Buckeye Amps: New US based Hypex multichannel amplifier builder, line-up announcement!

[Lonestar1027]

Good point.

 

[boXem]

Electrical safety is a bit more serious than "mmm, should be good!".
Will stop there, I wrote what I had to write.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Updating the CAD design now, will be the same cutout style and location but half the width for each cutout and more added to make up for the loss of size.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Designs updated. Trying to get them into engineering's hands for the current batch being produced. If not, they will be 2.5mm wide going forward. Thanks for catching that. Again, broken record but I am definitely open to any necessary changes needed. Also a reason I am keeping small stock of everything so I can update accordingly.

 

[PNWer]

UPDATED 10/20/20

Hey all,

Long-time A/V enthusiast with an extensive history on the AVS forums and more recently following this site for all the technical and objective expertise. After months of looking for the best amplifier setup over the summer, I went a DIY route and built a 4-channel NC502MP and 6-channel NC252MP build using Modushop cases. One of the reasons for the DIY route was the lack of sellers in the US, and at the time of my needs the offerings of US sellers was limited.

I found putting my amplifiers together a fun "hobby"/relaxing during the nights after I got home from school (working on a PhD currently). So I got to thinking, could I offer a no frills, low cost option for US buyers without much overhead/need to charge more than necessary to turn a small profit while providing a quality product? After a couple of weeks of spitballing and working on a case prototype that is cost effective, I believe the answer is yes.

I don't have a website yet or any official pictures (waiting on the cases to arrive and put one together) but I can list the official price offerings at least.

In the 19" wide x 14" deep Aluminum Case (2U):
8 channel NC252MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), 12v trigger, Power LED = $1549 shipped
6 channel NC502MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), 12v trigger, Power LED = $1599 shipped

In the 17" wide x 12" deep Aluminum Case (2U):
6 channel NC252MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), 12v trigger, Power LED = $1249 shipped
4 channel NC502MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), 12v trigger, Power LED = $1049 shipped
4 channel NC252MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), 12v trigger, Power LED = $849 shipped

In the 12" wide x 12" deep Aluminum Case (2U):
4 channel NC252MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), 12v trigger, Power LED = $849 shipped
2 channel NC502MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), 12v trigger, Power LED = $649 shipped
2 channel NC252MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), 12v trigger, Power LED = $529 shipped

My start-up is going to be slow at first. Right now I only have NC252MP modules on hand (the 502's are on backorder). And I am keeping a low stock of parts until I can see how much interest is out there. As I said, this is not going to be a main source of income or business for me. More small profit margins since this is going to be a hobby endeavor and an entry level offering for those in the States. If it gains traction, a website may be up and running by the end of the year. Until then I am open to PM's on here or my email address (if I am allowed to provide it?). As long as I have the modules in stock, turn around time for building would be 1 week maximum.

I have a 6 channel NC252MP offering officially sold to a fellow member on here who lives close to Amir. The plan is once he receives it in a few weeks he is going to ask Amir to review it. I hope to pass but am also open to being tore down if it means bettering my offerings.

It would be even better the 19" case comes with rack mount option.
Since you have screws on faceplate this seem achievable

 

[DWPress]

Ok, in the weee hours of the morning I finally finished my installation of the amp into my system. For context, I'm running active XOs for 3 way speakers with 3 subs with a miniDSP 4x10 that I feed with a digital inputs. As mentioned in a previous comment I had hoped to install a couple Icepower 125ASX2s in BTL mode in the 17" case along with the 2 NC252s already installed by Buckeye. There was just barely room in the case for this but I did it with some angled risers I fabricated out of an old PC chassis but after running it hard for a little bit I think thermally it would benefit from a bigger case. So I have 150 watts running to my mids and tweeters and 200 watts for the bass drivers. The speakers are home-built and sensitivity is relatively high at 93dB and they're big at about 6.5 cubic feet each. I have an Okto Dac8 Pro coming to replace the miniDSP and will do XO in software and it can't come soon enough now that this part of the project is finished - the balanced output phoenix terminals on the 4x10 were so flakey (maybe it was the cheap XLR cables I used) that I was forced to build some RCA-XLR cables at the last minute. Despite this suboptimal set up, happily, I hear only the faintest hiss coming from the horn ribbon tweeters with my ear next to them, certainly not an issue for me.

Since I essentially rebuilt the amp by moving modules around and rerouting cables to my liking I can comment on the build quality a bit more. All the connections were good and since they're all done with crimps it made my work rebuilding easier. In my deconstruction and reconstruction I came across no issues but opted to solder a few things in my rebuild, grounds are all good. As mentioned earlier in the thread, the speaker terminals and XLR inputs are upside down from the usual layout. This was a little more frustrating for me because I had to move plugs around quite a bit initially to get my signal routing figured out but for most people it would only be a very minor inconvenience. I will note that my (cheap) banana plugs would not fit securely in the terminals but since I had the solder iron out anyway just opted to replace them with spades. I was able to reroute the power cables by drilling through the lip of case sides that support the top and secure them with small zip ties to get them further away from things in my now crowded case and added some metal shielding as well. Sign me up for one of those replacement case tops please - the existing vent slits are a bit large (though needed now more than ever) and I considered adding screen to it from the bottom side. For my use I'm not worried about things getting dropped in or somebody poking a finger but things like mouse poo and suicidal insects are more a concern, we don't all live in sterile condos. Since the Icepower units have a different trigger mechanism than the Hypex I can't use that feature, in the initial pics I thought that was a power button on the front of the case but it's just a indicator light and the switch is in the rear integrated into the IEC socket. When I do rebuild this in a bigger case I'll add a convenience switch to the front. I will be interested in Amir's eventual review for any further pointers he and others might contribute to the build.

Listening to the amp is a delight, Class D has come into its own for sure now. I was using 3 NAD 2200s and a NAD 912 previously but had also used a 5 channel Rotel RMB-1075, various vintage Carver, Anthem, Nakamichi amps over the years for various driver pairs but all Class AB topology. At the risk of sounding like a subjective fool there is a new clarity in the midrange that had been plaguing my system for years - a sort of muddiness in difficult passages in anything from classical to pop. It's gone now, at least with every genre I've thrown at it so far. I run convolution filters created by REW and Rephase in Jriver so the system has been measured and tweaked relentlessly for over a decade. The new amp modules just drive things cleanly and effortlessly even though I have fewer watts going into the speakers than some of my past configurations. I'm a convert, Hypex performs in the real world as well as it measures in my opinion. I feel no further compulsion to tweak at the moment and once my Okto arrives I'm thinking that I'm set for a good long time with an "end-game" system and will gain even more headroom and SQ getting the miniDSP out of the way.

In short, this is a great deal for the money. If you've been on the fence about trying Hypex, Buckeye is a tremendous value. All of our communication has been great and he was willing to answer any question I threw at him and accommodate me with my own plans to further modify the package. Place your order today!



The Buckeye is in the middle of the stack between the miniDSP and a MSB ADD-1. There's a Crown for the big sub and a Sure 4x100 TK2050 in a case for different zones. The speaker pic is for scale, those are 15" woofers.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Very detailed write up. Thank you! I'm glad it is working good. And I agree with you about Hypex. Subjective or not, since I got my Hypex amps installed I haven't had to fiddle with anything. Just been happy with the sound. Period

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Some updates:

- The NC502 modules will be shipping from Hypex anyday now (they are going through their internal QC procedures, so it is nice knowing they test them before sending them out)

- I redid my own 6 channel NC252MP build (the very first DIY iteration I assembled months back) using the new setup I am building these amps around, one of them being using a single 12v relay to turn all the modules on at once. And even with my high sensitivity speakers, there is absolutely no indication of speaker pop or current inrush (lights dimming for instance) upon startup. Not saying that sequential start-up or muted start-up used by other builders isn't a benefit, but so far in my testing having all modules turn on at once isn't an issue I or others using these have reported.

 

[PNWer]

The outside dimension of 19" rack is 19.3 ".
I measured the inside width of my Middle Atlantic rack at 18 7/8".

So Buckeye Amp 18.9" case will fit inside a 19".
The problem it will need ears to secure it to the rack frame.

I have some shelves that measure 17.5" sidewall to sidewall.
At 18.9 width it will be hard to find shelf that can accomodate Buckeye Amp.

Generally the 2 ears have holes that allow them to be secured to the faceplate of the equipment.
The rackframe side of the ears have oblong holes so you can fiddle them sideways to line up with rack frame.

Since your cases have protruding faceplate screws, what I'm looking for these ears as rack option.
Left and Right. Each ear have 2 holes that line up with your faceplate screws, and the other side with 2 oblong holes 1.75" apart in height that can be screwed onto the rack frame.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Would something like this be a solution? Just drill the holes necessary to match up to the holes on the front panel of the case.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rack-panels/7213039/

 

[DWPress]

I'm not sure those M6 screws in the existing faceplate would be enough to support the enclosure long term. Better off with something purpose built for rack mounting or rig up some more substantial bracing on the inside to support it. I've seen lots of gear with rack ears bolted onto the side walls, that would work fine I think.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

I'm not sure those M6 screws in the existing faceplate would be enough to support the enclosure long term. Better off with something purpose built for rack mounting or rig up some more substantial bracing on the inside to support it. I've seen lots of gear with rack ears bolted onto the side walls, that would work fine I think.

Very good point.

I have to believe there is something on the market that would work

 

[DWPress]

I think your current case provider might have a solution but look in the computer server offerings.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

There is no easy add-on. An owner could easily buy rack ears and install them into the sides of the case. Or use a rack mount shelf like this one where the shelf doesn't cut into the overall width available.

https://www.amazon.com/RackSonic-Mount-Vented-Cantilever-Shelf/dp/B001J5S75U

 

[PNWer]

I'm not sure those M6 screws in the existing faceplate would be enough to support the enclosure long term. Better off with something purpose built for rack mounting or rig up some more substantial bracing on the inside to support it. I've seen lots of gear with rack ears bolted onto the side walls, that would work fine I think.

With the case width of 18.9" it is a good suggestion about supporting the enclosure at the side walls.
Middle Atlantic has the 19" horizontal lacer bars
https://www.middleatlantic.com/prod...es/essex-horizontal-lacer-bars/lb-1a-4pk.aspx

I have packs of 10 .
This is meant to cable tie wires/cables to dress up the bundle of spaghetti.

The 19" amp can be placed on the L-shaped lacer bars. (fixed from rack front to back)
2 Screw holes on each side of the amp case can help fix the position, so the Buckeye amp will not shift when you move the 19" rack.

All we need is 4 holes drilled in side of Buckeye amp case at the right distance apart (to fit to holes in lacer bar).

 

[bobof]

Although the openings might seem big, the only way a kid could potentially access the mains voltage is if they somehow got a 90 degree tool inside. The openings are far forward and high enough that a kid would need both freakishly skinny AND long fingers in order to get anywhere near the insides, much less the mains.
View attachment 91703View attachment 91704

There are many worldwide safety standards that cover all this and much more, it's best not trying to second guess what or why it is acceptable. Understand the standards, design to them, and we all live in a safer world.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

With the case width of 18.9" it is a good suggestion about supporting the enclosure at the side walls.
Middle Atlantic has the 19" horizontal lacer bars
https://www.middleatlantic.com/prod...es/essex-horizontal-lacer-bars/lb-1a-4pk.aspx

I have packs of 10 .
This is meant to cable tie wires/cables to dress up the bundle of spaghetti.

The 19" amp can be placed on the L-shaped lacer bars. (fixed from rack front to back)
2 Screw holes on each side of the amp case can help fix the position, so the Buckeye amp will not shift when you move the 19" rack.

All we need is 4 holes drilled in side of Buckeye amp case at the right distance apart (to fit to holes in lacer bar).

The Aluminum is very easy to drill through on the bottom panel, so if an owner wanted to modify the case to their leisure after purchasing it would be pretty simple.

Unfortunately there isn't much I can do on my end at the moment to make a rack mount option I can incorporate as I build, especially since I do not have a rack mount case/stand to test with. If someone where to purchase and find a good, secure way to rack mount it with minimum DIY work and confirmed all the steps, I could then incorporate that into my offerings going forward.

The only other consideration for choosing to use a rack mount shelf over incorporating some sort of rack ears is that the bottom panel on the larger cases (the 17" and 19" wide ones) does sag a little bit with all the weight, hence why I added a 5th case foot in the middle. This is due to the limitations of the aluminum thickness Protocase can use for the top and bottom panels (1.6mm)

 

[hdaudio]

Yes, all the amps come standard with 12v trigger for me.

@Buckeye Amps
What relay is used for the 12V trigger and the current capacity rating? Does the relay and rest of the amplifier support 240V input?

 

[sigbergaudio]

Same question as above (supporting 240V), and would you consider shipping to Europe?

Also, how about other options? RCA input? Gain control? What is the gain level like now, would it typically work well with normal preamplifiers or surround processors/receivers?

 

[hdaudio]

Suggestion, include two trigger ports (like VTV), to allow for daisy chaining of the trigger signal.