Any pictures?FWIW, I 3D printed the XMechanik Mechano23 speakers. I've designed cabinets before, but this was the first time 3D printing anything of this size. I built a test box to test out some materials and settled on PETG for the combination of strength and dampening. Dealing with the warping of the components was not fun, though. In the end, they turned out great and I'm really happy with how they look and sound. Getting there wasn't trivial though.
Render here - https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...axis-measurements-included.41757/post-2229465Any pictures?
Render here - https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...axis-measurements-included.41757/post-2229465
Print here - https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...axis-measurements-included.41757/post-2247946
My son got this first version -- we built it together. I'm currently working on another print to see if I can't mitigate that warping by printing 2 halves on the back where I really won't care and by trying to do a bit of work optimizing a few supports rather than avoiding them.
Sure -- here's a link. Mind you, I'm still early in learning FreeCAD. This version fixes a few issues and is also setup to try to have the braces not need supports when printing. But, if anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them.can you share the 3D files too?
Sure -- here's a link. Mind you, I'm still early in learning FreeCAD. This version fixes a few issues and is also setup to try to have the braces not need supports when printing. But, if anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them.
This was bulk Sunlu off eBay. I had a lot of warping to deal with in those first ones. One was done in 4 layers and the other in 8 layers, which helped considerably. I've flipped the print direction now to have driver holes up so that it would only be the backs that would warp. I'll know in a day if it worked
JB Plastic Weld epoxy for bonding and for some gap filling. Bondo and then the red bondo putty / glaze and finally filler primer and paint.
BTW, printing them in 2 parts with drivers up was the winning solution. Top half came out great! I've added some screw holes to mount the xover on the bottom half.thx - really helpful
Too slow on this, but if you are set up to take measurements I'd be curious what impact doing a more organic-shaped cabinet might be - namely smoothing out the outside and also adding irregular structures on the inside to further combat resonances / standing waves.if anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them.
LOL, the test box I did tried out PLA, PETG, and TPU and also had a 2D Gordon curve surface test. I'm not sure at all though that the variation I can reasonably get (say +/- a cm or so) will affect the standing wave frequency for anything not controlled by the tweeter anyway. It would impact the resonance of that panel though. I used a piezo type pickup mic to look at resonance of the panel and it might have helped a bit.Too slow on this, but if you are set up to take measurements I'd be curious what impact doing a more organic-shaped cabinet might be - namely smoothing out the outside and also adding irregular structures on the inside to further combat resonances / standing waves.
I'd be willing to help model it if you were planning on building more, but otherwise nice work on the prints!
What printer are you using? (my guess is one of the Bambu units?)
Hmm, good point. I was thinking egg shapes of some sort...If we go much further, though, in terms of egg shapes or whatever, we'll need to rework the xover a bit and this is a super-optimized xover to begin with (see the thread on these speakers for more).
I guess it really depends on how big you're willing to let the exterior of the speaker get, which in turn probably means breaking it into more pieces, more difficult assembly, etc.I'm not sure at all though that the variation I can reasonably get (say +/- a cm or so) will affect the standing wave frequency for anything not controlled by the tweeter anyway.
It would impact the resonance of that panel though.
I'd suggest looking at papers on metamaterial absorbers and diffusers as they work with panels much thinner than the target wavelength. They tend to use either Helmholtz resonators, or folded tuned pipes embedded in the panel similar to KEF's metamaterial absorber. The structures could potentially act as the infill too. This is of course much easier to say than doMy broad idea is to have scattering surfaces inside the cabinet to break up standing waves, on the other hand, it's probably true that you can't do any internal structures big enough to matter much for woofer frequencies. Even 2Khz is 170mm.
Good questions. The water is part of the chemical reaction in the plaster that makes it set, so there are no volatiles or off-gasses. The reaction is exothermic though so maybe pour in parts for a large enclosure in case it heats up enough to deform/melt the plastic.Depending of what you have used, it might take weeks or months for the volatiles to go away and the shrinkage/cracks to appear. You don't mention how long have you waited before running the CT, but if not long, I would suggest to repeat after some time. Can you measure moisture level?