What are the main intended differences between this and the DBR62?
Did you try temporarily removing your absorbent panels for a listening test? They might be what is lowering your high frequencies. I have a bright room now. And speakers that did sound very nice in other rooms, like Paradigm Prestige 15B's, were way too bright in here and I had to turn the treble down to -7 to tolerate them. The UBR62's are just borderline bright in here and sound is near perfection. Especially with Anthem room correction adjusting for the room up to about 900hz.Hi, people. The UBR62 just have got to me. Exactly 5 days ago. I also have a lot of loudspeakers.
They are very well constructed, designed. Top finish (the oak side walls, the baffle, the front fabric panels). The drivers and their metal frames are gorgeous, if I may say. The banana terminals are hard metal, not painted plastic.
The box itself is hard made, no bass resonance. The front bass port is giving pure and exact bass. Very pleasant, if you put your ear in front of it. I like to verify the drivers very close, to hear if they are giving what I expect. And then, I go to my listening spot (3-4m far) and confront.
The mids are very sober.
What i don't like is that he saxophone and the clarinet are low expressed. It's like they are covered with a pod lid. The sound is not bright, transparent.
My room is a 4x5m one. I have diy absorbant material panels at about 9.6m² from total of 20m² hanged from the ceiling.
All my other loudspeakers are well bright and transparent.
UBR62 sound like they have a dip once at about 7-8khz. And twice, they should have a little bit grow at 17-20khz. Instead, the treble are the most lower from all the FR. They are under the medium SPL of the speaker.
Don't get me wrong: I can clearly see/hear that they are very well done and designed. But, in my opinion, the crossover is wrong designed in the upper spectrum.
Comparing with other speakers (Dali Sensor 3 for example), with UBR62 I have to increase @16-18khz, at about +2/3db, in order to get that crisp.
UBR are very precise and detailed. Good bass either, for a 6.5" driver bookshelf.
I am thinking to return them because of the lack of brightness and transparency.
My conclusion is:
They look better than they sound.
I am unhappy because I hoped to sound better. I know, it is a subjective opinion. But I had other speakers to compare. And much cheaper than the UBR62. Twice or more less. Not so precise and clear sound, but more transparent and crisp than the UBR62.
PS: 98% of my listening time is in flat mode (direct source). I am listening .flac and 320kbps compressed. All sourced from CD or studio masters.
Ok, I'm not sure then. In my room there is a 2db to 4db dip in the most fatiguing 1khz to 4khz range, which my sensitive ears need.The absorbant panels were needed because the room has no carpet on the floor and the walls are almost empty, so the room, without them, has a hall echo. All the speakers that I have sounds better after the panels were installed.
All the speakers sounded bad before the panels instalation, due to the echo in the room.
If we look at the Erin measured curve we can see that the FR is down from low to high, with a deep dip at 7-8khz.
The sound signature of the UBR62 I am talking about is the same, either in the room (3-4meters away), or in the near field of them. So it is not a room treatment issue.
I am very permissive/tolerant with the sound. I can easily adapt. But, in the UBR62 situation, I can not. It is too obvious.
PS: and 83db real SPL ...
Sorry they didn't work out for you, but to me and in my room they sound exactly like what you were looking for.I understant. I am talking about what drivers from the UBR62 gives/sounds, in the near field.
I am also a DIY enthusiast, made some 8 designs of crossover for some loudspeakers. And what was the measure that was the sound. I am talking near field. I am using DATS and OmniMic. They are damn precise and real.
I tought that UBR62 will have some damn crisp, transparent, that gives emotion. Because that's what sound has to be: emotion/feeling. If it just sound correct, or at least good, but do not produce emotion, it is in vain.
The tweeter of the UBR62 is shy. It doesn't shine. It is not bright. And to be clearly, the driver is NOT the problem. The driver is excellent. It's getting high in the frequency. The crossover is. It keeps the tweeter back a few db from the overall sound line.
Compared only with a cheap and dirty sound from Heco Victa series... the last one sounds more bright and produce emotion. I know I am comparing two different classes of loudspeakers, but I am doing this on purpose.
The sound that gets out of the UBR is like the sound that gets through a Dolby C NR filter, from an old cassette deck. It's like compressed, poor. It is detailed, but drained somehow. That dip in the 7-8khz region is making it sound also more poor.
I wanted this loudspeakers to sound good. I wanted so badly. Waited three months at pre-order.
What is happening right now with this Post? Did it accidentally end up in this thread instead of whathifi?I agreed the tweeter is holding back, got details and non fatigue going for it but missing some air. Let's get started with modding the crossover with better quality caps. In the mean time i just add a pair of
Airmotiv B1+ Pair Bookshelf Loudspeakers upside down to the chain.
Airmotiv B1+ Pair
These AMT tweeters fill in the void and it works for me otherwise a super tweeter will do.
I agreed the tweeter is holding back, got details and non fatigue going for it but missing some air. Let's get started with modding the crossover with better quality caps.
Nah i have yet to tear it apart, my first goals are to replace the satin connectors with copper ones and solidcore wires. It's robbing all the details with stock nickel binding posts.Did you get anywhere with this? I've thought about replacing the resistors with mills to start. Lot of room to strap on some 1% bypass caps. I'm definitely a fan of the MiFlex KPCU series. Youtube audio tests say I don't hear much above 16khz, so I'm not overly concerned about 16-18khz. I can hear it, but I have to stop/start the test to be certain its there.
I highly doubt that the manufacturer robbed you of those things. It serves them no purpose and costs them nothing.Nah i have yet to tear it apart, my first goals are to replace the satin connectors with copper ones and solidcore wires. It's robbing all the details with stock nickel binding posts.
Show me you can pass a blind test swapping the binding posts. Let's be honest, you know you can't.Not all things must be audible or measurable to cumulatively add up into audibility. This might be hearsay on this forum, but I don't think measurements are the last word, nor does it capture subjective experience. I do believe measurements keep us sane and on track, but beyond that its all just brain and ears.
I don't use fancy cables or connectors, so I'll just lob off a couple inches and strip the ends to replace the jumper bars. If the binding posts are really an issue, just drill the backplate and solder right to the crossover input. LOL
Aside from being funny, I have seen speakers done with outboard crossovers and the cabling cemented into place. Makes working on them so much easier.