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Check out post #11553. It appears the "limp mode" is occurring prior to the latest firmware and after and oddly one poster states the AVR recovers w/o unplugging the unit to return to normal output mode, even prior to the update. Strange indeed.
That is pretty much what I experienced and also confirmed with a watt meter. As long as temps drops below 61c it seems to recover full power, pulling the plug may help the temp to drop faster.
It's quite possible that the latest firmware no longer requires unplugging the AVR and plugging back in to get out of limp mode. Now, it's simply on temperature permissive control!
It's possible or the temp was still above 60c when others had tested it thinking it would stay in limp mode until unplugged but maybe waiting longer would have brought it back out. Or it could react differently when benching it versus a more real world use.
My biggest issue is that the fan doesn't seem to kick on until around the point where the power is already being limited and there is no indication the power is being limited at all, not in the web interface/app/front panel. I think by the time the power is being limited the fan should probably be running at high speed for quicker recovery.
It's possible or the temp was still above 60c when others had tested it thinking it would stay in limp mode until unplugged but maybe waiting longer would have brought it back out. Or it could react differently when benching it versus a more real world use.
My biggest issue is that the fan doesn't seem to kick on until around the point where the power is already being limited and there is no indication the power is being limited at all, not in the web interface/app/front panel. I think by the time the power is being limited the fan should probably be running at high speed for quicker recovery.
I find it odd that some folks in AVS are praising how cool in temp the RZ50 is! I tend not to trust a Class A/B amp when it doesn't get a bit warm to the touch!
Probably some of those folks are listening to degraded audio and don't even know it!
I find it odd that some folks in AVS are praising how cool in temp the RZ50 is! I tend not to trust a Class A/B amp when it doesn't get a bit warm to the touch!
Probably some of those folks are listening to degraded audio and don't even know it!
I feel like the power limiting is probably too aggressive. 60 deg c seems too low to start limiting power especially with the fan on LOW - just a few years ago Onkyo was allowing components run 80c+ with no heatsinks. I guess they didn't want so many failures this time around.
Most users with lighter loads will probably not hit those temps unless it's in a poorly ventilated cabinet.
I find it odd that some folks in AVS are praising how cool in temp the RZ50 is! I tend not to trust a Class A/B amp when it doesn't get a bit warm to the touch!
Probably some of those folks are listening to degraded audio and don't even know it!
You might think so, but my previous generation Onkyo SR876 and Integra DTR70.4 got burning hot - and the heat was all on the processing boards/chips (HDMI, and DSP) - not on the power amp sections... which handled my difficult speakers without concern and without excess heat around the power amp heatsinks!!
This caused me to focus on heat on the processing circuits of the current generation, and at least on my example (Integra DRX3.4) the processing boards run admirably cool.
Given I have transferred the primary load of L/C/R onto external amps, my experience with the power amp section heatload, may not be indicative.... but it simply does not get hot. (driving a pair of B&O Penta's for full range surround duty, and 4x Gallo Nucleus Micro's for height - all of which are relatively easy load)
Even the very hot running previous generations of Onkyo AVR's had heat well controlled on the amp circuits (which were all Class AB) - my older (late 1980's) Quad 606 is a different class AB design, and has always run cool (the casing is the heatsink, and it gets no more than warm to the touch).
So in a sense I agree with you - it should get warm to the touch.... but no more!
If it gets seriously hot to the touch (anywhere over 50C... ) something is wrong!!
That is pretty much what I experienced and also confirmed with a watt meter. As long as temps drops below 61c it seems to recover full power, pulling the plug may help the temp to drop faster.
You might think so, but my previous generation Onkyo SR876 and Integra DTR70.4 got burning hot - and the heat was all on the processing boards/chips (HDMI, and DSP) - not on the power amp sections... which handled my difficult speakers without concern and without excess heat around the power amp heatsinks!!
This caused me to focus on heat on the processing circuits of the current generation, and at least on my example (Integra DRX3.4) the processing boards run admirably cool.
Given I have transferred the primary load of L/C/R onto external amps, my experience with the power amp section heatload, may not be indicative.... but it simply does not get hot. (driving a pair of B&O Penta's for full range surround duty, and 4x Gallo Nucleus Micro's for height - all of which are relatively easy load)
Even the very hot running previous generations of Onkyo AVR's had heat well controlled on the amp circuits (which were all Class AB) - my older (late 1980's) Quad 606 is a different class AB design, and has always run cool (the casing is the heatsink, and it gets no more than warm to the touch).
So in a sense I agree with you - it should get warm to the touch.... but no more!
If it gets seriously hot to the touch (anywhere over 50C... ) something is wrong!!
Not sure why the narrative in the AVS thread is completely ignoring the possibility that the over-temperature control IS causing the limp mode! Why is it impossible that a sudden surge of power requirement from low impedance also increases temperature?!!!
gregr is nearly at the conclusion that I've reached long ago but what he says is more well received so hopefully it gets to the logical conclusion eventually!
Not sure why the narrative in the AVS thread is completely ignoring the possibility that the over-temperature control IS causing the limp mode! Why is it impossible that a sudden surge of power requirement from low impedance also increases temperature?!!!
gregr is nearly at the conclusion that I've reached long ago but what he says is more well received so hopefully it gets to the logical conclusion eventually!
Only because there have been no other observations where temperature issues have coincided with limp/protection mode.... and that seems such an obvious combination that it seems almost beyond belief that the link has not been made before! (especially given that you can monitor the temperature via the web interface as well....)
Only because there have been no other observations where temperature issues have coincided with limp/protection mode.... and that seems such an obvious combination that it seems almost beyond belief that the link has not been made before! (especially given that you can monitor the temperature via the web interface as well....)
Almost... Until I saw that post on AVS I had no idea these would restrict power so hard at only 61c and wanted to test for myself - that would at least partially explain why they run so cool all the time. I do wonder if a thermal paste upgrade would help at all (higher w/mK) or if the heatsink is just a bit undersized.
I have an old Panasonic AVR in use and the fan won't even kick on until it reaches a certain volume level, at moderate volumes I wouldn't doubt that it could cook an egg without additional cooling.
Hey everyone, I recently got the RZ30 but will be returning it due to a persistent hissing noise when Dirac is enabled. I contacted support and tried various troubleshooting steps, but unfortunately, nothing worked. Looks like I ended up with a faulty unit.
On another note, I noticed the RZ50 is actually cheaper in some places now. Should I go ahead and pick that up instead?
Hey everyone, I recently got the RZ30 but will be returning it due to a persistent hissing noise when Dirac is enabled. I contacted support and tried various troubleshooting steps, but unfortunately, nothing worked. Looks like I ended up with a faulty unit.
On another note, I noticed the RZ50 is actually cheaper in some places now. Should I go ahead and pick that up instead?
If you don't need separate sub outs or if you need more internal amp power, probably. Although I've heard the 30 has upgraded HDMI boards which switch sources seamlessly but that is not confirmed AFAIK.
If you don't need separate sub outs or if you need more internal amp power, probably. Although I've heard the 30 has upgraded HDMI boards which switch sources seamlessly but that is not confirmed AFAIK.
Hey everyone, I recently got the RZ30 but will be returning it due to a persistent hissing noise when Dirac is enabled. I contacted support and tried various troubleshooting steps, but unfortunately, nothing worked. Looks like I ended up with a faulty unit.
On another note, I noticed the RZ50 is actually cheaper in some places now. Should I go ahead and pick that up instead?
Adorama in New York City is currently offering (via an affiliate link from Slickdeals) new samples of the Integra DRX-3.4 AVR with a five year warranty for $579. This AVR supports nine channels of processing. The subwoofer jacks are not independent and the Integra DRX-3.4 does not support DLBC or Dirac ART.
Hey everyone, I recently got the RZ30 but will be returning it due to a persistent hissing noise when Dirac is enabled. I contacted support and tried various troubleshooting steps, but unfortunately, nothing worked. Looks like I ended up with a faulty unit.
On another note, I noticed the RZ50 is actually cheaper in some places now. Should I go ahead and pick that up instead?