That sure looks like a BDI console to me. I have one of a slightly different design and the quality is absolutely outstanding.May I ask where you got it? I'm currently searching for one and apart from the "standard" IKEA, there isn't much I could find.
One man thinks "overpowered" while another man sees "headroom"...It's super expensive and overpowered though.
I rather eye the successor of the Topping PA5 for that and use a stronger amp for the bass.
Dylan,For complete transparency (as I briefly mentioned to Amir):
The “hump” in the distortion after 10w is known/published by Hypex in their latest data sheet (Revision 4, circa 2020). So it is something they are aware of/are not hiding it. See attached image, taken from the Rev4 data sheet.
I just wanted to make that clear, especially for those who might wonder if the said hump is due to binding post tabs/previous ferrous metal issues on my part (which it is not as this build has updated tabs of course).
This amp does have the brass (non-steel/non ferrous metal) tabs, so the hump you see is exactly the same hump Hypex publishes in the datasheet.Dylan,
So changing out the Buckeye NC502MP from steel binding tabs to brass will not make any difference in the distortion hump? Are you saying the ferrous metal issue in the Buckeye Purifi won't show up in any shape or form in the Buckeye NC502MP?
Interesting use of heathsink. Nothing seems to be directly mounted to it. What heat source is being “sinked”?No, too much work to go there, so here it is:
View attachment 277194
The modules are mounted onto an aluminum plate. The plate sinks the heat form the mosfets from the amps and SMPS. They are mounted underneath the board. The plate is then mounted to the heat sink.Interesting use of heathsink. Nothing seems to be directly mounted to it. What heat source is being “sinked”?
Understood. All clear. Thank youThe modules are mounted onto an aluminum plate. The slab sinks the heat form the mosfets from the amps and SMPS. They are mounted underneath the board. The plate is the mounted to the heat sink.
See, no visible mosfets:
View attachment 277278
The 3ch Purifi has the rise due to an issue with the binding post tabs (they were steel). Said issue has been corrected.How come this unit and the buckeye 3 ch purifi have the ride in distortion after 10 watts?
I know technically it probably doesn’t matter as everything usually hovers below that range. Just curious to know what’s the reason behind it
YesI would definitely opt for SpeakON connectors for home theater. I presume they're Neutrik brand?
Even high end AVR's cannot come close to what this can do. Try running 11-13 channels of hard to drive 4ohm speakers at reference level. Not everyone will need this but those that do, or want something like this to never have to worry about having enough power, it is a great option. Also, not everyone uses an AVR and use processors instead.IMO why not just get a good Denon or other high end AVR? or heck, get an older unit and save a few bucks, you'll never hear the difference anyway,, for this much money U could get a heck of a nice AVR, Ive said many times here, wish I had my old Pioneer VSX D1S 2
Because when you’re spending thousands on speakers, TV/projector, furniture, etc, you simply want the best possible components to handle anything you throw at it.IMO why not just get a good Denon or other high end AVR?
So looking at the amp from the rear which of the outputs of the channel pairings is the "good" channel, left or right? Would seem to make sense to connect my LCR to them.A minor issue was the power supply spikes in one channel (blue). I tested all the amplifier modules and they all do the same thing. So likely is due to leakage from the onboard power supply bleeding into the more adjacent channel on NC502MP. So likely is due to leakage from the onboard power supply bleeding into the more adjacent channel on NC502MP. Using the "good" channel on each board removes that bit of bleeding