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GLM4 4.2.0 a big improvement in sound quality

e_h

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Keep in the kind the GLM unit can be powered from any USB A charger and does not need to be connected to a PC. It does have to be connected to the monitors and subs though.
This is very good news to me, since I really wanted to use my 9310BM but was under the impression that this required me to have my PC on and connected to the GLM hardware. Thank you :)
 

stevenswall

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All the caveats mentioned in this thread make me reconsider expanding my currently 2.1 Genelec system.

Is there something better that handles all of this? Maybe Dirac Live Bass Control? Needs to be able to make "comb filters" for however many subs people have. If there are 8 subs and each one should only play a few ranges of 10hz then so be it.

If there's a 20dB peak in the treble then OF COURSE that should be corrected. If it needs a moving mic, so be it.

It's frustrating to have to second guess automated correction that is supposed to save me from second guessing and fiddling with things.
 

srrxr71

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All the caveats mentioned in this thread make me reconsider expanding my currently 2.1 Genelec system.

Is there something better that handles all of this? Maybe Dirac Live Bass Control? Needs to be able to make "comb filters" for however many subs people have. If there are 8 subs and each one should only play a few ranges of 10hz then so be it.

If there's a 20dB peak in the treble then OF COURSE that should be corrected. If it needs a moving mic, so be it.

It's frustrating to have to second guess automated correction that is supposed to save me from second guessing and fiddling with things.
The only issue we are having is applying a tone curve on top of the calibration. It’s mostly good for home listeners but not so much for professionals.

Otherwise I don’t see the point of band passing subs. Maybe a lower crossover for bigger subs. They just need low pass.

So the system has everything a professional needs but could do better for home listening.

Personally i’m looking at trinnov long term. For right now SCP is fine. If not equalizer apo with help with putting on curves SCP won’t allow.

As for just tone controls we have that in Windows. I have that built into the Blusound Node. One can adjust to taste there. However at this level I’d like to see the results graphically. If one does not want to there are EQs that are built into various playback systems.
 

strea

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Im not saying that the sound will be better with a better DDC , you have to try it and make judgements, but spdif and AES/EBU is somewhat sensitive to the source clocking and noise. This is my experience after testing some cheap DCC:s with my 8340.
The topping D10b might be really good , but in the pricerange that youre playing in, I would test a Matrix-X spdif2 DDC .

If the sound from the source in this way gets better, the deep bass and the overall quality of the sound will also be better, without the need to switch speakers.
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I was considering going with a 8330a/7350a digital setup. I recently learned a basic analog setup, but I had some issues with the products and returned them and researching again..

For a basic setup, would it go PC -> USB to Matrix-X -> Matrix AES out -> 8330a -> 8330a -> 7350a using cables such as these? https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/AESS6--pro-co-6-foot-premium-canare-aes-ebu-cable

Thank you.
 

e_h

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I was considering going with a 8330a/7350a digital setup. I recently learned a basic analog setup, but I had some issues with the products and returned them and researching again..

For a basic setup, would it go PC -> USB to Matrix-X -> Matrix AES out -> 8330a -> 8330a -> 7350a using cables such as these? https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/AESS6--pro-co-6-foot-premium-canare-aes-ebu-cable

Thank you.
Yes, that will work - I have a similar setup: PC -> USB-cable -> Douk U2 -> spdif/RCA-to-BNC-cable -> Neutrik NADITBNC-M -> AES/EBU-cable -> 8330a -> 8330a -> 7350a.

The sound should be the same for my setup (please correct me if I'm wrong), while saving a few hundred.
I also looked at the Matrix X-spdif and Yellowtec PUC2 Lite before deciding.

Edit: My thinking behind the decision was that my setup gives me greater flexibility, at a lower price. If I want to add another source (for example a Wiim Pro) with spdif/RCA out but neither USB or AES out, I can simply unplug the spdif/RCA cable from the Douk and plug it in the Wiim instead. With the Matrix or Yellowtec I would have to switch the whole chain from source to speaker whenever I wanted to switch between PC and Wiim as a source.

Edit 2: I just read this post which might be of interest: https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...sb-to-aes-ebu-the-solution.13893/post-1509436
 
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Tangband

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strea

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Yes, that will work - I have a similar setup: PC -> USB-cable -> Douk U2 -> spdif/RCA-to-BNC-cable -> Neutrik NADITBNC-M -> AES/EBU-cable -> 8330a -> 8330a -> 7350a.

The sound should be the same for my setup (please correct me if I'm wrong), while saving a few hundred.
I also looked at the Matrix X-spdif and Yellowtec PUC2 Lite before deciding.

Edit: My thinking behind the decision was that my setup gives me greater flexibility, at a lower price. If I want to add another source (for example a Wiim Pro) with spdif/RCA out but neither USB or AES out, I can simply unplug the spdif/RCA cable from the Douk and plug it in the Wiim instead. With the Matrix or Yellowtec I would have to switch the whole chain from source to speaker whenever I wanted to switch between PC and Wiim as a source.

Edit 2: I just read this post which might be of interest: https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...sb-to-aes-ebu-the-solution.13893/post-1509436

Thank you both. And yes e_h I read that thread last night. With my knowledge atm I've compiled my options

MOTU D8: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/8D--motu-8d-usb-avb-interface-with-aes3-and-s-pdif
Topping U90 USB Bridge: https://apos.audio/products/topping-u90
Matrix Audio X-SPDIF 3: https://www.moon-audio.com/matrix-audio-x-spdif-3-usb-interface.html
Yellowtec PUC2 Lite: https://shop.yellowtec.com/products/puc2-lite

The price of all these are rather similar, within $100~ or so of each other. Does it look like any unit has a clear advantage over the others? I was considering MOTU for the reliability factor, I recently had a bad experience with a Topping E70. But I also know that Amir has had positive measurements with Matrix units and they are of quality (if I am correct in this assumption?).

Any thoughts appreciated, thank you.
 

Trell

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Thank you both. And yes e_h I read that thread last night. With my knowledge atm I've compiled my options

MOTU D8: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/8D--motu-8d-usb-avb-interface-with-aes3-and-s-pdif
Topping U90 USB Bridge: https://apos.audio/products/topping-u90
Matrix Audio X-SPDIF 3: https://www.moon-audio.com/matrix-audio-x-spdif-3-usb-interface.html
Yellowtec PUC2 Lite: https://shop.yellowtec.com/products/puc2-lite

The price of all these are rather similar, within $100~ or so of each other. Does it look like any unit has a clear advantage over the others? I was considering MOTU for the reliability factor, I recently had a bad experience with a Topping E70. But I also know that Amir has had positive measurements with Matrix units and they are of quality (if I am correct in this assumption?).

Any thoughts appreciated, thank you.
Before you embark on this asking us for advice yet again on multiple forums, perhaps you could explain why your analog setup failed?
 

strea

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Before you embark on this asking us for advice yet again on multiple forums, perhaps you could explain why your analog setup failed?
Sure. I attempted to cut corners on price and was shipped units that were manufactured in Jan 2021 (I did not know this before purchase). They were described as new, although they were "on sale" for some reason. I regret this and should have just ordered from a more trustworthy website like Sweetwater. The monitors worked fine (one had a very loose power button), but the subwoofer would audibly distort past mid 80's dB. Genelec support said I should return the unit, which I did. The E70 I purchased malfunctioned and went to full volume out of no where one day and destroyed my ears for a day or two. Basically, I did a ton of research, but had all around bad luck with my first setup, so the entire thing went back. I wanted a clean slate. From there, I started researching again and realized that I didn't want to go the analog route, I watched the GLM walkthrough video on youtube and saw that it will do a much better job than a beginner like myself on REW. I could also use the GLM volume where I can set a max level and not have to worry about input sensitivity etc + use the Genelec 9310b volume control (lots of my problems solved here). I ask a lot of questions because I'm not an audio hobbyist, I'm here to buy one time and keep for life basically, or at least 5-10 years. But I'm also not the person to blindly listen, I must understand things fully before I make my decisions.

With all this said, a forum is for advice and discussion no? Am I not contributing by providing 4 USB to AES interfaces for someone who may have the same issue in the future? I spent the past few days researching all this stuff and now just looking for some confirmations or greater expertise to look over my findings.
 
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Trell

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Sure. I attempted to cut corners on price and was shipped units that were manufactured in Jan 2021. They were described as new, although they were "on sale" for some reason. I regret this and should have just ordered from a more trustworthy website like Sweetwater. The monitors worked fine (one had a very loose power button), but the subwoofer would audibly distort past mid 80's dB. Genelec support said I should return the unit, which I did. The E70 I purchased malfunctioned and went to full volume out of no where one day and destroyed my ears for a day or two. Basically, I did a ton of research, but had all around bad luck with my first setup, so the entire thing went back. I wanted a clean slate. From there, I started researching again and realized that I didn't want to go the analog route, I watched the GLM walkthrough video on youtube and saw that it will do a much better job than a beginner like myself on REW. I could also use the GLM volume where I can set a max level and not have to worry about input sensitivity etc + use the Genelec 9310b volume control (lots of my problems solved here). I ask a lot of questions because I'm not an audio hobbyist, I'm here to buy one time and keep for life basically, or at least 5-10 years. But I'm also not the person to blindly listen, I must understand things fully before I make my decisions.

With all this said, a forum is for advice and discussion no? Am I not contributing by providing 4 USB to AES interfaces for someone who may have the same issue in the future? I spent the past few days researching all this stuff and now just looking for some confirmations or greater expertise to look over my findings.
In earlier posts you wrote that you had the Genelec 8030C, which is analog, asking for cables to use with the Genelec subwoofer. We gave detailed suggestions of high quality but not expensive. If you had setup issues we would tried to help you.

But here you are going for all AES instead at a price 2-3 higher, with no understanding as to why your previous analog setup did not work.

So yeah, why exactly did your previous setup not work!
 

strea

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In earlier posts you wrote that you had the Genelec 8030C, which is analog, asking for cables to use with the Genelec subwoofer. We gave detailed suggestions of high quality but not expensive. If you had setup issues we would tried to help you.

But here you are going for all AES instead at a price 2-3 higher, with no understanding as to why your previous analog setup did not work.
The previous analog setup didn't work because of the reasons I explained above (the units were defective then I returned them, so I no longer have a 8030c). The advice provided was perfectly fine. With that said, upon further research I decided I'm not interested in playing the DAC level mismatch game or using attenuators or building a potentiometer from a kit etc which was one of the main problems I was having since the E70 malfunctioned and blew my ears off (and no, it was not set to DAC mode, it did it all on it's own while playing music).

GLM + Genelec 9310b volume control is way easier and it's the route I would like to go. Also GLM lets you turn off the monitor LED's which were bothering my eyes in nearfield. There's tons of advantages, calculates subwoofer phase auto as well etc. Price is not that much different. It's about an extra $1500~ or so for this setup, certainly not 2-3x. This is not a concern to me for a setup I'll be using for years to come.

Less than a month ago was my first ever post here on ASR. I went from a Klipsch Promedia 2.1 computer speaker setup to learning about all this in 20 something days (analog setups, REW, digital setups, etc). I think that's pretty decent. If you don't want to assist further, no big deal and I appreciate your prior support, but I will continue my quest to learn and find the optimal products for my use case.
 
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Trell

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The previous analog setup didn't work because of the reasons I explained above (the units were defective then I returned them, so I no longer have a 8030c). The advice provided was perfectly fine. With that said, upon further research I decided I'm not interested in playing the DAC level mismatch game or using attenuators or building a potentiometer from a kit etc which was one of the main problems I was having since the E70 malfunctioned and blew my ears off (and no, it was not set to DAC mode, it did it all on it's own while playing music).

GLM + Genelec 9310b volume control is way easier and it's the route I would like to go. Also GLM lets you turn off the monitor LED's which were bothering my eyes in nearfield. There's tons of advantages, calculates subwoofer phase auto as well etc. Price is not that much different. It's about an extra $1500~ or so for this setup, certainly not 2-3x. This is not a concern to me for a setup I'll be using for years to come.

Less than a month ago was my first ever post here on ASR. I went from a Klipsch Promedia 2.1 computer speaker setup to learning about all this in 20 something days (analog setups, REW, digital setups, etc). I think that's pretty decent. If you don't want to assist further, no big deal and I appreciate your prior support, but I will continue my quest to learn and find the optimal products for my use case.

But you still fail to understand. With the 8330 and subwoofer you just lower the volume internally and set it, then you are “safe”.
 

strea

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But you still fail to understand. With the 8330 and subwoofer you just lower the volume internally and set it, then you are “safe”.
Yes but I like the control at my fingertips hence the 9310b volume knob that is made for GLM. With all this said, back to which USB AES Interface is best please.. or if they are all essentially the same.
 

Trell

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Yes but I like the control at my fingertips hence the 9310b volume knob that is made for GLM. With all this said, back to which USB AES Interface is best please.. or if they are all essentially the same.
You’ve still no clue, despite all your questions, sorry.
 

strea

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You’ve still no clue, despite all your questions, sorry.
Yeah what a shame, 20 days into my audio journey and rather than educate you downtalk. There’s a ton of sectors I’m extremely educated in and even when people are wrong 10 times I still try to help them. I’d never respond in your manner. Buzz off.
 
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Trell

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Yeah what a shame, 20 days into my audio journey and rather than educate you downtalk. There’s a ton of sectors I’m extremely educated in and even when people are wrong 10 times I still try to help them. I’d never respond in your manner. Buzz off.
But here you are with little clue nor much inclination to understand why your analog setup did not work.

And then you go to AES. :facepalm:
 

strea

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But here you are with little clue nor much inclination to understand why your analog setup did not work.

And then you go to AES. :facepalm:
I literally explained to you why it didn't work and then the reasons why I wanted to upgrade. What's your deal man? You seem to have an issue with reading comprehension. If you got nothing else to say that adds positively to the conversation why not just move on? I thanked you for your previous assistance and now you keep pressing an issue that I've already explained in multiple posts now.
 

Trell

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I literally explained to you why it didn't work and then the reasons why I wanted to upgrade. What's your deal man? You seem to have an issue with reading comprehension. If you got nothing else to say that adds positively to the conversation why not just move on? I thanked you for your previous assistance and now you keep pressing an issue that I've already explained in multiple posts now.
Is this your post from yesterday?

 

strea

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Is this your post from yesterday?

Correct, I was trying to understand if "dBu" was a universal metric or not. I was learning about audio overall and the product. At that point I was still considering an analog setup, but after watching the GLM video and seeing all the benefits of the GLM software, I decided to opt for all digital.

1678478578323.png
 

Trell

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Correct, I was trying to understand if "dBu" was a universal metric or not. I was learning about audio overall and the product. At that point I was still considering an analog setup, but after watching the GLM video and seeing all the benefits of the GLM software, I decided to opt for all digital.

View attachment 270730
But you still don’t get it and you don’t understand that you don’t get it.

So take a step back and try figure that out.
 
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