Review and Measurements of IOM NCore Pro PWR Amp

[March Audio]

RCA happens to be a standard for home equipment. There is quite a number of amps with great specs and RCA inputs available on the market.

It is indeed unfortunate that it is prolific in home audio. The issue here is specific to the fact that with a balanced input if you put the conversion to RCA at the amp you will still suffer a problem that can be easily avoided.

Having screen connected to the RCA low at the amp means that any ground currents from the source will flow in that signal wire (the whole ground loop issue and fundamental flaw in single ended RCA). If the balance screen is connected to RCA low at the far source end those currents flow harmlessly in the screen wire and not the signal wire. This is achieved by a simple XLR to RCA cable. It is also precisely what Hypex recommend.

 

[March Audio]

BTW, the data sheet for this module gives 1.66v as needed to drive the amp to 250w @ 4 ohms RMS, but 2.34v peak. If I have a DAC with a 2v rated output, is that RMS or peak and can the typical DAC reach a peak output higher than the typical 2V rating? In other words, what do you really need to drive this module, especially if you don't have a balanced DAC?

Your dac will be rated in RMS so yes 2 v is fine. No need to be balanced output. Single ended is perfectly compatible but best with appropriately wired cable.

 

[boXem]

It's not a job for Sherlock. 20% of peak power. BTW, Nord still advertises (as of yesterday) 200W @ 8 ohms for the NC252MP and Hypex still has the datasheet for download. Perhaps the board was revised and Nord still has the old ones.

Loud music in home sized rooms is not played at over 10W continuous. The FTC standard created more problems than it solved and probably caused consumers to spend money on thermal solutions which made no difference in even hard actual use.

Hypex told me 200W @8 Ohms was a typo, they never produced such boards. And they sell only one type of board.

 

[March Audio]

Loud music in home sized rooms is not played at over 10W continuous. The FTC standard created more problems than it solved and probably caused consumers to spend money on thermal solutions which made no difference in even hard actual use.

This I agree with. Well, I think the continuous power is too low but still the point remains. It was the wrong solution to the problem of manufactures inflating power numbers. The test bears no resemblance to any real usage case.

 

[Ron Texas]

Hypex told me 200W @8 Ohms was a typo, they never produced such boards. And they sell only one type of board.

That's interesting, but the version 1 datasheet is still available for download with the 200W @ 8 ohm spec in it. I have a feeling the real number is 150.

 

[March Audio]

That's interesting, but the version 1 datasheet is still available for download with the 200W @ 8 ohm spec in it. I have a feeling the real number is 150.

It certainly is currently 150, see my previous posts.

 

[Ron Texas]

It certainly is currently 150, see my previous posts.

Nord still advertises 200, but that just might be another reason to hate them.

 

[maty]

That wont stop 50/60Hz mains noise...

It is not worth continuing. I have only taken a screenshot, which I will save. The RF band is at hundreds of kHz and the EMI from Mhz. Nothing to do with 50/60 Hz as you should know.

The problem of Hypex is when they work hard: some components of the SMPS get too hot, hence the limiter is the heat. That is why I wrote about adding forced ventilation with a silent fan if you want to squeeze the power supplied.

If I set the calculations to 80 dBSPL continuous it is evident to anyone that the continuous power required is minimal, hence Nelson Pass's insistence with the quality of the first watt.

With only 1.5 watts continuous -> 80.2 dBSPL.

The problem comes when listening to recordings with high dynamic range, where it is not so uncommon to find values of DR15 and higher, at least in the music I listen to. Then you need an amplifier that is capable of supplying it when required.

The estimate of 90 watts was by rule 1/5 of the other module. No matter if they are 100 watts or more, it is more than enough for my current and future requirements, that was what I was trying to explain.

 

[March Audio]

It is not worth continuing. I have only taken a screenshot, which I will save.

View attachment 33426

The problem of Hypex is when they work hard: some components of the SMPS get too hot, hence the limiter is the heat. That is why I wrote about adding forced ventilation with a silent fan if you want to squeeze the power supplied.

If I set the calculations to 80 dBSPL continuous it is evident to anyone that the continuous power required is minimal, hence Nelson Pass's insistence with the quality of the first watt.

With only 1.5 watts continuos -> 80.2 dBSPL.

The problem comes when listening to recordings with large dynamic range, where it is not so uncommon to find values of DR15 and higher, at least in the music I listen to. Then you need an amplifier that is capable of supplying it when required.

The estimate of 90 watts was by rule 1/5 of the other module. No matter if they are 100 watts or more, it is more than enough for my current and future requirements, that was what I was trying to explain.

and yet I have had these modules in my active speaker design for several years, in use most days, with zero issues. Out of my sales zero faulty amps returned.

Active cooling is not required.

Power requirements arent that simple. Speaker loads are reactive and you need the ability to dissipate more power than is delivered usefully into the load.

 

[maty]

Therefore, to build the PURIFI 1ET400A, I will look for another alternative to the Hypex SMPS, with better components. If the price of the kit is reasonable, I will wait for Bruno to develop the new SMPS that he mentioned in the interview. It is the advantage of enjoying a great sound, which I can expect.

Let others take the risk, I do not need it. Surely it will sound spectacular but that is not enough for me, as is well known. It must to have the ability to get excited me (with more recordings that with my modded AVR) because it feeds the tweeters correctly.

If I just listened to the current commercial music, so painfully produced and low / very low DR with synthetic instrumentation and processed voices, with these cheaper modules I would have enough, but not.

 

[maty]

Off topic

-> https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...-are-we-listening-to-right-now.40/post-228807

Updated

 

[Julf]

Off topic

For once we agree.

 

[Veri]

Off topic

View attachment 33428

Why

 

[headshake]

Its a misleading comparison in terms of value however. How do you value your time to build it? How do you value a manufacturers warranty (mine is 3 years). I do encourage people to diy though, it can be very rewarding.

Yeah, DIY is not for everyone and I appreciate what you offer and that you share with this forum. I've been to your site many times during my planning.

I think I need the OEM box to be made in the same country for the warranty to be worthwhile. Shipping fees kill warranties.

The DIY labour for a plate amp requires no wiring other than putting in the plug. If there is something wrong, it is hypex's fault. A box is all you need to build. Drilling small holes is the only requirement.

For a box you need a body and a cut piece for the top to hold it all.

A box: https://www.hawkusa.com/manufacturers/bud/enclosures/ac-1414 $25USD a case shipped (if i buy 2).
A cut piece for the top can be made at ponoko.com. A cut aluminium top would be around $45USD, even less for MDF.

FA251 ... $265USD
Plug .... $15USD
box: .... $25USD
cut plate... $45USD
labour .... $????... self-determined
-----
$350 USD per completed amp. This only gets you one channel so you need 2. So $700USD for stereo... still less than many and you get all the extras like dsp, shutoff/standby, etc vs a plain amp w. nothing else.

It's not for everyone that is for sure, but it is nice to have options.

Fair comparison (even if DIY / OEM comparison is not really fair) is with FA252 @ Eur. 385.

Can't use it as stereo though. So you need (2) 251's.

 

[March Audio]

Yeah, DIY is not for everyone and I appreciate what you offer and that you share with this forum. I've been to your site many times during my planning.

I think I need the OEM box to be made in the same country for the warranty to be worthwhile. Shipping fees kill warranties.

The DIY labour for a plate amp requires no wiring other than putting in the plug. If there is something wrong, it is hypex's fault. A box is all you need to build. Drilling small holes is the only requirement.

For a box you need a body and a cut piece for the top to hold it all.

A box: https://www.hawkusa.com/manufacturers/bud/enclosures/ac-1414 $25USD a case shipped (if i buy 2).
A cut piece for the top can be made at ponoko.com. A cut aluminium top would be around $45USD, even less for MDF.

FA251 ... $265USD
Plug .... $15USD
box: .... $25USD
cut plate... $45USD
labour .... $????... self-determined
-----
$350 USD per completed amp. This only gets you one channel so you need 2. So $700USD for stereo... still less than many and you get all the extras like dsp, shutoff/standby, etc vs a plain amp w. nothing else.

It's not for everyone that is for sure, but it is nice to have options.


Can't use it as stereo though. So you need (2) 251's.

So $700 USD for DIY v $845 USD pre made.

 

[Ron Texas]

So $700 USD for DIY v $845 USD pre made.

He's doing monoblocks. Unless 2 251 power supply sections are better than one 252 it doesn't matter. I wonder why they just don't build dual mono since there isn't that much heat coming off any of the Class D modules.

 

[headshake]

So $700 USD for DIY v $845 USD pre made.

So $700 USD for DIY w/ a dsp, standby/shutdown timer, signal detection, remote, multiple inputs v $845 USD pre made w/o a dsp, standby/shutdown timer, signal detection, remote, multiple inputs .


That's how it looks to me. Also, the fusion plate amp is better than a cheap minidsp so you would need a more expensive dsp to match it.

Most consume and few create so I think you're sales will be safe.

.

 

[JJB70]

DIY is an interesting option for those with the confidence to have a go or who are comfortable that they have the requisite skills. On the other hand, I fully understand why most prefer a completed product.

 

[maty]

There are an intermediate option: DIY build for other diyer, with very positive references. And so, spending a little more, we can even have a nice box. The more expensive the hardware, the more it will compensate to do so.

With faceplates the only complicated thing is to make the holes, the rest is very easy, and more if only works like amplifier. There is always the resource to ask for help in the diyers forums like diyaudio.com

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/306815-hypex-fusion-plate-amps.html

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/FUSION-BI-AMP-DSP.htm

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/FUSION-3.htm

 

[JJB70]

If you can build your own amplifier and feel OK doing the easy stuff like building hifi components then you might be ready to try setting up a Schiit turntable