• Welcome to ASR. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

Douk A5 Budget Stereo Amplifier Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 3 1.1%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 38 14.1%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 147 54.6%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 81 30.1%

  • Total voters
    269
Interesting observation on the A5:

Since the amp gets pretty hot with 48V and the turn off pop kinda bothered me, I tried the supplied 32V Nobsound brick and noticed it has ZERO turn off pop and while running barely luke warm!

So if you use the A5 for PC audio where it's on for extended periods I would recommend running it at 32V unless you REALLY need more power, it could also be my generic 48V brick causing the pop but I did see Amir showing ON and OFF pop with the 32V brick in the review whereas I only get the OFF pop with a generic 48V brick and none with the 32V. Weird but I'll take it.
 
A5 Pro is now available...
The A5 PRO builds on the strengths of the A5, featuring upgraded Bluetooth 5.1 connectivity with a reset button, bass and treble knobs for precise tone adjustments, and a headphone output. It delivers clear, powerful audio, perfect for diverse uses from bedroom movies to desktop setups.

NB : what a pity, does not support LDAC !



SUC-A5-PRO_1_847x847.jpg
 
A5 Pro is now available...
The A5 PRO builds on the strengths of the A5, featuring upgraded Bluetooth 5.1 connectivity with a reset button, bass and treble knobs for precise tone adjustments, and a headphone output. It delivers clear, powerful audio, perfect for diverse uses from bedroom movies to desktop setups.

NB : what a pity, does not support LDAC !


It would have been nice if they kept the HP crossover knob with the pro.....
 
It would have been nice if they kept the HP crossover knob with the pro.....
The model with bass management was more Pro than this one. Names got flipped!

Unless they further improved the actual performance of the A5 Pro over the standard one...which I don't see being the case.

-Ed
 
The model with bass management was more Pro than this one. Names got flipped!

Unless they further improved the actual performance of the A5 Pro over the standard one...which I don't see being the case.

-Ed
For companies like Douk Audio, Fosi Audio, AIYIMA, and others, "Pro" doesn't mean "Professional."
It comes from the Latin prefix “Pro”, which in this context means something like higher-level device. You could also call it a successor device

However, for these companies this usually only means that additional bass/treble controls and other additional functions are installed, often at the expense of other valuable details.
 
"Pro" doesn't mean "Professional."
It comes from the Latin prefix “Pro”, which in this context means something like higher-level device.
In established companies, this is marked Mk I, Mk II... or with SE (special edition). ;)
 
In established companies, this is marked Mk I, Mk II... or with SE (special edition). ;)
But for established companies, this usually means an improvement, or at least not a deterioration.
The famous Anniversary Edition would be another example.
 
Does anyone know if the volume knob on the douk a5 comes off?

This is kinda silly but I wanna see if the orange fosi v3 knob will fit on (for a bit of contrast between the hpf and vol :p). I've been pulling on it for a while now and can't seem it get it to budge, and am a bit worried about breaking something just in case it's glued on or something
 
Does anyone know if the volume knob on the douk a5 comes off?

This is kinda silly but I wanna see if the orange fosi v3 knob will fit on (for a bit of contrast between the hpf and vol :p). I've been pulling on it for a while now and can't seem it get it to budge, and am a bit worried about breaking something just in case it's glued on or something
Check if there's a set screw somewhere on the knob that you need to loosen.
Otherwise you have to pull it off completely straight, or use plastic to pry it evenly and straight.
Under no circumstances should it wobble or anything like that, as this will damage the pot and the button.
 
But this was a big improvement over the proposed standard, which I believe was in 2020. It was to allow manufacturers to state their output power at will, similar to the 10% ratings that you see now.

This standandard was essentially a return to the 1974 standard, which was 20 to 20khz at whatever distortion was specified, and we're talking continuous power, both channels driven, not an imaginary peal power. One percent is pretty high, but this is an attempt to return to the old standard and a big improvement over what has been willy-nilly ratings since the beginning of the computer Era, the AV Receiver Era, and the era of manufacturing outside of the US (non-existent now) and Japan (almost non-existent). The products coming from China have been especially notorious about this until the last 7 years or so? The old Japanese giants like Sony, tend to manufacture in Malaysia or, now, even Vietnam, where the standards are or have been a little bit higher than in China. Look at an inexpensive stereo receiver by Sony on Amazon, and you will see that the specs are decent. Not so much for AV Receivers, which often spec at 10%.

Sincerely,

Rusk Reeder
 
Few initial thoughts on the A5 after first few days. It sounds different than V3, but I need more time to formulate an opinion on differences. I'm using wharfedale diamonds 10.7 and decided to try the Douk to check whether highs will be different. Not sure yet. What I can say is that the "warm tips" sticker, holding the transparent flap, is appropriate, as this little thing runs much warmer than V3. It's around 46 degrees Celsius, so 25 above ambient. I think it's hotter when playing with lower volumes. When it plays louder, it's a little cooler. Is it possible?
I'm using a 48/10 supply, the same as with the V3. It can also get slightly warm, especially when idle, but not so much (so I actually never felt the need to measure it, now I will of course).

Edit: no audible pops, only internal clicks when turning on/off, or when the HPF is enabled/disabled.
 
Last edited:
Ahem. Gotta be that guy and ask about the unidentifiable object I espy on the top of this redoubtable little amplifier?

1743253960223.png


Is that factory-installed, or an aftermarket tweak? Resonance control? EMI/EFI snubber? PRaT enhancer? Does it give blacker backgrounds, or more breathy immediacy? How many veils does it lift?
Inquiring minds want to know!
:cool: ;)

Just joshin' - of course! - it is an adorable little package! I do wonder about why (other than for show) one would want the high-pass filter cutoff adjustment on the front panel -- but other than that, it looks (literally and figuratively) like a great product.

EDIT: Well, dang. It's just the warm tips. Such a lost opportunity. :D
warm tips.jpg
 
Last edited:
It does not, but the amp gets hot to the touch with the 48V supply, even when idle.
That seems odd (to me). Does this make sense, given the operating parameter for pulse-width modulation amplifiers? Is there something else going on (e.g., upstream of the power amplifier) to explain the heat - or am I just too naive?

Robust little bugger.
Time will tell. :)
 
That seems odd (to me). Does this make sense, given the operating parameter for pulse-width modulation amplifiers?

Not sure, I hadn't opened the amp to see where the heat came from (amp chip or something else). I might do that once out of warranty. It could be linear voltage regulators having to burn more power, or something like that.

Is there something else going on (e.g., upstream of the power amplifier) to explain the heat - or am I just too naive?

Upstream is just a DAC (SU-1). Downstream is a 6 ohm subwoofer driver in a sealed cabinet.
 
Last edited:
Not sure, I hadn't opened the amp to see where the heat came from (amp chip or something else). I might do that once out of warranty. It could be linear voltage regulators having to burn more power, or something like that.



Upstream is just a DAC (SU-1). Downstream is a 6 ohm subwoofer driver in a sealed cabinet.
By upstream I meant the preamp/driver section of the amplifier itself (as opposed to the Class D/PWM amp chipset/board) - I am guessing (???????) that the 'front end' of the Douk component operates in Class A (i.e., single ended/linear) and isn't just passive -- but I don't know! :facepalm:
 
Back
Top Bottom