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Focal Kantas 2 - Will they be underpowered with my amp?

It will work but it will be sub-optimal. That's in my practical experience.
 
It will work but it will be sub-optimal. That's in my practical experience.
How is it sub optimal if the amp turns out it isn't distorting or clipping?

I wouldn't change a very nice amp as the A-S3200 if there aren't any issues.
 
How is it sub optimal if the amp turns out it isn't distorting or clipping?

I wouldn't change a very nice amp as the A-S3200 if there aren't any issues.
I wouldn't either. I just look at the numbers, though, and I'm not certain it will work.

@dman777 has asked a lot of questions about new speakers and components over months, and I suspect the Kantas are a good speaker for him from what he's listed. I don't want to put him off them... but if the amp doesn't work well then there's more expense coming, so in this case it's best to be prepared to change the amp only if needed.
 
55dB to high 70dB is very quiet for music listening.
Only if those are peak numbers, and I suspect they aren't; as I said earlier, listening at "high 70s" implies peaks in the 90s with dynamic music.
 
Just now I was getting at most 82 dB C-weighted peaks a few inches in front of my face on GD live at Capitol Theater, 1971, from about 12 feet away from the speaker plane. That's as loud as I think it's reasonable to listen to it. No strain. No flashing clipping lights.
I'm haunted by the possibility that I could be experiencing even less than "no strain" by getting a second AHB2 and running them in mono. I've never seen the clipping lights lit, but I wonder if they're fast/sensitive enough. Or if they are even working. I'm getting close to biting the bullet and trying a second one. Another factor is that I live 50 miles from them. It would be very neighborly of me. Rory R. of Benchmark says the low impedance at lowish frequencies wouldn't be a problem. But he also says if I don't see the clipping lights there's no reason for a second one. On yet another hand, maybe he's playing some kind of freaky mind game with me. Thinking I'll reward Benchmark for their honesty and apparent lack of greed. It's a tough decision.
 
Only if those are peak numbers, and I suspect they aren't; as I said earlier, listening at "high 70s" implies peaks in the 90s with dynamic music.
No, my tinnitus won't be able to tolerate 90s. If I listen to music in '70s, it will peak in just the '80s. Never in the '90s. At least that's the behavior with my bookshelf lumina 2.

If it was kantas 2, would it peak in the 90s If it stayed in the '70s?
 
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I like Focal Kanta's 2. I have heard them in a store off of a McIntosh 1200 amp which was 350 watts the 8 ohms. The speakers are 50-300 watts rating at 8 ohms. Right now I have a Yamaha AS-3200 which is only 100 watts at 8 ohms. Is that going to significantly under power the focals?

They are specified to be relatively efficient speakers.

The extra watts give a little more in the unlistenably loud area.

My guess would be that you'll be ok.

A crude chart of SPL vs Power

1697063173402.png
 
If it was kantas 2, would it peak in the 90s If it stayed in the '70s?

Recorded music tends to have a 15 to 20dB peaks above average in my experience, when visualized using REW's SPL Meter.
 
For around $1k, you can get the new Hypex NCx500 or Purifi 2 x 380w at 8 ohm at Buckeye. Completely transparent. Still use the Yamaha, can put the Buckeye out of sight even. Eliminate FOMP - fear of missing power. These decisions are as much a psychological thing as anything else.

Edit: That Yamaha retails for 8 grand? Yikes. I like the meters.
 
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Right now I have a Yamaha AS-3200

Looks like it should deliver a rather studly 100 watts to my eyeball...

1697065069674.png

Certainly not cheap...

 
You are fine. Really. It has somewhat mediocre but healthy dynamic power capabilities down into 2 ohms. Enjoy your big lovely lump of a Yamaha amp.
If something sounds distorted you know what's up.. Turn it down or sell it (very cheaply incl. shipping to me)

1697081708913.png
 
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I'm haunted by the possibility that I could be experiencing even less than "no strain" by getting a second AHB2 and running them in mono. I've never seen the clipping lights lit, but I wonder if they're fast/sensitive enough. Or if they are even working. I'm getting close to biting the bullet and trying a second one. Another factor is that I live 50 miles from them. It would be very neighborly of me. Rory R. of Benchmark says the low impedance at lowish frequencies wouldn't be a problem. But he also says if I don't see the clipping lights there's no reason for a second one. On yet another hand, maybe he's playing some kind of freaky mind game with me. Thinking I'll reward Benchmark for their honesty and apparent lack of greed. It's a tough decision.
You are not making sense. But it's your money and Rory surely would think you're a nice guy if you bought another.. :facepalm:
 
Well, if you need power, I just sold my Marantz PM-10 to TMRAudio and I bet it will be listed soon. Bridged HypeX NC500.

Zero complaints. It has served me well. Ultimately, I chose the Meyer Sound Amie at which point I just couldn’t justify having the PM-10 boxed up in storage and unused while simultaneously having so much cash parked into the Meyer Sound.

1697081883939.png
 
Well, if you need power, I just sold my Marantz PM-10 to TMRAudio and I bet it will be listed soon. Bridged HypeX NC500.

Zero complaints. It has served me well. Ultimately, I chose the Meyer Sound Amie at which point I just couldn’t justify having the PM-10 boxed up in storage and unused while simultaneously having so much cash parked into the Meyer Sound.

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It's funny to see how the Yamaha A-S3200 has the exact same power into 2 ohm loads as this one.

So for low impedance loads you might just as well keep the Yamaha and even if it isn't rated at 1 ohm it would probably do a lot better than 175 W dynamically as it has 300 W at 2 ohm..
 
It's funny to see how the Yamaha A-S3200 has the exact same power into 2 ohm loads as this one.

So for low impedance loads you might just as well keep the Yamaha and even if it isn't rated at 1 ohm it would probably do a lot better than 175 W dynamically.

Depends if you need 1 ohm. The way I look at it is that at 2-8 ohms, you can easily sustain 325W or from 1-8 ohms you can easily sustain 175W for the PM-10.

With the Yamaha, from 2-8 ohms, you can only have 140W.

So at 40 Hz, the Marantz is delivering more power, for example.

The Meyer Sound Amie is 900W peak and unknown efficiency, but beats a KH420 at 106 dB/1m…
 
Depends if you need 1 ohm. The way I look at it is that at 2-8 ohms, you can easily sustain 325W or from 1-8 ohms you can easily sustain 175W for the PM-10.

With the Yamaha, from 2-8 ohms, you can only have 140W.

So at 40 Hz, the Marantz is delivering more power, for example.

The Meyer Sound Amie is 900W peak and unknown efficiency, but beats a KH420 at 106 dB/1m…
It was just an observation. Most energy is below 100 Hz so it would very much depend on the impedance of the speakers in this area. Dropping impedance in the lower fequencies is seen with "modern" slim speakers with small drivers to lift sensitivity to something useful. So low impedance is common in the bass. Thus you more often than not would benefit from a low impedance capable amplifier which increases in power rather than decreases. -Making it more useful for real world scenarios.

But this isn't even relevant for OP which is listening at 66 dBa.
 
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