Buckeye Amps: New US based Hypex multichannel amplifier builder, line-up announcement!

[Buckeye Amps]

Here are the renders for the new Rack Mount case (fits up to 8 channels of NC252, 6 channels of NC502). The case itself is 17" wide (19" front for rack mount). Cold Rolled Steel, so won't sag. 13" deep (without connectors). 2U height.
Note, for the speakON option, the only way to fit both the XLR and speakON's is to mount them sideways. Will make it a little awkward when you disconnect, but won't affect performance or anything of that sort.

Price would be $125 extra (no matter how many channels are ordered) for the case, plus $50 more for the speakON rear plate.

 

[bigredrobotninja]

There are right angle XLR connectors if clearance is an issue.
https://www.google.com/search?q=neutrik+right+angle+xlr
https://www.cabletechniques.com/lopro-xlr-mini-xlr

Oh cool, I've never seen those before. Thanks!

 

[JonfromCB]

Thanks for the prompt reply. Are you now using cases with bottom vents?

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Thanks for the prompt reply. Are you now using cases with bottom vents?

Yup!

 

[Rottmannash]

Silly question- my amp has speakON connectors. What is a good source for buying the connectors for speaker wire? Never had an amp with these connectors but they appear very secure and I'd like to use them instead of spades.

 

[cursive]

Silly question- my amp has speakON connectors. What is a good source for buying the connectors for speaker wire? Never had an amp with these connectors but they appear very secure and I'd like to use them instead of spades.

They're very easy to find online, not sure if any local store would have them.
https://www.amazon.com/Neutrik-NL2FX-2-Pole-speakON-Connector/dp/B00OVAXIBS/
https://www.amazon.com/Neutrik-NL4FC-4-Pole-speakON-Connector/dp/B005EKMGO4/

https://www.parts-express.com/Neutrik-NL2FX-SpeakON-Connector-2-Pole-Cable-Mount-092-198
https://www.parts-express.com/Neutrik-NL4FX-Speakon-SPX-Cable-Connector-4P-092-190

I've purchased from amazon and parts-express, they typically come in plastic, or metal body for a few bucks more, both are excellent connectors.

EDIT: See jhaiders comment below for more accurate info about the different pole connectors.

 

[jhaider]

Silly question- my amp has speakON connectors. What is a good source for buying the connectors for speaker wire? Never had an amp with these connectors but they appear very secure and I'd like to use them instead of spades.

I think Markertek probably has the best price after shipping, because their free shipping threshold is so low.

Note that you can (I think) use 2-pole connectors in a 4-pole socket (but not vice versa), but the 8-pole is much larger. I would stick with 4 pole connectors for the most part. Generics are barely cheaper than real ones but you never know about quality, so pay the extra dollar or whatever for Neutrik connectors.

 

[Rottmannash]

I think Markertek probably has the best price after shipping, because their free shipping threshold is so low.

Note that you can (I think) use 2-pole connectors in a 4-pole socket (but not vice versa), but the 8-pole is much larger. I would stick with 4 pole connectors for the most part. Generics are barely cheaper than real ones but you never know about quality, so pay the extra dollar or whatever for Neutrik connectors.

Thank you.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

I think Markertek probably has the best price after shipping, because their free shipping threshold is so low.

Note that you can (I think) use 2-pole connectors in a 4-pole socket (but not vice versa), but the 8-pole is much larger. I would stick with 4 pole connectors for the most part. Generics are barely cheaper than real ones but you never know about quality, so pay the extra dollar or whatever for Neutrik connectors.

Can confirm. I use the 4-pole chassis connectors but a 2-pole cable connection end works with them.

 

[PNWer]

Here are the renders for the new Rack Mount case (fits up to 8 channels of NC252, 6 channels of NC502). The case itself is 17" wide (19" front for rack mount). Cold Rolled Steel, so won't sag. 13" deep (without connectors). 2U height.
Note, for the speakON option, the only way to fit both the XLR and speakON's is to mount them sideways. Will make it a little awkward when you disconnect, but won't affect performance or anything of that sort.

Price would be $125 extra (no matter how many channels are ordered) for the case, plus $50 more for the speakON rear plate.

The overall dimensions looks good.
One further improvement is attaching 2 rack ears to the 4 screws fixing the front to the amp case, make the amp much easier to mount on the rack.

 

[geekpryde]

I have also decided to revamp my standard case offerings, mainly by shrinking the three sizes down, especially the 2 channel case I carry. I will also be switching from aluminum to steel to add a little more rigidity (at the cost of being heavier).

Hi Buckeye,

I am new here, but I am excited to buy your 6-channel amp in the future. I am currently upgrading my Home Theater speakers from 20-year-old Paradigms to Revel M106 & Revel C205. I have been following your build, and best part for me, I will get to take advantage of all the big and little changes you are making to improve your design: wire colors, ties-downs, screws, case size, case material, bottom air cutouts, etc.

I assume when the new steel cases are ready you will announce? I won't be ready to order for several months regardless, and I would imagine your backlog will continue to grow as more and more people discover your amp.

Question: Is powering the Revel M106, with recommended amp power 50-150W with your 6 channel NC502MP amp just crazy? I don't want to damage the speakers. They are listed at 8ohm nominal, but based on measurements here, they can dip to like 5ohm. So, power supplied to these speakers is going to be quite high I believe, 350W-500W. More than double the recommended range. Is this a definite no-no, a maybe, or a definite yes?

I would gladly consider the NC252MP as well, but would rather buy more power than I need currently, assuming it won't hurt anything with my bookshelves.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Hi Buckeye,

I am new here, but I am excited to buy your 6-channel amp in the future. I am currently upgrading my Home Theater speakers from 20-year-old Paradigms to Revel M106 & Revel C205. I have been following your build, and best part for me, I will get to take advantage of all the big and little changes you are making to improve your design: wire colors, ties-downs, screws, case size, case material, bottom air cutouts, etc.

I assume when the new steel cases are ready you will announce? I won't be ready to order for several months regardless, and I would imagine your backlog will continue to grow as more and more people discover your amp.

Question: Is powering the Revel M106, with recommended amp power 50-150W with your 6 channel NC502MP amp just crazy? I don't want to damage the speakers. They are listed at 8ohm nominal, but based on measurements here, they can dip to like 5ohm. So, power supplied to these speakers is going to be quite high I believe, 350W-500W. More than double the recommended range. Is this a definite no-no, a maybe, or a definite yes?

I would gladly consider the NC252MP as well, but would rather buy more power than I need currently, assuming it won't hurt anything with my bookshelves.

Thank you for the interest!

Regarding power: the speakers will only draw what you "dictate". So even if you hooked up 1000w of power, the speakers will draw power based on what volume you listen at (simple answer).

Of course if you turned the volume up to levels well louder than your ears would be able to tolerate, you could damage a speaker...but again, your ears will dictate (in most use scenarios) how much power you actually use. And that's assuming a constant signal being generated...whereas most movies and music is ups and downs of dynamics so power draw is very very brief at high levels.

 

[AdamG]

^^^Far more Speakers have been damaged by trying to drive them with too little Watts power. It’s the amp clipping that does the most damage and the tweeters are normally the first to go. Have more power will drive the Speaker at far lower amp levels that results in cleaner signal/power and more usable head room to accommodate peaks and spikes without distribution or clipping. My advise is always get more power than you think you need, then double that.

 

[DonH56]

Steel cases, depending upon the type of steel, offer better LF shielding (mainly from magnetic fields) compared to Al (for maybe <1 MHz). Doesn't really affect me, and I already have my amps, but FYI. Al or Cu maybe better at HF (>1 MHz). Again a non-issue for the vast majority of us.

 

[Matias]

Price difference is not so great so I went with NC502MP and its 500W for a 150W rated bookshelf speakers and 250W center speaker in 4 ohms.

 

[DonH56]

Hi Buckeye,

I am new here, but I am excited to buy your 6-channel amp in the future. I am currently upgrading my Home Theater speakers from 20-year-old Paradigms to Revel M106 & Revel C205. I have been following your build, and best part for me, I will get to take advantage of all the big and little changes you are making to improve your design: wire colors, ties-downs, screws, case size, case material, bottom air cutouts, etc.

I assume when the new steel cases are ready you will announce? I won't be ready to order for several months regardless, and I would imagine your backlog will continue to grow as more and more people discover your amp.

Question: Is powering the Revel M106, with recommended amp power 50-150W with your 6 channel NC502MP amp just crazy? I don't want to damage the speakers. They are listed at 8ohm nominal, but based on measurements here, they can dip to like 5ohm. So, power supplied to these speakers is going to be quite high I believe, 350W-500W. More than double the recommended range. Is this a definite no-no, a maybe, or a definite yes?

I would gladly consider the NC252MP as well, but would rather buy more power than I need currently, assuming it won't hurt anything with my bookshelves.

I suspect the NC252MP would be way more than you need now and likely more than adequate in the future. That said, I agree with the rest that too much power won't hurt unless you overdrive the speakers (they will sound harsh or make nsty buzzing noises at that point). The power depends upon how loudly you play them, not how much the amplifier is rated (until to max it out).

I have not heard of tweeter damage from underpowering in years but I imagine it still happens. Probably more in cars. Most amps even in mundane AVRs have adequate power for reasonable speakers, rooms, and listeners these days. Back when 10 W was common and 50 W a "big" amplifier it was more an issue.

IME/IMO - Don

 

[geekpryde]

@Buckeye Amps @AdamG247 thank you for the reply regarding my worry about too much power. It makes sense now.

Buckeye, I know you have been asked for a faceplate with your logo and/or brand and model number, but for cost reasons are keeping it plain to pass on as much savings as possible, and I appreciate that. I think at some point if you are ordering enough cases, some sort of logo would be welcome. If it's a matter of $5-$10 I am sure most people would be glad to pay it. Have you priced it out to see what exactly the upcharge would be? Of course, if it becomes $50+ then your plain front starts to seem like the right choice.

Did you ever decide to screw in the cable holders, or are they still only being glued down? I am the kind of guy that keeps a receiver for 20+ years (thanks Harman Kardon), so this is more relevant to me than some people who frequently upgrade.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

@Buckeye Amps @AdamG247 thank you for the reply regarding my worry about too much power. It makes sense now.

Buckeye, I know you have been asked for a faceplate with your logo and/or brand and model number, but for cost reasons are keeping it plain to pass on as much savings as possible, and I appreciate that. I think at some point if you are ordering enough cases, some sort of logo would be welcome. If it's a matter of $5-$10 I am sure most people would be glad to pay it. Have you priced it out to see what exactly the upcharge would be? Of course, if it becomes $50+ then your plain front starts to seem like the right choice.

Did you ever decide to screw in the cable holders, or are they still only being glued down? I am the kind of guy that keeps a receiver for 20+ years (thanks Harman Kardon), so this is more relevant to me than some people who frequently upgrade.

So I have not looked at adding a logo yet because....honestly I don't even have a clue as to what I would want a logo to look like. Honestly. Don't even know where to begin with a design idea.

As for cable holders: my cases now use push mount cable ties (so pegs that push through the bottom panel and expand to catch the panel).

 

[nstzya]

So far I'm very happy with the results. The setup is a Bluesound Node 2i as the source connected via coax (S/PDIF) to a Topping DAC (D50s/P50 combo). Then RCA unbalanced out from the D50s to RCA unbalanced in on a Schiit Magnius (using this as a preamp). Then Balanced XLR output of the Magnius into Balanced input on the Buckeye. Finally the Buckeye is outputting directly into the Tekton Lore Reference pair.

Yes, it's unfortunate that the 502 requires the Magnius preamp stage. Wonder why such lower sensitivity than the 252?

So... do you "set and forget" the Magnius level and then adjust the volume how? And how are you deciding on what Magnius preamp level to set? (I suspect you're on high gain stage?)

 

[thegeton]

Yes, it's unfortunate that the 502 requires the Magnius preamp stage. Wonder why such lower sensitivity than the 252?

So... do you "set and forget" the Magnius level and then adjust the volume how? And how are you deciding on what Magnius preamp level to set? (I suspect you're on high gain stage?)

I'm using the Magnius for 2 purposes: (1) proper unbalanced to balanced conversion, and (2) set the "max volume."

I set an arbitrary max volume on the Magnius (based on wife and dog acceptance criteria) and leave it alone. I then use the Blue OS SW volume control to manage the volume below that preset maximum.

I decided to use the "Low Gain" setting on the Magnius. I experimented with both High/Low and felt that the added granularity (greater ability to fine tune the potentiometer setting) was meaningful. And, with the gain set on "High Gain," not only is it loud AF, it adds unnecessary risk when the wife occasionally decides to take matters (the volume knob) into her own hands.