Aiyima A07 Max Amplifier Review

[ninetylol]

Well, no, technically I don’t: Amir’s reviews don’t measure one channel output. The only time I’ve ever seen that is in some of his AVR reviews (obviously excluding monoblock reviews)

If I had those measurements for one channel driven specs for the amps I’m talking about I wouldn’t be asking my question

I still appreciate your opinion though, so now it’s 1:1, one person saying there will be a minor bump even without the mono switch just powering one channel, and you saying there won’t be.

Good point on the power supplies, but I have a 48v5a V3 already. If I could measure the power output myself to determine the answer one and for all I would, but I’m not that tech savvy.

If you really need the power and both amps cost the same, why not just take the one with mono mode switch feature (which is exactly what you want)?

Maybe I dont understand the problem

 

[TheBatsEar]

Basically asking if an A07/Fosiv3 type amp would provide more power if only using a single channel

Yes, slightly. It won't make much of a difference, unless you drive your amps at the hard limit where they will be subject to heat protection anyway.

If that was for my home cinema, and i'm not an expert in these matters, i would get the cheapest, regardless of power for all the surround and height speakers, whatever is on sale, with a 32V power supply. For the mains and center i would try to get two Fosi V3 with 48v, not because they have a few watts more, but because they have good cooling and you are likely to get all of the watts out for some time.

Also, maybe your center supports bi-amping, that is you can spit tweeter from the woofers and connect one to the left and the other to the right channel. That would likely eek a bit more headroom out of it too. And then i would try to pick high sensitivity speakers from the start, to get more volume with the same input power.

Maybe it is worth it to start an entire thread about your setup.

 

[MCH]

I don’t know how the protection mechanisms of amplifiers work, but would this be correct?:

48V 5A power supply mono mode: 166W / 226W at 1%THD. But these numbers could get higher with a more powerful (more current capable) PSU

48V 5A power supply stereo mode: 138W and goes into protection: no way to get more power even with a more capable power supply (?)

If this is correct, if what you want is to extract the max power, the mono mode still makes sense.

 

[frabor]

Numbers will not get much higher even with with a 51V ( voltage used in spec sheet for calculations) and 10 Amperes. You would be getting into the 10 per cent thd and / or thermal shutdown as the amp cannot disipate more heat ( at 100 Watt per channel that is about ,20-30 Watts of heat and the dispator of the amp is too small for that IMHO

 

[frabor]

Mono mode gets better as you have all the cooling for a single channel.

 

[K.Kevin]

Yes, slightly. It won't make much of a difference, unless you drive your amps at the hard limit where they will be subject to heat protection anyway.

If that was for my home cinema, and i'm not an expert in these matters, i would get the cheapest, regardless of power for all the surround and height speakers, whatever is on sale, with a 32V power supply. For the mains and center i would try to get two Fosi V3 with 48v, not because they have a few watts more, but because they have good cooling and you are likely to get all of the watts out for some time.

Also, maybe your center supports bi-amping, that is you can spit tweeter from the woofers and connect one to the left and the other to the right channel. That would likely eek a bit more headroom out of it too. And then i would try to pick high sensitivity speakers from the start, to get more volume with the same input power.

Maybe it is worth it to start an entire thread about your setup.

Let’s say my center supports bi-amping… I don’t believe the Fosi V3 does, isn’t that an issue? How does biamping work? I only have a single rca pre-out for the center speaker coming out of my receiver, it would theoretically go into the left input of the Fosi V3, and then all I could use is the left speaker terminals of the amp?

 

[frabor]

In order to bi-amp a speaker with the Fosi, use a RCA y-cable spliter (one in two out) from the center pre-out of the receiver to the Fosi amp L R rcainput, them remove the jumper in the speaker binding posts shorting high and low, and wire one of the channel of the Fosi to high, the other to low. You will be using two speaker wires.

After that you should recalibrate the receiver as the level of the center might be have changed.

 

[K.Kevin]

In order to bi-amp a speaker with the Fosi, use a RCA y-cable spliter (one in two out) from the center pre-out of the receiver to the Fosi amp L R rcainput, them remove the jumper in the speaker binding posts shorting high and low, and wire one of the channel of the Fosi to high, the other to low. You will be using two speaker wires.

After that you should have to recalibrate the receiver as the level of the center might be have changed.

Thanks for explaining that. Sounds like a lot of work to run a new 12 gauge wire to the center, it is 40ft away from the cabinet, so I think I will pass but I appreciate the help

Could I get the same benefit by bi-wiring instead? By splitting the ends of the single positive and negative wire and feeding it into the left/right outputs on the Fosi? I would then keep the jumpers on the speaker as is as well. It is 12gauge speaker wire, so it could be thick enough to work with?

 

[Zek]

Could I get the same benefit by bi-wiring instead? By splitting the ends of the single positive and negative wire and feeding it into the left/right outputs on the Fosi?

Bi-wiring does not work that way - if you connect it like that, you put the left and right channels of the amplifier in parallel, which is not good for the amplifier.
Bi-wiring is when two wires are led from the speaker output on the amplifier (+ and -) to the speaker terminals (+ and -), which are separated into high and low frequencies.

 

[Baltima]

Hello Guys,

i use a Costom Speaker-Set (Selfmade Building). This Speaker-Set are 2 Ohm and i want a Amplifier for this.

How good is the 2 Ohm Performance of the A07 MAX and can used a 2v RCA PreAmp ?

The Powerhandling of the regular 3-Way Settig with 1x Low, are 150-200 Watt RMS @ 4 Ohm.
The Powerhandling of the Power Sertting with 2x Low, are 200-250 Watt RMS @ 2 Ohm

200 Watt RMS @ 2 Ohm are enough for one Side.

2x A07 Max 48v PSU and 63v Caps in "Mono" okay ?


This is a Link of this HighEnd Set:

HELIX C 63C

Facebok Beschreibung

www.audiotec-fischer.de

Im from Germany, thanks for Answere and sry for my Bad English.

Have a nice Day

 

[musicforcities]

Obviously the Fosi V3 the the key competitor to this new Aiyma. The fosi’s frequency dependency looks much more manageable

My prior gen Ayima a07 has quite bad channel imbalance on the volume pot until about 12-1 o’clock. Cheap pots. I just leave it at max or around 1 o’clock, depending on what I’m using it for and control volume digitally. But in my work office that means turning the digital volume very low as this little thing drives a pair of Jbl studio 530 to very loud levels very quickly. I have the smaller power supply too. So I’m loosing lots of bits.

My fossi v3 channel balance is extremely good at lower volumes, fwiw. And runs cooler with its big 48v power supply than my older A07 does with the smaller 32v one. And the extra power seems to drive the 530s to crest a more full sound at low volumes, if that makes sense. But that could just be subjective bias. I have not done extensive by side listening besides that. Either are pretty damn impressive for the price vs power. They seem to render lower power AB amps obsolete. They both sound cleaner and fuller than my old NAD 325BEE. Which also has bad channel balance at lower volumes.

 

[musicforcities]

Thanks for explaining that. Sounds like a lot of work to run a new 12 gauge wire to the center, it is 40ft away from the cabinet, so I think I will pass but I appreciate the help

Could I get the same benefit by bi-wiring instead? By splitting the ends of the single positive and negative wire and feeding it into the left/right outputs on the Fosi? I would then keep the jumpers on the speaker as is as well. It is 12gauge speaker wire, so it could be thick enough to work with?

No. First bi wiring does not work like that. Second, it has zero effect. A way to sell more cables. Just get thicker single run if you need a long distance.

 

[Baltima]

No. First bi wiring does not work like that. Second, it has zero effect. A way to sell more cables. Just get thicker single run if you need a long distance.

Hello musicforcity

this is the Wiring of the Speakers and the Jumpers on the Crossover. The Crossover are designed for 2 or 4 Ohm Load. Only one Channel (+/-) in the Amplifier

 

[375HP2482]

Hello Guys,

i use a Costom Speaker-Set (Selfmade Building). This Speaker-Set are 2 Ohm and i want a Amplifier for this.

How good is the 2 Ohm Performance of the A07 MAX and can used a 2v RCA PreAmp ?

The Powerhandling of the regular 3-Way Settig with 1x Low, are 150-200 Watt RMS @ 4 Ohm.
The Powerhandling of the Power Sertting with 2x Low, are 200-250 Watt RMS @ 2 Ohm

200 Watt RMS @ 2 Ohm are enough for one Side.

2x A07 Max 48v PSU and 63v Caps in "Mono" okay ?


This is a Link of this HighEnd Set:

HELIX C 63C

Facebok Beschreibung

www.audiotec-fischer.de

Im from Germany, thanks for Answere and sry for my Bad English.

Have a nice Day

The regular 36V 6A supply seems more optimized for PBTL mono operation into 2 ohms, over 200 watts in this mode.

 

[Baltima]

The regular 36V 6A supply seems more optimized for PBTL mono operation into 2 ohms, over 200 watts in this mode.

Hello 375HP2482,

is the Amplifier RCA Input 2v stable ?

 

[musicforcities]

Hello musicforcity

this is the Wiring of the Speakers and the Jumpers on the Crossover. The Crossover are designed for 2 or 4 Ohm Load. Only one Channel (+/-) in the Amplifier

See What zeke said above.

this is getting off topic I think. And into the weeds of crossover and speaker design.

In general though, unless you are actively Biamping with dsp (removing the crossover completely), bi amping has very little benefit. And bi-wiring zero. 12awg is more than enough for 40ft. Tweeters use far less watts than woofers and mid woofers so the issue of watts needed is moot.

You are better off getting an amp that is designed to produce the wattage you need for the speaker and room and listening habits.

And nominal 2ohm vs 4 at the crossover does not mean the impedance of the speaker will be those values. It’s far more complicated than that.

So if you biamp by using a rca splitter such that one A07 drives one speaker such that one channel drives the two low end drivers on one speaker and one channel drives the mid frequency tweeter, your just wasting most of the power in one channel and possibly creating weird load imbalances inside the amps. But the impedance loading is not going to make for a happy amp.

And unless I read it incorrectly, the the jumpers zek referred to are on the outside of the speaker, connecting the two sets of binding posts. You remove that if you are biwiring or biamping because the drivers have separate or at least electorally isolated crossovers inside. If you don’t have two sets of binding post and two (or more) distinct crossover circuits you can’t biamp. Or Biwire Which is fine cause it’s mostly pointless

I can’t be bothered to research that crossover to see if it even can biwire or biamp.

But hey, give it a shot. What’s the worst that could happen? You blow up two cheap amps, fry the crossover and melt the drivers. No biggie.

I’ve done worse myself experimenting with things early on…note to self: do not try to re wire to bridge an amp that does not have that capability built into it (as a switch etc); double check the polarity of large filter cap connections to bridge rectifier and use a dim bulb tester when turning amp on first time, etc.

 

[Baltima]

You can used the Crossover in 4 or 2 Ohm. Used the Crossover in 2 Ohm, the Impedance for the Mid and High is furthermore 4 Ohm.
Into the Crossover are a lot of Resistors.

1. is the A07 MAX (Mono, 2 Ohm, 200 Watt RMS) stable enough ?
2. 2v RCA Input okay ?

Thank You

 

[ninetylol]

@Baltima it got 1v input sensitivity, so if you input 2v you cant turn the volume to max

 

[Baltima]

@Baltima it got 1v input sensitivity, so if you input 2v you cant turn the volume to max

Thanks for Information

 

[musicforcities]

See What zeke said above.

this is getting off topic I think. And into the weeds of crossover and speaker design.

In general though, unless you are actively Biamping with dsp (removing the crossover completely), bi amping has very little benefit. And bi-wiring zero. 12awg is more than enough for 40ft. Tweeters use far less watts than woofers and mid woofers so the issue of watts needed is moot.

You are better off getting an amp that is designed to produce the wattage you need for the speaker and room and listening habits.

And nominal 2ohm vs 4 at the crossover does not mean the impedance of the speaker will be those values. It’s far more complicated than that.

So if you biamp by using a rca splitter such that one A07 drives one speaker such that one channel drives the two low end drivers on one speaker and one channel drives the mid frequency tweeter, your just wasting most of the power in one channel and possibly creating weird load imbalances inside the amps. But the impedance loading is not going to make for a happy amp.

And unless I read it incorrectly, the the jumpers zek referred to are on the outside of the speaker, connecting the two sets of binding posts. You remove that if you are biwiring or biamping because the drivers have separate or at least electorally isolated crossovers inside. If you don’t have two sets of binding post and two (or more) distinct crossover circuits you can’t biamp. Or Biwire Which is fine cause it’s mostly pointless

I can’t be bothered to research that crossover to see if it even can biwire or biamp.

But hey, give it a shot. What’s the worst that could happen? You blow up two cheap amps, fry the crossover and melt the drivers. No biggie.

I’ve done worse myself experimenting with things early on…note to self: do not try to re wire to bridge an amp that does not have that capability built into it (as a switch etc); double check the polarity of large filter cap connections to bridge rectifier and use a dim bulb tester when turning amp on first time, etc.

You can used the Crossover in 4 or 2 Ohm. Used the Crossover in 2 Ohm, the Impedance for the Mid and High is furthermore 4 Ohm.
Into the Crossover are a lot of Resistors.

1. is the A07 MAX (Mono, 2 Ohm, 200 Watt RMS) stable enough ?
2. 2v RCA Input okay ?

Thank You

The way I read it, if you connect two bass drivers to the crossover it is 2ohms, one bass driver only then 4 ohms. I presume the bass drivers are rated at 4ohms nominally and the crossover can connect two of these drivers in parallel which results in 2ohms nominal impedance. But depending on the crossover design, adding the mid and tweeter drives may bring the total impedance up to 4 nominally if all of them are driven by the same amp channel (not biamped). But I can’t be sure based on the info you provided.

More questions should be directed to a sub forum on the page having to do with diy and or diyaudio.com.