you stated "People prefer". You need to back up your claim with data from reputable sources, otherwise it's just hokum
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What Power amplifier to get for 700$ ?
- Thread starter COOKIE POWER
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Just type FLAC vs MP3 on google. Then read all the result carefully. After that, you come back here, what did you find?
As there are some 226 000 000 premium Spotify subscribers as of Q3 23 (https://www.statista.com/statistics/244995/number-of-paying-spotify-subscribers/) and around 200 000 Qobuz subscribers as of Q3 19 (https://variety.com/2019/music/news...roads-six-months-after-u-s-launch-1203302742/), I would say that “people” look to prefer to listen to Spotify at a ratio of roughly 1000:1.
226 million subscribers then goes bankrupt.
Have you find the result of FLAC vs MP3?
to be fair Spotify was a successful startup, their strengths are selections of music, convenience of uses, "cool" factor etc.
but I tried Spotify and Tidal and for the best of effort could not hear a difference, so I don't even bother.
Bob from Florida
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If you can swing a bit more money, the Schiit Vidar @ $799 would be quite sufficient.
ZolaIII
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Eventually a well trained listener with perfect hearing and very good headphones on real well made masters and listening very loud and that's for 24 bit wide band range. But neither you want to listen like that nor 3% of materials available get in that category and difference is not always for better.
Back to the topic check for Yamaha A-S 70x/80x line if you want very good (not state of art) power amplifier that will serve you for very long time. As you are going to build speakers avoid low impedance deeping and hard angle passing phase/impedance driver's, pick woffer's with low Fs and keep it simple regarding enclosure (sealed).
"SoundBlab": gotta love it. 
However a full-range driver is a hard sell for me because almost always there are compromises, e.g. jagged FR or inconsistent dispersion across the FR spectrum -- a big no-no according to Dr. Toole.
Be that as it may, for that 2-way you're talking about sensitivity is 86dB which is more-or-less average; power requirement will depend on your listening room, how it's furnished, and you preferred listening volumes.
The Mark Audio driver has relatively smooth impedance spectrum, though a bit on the high side at 9 ohms @ 1kHz: shouldn't be a problem for any decent amp.
The Audiophonics based on the NCore NC252MP should do the job for you extremely well. I had the same module in a VTV amp and it was excellent. Today I have VTV stereo with the Purifi 1ET400A modules but I can't say there is any practical improvement over the NCore NC252MP.
However a full-range driver is a hard sell for me because almost always there are compromises, e.g. jagged FR or inconsistent dispersion across the FR spectrum -- a big no-no according to Dr. Toole.Be that as it may, for that 2-way you're talking about sensitivity is 86dB which is more-or-less average; power requirement will depend on your listening room, how it's furnished, and you preferred listening volumes.
The Mark Audio driver has relatively smooth impedance spectrum, though a bit on the high side at 9 ohms @ 1kHz: shouldn't be a problem for any decent amp.
The Audiophonics based on the NCore NC252MP should do the job for you extremely well. I had the same module in a VTV amp and it was excellent. Today I have VTV stereo with the Purifi 1ET400A modules but I can't say there is any practical improvement over the NCore NC252MP.
Nice speakers there COOKIE! I'd like to hear that MarkAudio driver.
Could you post a pic of them?
Cant go wrong with the HYPEX NC252MP. For you speakers that's what i personally would have Started with.
A few questions that could get you some more relevant responses:
1. What did you have prior to the FOSI? , How did it compare?
2. Did you consider getting a second FOSI v3 to have one for each speaker?
3. With them DYI speakers i assume you have a decent calibration mic. Could you post a graph of the frequency response at main listening position?
4. What is your source(preamp/player/stream/musicfiles/ect... and do you use any DSP?
Please specify the methodology.
D
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Your DIY speakers as shown have a 86db sensitivity which is very low.
I have a Fosi TB10D with 32V/5A Power Adapter connected to some old 15" JBLs and with 96db sensitivity and as far as volume goes, for stereo, this blows away my 100wpc Pioneer VSX-90 amp with JBL Studio towers with 90db sensitivity.
If I had $700 to send on my Fosi system in my office, I would buy much more sensitive speakers or find a way to improve the DIY speakers sensitivity. My goal, when the wife allows me, would be to pair the FOSI with a pair of CV SL-15s
Alternatively, I would DIY a passive sub and get a Fosi Audio BT30D PRO 165W×2+350W (50wpc x 2 + 100wpc sub). I actually bought a BT30D PRO to turn an old JBL sub/satellite system with blown plate amp into something useable again.
I have a Fosi TB10D with 32V/5A Power Adapter connected to some old 15" JBLs and with 96db sensitivity and as far as volume goes, for stereo, this blows away my 100wpc Pioneer VSX-90 amp with JBL Studio towers with 90db sensitivity.
If I had $700 to send on my Fosi system in my office, I would buy much more sensitive speakers or find a way to improve the DIY speakers sensitivity. My goal, when the wife allows me, would be to pair the FOSI with a pair of CV SL-15s
Alternatively, I would DIY a passive sub and get a Fosi Audio BT30D PRO 165W×2+350W (50wpc x 2 + 100wpc sub). I actually bought a BT30D PRO to turn an old JBL sub/satellite system with blown plate amp into something useable again.
OP
COOKIE POWER
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I had marantz mcr 502(i bought it used and it died after couple years thx god i allready had fossi on the way) and Monitor Audio Bronze 2.
Fosi is is better but but not by much, most noticable difference was bass , more punchy and controlled.
I dont have any calibration mic (i intend to buy one when i go for mark audio moap 7.2 it fits in same hole as chr 70), but i can say its much better than Bronze 2.
I dont have pictures of them finished (painting them atm), but i have picture of them just assembled.
For some reason i really want to try something in price range of 400-700 and another fosi v3 sounds to me like just little bit better :/
My source is SMSL C200 and i dont thik i will change it
I dont need sub with these speakers they have 6,5" subwoofer on side wich is plenty for me.
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2 much for me T_TIf you can swing a bit more money, the Schiit Vidar @ $799 would be quite sufficient.
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86dB is no way "very low" for bookshelf speakers - it is rather quite average.
unless you play very loud, it should be no problem.
Nice. Def post a pic when you finish em.
I recommend getting that mic asap and doing a freq sweep. L, R, & L+R, The results may be a real eye-opener. Especially L to R with that unsymmetrical room.
UMIK-1 + REW is the best 100bucks you'll spend on making you system sound better IMO as it can help direct room setup/speaker placement and necessary EQ implementation.
I recommend getting that mic asap and doing a freq sweep. L, R, & L+R, The results may be a real eye-opener. Especially L to R with that unsymmetrical room.
UMIK-1 + REW is the best 100bucks you'll spend on making you system sound better IMO as it can help direct room setup/speaker placement and necessary EQ implementation.
jooc
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What sensitivity are those speakers you built? That Fosi V3 with the 48v power supply can power most speakers to ear-splitting levels. That iotaVX is a fantastic integrated amp by the way and stacking the PA3 would be exceptional with any good speakers, but so is that V3 really at least as far as sound goes.
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