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In need of a builder...

wouldn't just using super sensitive woofers be a better answer, and then just EQ them with DSP?
Having looked for such woofers and not found any, @voodooless is right, there tends to be a trade-off between LF extension and sensitivity. There is a fairly clear explanation why, based on T/S parameters that I don't really understand.
 
Ya know... speaking of loops, this just popped back into my head https://piratelogic.nl/?p=en.drivers.08s5 If I do a sealed enclosure, any chance I could integrate that into the signal chain?
Yes, you could. It would probably work even on one woofer. It lowers distortion, acts as EQ as well. Obviously excursions limits apply unaltered. It will not work with a Hypex fusion amp though.
 
Having looked for such woofers and not found any, @voodooless is right, there tends to be a trade-off between LF extension and sensitivity. There is a fairly clear explanation why, based on T/S parameters that I don't really understand.
The short answer is there's a difference between getting there and getting there well. https://braneaudio.com/technology This was shown to me recently. Tiny driver that supposedly bypasses hoffman's iron law. https://www.rtings.com/speaker/reviews/brane/x Here's how it measured. Not great. If I was just looking to "get there" I could go with PA drivers. They wouldn't sound great, but they would definitely give me the response. That's why in hifi its such a challenge getting nice clean low end.
It will not work with a Hypex fusion amp though.
Well then Seas push-pull it is! lol. Not a tragedy. Only thing then I would need to figure out is what I can use to stuff it with to compensate for the lack of space. Don't think rockwool will be enough...
 
Edit: By that rationale, wouldn't just using super sensitive woofers be a better answer, and then just EQ them with DSP?
If only it were that straightforward! At the risk of oversimplifying:

Suppose that a 100 dB efficient woofer would need 20 dB of EQ in order to be "flat" to 20 Hz. And suppose an 80 dB efficient woofer would need zero dB of EQ to be "flat" to 20 Hz. So both would need the same amount of power at 20 Hz in order to be "flat" to 20 Hz in the same size box.

In the real world, the characteristics required for a woofer to be 100 dB efficient include a lightweight voice coil, which in turn would have low thermal power handling and would probably not be long enough to give a decent x-max. On the other hand the 80 dB efficient woofer would probably have a long, heavy-duty voice coil, so it would be able to play much louder at 20 Hz before running into excursion limits or thermal limits.
 
If only it were that straightforward! At the risk of oversimplifying:

Suppose that a 100 dB efficient woofer would need 20 dB of EQ in order to be "flat" to 20 Hz. And suppose an 80 dB efficient woofer would need zero dB of EQ to be "flat" to 20 Hz. So both would need the same amount of power at 20 Hz in order to be "flat" to 20 Hz in the same size box.

In the real world, the characteristics required for a woofer to be 100 dB efficient include a lightweight voice coil, which in turn would have low thermal power handling and would probably not be long enough to give a decent x-max. On the other hand the 80 dB efficient woofer would probably have a long, heavy-duty voice coil, so it would be able to play much louder at 20 Hz before running into excursion limits or thermal limits.
By that rationale I should just order one of those beryllium woofers from Paradigm and have a funeral for my wallet :p
 
Edit: I actually just checked a quote I had for one of those woofers... it's cheaper than 2 seas...

Edit edit: Nah I'll stick with the 2 seas. It's like @voodooless said, SPL can be an issue, and 6db is a lot.
 
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Definitely looks cleaner. Need to figure out if i need to shape that horn any particular way. Oh wait @Duke master of horns!!! What do I need to calculate for the exit horn of the subs?
 
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Definitely looks cleaner. Need to figure out if i need to shape that horn any particular way. Oh wait @Duke master of horns!!! What do I need to calculate for the exit horn of the subs?
That horn is way, way too small to function as a horn at subwoofer wavelengths.
 
That horn is way, way too small to function as a horn at subwoofer wavelengths.
Nah not that kind of horn, and yes, DEFINITELY not big enough for sub horn. Just something to be there instead of just a slot. Something to be able to give a smooth transition to outside the enclosure.
 
The slot also looks very narrow. You could do similar to this, but move the woofers behind the MTM again, keep the slot. It can then exit from two sides, given more exit area. Still, I would make the slot a bit larger. With 25 to 30 Liters, the 2 L22ROY2s should still be okay, and it won't look as bulky.

Here: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/in-need-of-a-builder.56148/post-2072433

you also have way too much room for the amp. It only needs 12mm of additional room. And you don't need such a thick divider, 9mm is probably enough if you add some bracing, or maybe you can have some plastic vacuum-formed part made to isolate the amp compartment, eating up even less valuable space.
 
The slot also looks very narrow. You could do similar to this, but move the woofers behind the MTM again, keep the slot. It can then exit from two sides, given more exit area. Still, I would make the slot a bit larger. With 25 to 30 Liters, the 2 L22ROY2s should still be okay, and it won't look as bulky.
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So something closer to this?
you also have way too much room for the amp. It only needs 12mm of additional room. And you don't need such a thick divider, 9mm is probably enough if you add some bracing, or maybe you can have some plastic vacuum-formed part made to isolate the amp compartment, eating up even less valuable space.
Oh that was just because I didn't figure out what to do with it for that design yet lol
 
So something closer to this?
Yes, that's more like it. Obviously the slot also takes op space, so simply pointing outwards will gain you a few liters. But this looks pretty cool. Also not sure if this is usable up to 200Hz. I would probably try to simply use a single space for all, or cover the midranges in small domes to maximize woofer space. Why are the top and bottom so thick? Can't that be used as enclosure space?
 
I would probably try to simply use a single space for all, or cover the midranges in small domes to maximize woofer space.
The idea there was just to mechanically isolate the MTM. Nobody says I can't shift around some space, but I still do need at least 11 liters or so for the MTM.
Why are the top and bottom so thick? Can't that be used as enclosure space?
Old design derived from another. That can be cleaned up no sweat.

Edit: even with a couple inches shaved off, that one is still about 2ft tall. The funny horn box, while it doesn't look as clean, is more compact.
 
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but I still do need at least 11 liters or so for the MTM
No, you don't. less than 5 Liters is enough, you could even get away with as little as 3 Liters with some good stuffing.
 
No, you don't. less than 5 Liters is enough, you could even get away with as little as 3 Liters with some good stuffing.
Ok I can slim down that chamber. Along those lines; I'm considering maybe upgrading to the 503. If I'm going to be compensating as much as you say in terms of low end, I may want some more power to spare.
 
If I'm going to be compensating as much as you say in terms of low end, I may want some more power to spare.
Just note that you can't put in more than 350W until you reach Xmax down low.
 
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Work in progress. Looks like a tie fighter
 
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