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NEOHIPO ET30 VU Meter Speaker Switcher Review

Rate this VU meter/Selector

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 4 1.8%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 9 4.0%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 54 23.9%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 159 70.4%

  • Total voters
    226
Still waiting on my frivolous purchase to show up but the pics here look great.
 
I've said something like that before in another thread, but I'll say it again: That thing is wasted money. Put 350 Euros on the table (or get it used for less) and get a TC Electronics Clarity M and you'll have something serious and not a toy that's basically just a light show and doesn't show any valuable information.
Not very helpful what you are describing doesn’t allow switching between speakers source does it so why even mention it it’s not comparable. Someone want in to switch between spies etc would be wasting their money on the TC Electronics Clarity M
 
Not very helpful what you are describing doesn’t allow switching between speakers source does it so why even mention it it’s not comparable. Someone want in to switch between spies etc would be wasting their money on the TC Electronics Clarity M
Yes, I got myself an ET30. Its VU meter and lights are fantastic; I really like the way it looks at night. Primarily, I use it to help me switch between two amplifiers, so I don't have to keep plugging and unplugging cables for my A07 max and FOSI BT30D PRO every time.
 
Yes, I got myself an ET30. Its VU meter and lights are fantastic; I really like the way it looks at night. Primarily, I use it to help me switch between two amplifiers, so I don't have to keep plugging and unplugging cables for my A07 max and FOSI BT30D PRO every time.
I ordered mine for a good reason, my normal amp is a Conrad Johnson tube amp running KT120 it runs hot and here in Australia in summer when it hits 40C i don't like to use the amp so i can switch to my Solid State and rest easy listening to my music :)
 
Got mine set up and it is a really nice device. Wasn't expecting to use it for anything but fun. I miss the old Technics Spectrum Analyzer I had back in the 90s and this is a nice substitute. Fits in nicely with my 20 year old equipment. Like that I could set the color to match the display on my Yamaha receiver.
 
Just buy one, test it yourself, present your results, and we'll harshly critique your review.
Putting my head forward for harsh critique here: I don't have the equipment or the experience of some other members, but I do have an ohm-meter. And this shows that the negative wire is also switched, there is no connection between the black binding posts, except the selected input and output (or the red, for that matter). Also, when the power is off (device disconnected), amplifier A and speaker 1 is connected (so if this is your default setup, it will work without power).

It would also be interresting to see the precision of the switch, if both in/out are connected simultanously at any point during switching. I might make a crude oscilloscope from a raspberry pi or arduino to check this.
 
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Because I have two pairs of speakers, I had a sudden idea today whether I could use ET30 to make all four speakers work together. So, I did the following: connect the amplifier and speaker 1 normally, then connect them together to the AMP A input port of ET30, and then connect the other pair of speakers to the SPEAKER 2 port of ET30 normally. At this time, I selected the AMP A channel and SPK 2 channel on the front panel of ET30, respectively, At this point, I found that the VU meter was jumping normally, and my second pair of speakers were also playing the song normally. I don't know if this will cause any damage to the equipment or other effects. Is there a senior engineer to help me analyze it
 
With SPK2 selected you'll be running the speakers in parallel so your amplifier will see half the impedance (assuming both sets of speakers are identical). Whether your amp is ok to drive this lower impedance depends on the amp and the speakers. If the speakers are nominally 8 Ohm and the amp is specified to drive 4 Ohm speakers you should be fine.
 
There are devices designed for this use-case, where speaker A and B can be switched on or off independently. The caveat regarding impedance is still relevant, though.

For example this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003117772207.html

Just for your reference...
If your audio gears and ears+brain would be sensitive enough, we should be careful enough about possible (slight) sound distortions given by this kind of speaker selectors/distributors. The possible distortion may be given by ferromagnetic effects (magnetizable parts/toggle-switches/rotary-switches) within the selector device.

Some companies produce rather HiFi SP selectors (expensive, though) excluding magnetizable metals as far as possible for minimizing the sound distortion. For example, I hope your web browser would properly translate these web pages into English.
https://audiodesign.co.jp/
SP selectors;
https://audiodesign.co.jp/HAS/HAS-3S.html
AMP + SP selectors;
https://audiodesign.co.jp/HAS/HAS-33S.html
Line selectors;
https://audiodesign.co.jp/HAS/HAS-3L.html
Balance Line selectors;
https://audiodesign.co.jp/HAS/HAS-3LB.html
Dual Line selectors;
https://audiodesign.co.jp/HAS/HAS-33L.html
 
I've been using it for two months, and the performance is excellent. I primarily use it to switch between my two amplifiers, and the lighting effects are impressive. I'm planning to purchase another ET30 to place on top of my living room's TV cabinet.
 
View attachment 342465View attachment 342466Because I have two pairs of speakers, I had a sudden idea today whether I could use ET30 to make all four speakers work together. So, I did the following: connect the amplifier and speaker 1 normally, then connect them together to the AMP A input port of ET30, and then connect the other pair of speakers to the SPEAKER 2 port of ET30 normally. At this time, I selected the AMP A channel and SPK 2 channel on the front panel of ET30, respectively, At this point, I found that the VU meter was jumping normally, and my second pair of speakers were also playing the song normally. I don't know if this will cause any damage to the equipment or other effects. Is there a senior engineer to help me analyze it
The SPEAKER2 connection was not measured, so it remains possible for the signal to change. It's fine if you don't mind, but just in case.
By the way, even if they are connected in parallel, I have had several experiences where the main signal changes when I connect a meter.

Note
Do not perform switching operations while outputting sound from the speakers.
I recommend turning off the amp before switching.
 
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Thanks Amir, yet another really informative review! I received mine yesterday and like it very much. The nimble hard needle flowing, better than any software VU I've used. I've never considered a VU meter as an accurate device over the past 40 years. I am just an end user however, and could see how a calibrated high end one could be useful for an engineer. I am not going to use it as a switcher but only for the VU meter display. I am confused with the wiring however. I want the optimum hookup for audio quality. I understand parallel wiring but I haven't read here about exactly how to do it. I understand having the amp wired directly to the speakers but how to wire the ET30 in? I attached 3 options. If anyone can tell me the best way I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
 

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Am I the first to have a failure? Meters were stuck. I tried to press the buttons on the front, no change of state, turned the knob for colors, no change of state, unplugged and plugged in, will respond sluggishly after several presses but doesn't work right, eventually just stuck again. Same behavior on a different 5v power source. I'm on a bad run for this kind of stuff. My 2nd PA5 is out on warranty right now. Had a NAD M10 die in the last couple years also.
 
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