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Topping PA3s Review (Desktop Amplifier)

Thanks for your reply. It's 12V and I explained further in my response to restorer-john just above.

"No, it has only 12V. But I can easily find a laptop charger that can be connected to a cigarette lighter jack. The problem is, they only support up to 24V - couldn't find anything higher."

So I'm trying to use the 12V cigarette jack in my car for the power source. Since it's (probably) not directly connected to the generator or battery itself, my guess is I wouldn't have to worry about the voltage fluctuation or generator noise you mentioned. May I ask your opinion about this?
There is no problem under those conditions of use. As long as there are no problems with the specifications of the 24V DC/DC converter you are using, you should be fine. A common problem is converter noise mixed into the PA3s output. The only way to know this is to actually try it.
 
I just received my PA3s. It seems quite powerful, and the sound is clean and clear (even via my KEF Q100 speakers, which aren't the best). My little gripe with it is in terms of usability: the speaker wire binding posts on my unit have the through holes all going up-down, instead of sideways or at least at a 45 degree angle; and the holes are tiny. These factors make it painful to wire without mini banana plugs. In particular, the black wires at the bottom tend to cause the rear of the unit to be jacked up a bit off the desk unless you've got *really* soft wires.

In contrast, the S.M.S.L. DA-6 has much more sensible speaker wire binding posts: bigger through-holes and the through-holes are at 45 degree angles.
 
Could anyone help me showing how to disassembele this amplifier? I am quite an expert on repairs in audio, but this thing got me..... I removed the back panel screws, the board starts to slide out, but after about two inches is is stuck. How on the earth can I disconnect the front panel to PCB cable??
 
Could anyone help me showing how to disassembele this amplifier? I am quite an expert on repairs in audio, but this thing got me..... I removed the back panel screws, the board starts to slide out, but after about two inches is is stuck. How on the earth can I disconnect the front panel to PCB cable??
This is for the PA3, but perhaps is useful for the PA3s as well

Post in thread 'Topping PA3: subjective impressions'
https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...g-pa3-subjective-impressions.7642/post-573109
 
Thanks a lot, this is it! Well, I don't know where I can get the necessary extra long shaft 2 mm hex screwdriver, but I'll try.....
Manufacturer's site:
 
Well, it's OK that they carry that line, but in my country (Hungary) no similar product exists or stocked by any dealer.... I'll try to order one from Germany.
Anyway, that's a quite stupid idea to mechanically construct an audio gear that way, necessitating the use of very specialized tools. :(
 
I bought one, as my tube amp needs repair. I'm using a wiim pro coax out into a Topping D90 and into to Pa3s via rca into Klipsch Heresy IV speakers. It sounds very good indeed. 5% of the price of my other amp and 99% of the performance! Well done, Topping.
 
Hello, I own this amplifier (PA3s) and I want to pair it with a set of Sony SS-D105 speakers rated @ 6ohm. Will I damage the amp if I plug them in?
Why? Why not?
 
I own this amplifier (PA3s) and I want to pair it with a set of Sony SS-D105 speakers rated @ 6ohm.
I suggest frequency sweeping them to test for any issues and then after you know they are operating well.
 
I don't think you'll damage anything. I attached the amp to my Martin Logan 4 ohm towers. I couldn't push them very hard, but when I maxed it out, the amp simply shut off. I waited a minute, connected them back to my Polk bookshelf speakers in the office, and it's worked happily ever after. The amp has a good protection shutoff circuit if you push it too hard.
 
I suggest frequency sweeping them to test for any issues and then after you know they are operating well.
Great, I will look how to do that.
Another question: I couldn't find the wattage of the speakers anywhere on the net, is it possible to calculate it? How?
 
I received the PA3s and have been testing it for 36 hours in a row, but I can't hear any hiss noise when I put my ears on the speakers.
SMSL AO200, DA-9, SA300, SAbaj A20a, AIYMA A07 also have a low level but can be heard clearly.
But with PA3s, I can't really hear hiss noise no matter how many times I check it.
I'm wondering, did you use balanced mode? I own two PA3s' and hiss noise comes out only when single ended is selected, and it's not low in level at all.
It varies with the volume control, and when the volume is max(which is ALWAYS because the gain is not so high), the hissing is louder than any of several USD 100-200 class D Chinese amps I've ever used. Roughly say it was audible from 2 feet away at a silent night.

But the strange thing is, the PA3s is dead quiet in balanced mode. Does anyone can explain why?
 
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I'm wondering, did you use balanced mode? I own two PA3s' and hiss noise comes out only when single ended is selected, and it's not low in level at all.
It varies with the volume control, and when the volume is max(which is ALWAYS because the gain is not so high), the hissing is louder than any of several USD 100-200 class D Chinese amps I've ever used. Roughly say it was audible from 2 feet away at a silent night.

But the strange thing is, the PA3s is dead quiet in balanced mode. Does anyone can explain why?
Ground loop.

The noise comes in on the ground of the interconnect (it has nothing to do with the amp, except that the amp is (like all the other components in your system) passing on the noise though it's own ground.

Balanced interconnect has the same noise - but it is added equally to the negative and positive inputs When one input is subtracted from the other within the amp, it cancels out and the noise is rejected.
 
Ground loop.

The noise comes in on the ground of the interconnect (it has nothing to do with the amp, except that the amp is (like all the other components in your system) passing on the noise though it's own ground.

Balanced interconnect has the same noise - but it is added equally to the negative and positive inputs When one input is subtracted from the other within the amp, it cancels out and the noise is rejected.
If it is the same as I observed, it;s not anything close to a 50/60Hz. It's more like a broadband white noise centered around the 2.5k region. Only shows up on sensitive drivers (in my case, 12" waveguides).

Infineon calls it out in their design whitepapers and I mentioned it in the 2nd paragraph here.


Signal needs an analog ground ref near the chip or else stray capacitance causes injected noise. Topping uses the mode without compensation in SE, so the chip does not sample AGND. Just acts as a transistor amp like proper old school design instead of using basic on-die filtering and signal conditioning.

ETA: IIRC I want to say that there was also an op-amp in an inverting output mode in SE operation which took signal after input. So the poor pot can strike twice there? I admit, been a hot minute since i was really inside the amps. Been sitting next to my speakers just... doing amp things.

Long story short, the board deviates a pretty havily from the infineon whitepapers and infineon;s own eval options so there were def cuts to hit a price point and keep a heavy chunk of profit for intl sales.

That said, the infineon eval kits are not worth the price diff because (atr least back when i was researching) I want to say they were 25%+ more and no PSU and no case?
 
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