Thumb up for work there on filterset....I've put together a filterset for you with respect to all of Amir's data......
.....It flattens the direct sound, taking in account the side-wall reflection and overall in-room curve...
Thumb up for work there on filterset....I've put together a filterset for you with respect to all of Amir's data......
.....It flattens the direct sound, taking in account the side-wall reflection and overall in-room curve...
Thumb up for work there on filterset....
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Thanks and agree some of them are practical and often makes sense to better understanding or quality control and remember when Amir first time shared a couple of spindata in zip-folders i got high on what that Spinorama and few polars could present and thought it could be a dream if ones room and transducer system was acoustic analyzed and coupled up so that whatever setting in ones DSP that was altered then a flat panel with something visual ala above would predict the corrections made.Love those interactive graphs of yours!
System matching is just a myth. Two well engineered amps with same specs will sound the same, if not that means one of them or both are badly engineered.
At the time you connect your R3’s to a 200W nothing really magical will happen but you will be able to turn up the volume to pretty much any desirable volume and won’t feel the amp is holding you back.
As you already pointed out Orchestral music is your goal, usually this recordings are at much lower level/volume relative to 0dBs and have very high dynamic range, a powerful amplification will ensure you good performance during stressing passages/peaks. You always need a margin of power for headroom and low distortion, I really doubt people uses 300/400W amps at full volume inside houses with normal sensitivity speakers.
I suspect what’s been happening is that you enjoy turning up volume and have maxed out the 60W from your Rotel, so at full volume distortion goes up and headroom/dynamics are reduced. Have you ever pushed them to clip ?
In other words, IMO any company who tries to reinvent the wheel and design an amp themselves, but ends up shipping a product that is massively overpriced or massively underperforming vs state-of-the-art OEM modules from Hypex and Purifi, is nothing but a scam artist company. I give a free pass if it was a product released before Hypex modules existed. But I do not give a free pass if a company sells an underperforming overpriced amp just because their engineers felt some kind of pride factor in inventing the amplifier section themselves (NIH “not invented here” syndrome is a well known problem, but it’s not an excuse for shipping sub-par results).
There is absolutely no way for any self respecting engineer to justify doing amplifier design work unless the goal is for results that match or exceed Hypex for the money. That said, I feel sorry for engineers working at companies where such goal setting is not in their control.
Oh yeah absolutely, same here. If it wasn't for this site, there's no way I could navigate all the noise from subjective reviews and manufacturer marketing hype. After finding this site and using these measurements to guide me, I really have not made a single bad audio purchase ever again.@echopraxia I agree with what you said, but there is one caveat - I never heard of Hypex or Purifi. So noobs like me buy expensive overrated crap and
give these companies reason to exist. We all eat it up. Just think of Intel or Apple and their shiny boxes.
I was about to buy ifi zen dac. All glowing reviews (whathifi 5 stars) until amirm's review...so yeah, thanks for that!
Based on specs alone, these speakers should have been world-beaters.
In hindsight I was expecting the clarity and the dynamic sound of my LS50's with more bass.
Yet I was gob-smacked by the lack of detail in the higher frequencies, the dullness of the mid's and the over-the-top forward bass/woofer, as if to show it was a big boy for a bookshelf.
To that end, we'd need someone with R3's and the ability to precisely apply DSP to fix the midrange recession, and see if that changes things dramatically.
This is effin nice! Could you (or some other regulars) guys please open a "Spinorama-based Speaker EQ" thread where the the teated speakers and their relative EQ points - and hopefully these beautiful graphs - would be shared?Thumb up for work there on filterset....
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I came oh so close to buying this speaker, based on my ownership of the KEF LS50's, from a guy in Chicago. Luckily I had the common sense to go demo the speaker before sending the check and to say I was underwhelmed would be an understatement. Based on specs alone, these speakers should have been world-beaters.
In hindsight I was expecting the clarity and the dynamic sound of my LS50's with more bass.
Yet I was gob-smacked by the lack of detail in the higher frequencies, the dullness of the mid's and the over-the-top forward bass/woofer, as if to show it was a big boy for a bookshelf.
Again, you are not the only one. There are many of us who found this. What I'd love to know is if this is due to the frequency response we see in the measurements, or if it's something else. To that end, we'd need someone with R3's and the ability to precisely apply DSP to fix the midrange recession, and see if that changes things dramatically.
I can say that if I artificially introduce a few db recession in the same frequencies of my favorite speakers, they also become dull and boring sounding, in similar ways to how most people describe the R3. So it's quite possible this could explain it.
This is effin nice! Could you (or some other regulars) guys please open a "Spinorama-based Speaker EQ" thread where the the teated speakers and their relative EQ points - and hopefully these beautiful graphs - would be shared?
That could be a nice sticky-thread @amirm ?
I could, but I think it's best if some of the more active regulars that can update the list as we go along would do so.
That would be a life-safer over time, imo.
It's possible to have the list/links to posts in the OP to the respective speakers, perhaps like this;It's a good idea with the caveat that each of us has a slightly different approach to EQ'ing - it's a great subject though as it could really help advance what we know and how to correlate measurements to listener perception.
It's possible to have the list/links to posts in the OP to the respective speakers, perhaps like this;
Kef R3;
- EQ 1 by QMuse (listening window EQ)
- EQ 2 by TimVG (Early Reflections EQ)
- EQ 3 by BYRTT (PIR EQ)
etc ...
That way we could perhaps get faster consensus between the speakers/users about what works best audibly.
Interesting. Who knows what type of EQ'ing was done. It was after all a Magnolia (Best Buy) showroom.I know exactly what you mean, I actually brought home a pair to compare to my LS50 and they did play louder and cleaner with more bass but with dual subs in the mix I still preferred the LS50. After these measurements, I've been wanting to try the R3 out again to experiment with some PEQ so I bought a pair last week and with filters very similar to TimVG's I can say they beat the LS50 everywhere now.
I can say it's definitely due to frequency response as the openness and detail that was missing is back when I fill in the dip from 1-3k. I'm still tweaking my filters a bit, they are close to TimVG's but I'm modifying them just a bit based on listening comparisons. The 2700Hz peak off-axis is what is most challenging, if that weren't there these could be made even better with just a few filters.
Get yourself a Hypex NCore-based amp like an NC252MP and it will change your mind about Class D. And probably save you money.Hm I've seen test of Crown 2502 or XTZ amp, just not sure about class D. Afraid it won't be full body and end up still going for clean AB power later.
Agreed.The thing with “in store” demo is that you don’t really know how they have set up everything, and we are all aware of the million tweaks and setting an AVR has through the GUI this days...
In any house room or decent dealer demo space they should have left a totally different and positive impression.
We'll see what @Chagall 's impressions of the correction filters are compared to the original.
Get yourself a Hypex NCore-based amp like an NC252MP and it will change your mind about Class D. And probably save you money.
But still, subs first. Hopefully you have bass management capability?