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If you want VU meters, buy something like this (pics below about $20 from China) to play with. You can easily build it into a box or even an amplifier, the driver circuitry PCB is prebuilt, comes with all the wires and the little 'vu' meters are very cute. They are LED backlit with adjustable brightness and meter range control.
If that is set up as a WATT meter and was reasonably accurate, I don't think that it looks too busy, as it seems to have a way of being able to adjust inputs to the same output level.
I am puzzled by the non-recommendation due to a non audible issue. If not recommended it should mean that there are better options in the price range or similar performance at a lower price.
I am puzzled by the non-recommendation due to a non audible issue. If not recommended it should mean that there are better options in the price range or similar performance at a lower price.
Actually, I think it makes the case for measurements. Without measurements, it perhaps wouldn't have been apparent that the amp wasn't performing to specs. If I was buying a product, say a car for example, and I was told it had 600 hp and a top speed of 200mph, if it in fact only topped out at 180mph, whether I intended to ever go that fast or not, I would not be pleased that it did not live up to the advertising.
Actually, I think it makes the case for measurements. Without measurements, it perhaps wouldn't have been apparent that the amp wasn't performing to specs. If I was buying a product, say a car for example, and I was told it had 600 hp and a top speed of 200mph, if it in fact only topped out at 180mph, whether I intended to ever go that fast or not, I would not be pleased that it did not live up to the advertising.
Measurements absolutely have their value and are a useful data point, just not the only one. Per your analogy, you’re recommending a car that only hits 120mph over the cheaper one that hits 180 because the former performs to spec.
I bypassed the Faston by soldering to the binding post tab and it does not fix the distortion issue.
They are more consistent than soldering. Most notably, soldering to a large metal mass like the binding post can result in cold solder joints or solder potentially spreading on to threads and making it difficult to replace a binding post.
Since it does take a good bit of heat to solder to the binding post, you can also melt the wire’s insulation or the plastic insulating washer. Have done both with the bigger posts so am speaking from experience.
Even if you are creating a high performing amp (like Hypex Nilai), you can see that good connections can be made without needing to solder. @Buckeye Amps use of Fastons is just like many manufacturers do inside speakers and other electrical connections that need to be reliable.
As @Buckeye Amps mentioned, the board designer and I have been going at this diagnosis feverishly. Admittedly, should have found sooner, but I made a critical test error and (as mentioned) the designer had been plagued by a bad dummy load that obscured his measurements until just recently. Since I have been working closely on the troubleshooting, Dylan is allowing me to represent the team to share our finding. In the end, the designer found the cause.
Here, I wrote; If you take a look inside some rather high-end HiFi amplifiers, you'll see that the SP output wiring (and power wiring?) uses non-magnetic terminals and screws made of brass (no iron at all) or pure copper. However, this is also a common-sense measure to prevent sound quality deterioration in HiFi amplifiers. I remember it being pointed out and explained in interviews with a Yamaha amplifier designer and a Rotel engineer.
It is frustrating when working with magnetized screwdrivers because you can't catch the screws, though.
Yamaha's and Rotel's amplifier designers had a hard time persuading the assembly workers at the amplifier factories, but in the end they convinced them to use non-magnetic terminals and screws, giving priority to sound quality; I've also heard that the screwdriver, which uses a chuck to fix screws and bolts to the tip, was devised so that it could be used in factories.
In my DIY audio setup, I have the same thing; I strictly/completely eliminate/avoid any magnetizable metal/screw in my SP cabling/connecting.
Measurements absolutely have their value and are a useful data point, just not the only one. Per your analogy, you’re recommending a car that only hits 120mph over the cheaper one that hits 180 because the former performs to spec.
Actually, I think it makes the case for measurements. Without measurements, it perhaps wouldn't have been apparent that the amp wasn't performing to specs. If I was buying a product, say a car for example, and I was told it had 600 hp and a top speed of 200mph, if it in fact only topped out at 180mph, whether I intended to ever go that fast or not, I would not be pleased that it did not live up to the advertising.
When I worked for the Porsche Factory in the 1980's (as a Quality Assurance Technician), We were told that if we (the factory literature) say that a car will go 175 MPH and it goes 176 MPH or more, we will have another happy customer. But that if the car will only go 174 (or less) we will have a hell of a time getting our reputation back.
Because it performs leaps and bounds better than recommended amps costing multiples more? Why recommend something that performs worse? It’s fine, I’m done arguing the point. Enjoy the to-spec Honda, I’ll take the 174 mph Porsche.
I received one of your two-channel purifi amps a couple of weeks ago. Are you going to send out a replacement part? Should I even bother "fixing" it if it's inaudible? I guess it would help resale value for picky buyers.
I received one of your two-channel purifi amps a couple of weeks ago. Are you going to send out a replacement part? Should I even bother "fixing" it if it's inaudible? I guess it would help resale value for picky buyers.
This was not expected and was not an attempt to have a known/flawed product pushed through review.
While we did robust testing during development and prototyping, I cannot account for why this issue was not identified or observed early on. But I do take full responsibility.
As Amir briefly acknowledged, now that we are aware of and able to reproduce the issue on our end, we have been testing furiously to identify the exact cause so we can produce a fix.
Transparency and communication with the community has been one of the "pillars" I've tried to build my business upon. As soon as we identify the exact issue and the appropriate fix, it will be implemented ASAP, including for current customers as needed.
Indeed! Best possible outcome for all involved. And contrary to the suggestion above, your forthright communication, ownership of the issue, diligent efforts to correct it, and offering a fix to everyone with an early unit should serve to bolster your reputation and instill the utmost confidence in those who choose to purchase a Buckeye. My hat’s off to you, sir. Cheers and well done.