I'm waiting for ART announcements...In your case, I would definitely take Integra!
I'm waiting for ART announcements...In your case, I would definitely take Integra!
i have these issues with my LX505 it was driving me insane changing wires etc, i finally figured it out, it was my epson printer that emit some kind of noise clicking... maybe is you try to disconnect the usb-a devices one by one... one of those devices may be producing the noise. Hope this help you.I have a previous version, the LX503, that emits a lot of audible noise like radio short waves out of tune or so. There are lots of power, speaker and antenna wires behind it. Also, connecting HDMI from My Mac Mini, it generates more noise. Solving these issues, it is an excelent pre and music streamer for listening hi res audio via Qobuz using mconnect app, without the need of MQA´s unfolding from Tidal. For stereo, I use its pre out to feed a vintage Sansui integrated amplifier. Does somebody has this kind of issue?
Same here. Solved after removing connections with a vintage Sansui Integranted Amplifier.i have these issues with my LX505 it was driving me insane changing wires etc, i finally figured it out, it was my epson printer that emit some kind of noise clicking... maybe is you try to disconnect the usb-a devices one by one... one of those devices may be producing the noise. Hope this help you.
Does anyone know what the "phase control" feature is? Is it redundant or unnecessary with Dirac?
Probably my fault on changin cables. Not to blame the brand.Not a good message from my 503.
Hard to say, since Amir measured the unit ABOVE its rated capability at 144 watts. The manufacturer's FTC rating is 120 watts with two channels driven. It might have been informative to know when the unit actually engages its protection circuitry. Does it happen at 144 watts continuous, 120 watts, 60 watts, etc.? We may never know.If you read the FTC requirement for measuring rated power it states that it is to be read after 5 minutes of continuous running at that power.
Pioneer’s website lists the FTC power rating:
120 W/ch 8 ohms, 20 Hz-20 kHz, THD 0.08 %, 2ch Driven FTC
This AVR cannot run at anywhere near its rated power for more than 35 seconds.
Martin
It'd be great if Pioneer/Onkyo added "Use as a preamp for best results" on their box but no chance that's happening!"Consumers" with real dedicated home theaters rooms aren't using AVR's at this low price point in the first place, or at most they're using them as preamps.
It'd be great if Pioneer/Onkyo added "Use as a preamp for best results" on their box but no chance that's happening!"Consumers" with real dedicated home theaters rooms aren't using AVR's at this low price point in the first place, or at most they're using them as preamps.
Actually, Pioneer does indicate in the manual that an external power amp might be needed, at page 60 of the manual:It'd be great if Pioneer/Onkyo added "Use as a preamp for best results" on their box but no chance that's happening!
Interesting. I wonder if a similar statement is made in the RZ50 manual?Actually, Pioneer does indicate in the manual that an external power amp might be needed, at page 60 of the manual:
"You can connect a power amplifier to the unit and use the unit as a pre-amplifier
in order to produce a large volume that cannot be output with the unit only."
True, they don't emphasize it, but then again, it is helpful to look in the manual before purchasing. I know that I did, and that I understood from the section on the pre-amp outputs that I might need a power amp. Also, to get surround back a power amp is required.
The shutdown symptoms happened when running into a 4 ohm load - the rating is at 8 ohm load, the spec sheet has FTC rating only for 8ohm... so you aren't exactly comparing apples and apples!Hard to say, since Amir measured the unit ABOVE its rated capability at 144 watts. The manufacturer's FTC rating is 120 watts with two channels driven. It might have been informative to know when the unit actually engages its protection circuitry. Does it happen at 144 watts continuous, 120 watts, 60 watts, etc.? We may never know.
Edit: Looking more closely, it's worse than I thought. Amir actually measured the unit at +2dB. There might be a reason they set 0 to 0.
It isn't the 4 ohm that is the problem, it's the dip at crossover, where the speaker goes down to below 2 ohm... quite a few speakers do that, but it is by no means the norm.Interesting. I wonder if a similar statement is made in the RZ50 manual?
With so many speakers having a nominal 4 ohm resistance, it's nearly a requirement to have external amplification these days!
No, Amir showed nanny circuitry throttling with 144 watts into 8 ohms. The problem is 144 watts is higher than the manufacturer's spec, so it's irrelevant to the FTC. Also, the manual states 1V as preamp output, but Amir showed excellent preamp performance at twice this specification.The shutdown symptoms happened when running into a 4 ohm load - the rating is at 8 ohm load, the spec sheet has FTC rating only for 8ohm... so you aren't exactly comparing apples and apples!
Yes... Integra technical assured me that it was capable of 2V... and Amir's measurements showed it goes way beyond that!No, Amir showed nanny circuitry throttling with 144 watts into 8 ohms. The problem is 144 watts is higher than the manufacturer's spec, so it's irrelevant to the FTC. Also, the manual states 1V as preamp output, but Amir showed excellent preamp performance at twice this specification.