• Welcome to ASR. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

In need of a builder...

I'm confused. The configuration in your latest drawing is not isobaric.
Ah I see. Ok so the volume of air still needs to be encapsulated. I thought it was just merely making it push-pull. My bad... :facepalm:
 
Much better...
Screenshot (394).png
 
Much better...
Where is the acoustic output coming from?

In an isobaric design a first woofer has one side exposed to the inside of the cabinet, and the other side pushing a second woofer. The opposite side of the second woofer provides the acoustic output. I.e.:

Isobaric.png


The top picture is with the woofers wired in phase. In the bottom picture they are wired out of phase. That way, both cones are always moving in the same direction.
 
Where is the acoustic output coming from?

In an isobaric design a first woofer has one side exposed to the inside of the cabinet, and the other side pushing a second woofer. The opposite side of the second woofer provides the acoustic output. I.e.:

Isobaric.png


The top picture is with the woofers wired in phase. In the bottom picture they are wired out of phase. That way, both cones are always moving in the same direction.
Screenshot (395).png


I'll be using both sides. As one driver pushes, the other becomes the acoustically driven pull and outputs the signal through the ports. In essence I'm using both sides of the enclosure as one large port.
 
@voodooless you were right! WinISD is SUUUUUUUUUUUPER simple lol
 
View attachment 391073

I'll be using both sides. As one driver pushes, the other becomes the acoustically driven pull and outputs the signal through the ports. In essence I'm using both sides of the enclosure as one large port.

If the port openings are just at the top OR just at the bottom (behind only ONE of the woofers), I think that configuration would be a "4th order isobaric bandpass" enclosure. If there are port openings at both the top AND bottom (behind BOTH woofers), I don't know what it is, but at at glance it looks like the output from the top ports would be out-of-phase with the output from the bottom port and you'd get a lot of cancellation.
 
Last edited:
If the port openings are just at the top OR just at the bottom, I think that configuration would be a "4th order isobaric bandpass" enclosure. If there are port openings at both the top and bottom, I don't know what it is.
Wouldn't that make it an 8th order then?
 
Have you tried any of their reference stuff?
I've used the RS225 in an isobaric two-way. Isobaric is quite inefficient but can work well in certain situations. Be warned that there is something WinISD calculates wrong for isobaric - I don't remember what it is but maybe impedance or total SPL.


I've also used the 4 inch RS100 and 10 inch paper cone RS270P-4 but it looks like they discontinued the 10-inch versions in the last month or two. In general the Reference Series (aluminum and paper) are great for the money.
 
I've used the RS225 in an isobaric two-way. Isobaric is quite inefficient but can work well in certain situations. Be warned that there is something WinISD calculates wrong for isobaric - I don't remember what it is but maybe impedance or total SPL.


I've also used the 4 inch RS100 and 10 inch paper cone RS270P-4 but it looks like they discontinued the 10-inch versions in the last month or two. In general the Reference Series (aluminum and paper) are great for the money.
Works for me! Although, funny enough, isobaric actually gives me a bit of wiggle room. Got about 32 liters of play, but that's also without me lining and dampening the enclosure.

Also wow this thing is way bigger than I thought it would be (phrasing boom). 10"W 19.5"L 27"H
 
10"W 19.5"L 27"H
That's verging on floorstander territory already... Maybe you could make things easier on yourself and do "bass modules" / subwoofers with the SEAS drivers and stick the MTMs on top? Still somewhat portable but you won't have to go through all these tricky designs getting them all in one cabinet.

Sorry that I am always trying to talk you out of stuff. :D
 
That's verging on floorstander territory already... Maybe you could make things easier on yourself and do "bass modules" / subwoofers with the SEAS drivers and stick the MTMs on top? Still somewhat portable but you won't have to go through all these tricky designs getting them all in one cabinet.

Sorry that I am always trying to talk you out of stuff. :D
Nah no worries bud :)

Like I was saying before, the daytons in iso only need a little over 9 liters, which is more than doable. Can probably do it sealed as well. Just may need to try another orientation for the subs and move some stuff around. The way I look at it, I'm more hopeful than before because thanks to @voodooless another solution presented itself. As long as I have a path forward I'm good lol

Edit: btw ONE purifi woofer has about 5.5 liters as it's Vas. 9 is definitely doable lol
 
Wouldn't that make it an 8th order then?
It looks like I was editing my post while you were posting.

I think the term "8th order" implies that the rolloff rate below the tuning frequency would be 8 x 6 = 48 dB per octave, and it is not obvious to me that such would be the case.
 
Yes those are good. Note, for isobaric you will wire two in parallel so would need to get the 8 ohm version, when wired in parallel will give you 4 ohms.
Using a Hypex 253 so 2 ohms for me bby :cool:
 
@Duke found an answer!

Screenshot (396).png


According to WinISD, it would be a 6th order bandpass.
 
Back
Top Bottom