I think, I assume Howard416 means this graph:Which transfer function graph do you mean? Please share a screenshot
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Topping PA3s Review (Desktop Amplifier)
- Thread starter amirm
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@Music1969 Many music lovers and members of the forum are confused by this graph... Although I just can’t catch these distortions by ear. Compared to other amplifiers. Maybe the ears aren't the same anymore. I'm getting old.I'm just over 60 years old.
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Yes it is not as clean as this one below but you have to pay more $ (this is the reliable model not the Discrete model with problems)
The one from the OP in this thread:
Like, I would I have to go out of my way to find one that is worse.
Of course, distortion of signals above 10kHz is inaudible, since the first harmonic is already 20kHz.
You mean *harmonic* distortion of signals... is inaudible.
correct, but being single frequency (at a time) test, that test pretty much only has harmonic distortion.
I understand. What doesn’t make sense to me is that in what seems to be every other case, an amp that does not test well in those sweeps does not do well in the multi tone. But this one does.
Not sure I've seen that - do you have a specific example?
restorer-john
Grand Contributor
Your car has a 24V outlet/supply?
Is your car's battery voltage 24V?
The PA3s power supply voltage can be used up to 26V, but as the engine speed increases, the battery terminal voltage may exceed 27V.
Well, I don't think the amplifier will be damaged, but please check the rise in terminal voltage with a voltmeter.
Also, be sure to connect the amplifier's power source directly from the battery terminal. Otherwise you will suffer from generator noise.
My full expectation would be a, with aprox 0.7dB lower output.
If it were mine, I'd be sufficiently confident to just do it - while accepting the very small risk I am wrong.
I can't see any way b or d would happen.
EDIT - and taking note of @Toku s warning - the main chip has an absolute maximum rating of 27.5V beyond which it can be permanently damaged. You need to be sure that voltage is never exceeded - including from surge/transient conditions.
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There is no problem under those conditions of use. As long as there are no problems with the specifications of the 24V DC/DC converter you are using, you should be fine. A common problem is converter noise mixed into the PA3s output. The only way to know this is to actually try it.
I just received my PA3s. It seems quite powerful, and the sound is clean and clear (even via my KEF Q100 speakers, which aren't the best). My little gripe with it is in terms of usability: the speaker wire binding posts on my unit have the through holes all going up-down, instead of sideways or at least at a 45 degree angle; and the holes are tiny. These factors make it painful to wire without mini banana plugs. In particular, the black wires at the bottom tend to cause the rear of the unit to be jacked up a bit off the desk unless you've got *really* soft wires.
In contrast, the S.M.S.L. DA-6 has much more sensible speaker wire binding posts: bigger through-holes and the through-holes are at 45 degree angles.
In contrast, the S.M.S.L. DA-6 has much more sensible speaker wire binding posts: bigger through-holes and the through-holes are at 45 degree angles.
Could anyone help me showing how to disassembele this amplifier? I am quite an expert on repairs in audio, but this thing got me..... I removed the back panel screws, the board starts to slide out, but after about two inches is is stuck. How on the earth can I disconnect the front panel to PCB cable??
This is for the PA3, but perhaps is useful for the PA3s as well
Post in thread 'Topping PA3: subjective impressions'
https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...g-pa3-subjective-impressions.7642/post-573109
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