That's one heck'uva power bar.
The 20 Amp rating boggles the mind. Do USA peeps have 20 Amp circuits at home or at work?
-
WANTED: Happy members who like to discuss audio and other topics related to our interest. Desire to learn and share knowledge of science required. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!
AudioQuest PowerQuest 3 Video Review (AC Filter/Surge Protector)
- Thread starter amirm
- Start date
The 20 Amp rating boggles the mind. Do USA peeps have 20 Amp circuits at home or at work?
That's one heck'uva power bar.
It isn't uncommon. I have several 20 amp circuits in the house. A couple in the kitchen, one in the dining room, one in the family room, one downstairs.
You know it's shown with both front and back... It isn't double height like the picture might imply.
I checked the breaker panel in the house and it's all 15A and 40A and some double 40A. You USA peeps are lucky you can have 20A breakers.It isn't uncommon. I have several 20 amp circuits in the house. A couple in the kitchen, one in the dining room, one in the family room, one downstairs.
You know it's shown with both front and back... It isn't double height like the picture might imply.
the_brunx
Senior Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2020
- Messages
- 342
- Likes
- 859
I once got lucky? And it so happened I unexpectedly landed on a similar type of used device on eBay for dirt cheap. Out of curiosity I tested it and had some knowledge that this stuff must be bullshit. So the placebo wasn’t doing its thing too much on me and I Couldn’t even justify the device for the dirt cheap price I paid and the space it was taking. So I put it back on eBay and was very suprised at how much it later sold for. I felt so guilty and sad for the person who paid me so much for it. Then he messaged me to thank me and tell me how awesome the device was and how he couldn’t believe that so much more was hiding behind the music before he installed the device. Now he can hear so much more to the music. I just thought to myself man oh man.
Last edited:
I see you are from Canada. We have 20 amps breakers in Canada. Not common or installed “by default” But certainly an option
Good to know. We have no issues with tripping what appears to be dozens of 15A breakers but 20A is a option that is good.
Gotta know if the wiring gauge is able to take it tough, i don’t do domestic electrical wiring, but something to check, you don’t just swap the breaker and the plugs, but maybe all modern house is wired for both, we’d have to ask the standards
Nobody is gonna be touching this circuitry. It's all been wired anew from a major renO. The entire house. It's all certified with the inspector and the city too.
They would be the ones to ask. I just know it’s possible.Nobody is gonna be touching this circuitry. It's all been wired anew from a major renO. The entire house. It's all certified with the inspector and the city too.
Yeah for sure. The house is certified for multiple suites with service and plumbing too and is a legally registered property now for upper and lower mail service. That means it's the real deal. It's federally acknowledged via the municipal registration. No tomfoolery here. As a plussy we are looking at the inner city skyscrapers outside.
The water analogy actually works really well. But you need to get the bits right.
Flowing water is just like flowing current. Voltage = pressure difference.
Volume of water flowing per unit time = Amps.
Restriction in water conduit = resistance.
Inertia of water in pipe = inductance.
A volume of water = charge.
Storage of water under pressure = capacitance.
If you can understand water hammer you have enough to understand most of what you need in electricity. You can construct water analogues of most electrical systems. Transistors, transformers etc are visualisable as things like pressure actuated valves or coupled turbines.
Yes, it's analogous to such.
If a person is troubled enough to go to that analogy they can certainly increase the effort and get it correct with some principles and fundamentals.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #33
SurgeX is always in a fight with ZeroSurge on who invented the non-destructive surge protection. They are pretty common in the custom install channel. Here is a demo they do to show off how bad MOVs are compared to their boxes:
His 10 years old 1080p plasma image probably still look better than the one from those 300$ 4k TVs tough
These things crack me up. Pretty much any device that uses a DC voltage is going to generate more noise in the rectification stage than will be seen on incoming power. Current only flows when the AC voltage is higher than the DC bus, and at near zero resistance. This creates momentary current spikes and not a continuous flow of AC current. This is why the DC bus has it's own filtering, and this filtering will take care of any AC noise.
I work on large industrial servo systems and we will usually put an AC line filter in the circuit to prevent the rectification of the servo system from polluting the AC source with noise for other AC devices within the system, it usually has no impact on the servo system itself. A good AC line filter is essentially a 1:1 voltage ratio transformer, or an active filter that rectifies then inverts back to the desired AC waveform.
I work on large industrial servo systems and we will usually put an AC line filter in the circuit to prevent the rectification of the servo system from polluting the AC source with noise for other AC devices within the system, it usually has no impact on the servo system itself. A good AC line filter is essentially a 1:1 voltage ratio transformer, or an active filter that rectifies then inverts back to the desired AC waveform.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2021
- Messages
- 679
- Likes
- 377
So if a company is selling items with no value and they are ripping people off, and an entire segment (albeit small) of our economy is based on this scam, is it good to expose the scam and destroy all these jobs?
spittiz
Member
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2019
- Messages
- 14
- Likes
- 13
Products on the mains side that claim to improve audio quality piss me off.
Like already stated above, they're pretty much irrelevant anyway for any (well designed) device using a DC voltage for operation.
If you need clean AC power for some reason, I think one of the more convenient ways to get it is by using an online (double conversion) UPS, which also feeds everything downstream through a DC stage with filtration. I haven't had the need for it myself so I don't know how well the cheapest <1000 usd/eur UPS'es perform, that'd be interesting to see some measurements on. I'm sure you can get a very well performing UPS for much less than some of these astronomically priced audiophile bullshit products though.
A few words about the surge protection, since that loosely relates to my field of work in EE. Like Amir said in the video, a device like this won't provide any protection from large voltage spikes, and in case of a direct lightning hit it's all up to luck anyway because no one can predict how the energy from the strike travels. If you're unlucky every single cable and connected device will be fried and or pretty much evaporated (I've been to a couple of houses hit by lightning). What they can protect your gear from though is smaller transients that can come from e.g. some switching event in the grid or a neutral fault on your side of the transformer.
If you want the best protection possible, you need it in several stages and it has to be planned according to the building. Not taking into account external protection like lightning rods and other conducting systems etc, overvoltage protection divided into 3 types at least here in the EU. Type 1 is used at the incoming connection from the transformer (main panel), and is a must if you got lightning protection on the roof etc. It can handle large and long lasting surges, but isn't sufficient alone to protect your home appliances. In the most primitive forms it's pretty much just a spark gap to ground where the large surges "jump" over.
In conjunction you need a type 2 protection device, it can be combined with the type 1 device, and if you got electrical subpanels in the building you want type 2 protection devices in those.
Then on top of this you would use a type 3 protection device close to the equipment you want to protect, behind the socket or after where you plug your devices. All these cheap surge protectors that are sold to consumers which you plug your devices into it fall into the type 3 category. When used alone, their protection is very limited.
Like already stated above, they're pretty much irrelevant anyway for any (well designed) device using a DC voltage for operation.
If you need clean AC power for some reason, I think one of the more convenient ways to get it is by using an online (double conversion) UPS, which also feeds everything downstream through a DC stage with filtration. I haven't had the need for it myself so I don't know how well the cheapest <1000 usd/eur UPS'es perform, that'd be interesting to see some measurements on. I'm sure you can get a very well performing UPS for much less than some of these astronomically priced audiophile bullshit products though.
A few words about the surge protection, since that loosely relates to my field of work in EE. Like Amir said in the video, a device like this won't provide any protection from large voltage spikes, and in case of a direct lightning hit it's all up to luck anyway because no one can predict how the energy from the strike travels. If you're unlucky every single cable and connected device will be fried and or pretty much evaporated (I've been to a couple of houses hit by lightning). What they can protect your gear from though is smaller transients that can come from e.g. some switching event in the grid or a neutral fault on your side of the transformer.
If you want the best protection possible, you need it in several stages and it has to be planned according to the building. Not taking into account external protection like lightning rods and other conducting systems etc, overvoltage protection divided into 3 types at least here in the EU. Type 1 is used at the incoming connection from the transformer (main panel), and is a must if you got lightning protection on the roof etc. It can handle large and long lasting surges, but isn't sufficient alone to protect your home appliances. In the most primitive forms it's pretty much just a spark gap to ground where the large surges "jump" over.
In conjunction you need a type 2 protection device, it can be combined with the type 1 device, and if you got electrical subpanels in the building you want type 2 protection devices in those.
Then on top of this you would use a type 3 protection device close to the equipment you want to protect, behind the socket or after where you plug your devices. All these cheap surge protectors that are sold to consumers which you plug your devices into it fall into the type 3 category. When used alone, their protection is very limited.
In what aspect that should be?
It's ironic that a lower source impedance will increase this current spikes but audiophiles think he finger thick cables must be Bette because thy have low impedance.
Contrasts, black levels, wider angle of viewing, etc.
JSmith
Master Contributor
What is this BS? It's almost like saying financial fraud is fine so a company can pay it's employees... take the political crap elsewhere anyway.
Hell it's even in your post, ripping people off... selling a product that doesn't really do shit is why they keep the product description full of words and no test figures, otherwise they'd be called out even more than this.
You might be interested in my break-in service in this case.
JSmith
Similar threads
