I've heard of fake watches, orgasms and memory cards, but what on earth is a 'fake' balanced?No word about the "balanced" 4.4mm being fake balanced?
I've heard of fake watches, orgasms and memory cards, but what on earth is a 'fake' balanced?No word about the "balanced" 4.4mm being fake balanced?
Sorry I did not make myself clear enough.You can see the explanation/spectrum of the j-test signal here: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...derstanding-digital-audio-measurements.10523/
The spikes on the left at 250 Hz are what are showing up there. They are toggling the rightmost bit of a 24 bit audio sample at that rate.
I was looking for the output's square-wave (re: input) as similarly shown in your referenced link Fig.17:...show that I/O square-wave in a real-time scope view?
It is the rightmost bit of 24 bit PCM. It is toggling from -138 dB to -144 dB. This in turn is embedded into the much higher amplitude squarewave running at 12 kHz. I guess I could find a way to zoom in to show it but best to look at the actual PCM values in the link I provided.I was looking for the output's square-wave (re: input) as similarly shown in your referenced link Fig.17:
Balanced output without additional amplifier stages. Meaning that the balance connector is just there for convenience and not there because it provides more power in a true balanced format.I've heard of fake watches, orgasms and memory cards, but what on earth is a 'fake' balanced?
That's a good question, especially if the power levels and connectivity features are the same (which I've not checked) - although now when I read your last sentence I can see there are some feature differences but probably not worth the price difference. If differences just come down to SINAD differences, then in reality there probably wouldn't be much actual benefit from buying the more expensive higher SINAD one. Some people like to get the highest SINAD "just to be sure", but in reality probably no difference. The two extra features you mention aren't really worth $500, but they might be to some people & when combined with "just to be sure" re highest possible SINAD.I'm trying to understand why anyone on this site would want to buy this all in one for $700.
Apparently measurements are everything so why would you buy this over the DX3pro+. They measure within a few percent of each other with the differences out of the audible range, so should therefore be transparent so why would they sound different.
What do you get for the extra $500 other than an extra input and a balanced dac output?
I don't see why would a state-of-the-art performance device be “overpriced” at merely $699, many thousands of dollars of equipments were not as good as this.this is overpriced, $499 would be more suitable.
for the 0.01% buddies: why you even buy standalone DACs, the one in the mobo is pretty good these days, some even got es9018/38q2m on the board (yes)
again, this is overpriced
I do understand where you are coming from. I had the original DX7 for $250. It was a real bargain. the DX7 Pro ended up costing $400 a year and something later after topping wasn't known brand. But 700 is a whole new price point as the dx5 actually cost more than the DX7 originally did.I'm trying to understand why anyone on this site would want to buy this all in one for $700.
Apparently measurements are everything so why would you buy this over the DX3pro+. They measure within a few percent of each other with the differences out of the audible range, so should therefore be transparent so why would they sound different.
What do you get for the extra $500 other than an extra input and a balanced dac output?
Well just because other products from the same company have the same level of performance or even better performance for the same money. Sure this has the best DAC performance now; but the amp can't use it (a classic DX7 thing going back to gen 1).I don't see why would a state-of-the-art performance device be “overpriced” at merely $699, many thousands of dollars of equipments were not as good as this.
again, this is overpriced
I have the Æon Noire, Driving it with the E30/L30, I am scared driving them above 12 o'clock with it set at 0dB. I am not afraid they can't handle it, I am not sure my ears can handle more...?My aeon noire are getting about 2W and it’s not enough at all. I have to crank up my Topping A30 Pro to 3PM on some tracks.
The Stealth and Hifiman susvara need even more power than that.
For context, 12 o'clock unity gain should be roughly 11mW at 0dBFS input, or about 20% the perceived loudness of 2W.Driving it with the E30/L30, I am scared driving them above 12 o'clock with it set at 0dB
I'm not sure how you can say the two products are comparable. Has this Yamaha even been tested here? This is huge and cannot be used on a desk for headphone's seriously.It is totally overpriced. Who are they trying to kid? Maybe $299 is fair.
Spend just $200 more and get a 185wpc (tested at 4R) a tier one brand Yamaha amplifier with a heap of inputs, full remote, two pairs of speakers, headphone, a phono stage and including inbuilt USB Dac of good quality.
View attachment 228369
I know which one I would buy if I was in the market...
Are you adverse to bass? What are you listening to? I find that the volume position varies based on the type of music. High frequencies need very little power, bass needs lots of power.I have the Æon Noire, Driving it with the E30/L30, I am scared driving them above 12 o'clock with it set at 0dB. I am not afraid they can't handle it, I am not sure my ears can handle more...?