Douk VU3 VU Meter Review (Updated Version)

[pseudoid]

If the thread continued to be about VU meters - in this case - as rendered by Douk; Would it not be more informative to have an audio Spectrum Analyzer display instead?

I have been seeking such a product but on the cheap, for quite sometime... just to have for giggles.
Our audio-friends - in the far-east - have a few such (audioSA) displays, one specific model provides XLR I/Os even (~$250USD)
Edit: Link price corrections.

 

[Dennis_FL]

The back panel is where the problem is *for me*:


I don't want to route heavy/messy speaker cables through this just to have a VU meter. I rather have a line level one. But maybe your needs are different.



[

Here’s the RCA version and the XLR version

 

[dman777]

Yamaha, Accuphase and Luxman all produced some TOTL power amplifiers with excellent power meters.

What about McIntosh power meters?

 

[Hipster Doofus]

Hmmm …McIntosh meters? …is that like an ugly girl with a great body…or a beautiful girl that is dumb.

no offense to female members, I just felt like stirring the pot.LOL

 

[dman777]

Here is my setup right now:

Yamaha r-n2000a used as a preamp 145 watts 4 ohms
Yamaha AS 32000 160 watts 4 ohms
Sony CD player
Sonus Fubar Lumina II speakers

I plan buying a Luxman 595 class A amp. I think it's around 60 watts, but it's much more powerful than the specs on paper.

I want to use the Luxman on the weekends and the Yamaha on the weekdays. Would this VU meter/switch box work? I read where the limit is 100 watts, but since this is class A power it's confusing. And I guess the Yamahas could be to much?

 

[KEFCarver]

Hmmm …McIntosh meters? …is that like an ugly girl with a great body…or a beautiful girl that is dumb.

no offense to female members, I just felt like stirring the pot.LOL

Okay, you stirred the pot. I love most McIntosh gear and particularly their power meters. In fact, I am building my own power meter that has two 4''x3" 400w blueish meters (am about to sent the pcb out for fab). I would love to purchase an MC402, but may be able purchase a much less expensive amp with that power and quality but no meters, so I am designing my own....

 

[KaeliKoo]

Here’s the RCA version and the XLR version

The VU22 is 45mm meter diameter - the XLR version has 35mm was the biggest difference I noted. Both look decent, I've seen a lot worse. I have a friend who has the VU22 and it looks (and feels) pretty good. Solid metal box with vents, pretty nice for the cost. He says its his "bag of weed" for his sound system...

 

[Hipster Doofus]

Love the McIntosh stuff also , built like a tank…the Harley Davison of the stereo world….I had the 2205, I Believe it weighed 84 lb. you know how you can slip your fingers even under a 45 lb unit. On this I thought it was screwed down.

 

[KEFCarver]

Love the McIntosh stuff also , built like a tank…the Harley Davison of the stereo world….I had the 2205, I Believe it weighed 84 lb. you know how you can slip your fingers even under a 45 lb unit. On this I thought it was screwed down.

"Harley Davidson of the stereo world"- love it and will start using that- thanks for the analogy!!

 

[dman777]

Question, please. For all of those that like the Mcintosh on these recent threads..... What about the pass labs int 250?

It's supposed to weigh just as much if not more than a Mcintosh and is class a for the first 15 watts. It's also supposed to have that warm sound that Macintosh is known for.

 

[jdjung]

I'm so confused after reading this thread. I have a Bottlehead S.E.X. tube amp (2 watts), which sounds great with vocals/jazz and also buying a Fosi Audio V3 for my desktop near field speaker setup if my tubes fail and for other types of music such as electronic/bass intensive tracks. (Finding a matching pair of 6FJ7 tubes is becoming difficult, if anyone knows of a reasonably priced dealer of this tube please let me know.) Additionally, the tube amp is a great heater in the winter, but not so great during the summer.

The Fosi Audio V3 according to Amir's review has a peak voltage of 83 watts with the 32 volt power supply so am I correct in thinking the Douk meter should be fine with this amp? Also, have no idea if the Bottlehead S.E.X. needs a load when not being used, as I read in this thread tube amps need a load placed on it. Is the load of the Douk meter sufficient? Also, for the meter to work do both amps need to be turned on? Why would this be the case?

To me (your opinion and preferences may be different), some music sounds better with my tube amp and some will sound better on the integrated class D amp. I saw this amp switcher and it fits my needs perfectly. I listen to music between 65 to 75 DB, according to my SPL meter with REW. Also given that I listen between 55 and 75 DB, wouldn't any additional noise by the DOUK be inaudible or nearly inaudible for most people? I'm wondering why people are saying this is just a toy when it seems like it will fit me perfectly. What am I missing?

 

[KEFCarver]

I found the VU meter to be pretty worthless as a VU meter. If you want something to monitor the output of your tube amp(s), or any amp, I would look on ebay for a Realistic APM-100 power meter. They are pretty good if your power levels are less than 100w:

Vintage Rare Realistic APM-100 audio power Meter Excellent Tested! | eBay

<p>This vintage Realistic APM-100 audio power meter is a rare find for collectors and audiophiles. It has been thoroughly tested and found to be in excellent working condition. The brand Realistic is known for its quality, and this meter model is no exception. The meter is suitable for use with...

www.ebay.com

 

[Konstantin]

Is there a way to switch between amplifier A or B externally. I mean if to output some wires, where closing them will switch to A, open contacts to B?

 

[KEFCarver]

If you want to switch between two amplifiers that are not more than maybe 100w, and don't need a remote, then I would get something like this:

Amazon.com

Put the power meter on the output that would be going to your speakers

 

[dualazmak]

If you want to switch between two amplifiers that are not more than maybe 100w, and don't need a remote, then I would get something like this:
Amazon.com

Just for your reference, some of the multi-port toggle switch, if it would include magnetic susceptible metals and/or permanent magnet(s) in it, and if your audio system is HiFi and sensitive enough, it may possible that subtle deteriorations (distortion and turbidity) would be given to your SP-high-level signals.

You would please refer to my posts here, here and here.

You would be also reminded that the audible/measurable distortion was caused by iron (steel) plates at the SP binding posts of old-version of BUCKEYE 3 Channel Purifi Amp, and the cause (=steel plate on SP biding posts) were found/identified, then BUCKEYE replaced the parts with blass plates by a kind of recall announcement; please refer to the specific thread.

In any way, we should be careful enough, especially HiFi distortion-sensitive audio setup, whether this kind of line-level and/or SP-high-level A-B (toggle) switch would cause audible distortion/turbidity, or not.

 

[dualazmak]

As a follow-up of my above post #255, let me share about professionally built SP-level and Line-level manual selectors consists of non-magnetizable parts including nice durable rotary switches. Hope your web browser would properly translate these pages into English.

https://audiodesign.co.jp/
SP selectors;
https://audiodesign.co.jp/HAS/HAS-3S.html
AMP + SP selectors;
https://audiodesign.co.jp/HAS/HAS-33S.html
Line selectors;
https://audiodesign.co.jp/HAS/HAS-3L.html
Balance Line selectors;
https://audiodesign.co.jp/HAS/HAS-3LB.html
Dual Line selectors;
https://audiodesign.co.jp/HAS/HAS-33L.html

 

[Konstantin]

If you want to switch between two amplifiers that are not more than maybe 100w, and don't need a remote, then I would get something like this:

Amazon.com

Put the power meter on the output that would be going to your speakers

Thanks!

 

[Konstantin]

Does anybody have schematics of UV3?

 

[KEFCarver]

Thanks!

You are welcome. BTW, I have two of the switches I referred you to and find they work well. I do not switch between my amps that often, and it is easier than reconnecting wires to amps. I measured the switch and there was basically no degradation to the audio signal.

 

[jdjung]

If you want to switch between two amplifiers that are not more than maybe 100w, and don't need a remote, then I would get something like this:

Amazon.com

Put the power meter on the output that would be going to your speakers

Thank you, will likely go with this option. Has anyone tested this switcher though?