I don't see the purpose of Aerothan tubes. They're non-repairable, so if you have one you'll also need to carry a spare. Might as well go tubeless since you'll be carrying a spare tube anyway. And if your tube is only a spare, what is the point of the expensive Aerothan? You're not using it except in emergency, so you might as well carry a standard butyl.Tubeless is fine for mtb but not for ling distance touring as dealing with a puncture is a hassle. There is now also the ultralight Aerothan tube that is also more puncture resistant. However it is expensive and once it has stretched to a particular size you cannot use it with another size anymore.
Is your SRAM Red mechanical or electronic shifting? I'm about to replace my old road bike (21 years old, at least 15,000 miles). I want to avoid electronic shifting but that's getting increasingly harder to do on the mid-high end road bikes.... I’ve put more miles on my SRAM Red set and have to say, i love the mechanical precision and the single lever shifting mechanism. It’s so intuitive and quick shifting but I could live with any of the big three. If I bought a bike with any top group set, I would not swap it out. They all seem to work well enough but I’m more comfortable adjusting my SRAM stuff because I’ve owned it for so long.
If you like a good exercise you should just take an old heavy bike and ride that. That's give you a good exercise .Road bicycles are best for exercise because they promote performance. Exercise bicycle is a great way to burn calories and fat while also improving your cardio, lung, and muscles.
And there's not much point to carrying a spare tube, because any puncture that the sealant can't seal, is likely to be big enough tear in the tire that any tube you insert will "hernia" out the tear.
However, tubeless offers no real benefit for road bikes. The standards are not as consistent as they are for MTB, so it will limit your tire selection. And it's more complex, messier, and expensive. And it's not lighter. And it's not more efficient. The cleanest, best, most efficient setup on road bikes is to use clinchers with latex inner tubes.
Good advice.If you get a tear in the tyre, you can use something like a crisp packet to cover the hole and get you home, in the UK the new plastic bank notes also work quite well. Alternatively, keep a section of an old tyre, about 3 or 4 inches long, with the beads cut off, with your spare inner tube. ...
This comparison shows tubed with latex is just a bit lighter and lower rolling resistance than tubeless, all else equal (same wheel & tire). And tubed gives you more tire choices. With a tubeless MTB and tubed road bike, I have both and find tubed to be simpler & easier. With GP5000 700x23 tires and latex tubes I haven't yet gotten a flat over the past year / 1,000 miles (Of course, now that I've said that... knock on wood!)....I disagree about tubeless [on road tires], I've been running tubeless for a couple of years and and I've been really impressed; I haven't had to use my spare tube yet. When I removed a tyre, I found several thorns and small sharp stones, there's a fair bit of flint where I live, that had punctured the tyre through to the inner that I was completely unaware of. ...
Is your SRAM Red mechanical or electronic shifting? I'm about to replace my old road bike (21 years old, at least 15,000 miles). I want to avoid electronic shifting but that's getting increasingly harder to do on the mid-high end road bikes.
For comparison, it seems SRAM Red ~= Dura Ace, and SRAM Force ~= Ultegra... is that true?
Since thehouse arrestlockdown, I haven't been able to go to the gym as before. So waifu and I are looking to buy a (recumbent) exercise bike. I see them on-line with prices ranging from less than two hundred dollars, to two thousand. I just want something that is decent and going to last, and not fall apart. McIntosh quality for Topping prices. I don't need blue meters, or anything like that. LOL
Since I know that ASR members are all physically (and mentally) fit, I'm asking advice. Anyone have any suggestions on decent quality but not through the roof priced home exercise gear?
Why a recumbent? They were championed in the 1960s by Captain Dan Henry and are very eccentric. The rider is positioned very low so traffic visibility is an issue. I’d get a Specialized Sirrus or Trek equivalent because they are versatile and well built. 1k will get you a fine bicycle.Since thehouse arrestlockdown, I haven't been able to go to the gym as before. So waifu and I are looking to buy a (recumbent) exercise bike. I see them on-line with prices ranging from less than two hundred dollars, to two thousand. I just want something that is decent and going to last, and not fall apart. McIntosh quality for Topping prices. I don't need blue meters, or anything like that. LOL
Since I know that ASR members are all physically (and mentally) fit, I'm asking advice. Anyone have any suggestions on decent quality but not through the roof priced home exercise gear?
1) In the last year, since this post, I bought a pretty inexpensive exercise bike. From a big box store. Nothing fancy, but acceptable quality. It came more or less disassembled, and took an hour or so to bolt together. I changed out the seat to a more plush aftermarket design, as the original was quite hard and inflexible. I've gone over 1050 odometer miles on it.1) ... a cycling seat can ruin or disrupt your overall workout experience. The good thing is that there are a lot of ways you can follow on how to make the exercise bike seat more comfortable. 2) Although there is no exact posture that everyone must follow...
the guy on post 136 signed to a hifi forum to make a post about bike seats? might be a bot
The textual content certainly reads like a Bot. A lot of fluff and not really on point.the guy on post 136 signed to a hifi forum to make a post about bike seats? might be a bot
Bikes don‘t have seats. They have saddles…
The textual content certainly reads like a Bot. A lot of fluff and not really on point.