• Welcome to ASR. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

Buckeye Amps: New US based Hypex multichannel amplifier builder, line-up announcement!

There are no issues using the Denon 3700/4700 with the NC502MP. The 1.4V mentioned in the ASR review was simply the best SINAD reading. The Denon receivers can offer well past 2V but you will go deaf if you leave the AVR at those power levels with the Revel 226BE. The Revel F226Be sensitivity is 88.0dB for 2.83v at 1 meter with the C426Be at 90.8dB for 2.83v at 1 meter. You will have more sound power than you need even at 1.4V with the NC502MP.

As a comparison, my normal listing level of 80dB with my Revel F328BE only requires a few watts from the Buckeye NC502MP. It's easy to worry about nothing in this hobby. :D
How do your Revels sound with the 502? Pleased with the sound quality?
 
How do your Revels sound with the 502? Pleased with the sound quality?
My Revel Concerta F12's sound very good with my NC502MP, even driven to ear-splitting levels (110 dB SPL on drum hits). But then they also sound superb on the prior B&K amps. The B&K amps just didn't have as much power.

I didn't compare them side-by-side, but I recently helped set up a friend's multichannel system. It uses a Marantz 8015 AVR, F228be fronts, C426, M-whatever surround and rears, and a couple of Revel subs (7.2 set up). After calibrating it, it was very good in stereo mode listening to music, but it noticeably didn't get as loud as my system. I think the 502 has easily twice the power of the 8015, but with less headroom (whatever that means). (I mention this simply because Marantz and Denon are so closely related.)

Rick "but can't tell the difference between a good amp at 85 dB SINAD and a great amp at 100 dB SINAD unless it clips" Denney
 
Trying to decide between a change to a new binding post (wouldn’t be until next year, if I go that route).

Which one of the two strikes a fancy?
(Both are robust, mount the same, perform the same)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0750.jpeg
    IMG_0750.jpeg
    500.2 KB · Views: 265
AFAIK the plastic cover is safer to avoid a conductor shorting 2 posts.
 
The one on the left looks more user friendly - larger knurled surface area for stubby older fingers. The one on the right looks fancier, similar to other fancy amps. I would go with the left if it were up to me.
 
The one on the right appeals to my eye. The one on the left appeals to my boring logic.
 
I would love to see the ETI Research BP-20C binding posts available on Buckeye amps. I have them on my other Purifi amp and they look amazing and work great.

Not at that cost per pair.....
 
There's a lot of hyperbole in ETI's marketing...
 
There's a lot of hyperbole in ETI's marketing...

Agree and may be even beyond that…

Was I the only one left wondering if their top of the line Kryo was Cryo(genically) treated?;););)
 
Last edited:
Steel binding post tabs/washers on pre-2023 Buckeye amps weren't a problem either until testing proved otherwise. :oops:
Well, a measurable problem, not an audible problem.

But in terms of a binding post: $30 a pair to me is way too much for something that will not have any audible improvement over $1 a pair posts.
 
Trying to decide between a change to a new binding post (wouldn’t be until next year, if I go that route).

Which one of the two strikes a fancy?
(Both are robust, mount the same, perform the same)
If you can’t use a modern speaker connector unfortunately (Speakon >>>>>>>>>> any single pole binding post) does anyone still make “Tiffany” style posts like NHT used to use? Solid metal with a hex milled into the top. If one has to settle for binding posts, that’s one to look for.
 
Trying to decide between a change to a new binding post (wouldn’t be until next year, if I go that route).

Which one of the two strikes a fancy?
(Both are robust, mount the same, perform the same)

How do they differ from a conductive material perspective?
 
From a reliability and safety perspective, the insulated binding post on the left is the better choice.

There should be no situation where something could come in contact with the output of the amplifier, or easily short circuit it (metal cabinet, wire, an RCA plug faling down the back, an XLR barrel etc, especially high voltage swing amplifiers. The EU LV directorate may also preclude any un-insulated binding posts like the (admittedly cool looking) nickel plated ones.
 
Ones gold plated brass, one is nickel plated brass.

If the gold plating is substantial (not going to wear off after a few uses), go for the gold!
 
Back
Top Bottom