony, then 1300-4000 nits is displayed identically and HDR optimizer can help.
If you have a Samsung, you don’t need Dolby Vision. I don’t know how Samsung tone maps in that region. But then the Sony players are good because you don’t need Dolby vision and gives you SACD playback. The Panasonic UB-450 gives you cheap options too.
Sorry, will have to let other members advise on this I've not been checking the reviews on these but basically any cheap player will likely do. Just pick one that you like the interface for.No actual cd player/transport suggestions? like specific models
Yes, could be an option, especially if the universal disk player lacks optical out and you really want an external DAC. Edit: you may need to check compatibility (I know for example that my TV cannot pass-through DTS audio).I meant for the CD playback to the outboard DAC. I guess it wouldn’t matter since It would be an optical connection from the player or TV and would be one cable either way.
I thought others might disagree! As I said I'd probably just connect as follows....Remember to use the analog input from your DAC to the analog in on the Marantz and use Pure Direct if you Want a pure analog signal. (You’ll lose room correction and subwoofer integration though)
Yes, sorry, that is what I'm suggesting! Of course it may not be the way you want to go.Hmmmm @Laserjock 's last comment just made me realize maybe what you guys are saying......... are you suggesting to just get any bd player with digital out and then feed my dac and basically making the analog outs worthless on the 9000?????
LOL sorry that just shined on me, wasn't sure if that is the point
Hmmmm, but now doesn't that go back to the same issue I am having for the transport? what's the internal clock on source, is it going to produce low jitter?Sorry, will have to let other members advise on this I've not been checking the reviews on these but basically any cheap player will likely do. Just pick one that you like the interface for.
Yes, could be an option, especially if the universal disk player lacks optical out and you really want an external DAC.
I thought others might disagree! As I said I'd probably just connect as follows....
Player >hdmi> AVR >hdmi> TV
(Use the AVR internal DAC even for CD, and take advantage of EQ). Up to the OP which way they prefer - I think their first thoughts were more along the external DAC method.
Yes, sorry, that is what I'm suggesting! Of course it may not be the way you want to go.
Try the 820? You’ll probably be more than satisfiedHmmmm, but now doesn't that go back to the same issue I am having for the transport? what's the internal clock on source, is it going to produce low jitter?
That would probably change things to, I know you guys will hate this but the 1100es or 820 lol
Hmmmm, but now doesn't that go back to the same issue I am having for the transport? what's the internal clock on source, is it going to produce low jitter?
Irrationality tells me I should buy both
I was thinking you were talking about the Sony 800Irrationality tells me I should buy both