What?I can’t suggest anything as I still don’t know what are the specs you are aiming to approach. A design starts with specs.
Thanks for kind info!Right, taking the B&C 15SW115 (a high-end model) for example, the nominal sensitivity rating is 96, so a 95-97dB mid cone would be needed. Maybe preferably a 6" for directivity matching at tweeter xo frequency, but such high sensitivity 6" drivers don't have a lot of Xmax, might not be a problem with a 200-250Hz crossover, depending on the SPL limits of other drivers. Coincidentally the Bliesma T34B tweeter is quite high sensitivity, 97.5, and I assume it can be used with a 1.5kHz LR4 xo, that would be a good combination with a 6" cone.
looks great! I think hybrid x-overs will be great option xD
You meant, "all of members who already had provided their own recommendations are moron and You are just trolling." so you don't have any suggestions at the first place right? Also, are you stating that you have no intention of offering any alternatives?
I have to reiterate this. So far, we have no idea what the actual goal of this speaker system would be. We have no idea of what problem you are trying to solve here.I can’t suggest anything as I still don’t know what are the specs you are aiming for. A design starts with specs.
Thanks for another actually helpful comments!I have to reiterate this. So far, we have no idea what the actual goal of this speaker system would be. We have no idea of what problem you are trying to solve here.
For example, I am working on a compact, high-efficiency monitor design which incorporates a horn tweeter. That is designed to solve the problem I have of having small listening spaces and wanting a speaker that can fit there, but also play loudly in larger rooms.
My specs for that design were: Point source (or very close to that), high output capacity above 2-400hz, and relatively compact size.
Here, I have no idea what you are aiming for. I don't know if you are trying to build some kind of open-baffle system, or a surround sound system, or whatever else. All I know is that you are apparently asking whether some random 15" driver will "match" some other (seemingly randomly picked as I don't know your intention) drivers.
I can have a terrible woofer, and match it with my KEFs because I know how to integrate it. That's what's important. Getting the integration right matters. There are a million good quality 15" woofers out there. You just need to find the one that fits what you want to do. Do you need bonkers output? Then get a PA woofer that can handle 2000w. Do you want super deep bass? Then look for a woofer with a low Fs and high xmax.
Basically what I'm saying is that there are tons of good drivers out there and the actual implementation matters more than the components you select. The design of the crossover, the geometry of the enclosure, etc. All that plays into how the speaker sounds and makes a much larger difference than the difference between a good B&C 15" and a good JBL 15".
So with that being said: What are your design specs? What is the "problem" you are trying to solve with this speaker? (Where / how are you going to use it, etc)
If you define the design specs, then we can help point you in the right direction.
This reminds me of a time I gave a joke answer to someone on a different forum. They asked for recommendations for speakers for a large festival. Naturally, I answered with a technically correct answer that would have been a really bad idea. (Use a bunch of Danley Jhericos [the ones with basically no vertical dispersion] hung from some helicopters. Then add sufficient MatterHorns for LF duties...)
Here, I am actually trying to help because this forum is quite nice
As I mentioned, I do not match 15" directly to mid doom tweeter, as you mentioned, 15" need low x-over point. so I'll add 15" for cross with Purifi 8"A tweeter like this puts you in 3 way territory. A 15" driver is just too big to match the tweeter directivity around 1.5khz. Look at the off axis responses of an average 15" driver. They want to be crossed around 900-1000hz to match a 90 degree horn preferably even lower. Switch tweeters or consider a 3 way design.
You really have to make clearer design goals here. All you give us a list of expensive drivers, and some tidbit’s of into.. all of this does not really amount to a well thought out design.Thanks for another actually helpful comments!
Considering quite large closed box(fully sealed)
so, Low fs anh high Bl with relatively high sensitivity(93dB+) is important to me.
My goal is to achieve meaningful extension of clean bass with purifi 8"(witch has serious low frequency ability). So it seems 15" units have to be very well made, but I don't have DIY experiences with that kind of(over 10") very large units. That's why I didn't know what to buy and post this question.
Thank you again for your kind reply even though I posted sponge-like-lack-of-detailed questions.
I've been redesigning my speakers for 30 years now, on occasion replacement drivers, new baffles, repartitioning space, stuffing, bracing, etc. My boxes are 6 cubic feet (172 liters) to accommodate 15" woofers in a sealed cabinet along with a 6" mid and ribbons with a horn. They can easily go down to 30Hz but I cross them at 55Hz to a pair of subs because of room dispersion at those frequencies.
So I think I kinda know what you're seeking....
You do realize how massive these are going to be right? Not to mention heavy and expensive to make with some expensive to own tools as well to do it right.
You REALLY need a concrete enclosure design before you even begin to go shopping for speaker drivers. As has been pointed out - it really is a synergy of all parts working together and what's best for one design might be detrimental to another.
OR buy that 15" driver first because that will then dictate the size of your enclosure. THEN you can start figuring out the rest and, if you want help, it will be more easily given once the needed parameters are known.
Seems great!If you want excellence this would be a good one: https://audiotechnology.dk/flexunits/15-f-102-25-10-kap-8250/
Then, like mentioned before, add the rest. The woofer dictates the cabinet.
Thanks for comment, I'll reconsider about tweeter.You really have to make clearer design goals here. All you give us a list of expensive drivers, and some tidbit’s of into.. all of this does not really amount to a well thought out design.
Also, passive? Why on earth would you do that? A 4-way passive crossover will be expensive and not easy to design. Active will yield more flexibility and better results. It won’t be easy either though. Either way, you’ll need proper measurement equipment. A combination of a passive tweeter/mid and rest active might also yield effective results.
Then on the driver choices:
- As already mentioned by others, 34mm tweeter for only the upper end sounds like madness. A smaller tweeter will have much better directivity.
- The midrange dome seems to only play full power from 1 kHz on, probably usable from > 650 Hz or so. In essence it’s a fine driver, but the question is why? The 34mm tweeter could work well with a 6.5” or even good 8” (like the purify) without the dome midrange. Tweeter with waveguide would also be a good choice. Crossing high to a tweeter also has it’s own issues due to driver to driver distance, one of the reasons we don’t see too many dome mids anymore. Around 750 USD? Good grief…
- the 8” Purify is not the best choice for a mid bass. It has a very low fs, needs relatively a big box. An 8” PA driver would probably suit better here. Very low distortion PA drivers can be had as well, for instance: B&C 8NDL64, but that one will need a midrange, and there are many others to be found. The Purify would be fine to cover the bottom end all by itself though.
If I were to look at a 15” driver and cost was of little regard I’d probably look at something like BMS 15N850V2.
But best would be to first list ALL design goals, those include physical size, extension, budget, directivity goals, SPL requirements etc, etc.