Review and Measurements of IOM NCore Pro PWR Amp

[March Audio]

Yes, Hypex data are ALWAYS power peak and not continous. MARKETING. Many have fallen, for not striving to inform themselves properly. Usually compulsive purchases or reviews that do not inform as they should.

WRONG

 

[maty]

From the Hypex NC252MP PDF

and CMR only 71 dB.

PSRR?

The PDF is well specified. Sellers/assemblers, not all, who cheat by not specifying that they are peak watts and not continuous.

BTW: "Apply sufficient cooling" -> bad idea a closed box without enough holes (and at the least harmful site, far from audio electronics) and/or heatsinks.

 

[maty]

In order to compare with the state of the art (known public) in class D amp:

PURIFI 1ET400A, from the PDF

In my second audio system I have a little coaxial KEF Q100 with true 85 dB/W/m and 3.9 Ohms minimum. If I want 95 dBSPL peak wich each speaker at 3 meters: I need 50 watts peak at 8 Ohms -> 100 watts peak at 4 Ohms (remember: 3.9 Ohms minimum and impedance graph is like 5-6 Ohms nominal and not 8 Ohms as KEF says).

My requirements: 80 dBSPL continuous with my very good recordings of DR15 -> 95 dBSPL peak.

https://www.doctorproaudio.com/content.php?2273-calculators-proaudio-sound-dmx&langid=1#calc_spl

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...mplifiers-to-test-and-review.2238/post-187193

PURIFI: short term 450 watts at 4 Ohms. Then, 1/5 -> 90 watts continuous at 4 Ohms (without protection being activate, it is an estimate). It is a very good value to my speakers and without problems if I switch to a larger room and more demanding speaker! The calculations are overestimating the required power, so I will not fall short.

If we add forced cooling with a silent fan(s), it can supply more continuous power.


PS: with modern commercial music, usually DR < or << 10 dB you need much less power peak!

 

[headshake]

Nice to see another hypex solution.

I still find the plate amps a better value if you can DIY your own case. A fa251 is way less than what the OEM's want for a fancy box.

 

[boXem]

Its not a lab. Thats the office. It just happened to be convenient to do the video there for various reasons.

In any case we arent making satellites, clean room conditions not required and no, static is not a problem.

Your office is nicer than mine .
Agree on clean room, less on static. It's really climate and people dependent (my son can't touch anything metallic during winter without getting a discharge).

 

[boXem]

Nice to see another hypex solution.

I still find the plate amps a better value if you can DIY your own case. A fa251 is way less than what the OEM's want for a fancy box.

Fair comparison (even if DIY / OEM comparison is not really fair) is with FA252 @ Eur. 385.

 

[maty]

Fair comparison (even if DIY / OEM comparison is not really fair) is with FA252 @ Eur. 385.

Hypex FA252

https://www.hypex.nl/product/fusionamp-fa252/156

Hypex NC252MP

https://www.hypex.nl/product/nc252mp-oem/76

 

[maty]

You can design (or a friend or a very good DIY seller like Aleksandar from Bulgary, EU) a cheap but very good 1 mm black coated steel box to FusionAmp FA501 or two boxes. With thick front aluminum:

https://www.hypex.nl/product/fusionamp-fa501/158


[IMG, link] http://maty.galeon.com/WP-imagenes/hum/DC-blocker-x4-v2-front.png

[IMG, link] http://maty.galeon.com/WP-imagenes/hum/DC-blocker-x4-v2-back.png


[IMG, link] http://maty.galeon.com/WP-imagenes/hum/ATL-DCB4-box-no-paint-front.jpg

[IMG, link] http://maty.galeon.com/WP-imagenes/hum/ATL-DCB4-box-no-paint-back.jpg


[IMG, link] http://maty.galeon.com/WP-imagenes/hum/ATL-Hi-Fi-DC-Blocker-x4-ME-front.jpg

[IMG, link] http://maty.galeon.com/WP-imagenes/hum/ATL-Hi-Fi-DC-Blocker-x4-ME-back.jpg

 

[Sal1950]

Its not a lab. Thats the office. It just happened to be convenient to do the video there for various reasons.

Makes the place look classy

 

[March Audio]

Makes the place look classy

HeHe we can afford carpet

 

[March Audio]

From the Hypex NC252MP PDF

View attachment 33404

and CMR only 71 dB.

PSRR?

The PDF is well specified. Sellers/assemblers, not all, who cheat by not specifying that they are peak watts and not continuous.

BTW: "Apply sufficient cooling" -> bad idea a closed box without enough holes (and at the least harmful site, far from audio electronics) and/or heatsinks.

@maty Already demonstrated you are wrong. Watch the video. It sat there before the test warming up at 1/3 power (80 watts) for over an hour before the FTC 5 mins at 250 watts.

Also note the data sheet states RMS power not peak.

What is there you dont understand about this? You are just filling up yet another thread with garbage.

It is, as the Purifi documentation states, the long term power output will be limited by thermal characteristics of the implementation.

Remember its the same guy who designed both modules.

 

[March Audio]

I wrote TRY with RF/EMI fitlers. Sometimes it seems that I should use more rich edition.

I like to check things for myself, hence I bought a cheap second-hand AVR to experiment with it and then apply it to a new one. The problem is that now it sounds great and I have FM Radio to listen to classical music and learn (they have a low quality MP3, despite being public). As long as I do not verify it for myself, I will keep writing try. If I build the only class-D amp that really interest me, PURIFI 1ET400A, I will do the test. If there is or does not improve, I would tell in ASR, even if there were those few..

If it does noy need it, much better, we save our money!

That wont stop 50/60Hz mains noise, in fact it may make it worse due to the Y capacitor - which is precisely why Bruno objects to them.

You have been told previously the EMI issue is already in the case and why thicker cases arent any solution, so why did you repeat this stuff again?

 

[March Audio]

In

PURIFI: short term 450 watts at 4 Ohms. Then, 1/5 -> 90 watts continuous at 4 Ohms (without protection being activate, it is an estimate). It is a very good value to my speakers and without problems if I switch to a larger room and more demanding speaker! The calculations are overestimating the required power, so I will not fall short.

!

@maty I think the 1/5th power quoted in the Hypex data sheet is only a reference to the average power contained in a typical music signal, its not referring to the power capability of the amp as it doesnt make any sense and is not borne out by actual testing. The long term power output will be limited by thermal characteristics of the implementation.

 

[March Audio]

Nice to see another hypex solution.

I still find the plate amps a better value if you can DIY your own case. A fa251 is way less than what the OEM's want for a fancy box.

Possibly. Im pretty sure you cant bypass the A to D and dsp with an analogue input, however you could always completely rip the amp module out.

Its a misleading comparison in terms of value however. How do you value your time to build it? How do you value a manufacturers warranty (mine is 3 years). I do encourage people to diy though, it can be very rewarding.

 

[VintageFlanker]

@maty Already demonstrated you are wrong. Watch the video. It sat there before the test warming up at 1/3 power (80 watts) for over an hour before the FTC 5 mins at 250 watts.

@March Audio, I'm sorry, but IMHO, that is not @maty who is wrong, but datasheet from Hypex. I still don't understand this "50W continuous power". Also, thanks for clarify power specs weren't peak either.

 

[Krunok]

Also there is a very good reason to not have RCA inputs on the amp.

RCA happens to be a standard for home equipment. There is quite a number of amps with great specs and RCA inputs available on the market.

 

[Ron Texas]

@March Audio, I'm sorry, but IMHO, that is not @maty who is wrong, but datasheet from Hypex. I still don't understand this "50W continuous power". Also, thanks for clarify power specs weren't peak either.

It's not a job for Sherlock. 20% of peak power. BTW, Nord still advertises (as of yesterday) 200W @ 8 ohms for the NC252MP and Hypex still has the datasheet for download. Perhaps the board was revised and Nord still has the old ones.

Loud music in home sized rooms is not played at over 10W continuous. The FTC standard created more problems than it solved and probably caused consumers to spend money on thermal solutions which made no difference in even hard actual use.

 

[Ron Texas]

BTW, the data sheet for this module gives 1.66v as needed to drive the amp to 250w @ 4 ohms RMS, but 2.34v peak. If I have a DAC with a 2v rated output, is that RMS or peak and can the typical DAC reach a peak output higher than the typical 2V rating? In other words, what do you really need to drive this module, especially if you don't have a balanced DAC?

 

[March Audio]

@March Audio, I'm sorry, but IMHO, that is not @maty who is wrong, but datasheet from Hypex. I still don't understand this "50W continuous power". Also, thanks for clarify power specs weren't peak either.

Yes, but thats not the issue here, its his ignoring of information and explanations that are posted and propensity to spam every thread with masses of irrelevant information.

 

[VintageFlanker]

Perhaps the board was revised and Nord still has the old ones.

Perhaps. The datasheet has been updated quite recently (July 2019). Still, neither @amirm unit or @March Audio one is able to reach 200W/8ohms.

If I have a DAC with a 2v rated output, is that RMS or peak and can the typical DAC reach a peak output higher than the typical 2V rating? In other words, what do you really need to drive this module, especially if you don't have a balanced DAC?

The max input being given at 6.61dBu (1.66V) for 250W/4ohms, you may theoricaly reach that amount of power with a 2V DAC. Unbalanced is not recommended by Hypex, however (though I actually use RCA with two monoblocs - NC250MP with no "audible" issue). I would say the ADI-2 DAC is the perfect match for this kind of amp. What is your DAC?