Wiki can help you out of your confusion : search for amp and bridged mode (versus paralel mode)
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Topping LA90 Review (Integrated Amplifier)
- Thread starter amirm
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Do you have a link for these linear power supplies, thank you.
etc6849
Active Member
I wish the review would compare AHB2 in bridged mode and in low gain mode versus the LA90 in bridged mode and low gain mode. It seems pretty unfair to compare the LA90 in low gain mode and to the Benchmark AHB2 in high gain mode regardless of the stereo mode and mono mode setting... Amir previously measured the AHB2 in mono mode and in low gain mode as shown below. Even looking at the AHB2 review, I didn't see measurements for the AHB2 in low gain mode with the AHB2 in bridged mono mode though, so honestly, how are we to objectively compare the LA90 vs AHB2?
We all know which one is the benchmark in terms of headroom, and likely product support and defect rates (I have no personal experience with Topping, but have read posts about Topping like the A90 reviews from verified purchasers found here). No idea why there are so many failures on the amazon reviews for the A90, but I would be skeptical until they can prove reliability long-term.
I think stating that two LA90's is better versus one AHB2 is a little questionable... after all, we can all agree the AHB2's noise floor is already beyond our level of hearing as it is. From a technical perspective, I'd rather have the extra headroom of the AHB2 (especially with more of them running in mono mode providing 500 watts).
The LA90 is an interesting option for people not wanting to spend the money for Benchmark (made in the USA using quality components with outstanding measurements and support). I have no doubt my AHB2 amps will still be working 10-20 years from now. In fact, I've bought some of their older products such as their outstanding MPA1 microphone preamp that were that old off ebay and an old ADC1, and they work great!
I'd love to see a tear-down and discussion of the circuit topology being used by Topping to obtain such outstanding measurements. Clearly they are headed in the right direction.
We all know which one is the benchmark in terms of headroom, and likely product support and defect rates (I have no personal experience with Topping, but have read posts about Topping like the A90 reviews from verified purchasers found here). No idea why there are so many failures on the amazon reviews for the A90, but I would be skeptical until they can prove reliability long-term.
I think stating that two LA90's is better versus one AHB2 is a little questionable... after all, we can all agree the AHB2's noise floor is already beyond our level of hearing as it is. From a technical perspective, I'd rather have the extra headroom of the AHB2 (especially with more of them running in mono mode providing 500 watts).
The LA90 is an interesting option for people not wanting to spend the money for Benchmark (made in the USA using quality components with outstanding measurements and support). I have no doubt my AHB2 amps will still be working 10-20 years from now. In fact, I've bought some of their older products such as their outstanding MPA1 microphone preamp that were that old off ebay and an old ADC1, and they work great!
I'd love to see a tear-down and discussion of the circuit topology being used by Topping to obtain such outstanding measurements. Clearly they are headed in the right direction.
etc6849
Active Member
The room dominates a lot too, especially for a normal sized (e.g. small) room. Here are some measurements of my setup at the main listening position. No EQ used either, but it is a customer tri-amped setup crossed to 5 powered subs (so really quad amped).
But I don't think I'm confused. There's only one 64V supply, so...
Korad KA3305P "programmable DC Power Supply"
It's got USB and serial for PC connection, but mostly I just use the thing with the dials on the front.
There's nothing similar for the money. Siglent is similar quality but costs a bit more. Siglent are smaller and lighter (and likely costlier) because of their use of toroidal transformers. I have a couple of their 16V / 8A supplies with burnt output transistors (battery charge backwards oopsie lol)
You don't have to do this next part with the Korad- it's to fix its semi-loud disposition if you're so inclined. Most people might just put the thing in a closet or cabinet which will silence it well enough, you just have to remember that if the space is small and unvented, it will heat up eventually and you'll have to find how long it is before ambient temperature rises more than ~20-30C (running time limit)
Here goes for the Michael's Korad Kustomization and Konfig:
The fan in the Korad is one speed only, and for some strange reason, PWM is used.
Not traditional PWM though ("traditional" as in 12V is supplied to the fan along with a PWM signal on a third wire which is used to adjust speed).
It's PWM as in: "there are only two wires and the power itself is pulsed..."
So, so weird, right?!!!
Extremely...!
And not weird like "only sometimes this configuration is seen". Weird like "this PWM isn't like anything else I've ever seen anywhere, in any device!!!"
The effect from pulsing the power itself is unfortunate, too, probably especially so with the extremely low frequency that was chosen: ~150Hz
150Hz is a very low frequency for any pulsed signal
Anyway, what I did to remedy the situation is:
I put a 50-100 ohm resistor in line with the fan which serves two purposes. Since the top of the PWM pulses is too high to send to the fan 100% of the time, the resistor lowers that voltage to one that makes the fan spin at the right speed. It's second purpose is to limit the charge current to the capacitor I added which I'm about to tell you about now:
I added a 100-220uf capacitor to smooth the pulsed power being sent to the fan, into /more or less/ a stable voltage (it's pretty stable, the fan's speed doesn't flutter or wow).
Yes, I gave ranges. I'm sorry... The reasons are possible differences between components in different devices and possible differences of your preferences in fan speed control from mine (ie. how much heat you're willing to deal with - like an overclocker's CPU fan profile, for example). There's also the fact that I don't remember exactly which components I used, too. I do know they were in the range I provided, though. I'd take the cover off mine to look if it'd do any good, but it won't.... I heatshrinked around the parts to eliminate the possibility of shorts (I recommend you do the same unless you have other plans. In any case, make sure to make plans to minimize/eliminate the possibility of a short.
If you can't tell, tinkering with things is a hobby of mine, and to get this fan profile working the way I wanted, it took a combination of theorizing, strateging, and last but not least: trial and error. In the end, the above described description is the simplest and most reliable way to make the fan behave properly. As optimally as possible given its power source.
To Korad's credit, this is meant to go in a lab, and the sound level of most equipment in labs isn't really a consideration. The sound the thing makes while running is likely to only to be noticed by the operator in the lab using it because of the sound everything else is making.
What ends up happening when you incorporate the two parts properly?
0A-1A: The fan spins at about 400-500RPM and is nearly silent. The device stays cool, air exhausted from the rear maxes at around 35C
1A-2.5A: The fan increases in speed, from 500RPM at 1.0A, to 2300RPM at 2.5A. It's pretty linear (as in, at 1.75A, the fan speed it at about 1400RPM) and air exhausted remains around 35C. It's actually cooler at 2.5A than at 1.0A!
2.5A-10.2A: The fan spins at about 2300RPM and the air exhausted increases in temperature until it's about 55C at full power.
(When I say 10.2 A, there are two 5.1A channels. Whether you're using two channels at 0.5A each, or one channel at 1.0A, the fan speed will be pthe same.
Your in-room distortion measurement looks pretty good!
I have a couple questions for you
Have you ever measured your mains alone by sticking one outside, pointing it away from reflective surfaces as much as possible, then placed the mic ~a meter away?
What do you use to power your passives?
How many DB before the bottom end harmonics start to bloom?
Top end? (tweeter & mids, separately if possible)
90dB in room is pretty good. Most content is quieter than that, and when it gets louder clarity usually isn't too important ('cuz it's "BOOM!" or whatever...)
With 90 in room, about how many dB is it 3ft from, say, Left?
Personally I'm getting the Topping because of its price relative to the Benchmark, as well as my personal needs. Needs? For 99% of my listening time, I'll want the signal going to the 8 ohm speakers at or below 24V peak to peak (this is the 34W into 8 ohms of the LA90's rating). Because of this reality, I can't justify an increase of $3,000 from 1,000 dollars, especially considering the economic realities right now... For example: I ordered my Topping LA90 almost 3 weeks ago from a store on Amazon, and the online store got my order in Shenzhen (ie. I was charged), they printed a label for the box, and since then? Nothing else has happened! Since the day I ordered and they got their money, nothing! I assume that now I have to wait some time until there are enough orders for the company (or groups of companies splitting) to have enough orders to fill a container bound for CA. I don't know if anyone's been paying attention to the political and economical situation in China, but overall, including Shenzhen and its manufacturing and all the other major hubs and centers, has really fallen. There has been a lot of propaganda that China's the best and so great (especially over the last 5-7 years and especially especially since the countrywide lockdown ended 7 months ago). The reality there is that corruption is rampant, so rampant that even with IP theft they can't make chips remotely as good as Intel did circa 2009 (32nm). It's like that with everything there. If it's not stolen or it isn't a foreign company manufacturing there, 999/1000? It sucks. Chinese people know it, too. They buy stuff from elsewhere. Literally anywhere else. Since a lot of good things from big C are stolen, one of my concerns before going for this Topping LA90 was: "was there IP theft?". Because I didn't want to buy it if there was IP theft involved. By the pictures of internals, I find the design very simple. Quality components and good design: BAM! <- there you have it ::: -120dB THD+n... in a power amp!
Who'd'a thunk?
Computers so fast and scientific equipment -230dB THD+n, yet amplifiers... for some... reason.... stagnated....... - from the 70s 'til LITERALLY
Benchmark...
The simplicity of the LA90 makes me think a conspiracy might've existed to hide high fidelity amplifiers from the public. It's also possible that the engineers at all the usual suspects were dumb or not trying lol. (It's usually the simplest, self-serving option lmao)
It really seems like we're on the cusp of truly transparent amplifiers becoming available at fair, honest prices.
Benchmark charges 4k because they can. It's a niche market and there are no competitors!
I'd wager they'd still be profitable if they were forced to sell their product at 2k (even with it made in the USA...), and I look forward to the day that happens.
Go Topping! We need competition!
(one of the reasons China is "falling" is because labour prices are so high now. People there aren't making $100USD per month anymore... For the common people it's like 800-1800, and their expenses are so so SO much cheaper there. If Topping is paying their workers $1400USD per month (they probably are), then the LA90 could be made in the states for $1000.
My speakers are 8 ohms and 85dB/w, but I use them near-field, so most of the time (99%), 34 watts will be enough for me. If I want to crank up some rock, I've got bigger and 6dB more efficient speakers (as a part of a 5 channel package) with two subs in the next room, bi-amped with 114W RMS available per channel.
etc6849
Active Member
I don't use passive crossovers at all as I was only interested in the best possible performance. I use active FIR filters for H, M and L, and a low order bessel filter for crossing to the 5 subs. Of course all 20 amp channels are time aligned as well.
90dB is at the main listening position about 7-8 feet from each speaker. I have no idea what the system's limits are. I would assume close to 120dB 3 feet from the speaker, but I'm not brave enough test it. The Benchmark AHB2's never clip, and the speakers never sound distorted at any volume levels I've used. Of course, the distortion measurement is going to go up as I go higher in volume. I can't remember the numbers at 100dB, but it was still pretty outstanding.
It's not worth testing the speakers outdoors IMHO. I am only concerned with performance at the main listening position. All my filter settings are custom for my room and overall system... They are setup with REW software with the mic at the main listening position only.
Your 34 watt estimates is too low in my experience, especially if your speaker's sensivity is 85dB. Mine were 99dB @ 2.83V and 1 meter before I bypassed the passive crossovers. It takes one AHB2 in mono mode (~500 watts) to drive my the three woofers in one speaker to avoid clipping at extreme transients and loudness.
Tracks are transient have intermittent peaks. If your amp doesn't have a clipping indicator, you will not know if it's clipping. Benchmark has some great application notes on calculating SPL output for a given amp and speaker combo. An end of the game system should shoot for 115-120dB peaks. I didn't do the calculations, but no way will 34 watts get you there and avoid clipping during transients. Your speakers are definitely on the hard to drive and inefficient side.
90dB is at the main listening position about 7-8 feet from each speaker. I have no idea what the system's limits are. I would assume close to 120dB 3 feet from the speaker, but I'm not brave enough test it. The Benchmark AHB2's never clip, and the speakers never sound distorted at any volume levels I've used. Of course, the distortion measurement is going to go up as I go higher in volume. I can't remember the numbers at 100dB, but it was still pretty outstanding.
It's not worth testing the speakers outdoors IMHO. I am only concerned with performance at the main listening position. All my filter settings are custom for my room and overall system... They are setup with REW software with the mic at the main listening position only.
Your 34 watt estimates is too low in my experience, especially if your speaker's sensivity is 85dB. Mine were 99dB @ 2.83V and 1 meter before I bypassed the passive crossovers. It takes one AHB2 in mono mode (~500 watts) to drive my the three woofers in one speaker to avoid clipping at extreme transients and loudness.
Tracks are transient have intermittent peaks. If your amp doesn't have a clipping indicator, you will not know if it's clipping. Benchmark has some great application notes on calculating SPL output for a given amp and speaker combo. An end of the game system should shoot for 115-120dB peaks. I didn't do the calculations, but no way will 34 watts get you there and avoid clipping during transients. Your speakers are definitely on the hard to drive and inefficient side.
Nice traps!
And walls lol. Your room looks amazing - built for purpose and still attractive!
Random question - what'd you use for amplification before the Benchmarks? Or did you do this because an amplifier spec'd so well appeared? And what do you use to for DACs?
And what size is your room?
I want to go completely active at some point too.
My post was long - you might've missed that I use them near-field. I eventually plan to use the LA-90 for the tweeter (91.5dB/W) and another amp for the woofers, but that's well in the future. Right now I have the Topping G5 which I'll use as the source. In the future, I have an RME BabyFace Pro interface (4ch in, 4 out) that I plan to use for the active system. Its THD+n is ~-107dB, and subjectively the sound is good - powerful. Some DACs (and amps) sound like they lack bass for some reason. The woofers move and everything, but the bass? Just isn't there properly... I don't know which metric is used to gauge how powerful the bass that's present sounds - whatever it is, the BabyFace has it in spades. Obviously I don't mean it's boomy, just that bass is there when it's supposed to be, and doesn't come across weak.
So
For my future system, I'll be doing two-way with my ATC SCM20 Pro PSL Mk 2 (ATC's S-spec tweeter with -70dB or less THD through entire operating band (2-22kHz). From the chart I remember seeing, distortion was highest in the 2-3kHz region - the cutoff was at -80dB. Above 3kHz, except for a couple brief points maybe 2-300Hz wide, distortion was below the bottom of the chart. Obviously I can't picture what I can't see, but if I had to guess I'd say at least half the bandwidth above was a good mix between -85dB and -100. I could be wrong and distortion could be right at -81dB except for those humps, too, but... lol.
Then the woofer - it uses ATC's design they call Super-Linear which puts some material in the magenetic circuit which quashes magnetic inductance or something. I forget how they described it, but basically, compared to the exact woofer without the material, third harmonic distortion was between 10 and 15dB higher between 100Hz and 3000Hz. In most of ATC's designs their woofer cuts to the midrange at 380Hz, so the range this tech makes a difference in is unfortunately relatively limited. Not so unfortunate though, because their 3" dome gets to take over! (and being that their smallest woofer in a 3 way in their pro line is 9 inches, dispersion benefits too). The speaker I have, I've seen in their designs crossed at either 2.1 or 2.5kHz (2.1 in pro with s-spec tweeter, 2.5 in consumer with non-s-spec tweeter (tweeter main difference: smaller magnet, not fully saturated gap). This means almost the full 100-3khz reduced distortion range is used.
Also, the woofer's frame is absolutely massive, so the mounting holes are similar to an 8" woofer - technically it's called a 150mm driver, its rubber surround is decently sized, and the cone itself might be more accurately be described as 5.5". The magnet might be (is?) the reason for the frame size - it's the same as used on their 9, 12, and 15" models and weighs quite a bit. I forget exactly how many ounces it is (not listed) but I've seen written by someone who interviewed someone at ATC say that the magnet assembly weighs 20lbs (320oz?). Maybe that's including other things too... It'd surprise me greatly if the magnet was an ounce under 200. Which is great, because this is an underhung design with a 20mm gap!
Painting the picture that good amps won't go to waste on my speakers: complete
Couple questions:
Having done your system so nicely, what would you recommend for me seeing what I've written? More specifically software, hardware recommendations etc
and
What is something you learned along the way that would be nice to be able to send back in time to yourself when starting out because it would've saved you a bunch of time, frustration, pointless repetition or other undesirable things?
manisandher
Addicted to Fun and Learning
I already have 3x LA90s (original IC versions). I was hoping to get a fourth in order to power the 3-way active system in my office: 2x LA90 monos for the LF, 2x LA90 stereos for the MF and HF. But I couldn't source a new LA90 anywhere (for delivery to UK). So, I went for a pair of Nord Three 1ET7040SA monos instead: 2x Purifi monos for the LF, 2x LA90 stereos for MF and HF.
That leaves me with one LA90 'spare', which I'll continue to use as the stereo amp for my AKG 'head speakers'.
I have to say that before the advent of superb class AB and D amp offerings at very resaonable prices, I would never have considered going fully active (in all three systems now). Of course, the easy option would have been to just go for fully-integrated active speakers... but that wouldn't have been so much fun.
When I have some time, I'm hoping to put together a video showing the benefits of converting a passive 3-way to fully-active... for not a crazy amount of money.
Mani.
That leaves me with one LA90 'spare', which I'll continue to use as the stereo amp for my AKG 'head speakers'.
I have to say that before the advent of superb class AB and D amp offerings at very resaonable prices, I would never have considered going fully active (in all three systems now). Of course, the easy option would have been to just go for fully-integrated active speakers... but that wouldn't have been so much fun.
When I have some time, I'm hoping to put together a video showing the benefits of converting a passive 3-way to fully-active... for not a crazy amount of money.
Mani.
etc6849
Active Member
When I built the system, there weren't cheaper ultra low noise amplifiers available. The Benchmark AHB2's were the only amps that didn't have an audible hiss with my horns, especially once I removed the passive crossovers. I wouldn't want a volume control on something I use for an active setup, but I guess if you don't have kids it might work... hopefully there's a way to bypass the volume dial, if not, certainly not ideal.
Speaker Processors like the Xilica XD4080 (4 in, 8 out) are a DAC and DSP all in one unit. I have an RME 16 channel AES output card. I just send 6 digital channels into three Xilica XD4080's, but the system is very expandable once there's a freely available Atmos based software decoder as I still have 10 other digital output channels I can use.
The RME AES sound card acts as a digital volume control for the Windows PC. I use JRiver Media Center for all the playback, but the system still works with the Netflix app, web browser, etc...
For a world class setup, I would want room treatments first, then multiple subs. After that, I would think about going active. Going active was a night and day difference for me. I immediately heard the difference, and will never go back. The headroom I have with no audible distortion at all is absolutely insane.
Used Benchmark AHB2's hold all their value really well in my experience. I have Benchmark gear I bought used 5 years ago that is worth even more now. The cost isn't that much more over two LA90's at $899+tax versus a single used AHB2 ($2200-2400) for example.
Speaker Processors like the Xilica XD4080 (4 in, 8 out) are a DAC and DSP all in one unit. I have an RME 16 channel AES output card. I just send 6 digital channels into three Xilica XD4080's, but the system is very expandable once there's a freely available Atmos based software decoder as I still have 10 other digital output channels I can use.
The RME AES sound card acts as a digital volume control for the Windows PC. I use JRiver Media Center for all the playback, but the system still works with the Netflix app, web browser, etc...
For a world class setup, I would want room treatments first, then multiple subs. After that, I would think about going active. Going active was a night and day difference for me. I immediately heard the difference, and will never go back. The headroom I have with no audible distortion at all is absolutely insane.
Used Benchmark AHB2's hold all their value really well in my experience. I have Benchmark gear I bought used 5 years ago that is worth even more now. The cost isn't that much more over two LA90's at $899+tax versus a single used AHB2 ($2200-2400) for example.
I see, so PC > Xilica > amps...
Very simple. Simple is good!
How do you play other sources... do you use a couple of the four inputs or?
If I'd known something like that Xilica existed 8-10 years ago when I was first looking into going active, I probably would've bought one and moved forward with what I was doing. I might not have ended up with these speakers I like so very very much - especially the tweeter. I know my post was long - did you read what I wrote about it? It's just sounds so... clean and accurate and limitless. I can't wait to cross it lower - due to its dual suspension design, it can't get into any rocking modes, keeping distortion low at high levels and low frequencies.
I plan to have a couple profiles - one for lower level listening, and one for high power listening. The lower level will have the tweeter crossed lower, higher level - higher. I think I measured the resonant frequency of the tweeter to be 900 or 1100Hz. I'm thinking in the 1300-1600 range for the lower (whichever sounds best), 2100 for higher (2100 is the frequency of the included passive crossover, might as well stick with it). I'll probably experiment with frequencies even, lower to try to get things acting like a single point source. Just for fun obviously - center to center is about 6 inches, so ~600Hz would be quarter wave. The tweeter probably doesn't sound better than the woofer anymore when moving more than +- 0.5mm in either direction... but it'll be interesting to be able to move around and hear things like it's an all range driver!
I've had bad luck with used audio equipment... Bought an Arcam A32 which ended up not working too well, a beastly class A amp (Kinergetics KBA 280) that needed new caps after 3 months because hum set in. Because the amp then needed work doing, it was in the position to be worked on and I accidentally touched my soldering iron to the positive terminal while the amp was on and BAM!, the thing broke most of its transistors... Still haven't fixed it and probably won't if this LA90 shows up... Actually, maybe I will - it can do the midwoofer.
When I sell things, they work. When I buy things, they don't. Life's a bitch! Lol
From looking at the reliability of Topping's other products, you've got about 50/50 chance that you paid for a $1k nonfunctioning brick. Instead of making spurious comments about Benchmark, perhaps consider that it takes time, effort, and money to make an actually exceptional product along with offering top notch customer support. Looks like Apollon Audio has a similar price range as Benchmark, and from what I can tell, they too offer great customer service. Topping is rapidly establishing that the only thing they are good at making are products that temporarily measure well before they soon self-destruct and then leaving it to the buyer to try to recoup his losses as best he is able. Please do check back in a year's time (or likely much less) on what a great buy Topping is.
I only brought up Benchmark because the only amp with similar specs to the LA90 is their flagship. The amps are so different in every other way - isn't Benchmark's class D?
Anyway, I'm criticizing all manufacturers. Why is it that with so few parts and for such a low cost, these specifications are possible?
Only:
- incompetence
- greed
come to my mind as the possible explanations for the more established brands to not have comparable products available for reasonable prices.
BTW, from what I've been able to gather and see, the parts in the LA90 seem to be of high quality - the bulk caps definitely are (and they're one part that would definitely have to be for -120.
You don't get a product that measures this well by using shite parts and doing a shite job putting them together.
All the same parts are available and are use d by Topping in their designs as other brands you consider better, and they use the same methods of production, same standards. They might even be made in the same massive factory...
There's no reason that what they make should break in a year's time (or even ten...)
Topping is putting "better" brands to shame! Don't you think those "better" brands should be able to make something "quality" for no more than twice the price that Topping is selling their stuff for? EASILY!
But they're not!
WAY too often, they're charging 10-20+ times the price for stuff that's not even as good. It's pathetic
I agree with you that their stuff isn't polished, but it's so far from garbage that'll be broken in a year it's not even funny. For you to directly state a 50% failure rate at 1 year shows your bias... Are you angry about something? Did you drop 10K on a DAC 4 years ago that the G5 runs circles around now? I'd like to understand, tell me lol
Edit: there's also economy of scale that Benchmark doesn't benefit from. The advantage they have from that enables the "better customer service" offered by more established brands.
In the simple device market, the replacement of defective products is customer service. What else could you need? (Topping does replace defective afaik)
Last edited:
Sokel
Master Contributor
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Benchmark is class AB.
I certainly won't defend all audio companies. I think there is some price gouging happening in some instances. However, I think Benchmark is a good actor. Taking them as an example, I don't know what their profit margins are, but given the quality of the product that they put out and the fact that they are made in the United States, I'd say their costs are already higher than Topping's. Additionally, they have much better customer support. All of that costs money and raises the price of the product.
Regarding Topping's quality, many members here have posted about their Topping products dying not long after purchase, from DOA to 9 months, and that's with multiple product offerings. At best what Topping has demonstrated is an interesting experiment about what may be possible, but until they actually deliver a product without high critical failure rates, then they haven't demonstrated a company can make a successful product as cheaply as they can and be a viable business. Unless they make much, much better products, they are going to go out of business.
There's also economy of scale
there's also economy of scale that topping doesn't benefit from. The advantage larger companies have from that enables the "better customer service" offered by the more established brands.
In the simple device market, the replacement of defective products is customer service. What else could you need? (Topping does replace defective afaik)
What topping shows with its products is what's possible - shows what a crap job established brands are doing. I can't explain their supposed high failure rates - all parts are from the same source and all boards are made the same. Some could be down to this being a hobby and more consumer oriented stuff just gets returned without complaint because theyre established giants and complaining won't do anything
The vast majority of Topping devices will last the appropriate amount of time, there's no way a 50% failure rate.
I added this
there's also economy of scale that topping doesn't benefit from. The advantage larger companies have from that enables the "better customer service" offered by the more established brands.
In the simple device market, the replacement of defective products is customer service. What else could you need? (Topping does replace defective afaik)
What topping shows with its products is what's possible - shows what a crap job established brands are doing. I can't explain their supposed high failure rates - all parts are from the same source and all boards are made the same. Some could be down to this being a hobby and more consumer oriented stuff just gets returned without complaint because theyre established giants and complaining won't do anything
The vast majority of Topping devices will last the appropriate amount of time, there's no way a 50% failure rate.
I've had four different Topping products over the last two years and not one of them has failed on me, including this LA90 amp. Used nearly every day. Sure, there are failure rates for things like the PA5 which make me uncomfortable, but I haven't had one issue yet.
I guess this comes down to another conversation I had here. Reliability and longevity are important criteria for me. If those aren't important to someone, then I suppose they could be satisfied replacing defective products. Some members here have posted about having to do so with Topping multiple times. I can't imagine such a company wouldn't burn through its customers' goodwill with such an approach, but maybe the market has shifted enough to a throwaway economy that such a business model is sustainable.
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