In need of a builder...

[BKr0n]

Due to some recent life events I no longer have the means to make my own DIY speaker, but I would still like to have a custom speaker. I am in need of a builder. Yes, this is a paid gig. If you are local to eastern PA, then that's even better. If you're interested, please either post here or send a PM. I'm open to either traditional (wood etc.) construction or something a little more modern (3d printing etc.).

 

[BKr0n]

bump

 

[Duke]

bump

I do custom work from time to time; for instance, I built the big speakers in this post.

And I have access to a custom furniture maker who does heirloom-quality work.

What do you have in mind?

 

[Doodski]

I do custom work from time to time; for instance, I built the big speakers in this post.

And I have access to a custom furniture maker who does heirloom-quality work.

What do you have in mind?

Hot dang. Those are impressive looking monitors in that studio! They look like Genelecs.

 

[Duke]

Hot dang. Those are impressive looking monitors in that studio! They look like Genelecs.

Ha! Thanks. I think my big MHM's (mid-horn-mid) uppers have a considerably narrower pattern than Genelecs usually do. I made sure the studio designer (Jeff Hedback) and I were on the same page as far as how their radiation pattern would interact with the room.

 

[Doodski]

Ha! Thanks. I think my big MHM's (mid-horn-mid) uppers have a considerably narrower pattern than Genelecs usually do. I made sure the studio designer (Jeff Hedback) and I were on the same page as far as how their radiation pattern would interact with the room.

Sounds very cool. You are far beyond my abilities and my theoretical conceptual visualization abilities. I really love speakers but I acknowledge my limitations and I have no formal study in them other than the Xc and Xl reactance stuff which I am thoroughly trained in decades ago. I have a good handle on the operations but I can't operate the maths as well as before when it was fresher. So I am impressed majorly.

 

[kemmler3D]

@BKr0n if things don't work out with @Duke you might try the DIYAudio forum, lots more builders over there, some of whom take commissions.

 

[BKr0n]

What do you have in mind?

Oh hey Duke!

I wanted to make a set of workhorse active monitors for nearfield to small/medium room.

Something like that (I've been reteaching myself how to CAD lately). MTM with side firing woofers. Although I would like to have a zero defraction enclosure if possible.

The drivers I had in mind were two 4" purifi woofers, RAAL 70-20, and a pair of L22ROY2 for the woofers.

Sounds very cool. You are far beyond my abilities and my theoretical conceptual visualization abilities. I really love speakers but I acknowledge my limitations and I have no formal study in them other than the Xc and Xl reactance stuff which I am thoroughly trained in decades ago. I have a good handle on the operations but I can't operate the maths as well as before when it was fresher. So I am impressed majorly.

Everyone has to start somewhere. I didn't really know a thing about speaker design a year ago. Now the only thing that's stopping me is the fact all my tools are gone

@BKr0n if things don't work out with @Duke you might try the DIYAudio forum, lots more builders over there, some of whom take commissions.

That was actually my first stop, but surprisingly I didn't get a whole lot of responses.

Edit: I was also looking for it to be active. Probably a Hypex 253

 

[voodooless]

Everyone has to start somewhere. I didn't really know a thing about speaker design a year ago.

It surely seems you've come to your senses and set yourself a realistic target this time around. Good!

This looks like a plausible design, though I think the ribbon in your CAD drawing doesn't have the right proportions, and if it does, I would probably urge for one with a lower height footprint to keep the center-to-center distance of the midranges as small as possible.

I don't know if you do have some limited capabilities left for DIY'ing? There may also be some hybrid solutions, where you have all the panels CNC cut, leaving you only the assembly, which can be done with some basic tools, like tape, glue, and maybe a few clamps. Or you could even leave it to a local woodworker. They could also help with veneer or a paint job. Or you could ask a local car painter for a nice paint. You'll need to double up some more on your CAD skills though to get the designs CNC-ready.

 

[BKr0n]

This looks like a plausible design, though I think the ribbon in your CAD drawing doesn't have the right proportions, and if it does, I would probably urge for one with a lower height footprint to keep the center-to-center distance of the midranges as small as possible.

I've actually been considering switching out the tweeter. The RAAL 70-20XR, while still relatively small, still juts out like that from the baffle. I may need to just suck it up and go with something like a beryllium tweeter to get similar performance to a ribbon. This would also have the additional benefit of having the two mid drivers center to center distance be closer together.

I don't know if you do have some limited capabilities left for DIY'ing? There may also be some hybrid solutions, where you have all the panels CNC cut, leaving you only the assembly, which can be done with some basic tools, like tape, glue, and maybe a few clamps. Or you could even leave it to a local woodworker. They could also help with veneer or a paint job. Or you could ask a local car painter for a nice paint. You'll need to double up some more on your CAD skills though to get the designs CNC-ready.

To make a long story short, it's all gone. I would need to start building up tools again from square one. As far as CNC is concerned, I did look into that. Problem there is I wouldn't have a lot of room to mess around with the internal cavity. If I did it in multiple pieces, then it would turn into an entirely different project altogether.

I looked into 3d printing as well. Unfortunately with a design like this it may be a little too big for typical printers even if done in parts. Additionally there's also things like material to consider, and filaments that have higher youngs modulus are difficult to print in large format. That goes double for any small details.

 

[kemmler3D]

Unfortunately with a design like this it may be a little too big for typical printers even if done in parts.

Nothing wrong with large prints in many parts if you have the guts and the patience...

3D printing a QRD N53 diffuser

Hey all, in order to finally live up to my username I'm going to attempt 3D printing something audio-related. I have always thought that 2D QRD diffusers look cool, and now I have a room to myself where I can hang one up without making common areas of the house look strange. Buying a large QRD...

www.audiosciencereview.com

(some of the) progress so far:

If I were going to print a speaker enclosure (toying with the idea of building subs someday) I would probably use ABS (so the pieces could be welded together with acetone) with a space that could be filled with concrete inside the cabinet walls. The inner and outer walls could be thinner with relatively light infill (like 10%) which would increase transmission losses aside from, you know, the concrete.

Your goal of zero diffraction is much more achievable with a 3D printed enclosure... no extra difficulty to do rounded shapes, even Vivid Giya type designs are doable if you want.

This job would require one good tool (a nice 3D printer, Bambu Lab if you want my recommendation) and a lot of CAD chutzpah, but could be done. I had thought a lot about building Purifi / Seas / Bliesma with 3D printed, rounded cabinets, waveguides, etc... before I came to my senses and got LS60s and Genelecs instead.

 

[Duke]

Oh hey Duke!

I wanted to make a set of workhorse active monitors for nearfield to small/medium room.

Something like that (I've been reteaching myself how to CAD lately). MTM with side firing woofers. Although I would like to have a zero defraction enclosure if possible.

The drivers I had in mind were two 4" purifi woofers, RAAL 70-20, and a pair of L22ROY2 for the woofers...

Edit: I was also looking for it to be active. Probably a Hypex 253

Thank you for providing this information.

Unfortunately I don't think I would be a good match for what you're trying to do, as my experience lies more in the realm of horn speakers. I would be starting from square one in trying to optimize your concept. There are many little things that need to be taken into account in a design like yours, many tradeoffs that have to be juggled, so imo you would be much better off with someone who already has experience that is directly applicable.

Also, that's a fairly (though not terribly) complicated design, and if you would want me to do an optimized three-way crossover as well, that could get expensive. Again, imo you'd want someone with experience that applies directly to what you're trying to do.

I think @kemmler3D's suggestion to try DIY Audio is an excellent one.

 

[kemmler3D]

Thank you for providing this information.

I don't think I would be a good match for what you're trying to do, as my experience lies more in the realm of horn speakers. I would be starting from square one in trying to optimize your concept. There are many little things that need to be taken into account in a design like yours, many tradeoffs that have to be juggled, so imo you would be much better off with someone who already has experience that is directly applicable.

Also, that's a fairly (though not terribly) complicated design, and if you would want me to do an optimized three-way crossover as well, that could get expensive. Again, imo you'd want someone with experience that applies directly to what you're trying to do.

I think @kemmler3D's suggestion to try DIY Audio is an excellent one.

@BKr0n I would poke around DIYAudio and look for past builds using the same or similar drivers. Both the SEAS and Purifi drivers are popular over there (as well as Hypex plate amps) and I have seen some fairly similar, very successful builds there that you could crib ideas from. Not sure about the prospect of hiring someone but I guess a DM or two would probably be a good start if you haven't already pinged people directly? IIRC the user Planet 10 does commissions but not sure they would be the right fit for this job either.

IIRC the user Patrick Bateman also does quite a lot of 3D printing and lots of creative stuff along those lines... my guess is they could handle this job, but not sure if they do commissions or just a lot of wacky projects for the fun of it. But if you want to go the zero-diffraction route I might check with them.

 

[terryforsythe]

I wanted to make a set of workhorse active monitors for nearfield to small/medium room.

You should use a sub-enclosure for the woofers on the baffle.

Although I would like to have a zero defraction enclosure if possible.

That is not possible, but you could mitigate audible diffraction effects by implementing some of the design features below. At a bare minimum implement item 1, and seriously consider item 2. Items 3 and/or 4 will provide further improvements, but probably will add a lot more cost to the project if you are paying someone else to make your cabinets.

1. Flush mount your drivers.
2. Shape the perimeter of the baffle to have a large radius, the larger the radius, the better (e.g., see https://marchaudio.com/speakers/, but it only needs to be around the baffle, not elsewhere on the cabinet). Alternatively, you can shape the baffle to side/bottom/top joints to have two ~45 degree angles in lieu of a 90 degree angle.
3. Add a convex curve to the baffle (e.g., similar to the KEF LS50 speakers - but you would only be able to do it along one axis. The KEF LS60 and Elac Uni-Reference speakers are convex along one axis, but with less curve than the LS50s, so it is hard to see from pictures).
4. It also helps to keep the baffle narrow, but your opposing side firing woofers are going to dictate the minimum width if you keep the box rectangular. You could go with a little more complex design and curve the sides in toward each other at the front of the boxes.

EDIT: For reference, the attached pictures show the convex curve of the Elac Uni-Fi Reference and KEF LS60 speakers, taken looking down at the tops of the speakers. The widths of their baffles are just a bit larger than the diameter of the drivers, so they aren't as convex as you would be able to do with your design. You would benefit from doing it more extreme like the LS50s, but probably only along one axis.

EDIT 2: For the drivers on the baffle, also put a radius or angle around the back of the cutouts, assuming the baffle is thicker than the lips of the drivers.

EDIT 3: If you are not able to do a convex baffle, you could shape the baffle like the MoFi Sourcepoint 8, which should be less expensive to do. https://www.mofielectronics.com/products/mofi-electronics-sourcepoint-8-loudspeakers-pair

 

[BKr0n]

Nothing wrong with large prints in many parts if you have the guts and the patience...

3D printing a QRD N53 diffuser

Hey all, in order to finally live up to my username I'm going to attempt 3D printing something audio-related. I have always thought that 2D QRD diffusers look cool, and now I have a room to myself where I can hang one up without making common areas of the house look strange. Buying a large QRD...

www.audiosciencereview.com

(some of the) progress so far:

oooooooooooooooooooo I like it!

If I were going to print a speaker enclosure (toying with the idea of building subs someday) I would probably use ABS (so the pieces could be welded together with acetone) with a space that could be filled with concrete inside the cabinet walls. The inner and outer walls could be thinner with relatively light infill (like 10%) which would increase transmission losses aside from, you know, the concrete.

That's actually a lot more tame than what I had in mind. Ever since I saw the HX5 article in audioexpress I've been wanting to make carbon based speakers, but that would probably be obscenely expensive ( https://audioxpress.com/article/spe...ne-hx5-ultra-strong-lightweight-nanocomposite )

before I came to my senses and got LS60s and Genelecs instead.

If I could afford a pair of 8361s I wouldn't be doing this lol

Thank you for providing this information.

Unfortunately I don't think I would be a good match for what you're trying to do, as my experience lies more in the realm of horn speakers. I would be starting from square one in trying to optimize your concept. There are many little things that need to be taken into account in a design like yours, many tradeoffs that have to be juggled, so imo you would be much better off with someone who already has experience that is directly applicable.

Also, that's a fairly (though not terribly) complicated design, and if you would want me to do an optimized three-way crossover as well, that could get expensive. Again, imo you'd want someone with experience that applies directly to what you're trying to do.

Thank you for your candor and consideration Maybe sometime down the line. Definitely some neat things I had in mind for horn loading, but that would be far more resource intensive.

@BKr0n I would poke around DIYAudio and look for past builds using the same or similar drivers. Both the SEAS and Purifi drivers are popular over there (as well as Hypex plate amps) and I have seen some fairly similar, very successful builds there that you could crib ideas from.

Funny you should say that. That was my first stop. I haven't been able to find too many. It made me start to think that side firing woofers may not be the way top go, but then I look at companies like KEF who go all in on it and do just fine. Might be just because, like @Duke said, it's a little complicated.

Planet 10 does commissions but not sure they would be the right fit for this job either.

Already asked him lol

IIRC the user Patrick Bateman also does quite a lot of 3D printing and lots of creative stuff along those lines... my guess is they could handle this job, but not sure if they do commissions or just a lot of wacky projects for the fun of it. But if you want to go the zero-diffraction route I might check with them.

Have not checked with him yet. Saw him post a little while ago so I could shoot him a DM

You should use a sub-enclosure for the woofers on the baffle.

Well the initial idea I had in mind was to just make the enclosure primarily a sub enclosure, and just tack the MTM onto it while mechanically decoupling it. The "room within a room" approach (sort of).

That is not possible

Cabasse would like to challenge that https://www.cabasse.com/

1. Flush mount your drivers.
2. Shape the perimeter of the baffle to have a large radius, the larger the radius, the better (e.g., see https://marchaudio.com/speakers/, but it only needs to be around the baffle, not elsewhere on the cabinet). Alternatively, you can shape the baffle to side/bottom/top joints to have two ~45 degree angles in lieu of a 90 degree angle.
3. Add a convex curve to the baffle (e.g., similar to the KEF LS50 speakers - but you would only be able to do it along one axis. The KEF LS60 and Elac Uni-Reference speakers are convex along one axis, but with less curve than the LS50s, so it is hard to see from pictures).
4. It also helps to keep the baffle narrow, but your opposing side firing woofers are going to dictate the minimum width if you keep the box rectangular. You could go with a little more complex design and curve the sides in toward each other at the front of the boxes.

Well then time to bang my head against the keyboard in fusion360 lol

 

[Duke]

Thank you for your candor and consideration Maybe sometime down the line. Definitely some neat things I had in mind for horn loading, but that would be far more resource intensive.

Thank you for your understanding! If I'm not sufficiently confident that I can do something we would both be proud of, then I'd rather not potentially waste your money and my time.

 

[kemmler3D]

That's actually a lot more tame than what I had in mind. Ever since I saw the HX5 article in audioexpress I've been wanting to make carbon based speakers, but that would probably be obscenely expensive ( https://audioxpress.com/article/spe...ne-hx5-ultra-strong-lightweight-nanocomposite )

You can get CF-infused filament, although it is indeed expensive (like 6x more than normal plastic, at least) and I would be concerned about the workability / post processing. You aren't going skiing with these speakers, don't get carried away

If I could afford a pair of 8361s I wouldn't be doing this lol

I am only rocking 8030Bs but no complaints so far.

 

[terryforsythe]

Cabasse would like to challenge that

Spherical speaker cabinets have very low diffraction, and low resonance - they are an ideal enclosure if you use a concentric or full range driver.

With current technology, though, you will not completely eliminate diffraction. E.q., in your WTW design the woofers will cause some diffraction of the tweeter's signal. In a concentric driver, the tweeter/woofer interface and the woofer's surround/rim cause diffraction for the tweeter, etc. If grills are used, they also contribute to diffraction. The key is getting the diffraction low enough to be inaudible. Some speaker designs achieve that.

 

[terryforsythe]

This job would require one good tool (a nice 3D printer, Bambu Lab if you want my recommendation) and a lot of CAD chutzpah, but could be done.

My 3D printer has come in very handy for my projects. Attached is a picture of the current terminal plate I 3D printed for my Elac speakers, using all banana plugs.

For aesthetic reasons I am changing over to Weipu connectors. Attached is a picture of that. I still need to make up the cables.

The 3D prints are not perfect. I am using an older Sovol SV01 and the build plate is a little beat up. I have a Bambu Lab 3D printer on my list of wants.

 

[kemmler3D]

My 3D printer has come in very handy for my projects. Attached is a picture of the current terminal plate I 3D printed for my Elac speakers, using all banana plugs.

For aesthetic reasons I am changing over to Weipu connectors. Attached is a picture of that. I still need to make up the cables.

The 3D prints are not perfect. I am using an older Sovol SV01 and the build plate is a little beat up. I have a Bambu Lab 3D printer on my list of wants.

Nice!

If you are thinking about upgrading to a Bambu printer and you have the $$ lying around, I say do it.

I have been doing this QRD print project for over a month, I'm doing the 31st plate now... no failures* except one time the first layer got messed up, I caught it using the built-in camera and stopped it before losing anything. And I haven't cleaned the build plate once, I think that was probably the issue. Well over 500 hours of printing almost non-stop, over 30KG of PLA printed (with a couple PETG prints in between) with no failures or even defects in the prints, no tinkering or tweaking in that time. 5 star review for sure.

*A few times my spool holder fell over and ruined a print, not the printer's fault.