NAD C 298 Power Amplifier With Purifi Eigentakt Amplification

[NYfan2]

Can any of you provide an accurate measurement of the height (length) of these connectors excluding the inserted plug itself? I am currently using the BlueJeans?Benchmark bananas but they are too long for the the back door that covers my connection panel to close.

Here are some pics. Measurement are metric so cm.

Overall length: 47 mm => 1 27/32 inch
Length when inserted: 34mm => 1 11/32 inch
Width: 29mm => 1 9/64 inch

 

[Kal Rubinson]

Here are some pics. Measurement are metric so cm.

View attachment 193255View attachment 193256View attachment 193257View attachment 193258

Overall length: 47 mm => 1 27/32 inch
Length when inserted: 34mm => 1 11/32 inch
Width: 29mm => 1 9/64 inch

Thanks so much. Unfortunately, it seems too long for me. Guess I really do need a 90deg device.

 

[peng]

Thanks. Those are exact measurements but they do not include the one dimension that is critical to me. From other docs, these are too long. The 0645 is closer to my needs. http://www.wbtusa.com/pdf/0645.pdf

However, I am really interested in these "alternative" brands or, even better, a 90deg version!

Just curious, what do you intend to use that for? For me, I would use them with my Purifi Eval1 amp that only comes with banana sockets, no binding post. So I thought if I plug in the locking pin banana it would be a more secure connection that I can leave it on forever, though it would also mean adding another connection point with my banana plug speaker cable on top. It's too bad the Eval1 don't come with standard binding posts.

 

[freemansteve]

Thanks so much. Unfortunately, it seems too long for me. Guess I really do need a 90deg device.

Loads of 90 deg ones on amazon....

 

[Kal Rubinson]

Just curious, what do you intend to use that for?

Revel Ultima2 Studio speakers. They have a door that covers the rear panel with the multiway posts and controls. Unfortunately, it does not allow much clearance for the connections.

Loads of 90 deg ones on amazon....

Any locking ones? All the ones I've seen (and some I've purchased) are pretty crappy.

 

[pablolie]

Any locking ones? All the ones I've seen (and some I've purchased) are pretty crappy.

Me too, never found good ones. I think right angle terminations work best in most cases btw. Not sure why most are straight.

 

[minus3dB]

VTV AMPLIFIER Stereo Purifi Audio 1ET400A Amplifier | VTV Amplifier

The C298 is rated at 340 watts in 4 ohms and the VTV is rated at 425 watts in to 4 ohms. They both have the Purifi technology in them. NAD licensed the Purifi tech and built their own implementation (which could explain the power difference) and VTV buys the Purifi 1ET400A modules and installs them in a case with a Hypex power supply and Input Buffer board.

The 425W rating is straight off the Purifi spec sheet. It's "short term" (i.e., non-continuous) at 1% THD.

NAD's 340W spec is continuous at 0.1% THD.

In two separate test reports on the NAD it hits ~525W into 4R driven by CEA 2010 burst signals at 1% THD. That's closer to an apples-apples comparison.

Continuous, it put out about 275 W into 8R and 475 into 4R.

 

[Mehdiem]

I got my C298 today. As much as I’m impressed with the sound, I have some issues with on/off functions as follows:

- unit automatically shuts off no matter what I do (despite the fact that I turn off the auto shut-off mode, as per described on the manual “press and hold for 15+ sec”. I get confirmation 2 blinks)
- when the trigger cable is connected power button doesn’t work.
- when the trigger or not connect I should press the power button twice to turn on the unit. If I press once it shows me the amber light, and once more the red light. I don’t understand what is this red light?
- auto-sense (on and off) doesn’t work as per described in the manual “press and hold for 10-15 sec”: I press and hold and after11sec when I leave it, I see the bridge light blinking 4 times. And nothing else happens
- when I turn on the unit I hear a very subtle popping (cracking) click/noise from my speaker. (It’s not a constant noise, it’s an instant). I wonder if this could harm my speakers? Do you experience the same popping noise?

My unit must be the latest production run, as it just arrived in the country (Canada) and the dealer called me to pick it up.


Please share your experience with me.

 

[amper42]

You are not the only one having issues with NAD C298 auto shut off. I would return the unit for a refund while you can. Get the Audiophonics HPA-S400ET, March Audio P452 or the Buckeye Purifi, if you want a Purifi amp that works without problems.

 

[airgas1998]

I got my C298 today. As much as I’m impressed with the sound, I have some issues with on/off functions as follows:

- unit automatically shuts off no matter what I do (despite the fact that I turn off the auto shut-off mode, as per described on the manual “press and hold for 15+ sec”. I get confirmation 2 blinks)
- when the trigger cable is connected power button doesn’t work.
- when the trigger or not connect I should press the power button twice to turn on the unit. If I press once it shows me the amber light, and once more the red light. I don’t understand what is this red light?
- auto-sense (on and off) doesn’t work as per described in the manual “press and hold for 10-15 sec”: I press and hold and after11sec when I leave it, I see the bridge light blinking 4 times. And nothing else happens
- when I turn on the unit I hear a very subtle popping (cracking) click/noise from my speaker. (It’s not a constant noise, it’s an instant). I wonder if this could harm my speakers? Do you experience the same popping noise?

My unit must be the latest production run, as it just arrived in the country (Canada) and the dealer called me to pick it up.


Please share your experience with me.

i didn't have this issue, but it did slightly hum, and i didn't hear much of a difference with this amp compared to others and the avr...back it went...imo....way overpriced if you're paying 2200.00msrp for it...

 

[pablolie]

I have been frustrated by NAD's "new age" power buttons and power management. The "contact touch" buttons on the M22, D7050 and D3020 are about the worst and most frustrating I have ever dealt with. Very erratic behavior. The M22 worked like a charm with detecting a signal though. I disabled any resemblance of "intelligent" power saving feature in any NAD device mentioned above. And sometimes they stop working altogether. I have thrown away 2 D7050s and needed to get the M22 fixed.

 

[Mehdiem]

i didn't have this issue, but it did slightly hum, and i didn't hear much of a difference with this amp compared to others and the avr...back it went...imo....way overpriced if you're paying 2200.00msrp for it...

I got it at a discounted price from a dealer, about $1850 USB. I considered other alternatives before, but this seemed to be the only one that I can use as a mono block if I later want to upgrade my speakers. The other choice didn’t seem to offer this. I also thought this would have a better residual value and I can sell it faster if I plan any upgrade in the future. I contacted my dealer to see what are my altenatives. I hope it can be fixed with a firmware update. Otherwise, I don’t know what should I do. I am in love with the sound. Compared to my old Yamaha RN602, makes a day and night difference.

 

[pablolie]

I got it at a discounted price from a dealer, about $1850 USB. I considered other alternatives before, but this seemed to be the only one that I can use as a mono block if I later want to upgrade my speakers. The other choice didn’t seem to offer this. I also thought this would have a better residual value and I can sell it faster if I plan any upgrade in the future. I contacted my dealer to see what are my altenatives. I hope it can be fixed with a firmware update. Otherwise, I don’t know what should I do. I am in love with the sound. Compared to my old Yamaha RN602, makes a day and night difference.

I have considered that device or the C399 repeatedly. Spec wise they seem spectacular devices that do exactly what I would like. But yeah, it's the quality details. Damn touch power buttons and their malfunctions. I needed to get the M22 fixed. So - not yet.

 

[freemansteve]

Me too, never found good ones. I think right angle terminations work best in most cases btw. Not sure why most are straight.

Locking ones? What for - are you tripping over wires?
The 90 deg ones I've got need plenty of force to push in or out of the terminals on my amp, and won't budge just by pulling the cable.

 

[Kal Rubinson]

The 90 deg ones I've got need plenty of force to push in or out of the terminals on my amp, and won't budge just by pulling the cable.

Picture or link?

 

[pogo]

Here are the first M23 measurements and sound impressions: Link

If it already sounds better than the C298, a comparison to a T+A A200 would also be very interesting. Can it beat it?

 

[MaxBuck]

Here are the first M23 measurements and sound impressions: Link

If it already sounds better than the C298, a comparison to a T+A A200 would also be very interesting. Can it beat it?

If you want to believe it does, then it does.

If you have no interest in "comparing the sound of amplifiers that have very good performance," then it doesn't.

 

[Kal Rubinson]

Here are the first M23 measurements and sound impressions: Link

Measurements? I did not see any except for a few words about power output. Was there more than that?

 

[pogo]

Yes, there were a few displayed as well. But there will probably not be any measurement reports from them, as some others do. But they also had nothing to complain about, quite the opposite.

 

[Kal Rubinson]

Yes, there were a few displayed as well. But there will probably not be any measurement reports from them, as some others do. But they also had nothing to complain about, quite the opposite.

Thanks. I tend to fast-forward through YouTubes as the majority of them test my patience and would have missed a brief mention.