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Bi-amp front speakers with receiver (internal) and external integrated amp?

Ok, so as I understand it, it won't improve the audio quality or seperation in any way, and thus completely unnecessary in my case? I would only try it if it actually helps to have more bass, or more detailed mids and highs (for instance I feel like sometimes the highs feel more far away and the bass more present).
Exactly.
Bi Wiring or bi-amping is not useful, not helpful and it won't be fun to experiment.
Your Amps are perfectly nice.

Read some of the links here if you want to find out a bit more.

Enjoy your music :)
 
If you are using an active crossover setup, yes this is a benefit (in terms of better individual control/tailoring of EQ and curves).

But this discussion (and the OP) has been focused on dispelling the myth of Bi-amping as seen on nearly most setups/source components, where there is no active crossover capability and all one is doing is merely removing a bridge on the speaker side while still using the same exact internal crossover network.
 
Most decent speakers I'd say have active crossovers but if not yes I'd say don't even consider it if you're just going to filter out any inputs through the same crossover and can't separate how you act on the two inputs then it's simply complicating your setup with additional wires. You could gain power but at what price since now you have cables everywhere and the potential to introduce more noise.
 
Most decent speakers I'd say have active crossovers
Since "most" HIFI speakers (excluding consumer bluetooth speakers, cheap PC actives and the like) are not active, they can't have active crossovers.
 
Most decent speakers I'd say have active crossovers but if not yes I'd say don't even consider it if you're just going to filter out any inputs through the same crossover and can't separate how you act on the two inputs then it's simply complicating your setup with additional wires. You could gain power but at what price since now you have cables everywhere and the potential to introduce more noise.
How do you "gain power" particularly and how much?
 
How do you "gain power" particularly and how much?
Excellent pickup on that tidbit and it's resultant question...
I missed it but now that you ask. The power output from the audio amplifier in a passive speaker system is lost in the passive crossover through heat created in the inductors, capacitors and padding resistors. In an active crossover system the crossover operation is done with OP amps and feedback resistors, capacitors and inductors but the amount of heat created is tiny tiny miniscule amounts.
 
Excellent pickup on that tidbit and it's resultant question...
I missed it but now that you ask. The power output from the audio amplifier in a passive speaker system is lost in the passive crossover through heat created in the inductors, capacitors and padding resistors. In an active crossover system the crossover operation is done with OP amps and feedback resistors, capacitors and inductors but the amount of heat created is tiny tiny miniscule amounts.
Except that most speakers only have passive crossovers rather than active, so I took his bit about gaining power to be such situations (i.e. passive bi-amping/crossover).
 
Except that most speakers only have passive crossovers rather than active, so I took his bit about gaining power to be such situations (i.e. passive bi-amping/crossover).
Hmmz... If using your perceptive methodology there would be zero power gains and increased losses in the voltage drop across the additional wires used for bi-amping.
 
Hmmz... If using your perceptive methodology there would be zero power gains and increased losses in the voltage drop across the additional wires used for bi-amping.
I didn't say zero power gain....just want to know what he thinks it is since he thinks most speakers have active crossovers....
 
I didn't say zero power gain....just want to know what he thinks it is since he thinks most speakers have active crossovers....
I'm saying anyone looking at Bi-Amping is likely to have a better set of speakers that would support an active setup that's all. Of course there are many more inexpensive speakers out there that do not support it than do. The 'decent' ones we work with to achieve sound at the level you would be investigating a Bi-Amping situation would be what I'm suggesting. It's good that this topic comes up in such detail so folks can understand the details and challenges on the topic. The only real way to validate your speakers support Active Crossovers is to check the specs from the mfg before considering any of this, then you have to weight out where you want to invest your money, in better speakers or a better AMP.
 
I'm saying anyone looking at Bi-Amping is likely to have a better set of speakers that would support an active setup that's all. Of course there are many more inexpensive speakers out there that do not support it than do. The 'decent' ones we work with to achieve sound at the level you would be investigating a Bi-Amping situation would be what I'm suggesting. It's good that this topic comes up in such detail so folks can understand the details and challenges on the topic. The only real way to validate your speakers support Active Crossovers is to check the specs from the mfg before considering any of this, then you have to weight out where you want to invest your money, in better speakers or a better AMP.
It seems you don't know what an active crossover is particularly.
 
@hwest we need to clarify exactly what bi-amping is and does. So we can proceed with further discussion. I am a bit confused with your terminology due to it being a bit ambiguous sometimes.
 
It seems you don't know what an active crossover is particularly.
two-way-active-crossover.png
 
The vast majority of speakers do not allow the consumer to bypass the internal crossover, including the most expensive speakers. The "bi-amping" terminals on the back do not bypass the internal crossovers.
 
I tried more or less all the methods, biamping, biwiring, but I must confess that I obtained the best result with the utmost simplicity of the system.
Adding amplifiers, cables, power, is never a good idea.
But how many kilometers do we have to make our poor musical signal travel before reaching the speakers?
the path of complications never leads to anything good, it only adds variables that must then be contemplated and controlled.
Personally I use a DAC, a pre a power amplifier and the speakers.
If I need an Equalizer I use the Roon one.
I came from a system with Infinity Epsilon speakers, with a dedicated crossover and you had to connect two amplifiers, which I don't have the same, but different. A kilometer of cables and a job every time I had to turn on the system...
I have learned in recent years that simplicity pays off, complications give a headache....
 
I tried more or less all the methods, biamping, biwiring, but I must confess that I obtained the best result with the utmost simplicity of the system.
Bi-amping does have the benefit of being able to control the tweeter volume and the woofer volume individually almost like tone control but better.
But how many kilometers do we have to make our poor musical signal travel before reaching the speakers?
the path of complications never leads to anything good, it only adds variables that must then be contemplated and controlled.
The amount of audio signal path wire in a studio can be ridiculously high and so adding a few feet of speaker wire is not as bad as it might seem at first.
 
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