• WANTED: Happy members who like to discuss audio and other topics related to our interest. Desire to learn and share knowledge of science required. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

3e Audio A5 Stereo Amplifier Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 5 1.6%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 12 3.8%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 51 16.2%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 246 78.3%

  • Total voters
    314
I can clearly see the goo creeping in from the left in the left opening:

IMG_20250112_085031.jpg
 
According to the measurements shown by @kyuu you should actually not go with the A7se but with the A7 (or A5) instead. The A7se may be be better than your AVR, but it's not ideal for a 3 ohm speaker!

The A5 and A7 are stable and capable of dumping a decent amount of current into even 2 ohm reactive loads.

The frequency response doesn't tell us anything about the sensitivity since it doesn't contain any info about the voltage used (and the mic distance if we want to be pedantic).
+1

I think I am right (?) also that the current capability of this A5 might be greater that other models - I don't think we have like for like tests graphs vs the Toppings, but 200 + watts into 2 ohms... I'm finding it hard to imagine many speakers demanding more than even the A5.
 
And btw I did reply to another's post who was also trying to answer the question about driving the F208's w/ the 3e audio amp.
Yes, I know to whom you've been replying and now came to appreciate that you intended to be helpful to the OP.

Since the 208 are really 4 ohm speakers Amir's 4 ohm measurement should be consulted (265 W).
 
I'm still wondering what listening conditions overload a 250+W amplifier with speakers that don't even dip below 3.4 Ohm. Would be nice to know.
 
Monoprice doesn't detail how they generate their measurements, at least as far as I'm aware, so whether or not they are "real" I do not know. But they do post measurements for at least some of their speakers, including the THX-460T:
Assuming that is the frequency response is the 2.83V response for sensitivity, you can see that there are only a few places where it hits 90 dB. I would eyeball the average sensitivity to be about 87.5 dB.

Between 100 hz and 9 khz, the black line is well below 90 dB the whole way.
 
Last edited:
Hey,

I’m mainly interested in this amp because of its great performance, reasonable price and auto on/off functionality. With volume bypass this amp has a gain of 17 dB. In my situation, as I’m likely to sit within a meter of my speakers when at my desk, a 4 mVrms input, on a 17 dB gain coupled to 6 Ohm and 87.7 dB (1 W/ 1m) pair of speakers gives me 55.6 dB SPL for the auto on/off cutoff (two speakers against the wall). This is fairly quiet, but as others have experienced, I could see situations where volume on my DAC is set low enough that the amp will shut off even though I wouldn’t want it to. I should be able to mitigate this by just not using volume bypass and setting a lower volume on the 3e Audio A5(se), right? In this case I compensate for the lower effective gain of the amp by a higher output on the DAC and thus ensuring I can avoid unwanted auto standby, right?

This option would be less ideal, as the volume potentiometer isn’t perfect, but to be honest, unless the potentiometer is complete garbage, I don’t think would hear the difference in sound quality.

Also, I’m more interested in the A5se. The difference in price is better spend on improving the acoustics of my room and speaker setup. Also, the numbers used are more for illustrative purposes, I couldn’t actually find independent measurement data for the speakers I’m interested in.
 
I’m mainly interested in this amp because of its great performance, reasonable price and auto on/off functionality. With volume bypass this amp has a gain of 17 dB. In my situation, as I’m likely to sit within a meter of my speakers when at my desk, a 4 mVrms input, on a 17 dB gain coupled to 6 Ohm and 87.7 dB (1 W/ 1m) pair of speakers gives me 55.6 dB SPL for the auto on/off cutoff (two speakers against the wall).
Your math is way off. The 17 dB gain is added. If you feed a 4V source into a 17 dB gain amp with mid-to-high 80s sensitive speakers you will get just over 100 dB as max volume.
 
Your math is way off. The 17 dB gain is added. If you feed a 4V source into a 17 dB gain amp with mid-to-high 80s sensitive speakers you will get just over 100 dB as max volume.
I wasn’t talking about 4 Vrms, but 4 milli Vrms here. I was wondering at what SPL threshold the amp would turn off when using the balanced input, that’s where the 4 mVrms came from.
 
I should be able to mitigate this by just not using volume bypass and setting a lower volume on the 3e Audio A5(se), right? In this case I compensate for the lower effective gain of the amp by a higher output on the DAC and thus ensuring I can avoid unwanted auto standby, right?

This option would be less ideal, as the volume potentiometer isn’t perfect, but to be honest, unless the potentiometer is complete garbage, I don’t think would hear the difference in sound quality.
Absolutely correct. You're unlikely to recognise the difference.

Archimago had published a worst case comparison (high gain RCA and volume pot set to -3 dB instead of XLR and bypass) and while there was a slight deterioration, the results were still impressive (and fully noise dominated at low levels).


Also, I’m more interested in the A5se. The difference in price is better spend on improving the acoustics of my room and speaker setup. Also, the numbers used are more for illustrative purposes, I couldn’t actually find independent measurement data for the speakers I’m interested in.
If the impedance of your 6 ohm really doesn't drip noticeably below 4 ohm this should be no problem.

What are your speakers? Maybe other members know about other sources or have performed measurements themselves?
 
Last edited:
I wasn’t talking about 4 Vrms, but 4 milli Vrms here. I was wondering at what SPL threshold the amp would turn off when using the balanced input, that’s where the 4 mVrms came from.
Ah, got it, yeah, it would be great if the auto-on trigger was around 0.5 mV (18 dB lower). Always tough to set these as there are other situations where the auto-off never happens.
 
Absolutely correct. You're unlikely to recognise the difference.

Ärchimago had published a worst case comparison (high gain RCA and volume pot set to -3 dB instead of XLR and bypass) and while there was a slight deterioration, the results were still impressive (and fully noise dominated at low levels).



If the impedance of your 6 ohm really doesn't drip noticeably below 4 ohm this should be no problem.

What are your speakers? Maybe other members know about other sources or have performed measurements themselves?
I’m looking into getting the Kanto Yu 5.25” Passives. I’m pretty limited in the space available for the speakers, so these seem like the best compromise for their price. I can’t find much data on them outside of the limited specs from the manufacturer. I don’t think this is the right thread to discuss my speaker choices though.

Anyway, it’s good to know that the 3e Audio A5se is still a good option for me then. Anyone know what the power consumption figures are between say, 2 x 5 W output to the speakers, no sound but still in auto-on and once it has switched off automatically? (On standby would probably be more accurate, I think.) In the end, these are all just details and affect the ease of use more than actual performance. I have little issue with having to switch my speakers/amp on manually, just more convenient otherwise.

@TurtlePaul Wouldn’t a higher auto-on trigger compared to the auto-off trigger also be better? Say, it powers on at 1 mVrms and powers off after 5 minutes of < 0.5 mVrms.
 
I'm still wondering what listening conditions overload a 250+W amplifier with speakers that don't even dip below 3.4 Ohm. Would be nice to know.
You're welcome to come listen.;)
 
I can clearly see the goo creeping in from the left in the left opening:

View attachment 420521
This is a very clever goo XD I checked it again and it is indeed there, I have no idea how I didn't notice it while taking photos. Maybe because I was guided by the photo from Audiophonics, in which the goo clearly covers the empty opamp socket. If I opened the case there would be no doubts...
 
Are these ready made amps using the same DIY boards like 480-1-29A or 260-2-29A?
 
Are these ready made amps using the same DIY boards like 480-1-29A or 260-2-29A?
No, they are newer developments specifically for these amplifiers.
 
Back
Top Bottom