Yamaha RX-V6A 7.2 channel 4K / 8K Dolby AV Receiver Review

[infinitesymphony]

Hi, I'm a new subscriber (this site is great and thank you @amirm for great testing and info) but here's some anecdotal perspective based on having own the Yamaha RX-V6A for a few weeks now. I only use it for 2 channel audio currently.

What's interesting is that I find from my subjective listing comparison that there's a huge sound quality difference between three following set-ups with this Yamaha unit. In each scenario below I used A130's for nearfield listening at 8 ft away in my garage. WiFi turned off on unit. Unit is set to Pure Direct in each case below. I've used same gain setting in each scenario, same reference material.

Scenario 1. Source = Qobuz HiRes with Volumio. Setup is CAT 5E cable out from router>RPi (no HiFi hat)>USB to Topping E30>RCA out to analogue input on RX-V6A - soundstage and imaging just OK to my ears. Soundstage width does not really extend.

Scenario 2. Source = Qobuz HiRes using Qobuz app on desktop. Setup is USB cable out from Gigabyte Aorus Gaming 3 soundcard>USB to Topping E30>RCA out to analogue input on RX-V6A - soundstage and imaging same as #1 but slightly punchier bass.

Scenario 3. Source = Qobuz HiRes with mConnect while streaming (which allows gapless playback compared to Musiccast). Setup is CAT 5E cable out from router>directly into Ethernet port on RX-V6A. In this setup I find huge and noticeable increase in SQ. Soundstage extends oftentimes 6 ft beyond each speaker. Much better imaging. Vocals, bass and percussion seem to be perfectly centered between the A130's. Bass much more punchy.

I can't really explain the above. I would assume that based on @amirm's testing that the Topping E30 has a better DAC than the one's inside the RX-V6A. I'm guessing that in scenario 1 HiFi hat may improve the sound to be more like scenario 3, but I'm not sure why scenario 2 would be inferior to scenario 3.

Lower objective performance, more harmonic distortion, etc. don't necessarily sound bad subjectively. If you find that the RX-V6A sounds substantially different than DACs that measure far better, it may mean the RX-V6A is modifying the signal in a way that is not transparent. Depending on your speakers, room, and personal preferences, you may find one or the other to sound better.

Is it possible that you were not testing at a calibrated in-room SPL? You mention that you left the gain the same in each test, which I'm assuming is the setting on the receiver, but this would not have accounted for the differences in output voltage between devices. You will need to use a SPL meter (an iPhone works great) or mic+software to calibrate each device to hit the same dB at the same spot using test material (tone or noise) in order to make the test fair. Loudness is a massive factor in perception and even 1-2 dB can make a difference.

What the hell with pre out voltag can't even manage 1 volt?

Goes up to 2V, best performance at around 0.5V.

 

[dougi]

Lower objective performance, more harmonic distortion, etc. don't necessarily sound bad subjectively. If you find that the RX-V6A sounds substantially different than DACs that measure far better, it may mean the RX-V6A is modifying the signal in a way that is not transparent. Depending on your speakers, room, and personal preferences, you may find one or the other to sound better.

Is it possible that you were not testing at a calibrated in-room SPL? You mention that you left the gain the same in each test, which I'm assuming is the setting on the receiver, but this would not have accounted for the differences in output voltage between devices. You will need to use a SPL meter (an iPhone works great) or mic+software to calibrate each device to hit the same dB at the same spot using test material (tone or noise) in order to make the test fair. Loudness is a massive factor in perception and even 1-2 dB can make a difference.


Goes up to 2V, best performance at around 0.5V.

Don't forget that 0.5V out corresponds to about -10dB FS at 0 volume. Like most AVRs, it will calibrate to 0dBFS at 0 volume, giving you 105dBSPL at the listening position for each speaker if there is enough amp power. Hence 0.5V will give you 95dBSPL for each speaker at the LP. This is likely to be more than enough for most people and the internal amplifiers themselves won't give you much more before clipping. (eg 85dBSPL@1m speakers at 4m distance will give you 73dBSPL at the LP for 1W, 95dBSPL will require 160W)

 

[AdamG]

Hi, I'm a new subscriber (this site is great and thank you @amirm for great testing and info) but here's some anecdotal perspective based on having own the Yamaha RX-V6A for a few weeks now. I only use it for 2 channel audio currently.

What's interesting is that I find from my subjective listing comparison that there's a huge sound quality difference between three following set-ups with this Yamaha unit. In each scenario below I used A130's for nearfield listening at 8 ft away in my garage. WiFi turned off on unit. Unit is set to Pure Direct in each case below. I've used same gain setting in each scenario, same reference material.

Scenario 1. Source = Qobuz HiRes with Volumio. Setup is CAT 5E cable out from router>RPi (no HiFi hat)>USB to Topping E30>RCA out to analogue input on RX-V6A - soundstage and imaging just OK to my ears. Soundstage width does not really extend.

Scenario 2. Source = Qobuz HiRes using Qobuz app on desktop. Setup is USB cable out from Gigabyte Aorus Gaming 3 soundcard>USB to Topping E30>RCA out to analogue input on RX-V6A - soundstage and imaging same as #1 but slightly punchier bass.

Scenario 3. Source = Qobuz HiRes with mConnect while streaming (which allows gapless playback compared to Musiccast). Setup is CAT 5E cable out from router>directly into Ethernet port on RX-V6A. In this setup I find huge and noticeable increase in SQ. Soundstage extends oftentimes 6 ft beyond each speaker. Much better imaging. Vocals, bass and percussion seem to be perfectly centered between the A130's. Bass much more punchy.

I can't really explain the above. I would assume that based on @amirm's testing that the Topping E30 has a better DAC than the one's inside the RX-V6A. I'm guessing that in scenario 1 HiFi hat may improve the sound to be more like scenario 3, but I'm not sure why scenario 2 would be inferior to scenario 3.

Welcome Aboard @Thedog

 

[tailspin]

Just bought the TSR-700 at Costco for $399. I'm likely going to upgrade to a 9 or 11 channel receiver and in-ceiling speakers within a few years so I don't need it to last 10+ years like my old RX-V657. I doubt there's a better bang for the buck out there and I needed to buy one now. I have purchased pre-owned receivers on eBay and they always had issues so I'm not doing that again. I would need to spend at least $800 to get something noticeably better and that's twice the price.

 

[AdamG]

Just bought the TSR-700 at Costco for $399. I'm likely going to upgrade to a 9 or 11 channel receiver and in-ceiling speakers within a few years so I don't need it to last 10+ years like my old RX-V657. I doubt there's a better bang for the buck out there and I needed to buy one now. I have purchased pre-owned receivers on eBay and they always had issues so I'm not doing that again. I would need to spend at least $800 to get something noticeably better and that's twice the price.

Welcome Aboard @tailspin.

 

[dougi]

Has anyone with this AVR noticed issues with centre channel setup levels when they have had a deep dive? Using the in-built test tones and a calibrated SPL meter it all measures fine. However, if I generate sweeps or noise with REW using HDMI from the laptop and measure the channels the centre is about 3dB higher than the others. This is under otherwise similar conditions.

 

[Spkrdctr]

Is there any wonder why people are buying sound bars so often? All you need is decent sound at a decently loud level. At $600 you are not paying for anything. People want Yamaha to give them a free AVR. If it cost $999.00 or more with this performance than yes, screeching and howling would be appropriate. It is a bottom level AVR with most of the bells and whistles to make it sell. Remember people were paying $1200 or more for Bose cube systems 20 years ago with no bells and whistles and no real performance. If you can't afford much, this is what you get. I should know, I can't afford much!

 

[BN1]

Looks like it'll serve my purposes very well but I'll wait until they work the bugs out of the height virtualization. YPAO will be an upgrade from my RX-A660 as well as a bit more power. Primary usage is HT and I just don't have the listening skills that you folks seem to have.

 

[dougi]

Looks like it'll serve my purposes very well but I'll wait until they work the bugs out of the height virtualization. YPAO will be an upgrade from my RX-A660 as well as a bit more power. Primary usage is HT and I just don't have the listening skills that you folks seem to have.

I, stupidly, have the RX-A2A Adventage version. At least it looks nice and clean, unlike most AVRs. I use it for basic 5.1 HT only. YPAO sets levels well and shapes the response a bit but does nothing for room modes. Luckily I have other devices for that. With an older TV perhaps the casue I do find HDMI switching on it hit and miss. I often have to turn HDMI off on the AVR, wait, then turn it on again to get the picture back.

 

[aarons915]

So I just saw the Costco version of this(TSR-700) is $399 and I have been looking for an HDMI 2.1 receiver with decent amps to replace my Denon 3500H. The frequency response with the DSP and crossovers in place would be a deal breaker for me but I actually do all my bass management and PEQ through Equalizer APO and run my receiver in direct mode so that is actually fine with me. My question is does anyone think some of the negatives of this receiver would be audible? I see a lot of measurements of analog or coaxial inputs but I would think 99% of people just use HDMI inputs with the internal amplifiers. I was also just looking up a post on the DIY forum about a blind test where no one could distinguish between a $30 and a $3000 DAC so it makes me wonder if the low SINAD numbers even matter in real listening. What do you guys think, buy it or wait for a better one? My TV isn't HDMI 2.1 yet so that won't matter but eventually I'm going to need an HDMI 2.1 receiver.

 

[Spkrdctr]

So I just saw the Costco version of this(TSR-700) is $399 and I have been looking for an HDMI 2.1 receiver with decent amps to replace my Denon 3500H. The frequency response with the DSP and crossovers in place would be a deal breaker for me but I actually do all my bass management and PEQ through Equalizer APO and run my receiver in direct mode so that is actually fine with me. My question is does anyone think some of the negatives of this receiver would be audible? I see a lot of measurements of analog or coaxial inputs but I would think 99% of people just use HDMI inputs with the internal amplifiers. I was also just looking up a post on the DIY forum about a blind test where no one could distinguish between a $30 and a $3000 DAC so it makes me wonder if the low SINAD numbers even matter in real listening. What do you guys think, buy it or wait for a better one? My TV isn't HDMI 2.1 yet so that won't matter but eventually I'm going to need an HDMI 2.1 receiver.

Buy it and enjoy it. It will sound fantastic! Do NOT worry about the DAC as it is not all that important in the big picture. Speaker placement, room treatments and Room EQ are your big three areas for sound improvement and control. DAC? Not even worth mentioning unless you have a 15 year old DAC inside a 15 year old receiver.

 

[Musty]

Considering this is only the first wave of HDMI 2.1 AVRs, this Yamaha is the only thing in its price range that can do HDMI 2.1 (assuming the bug gets fixed). Your closest competitor right now is the Denon AVR-X2700H, which suffers from the same bug.

I would say you have two options:

• Amir has not yet reviewed the Denon AVR-X2700H specifically, but he had a favorable review of the Denon AVR-X3700H. If you can afford the X2700H, it might be similar enough to also warrant a recommendation? No promises. Pray that the bug gets fixed. Also no promises there.
• If you already have an AVR, keep using that until something decent comes out next year and the bugs are fixed. Plug the XBox directly into the TV, and then send the audio out of the TV to your current AVR using ARC or Toslink or something.

I suggest the second option. Sadly, for me, I'm going with the Costco deal on the RX-V6A (TSR-700). My 4k projector doesn't have ARC and my old AVR is limited to 1080p. I've been hobbling along using my HTPC to split the video and audio into two directions but it's a pain. Time for me to get a real AVR, and I hate paying for AVRs. I'm personally thrilled that this cheap POS got as good of a rating as it did! My speakers are nothing to brag about, so the RX-V6A will be fine.

I've got a Yamaha RX-V671 which I bought in 2012 and is OK for my purpose but I want to replace my speakers, Kef iQ7, which I've had since 2007 and are looking very battered now; their shape makes them a bit unstable and they are prone to crash to the ground once in a while (still function well, bi-amped to the aforementioned VCR) and I should probably get a new amp if I do that.

This Yamaha and the X2700H you mention are about the same price here (UK)

https://www.richersounds.com/tv-home-cinema/av-receivers.html

and I've been wondering about one or the other, mainly due to affordability but the X2700H doesn't have pre-output and I think I'd like that feature. The one reviewed here allegedly has but the review has put me off and now I'm left dithering as usual.

Edit (15 June): I just had a look at the manual for the X2700H and it does have "Zone 2" pre-out for connection to an external amp, which I suppose could be used to drive the front speakers with a better amp. My current AVR only sends analogue sources to the "Zone 2" pre-out. The Denon manual doesn't say anything either way so I assume digital sources would be OK.

 

[3dbinCanada]

I've got a Yamaha RX-V671 which I bought in 2012 and is OK for my purpose but I want to replace my speakers, Kef iQ7, which I've had since 2007 and are looking very battered now; their shape makes them a bit unstable and they are prone to crash to the ground once in a while (still function well, bi-amped to the aforementioned VCR) and I should probably get a new amp if I do that.

This Yamaha and the X2700H you mention are about the same price here (UK)

https://www.richersounds.com/tv-home-cinema/av-receivers.html

and I've been wondering about one or the other, mainly due to affordability but the X2700H doesn't have pre-output and I think I'd like that feature. The one reviewed here allegedly has but the review has put me off and now I'm left dithering as usual.

Edit (15 June): I just had a look at the manual for the X2700H and it does have "Zone 2" pre-out for connection to an external amp, which I suppose could be used to drive the front speakers with a better amp. My current AVR only sends analogue sources to the "Zone 2" pre-out. The Denon manual doesn't say anything either way so I assume digital sources would be OK.

Dont assume. Download the manual, read it, and be certain.

 

[Musty]

Dont assume. Download the manual, read it, and be certain.

It's good advice, I did do that but didn't read the whole manual all the way through. The info in the section on Zone 2 pre-outs is very scant so we can't be certain it'll work and I certainly wouldn't buy the thing without knowing for sure. The manual simply states:
(heading) "Connection 2 : Connection using an external amplifier (ZONE2)"
(Text) "The audio signals of this unit’s ZONE2 audio output connectors are output to the ZONE2 amplifiers and played on these amplifiers".
That's it.

 

[somebodyelse]

Edit (15 June): I just had a look at the manual for the X2700H and it does have "Zone 2" pre-out for connection to an external amp, which I suppose could be used to drive the front speakers with a better amp. My current AVR only sends analogue sources to the "Zone 2" pre-out. The Denon manual doesn't say anything either way so I assume digital sources would be OK.

You may want to check what DAC they're using for that Zone 2. On the higher models they're using a lesser DAC for Zone 2 than for the mains.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...vr-x4700-avr-review-updated.14493/post-447674

 

[Musty]

You may want to check what DAC they're using for that Zone 2. On the higher models they're using a lesser DAC for Zone 2 than for the mains.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...vr-x4700-avr-review-updated.14493/post-447674

Ugh! No surprises there. I guess it wouldn't matter with a higher model because they have pre-out for all the channels. Is there even a need for a zone 2 pre-out with all the wireless connectivity these things have?

 

[somebodyelse]

Ugh! No surprises there. I guess it wouldn't matter with a higher model because they have pre-out for all the channels. Is there even a need for a zone 2 pre-out with all the wireless connectivity these things have?

If anything the wireless capability probably makes it more useful as it's now easier to control from the other room/zone. We've had questions here from people with wiring built into the house for speakers in other rooms, so it's something some subset of users want, even if I'm not one of them.

 

[3dbinCanada]

It's good advice, I did do that but didn't read the whole manual all the way through. The info in the section on Zone 2 pre-outs is very scant so we can't be certain it'll work and I certainly wouldn't buy the thing without knowing for sure. The manual simply states:
(heading) "Connection 2 : Connection using an external amplifier (ZONE2)"
(Text) "The audio signals of this unit’s ZONE2 audio output connectors are output to the ZONE2 amplifiers and played on these amplifiers".
That's it.

Dont you just love how in depth some of these manuals go.

 

[3dbinCanada]

Ugh! No surprises there. I guess it wouldn't matter with a higher model because they have pre-out for all the channels. Is there even a need for a zone 2 pre-out with all the wireless connectivity these things have?

Yes. I use zones 2 and 3 for tape out for my cassette decks so that I can record to cassette.

 

[dougi]

DC or some burst on pre-outs when switching audio settings?
To cut a long story shortish I have been trying various buffers on the front pre-outs of this AVR. My preamp has a lowish input impedance (10k) and the performance of the AVR pre-outs is then even worse for THD at high pre-out levels (Measured with RME ADI-2 PRO with similar input impedance, 62dB at high dBFS). Using a buffer helps but may create other problems. Anyway I tracked down an old iFI i-tube V1 which just arrived. (there is a new V2 version that doesn't seem in stock anywhere).

I hooked it up and there was dreadful popping whenever you did anything with audio settings or inputs apart from adjust volume. The AVR uses a PCM1502A DAC which claims it does not need output coupling capacitors. Looking at the datasheet it looks like it has an "advanced mute" which will mute when there is loss of input. sync. I think it does this when you change settings, inputs etc and it must then create DC or something for a bit. I tried to measure with a mulitimeter and when switching I pickup a 0.05mV DC bump most of the time. Not enough to cause a problem but indicative that something is happening. I don't have a scope to be sure.

I put in a dodgy isolation transformer and it solved the problem. The AVR direct into the preamp doesn't have the issue so it must be related to the iTube input stage. THe output stage is AC coupled I believe as the V2 iTube advertised that it had removed the output couplers. SIgh, I may have to give up or put in some coupling capacitors. THis is only a theoretical issue really as I don't use the AVR above -20dBFS where the DAC performance is OK into the preamp.