I don't see the purpose of Aerothan tubes. They're non-repairable, so if you have one you'll also need to carry a spare. Might as well go tubeless since you'll be carrying a spare tube anyway. And if your tube is only a spare, what is the point of the expensive Aerothan? You're not using it except in emergency, so you might as well carry a standard butyl.Tubeless is fine for mtb but not for ling distance touring as dealing with a puncture is a hassle. There is now also the ultralight Aerothan tube that is also more puncture resistant. However it is expensive and once it has stretched to a particular size you cannot use it with another size anymore.
Is your SRAM Red mechanical or electronic shifting? I'm about to replace my old road bike (21 years old, at least 15,000 miles). I want to avoid electronic shifting but that's getting increasingly harder to do on the mid-high end road bikes.... I’ve put more miles on my SRAM Red set and have to say, i love the mechanical precision and the single lever shifting mechanism. It’s so intuitive and quick shifting but I could live with any of the big three. If I bought a bike with any top group set, I would not swap it out. They all seem to work well enough but I’m more comfortable adjusting my SRAM stuff because I’ve owned it for so long.
If you like a good exercise you should just take an old heavy bike and ride that. That's give you a good exercise .Road bicycles are best for exercise because they promote performance. Exercise bicycle is a great way to burn calories and fat while also improving your cardio, lung, and muscles.
And there's not much point to carrying a spare tube, because any puncture that the sealant can't seal, is likely to be big enough tear in the tire that any tube you insert will "hernia" out the tear.
However, tubeless offers no real benefit for road bikes. The standards are not as consistent as they are for MTB, so it will limit your tire selection. And it's more complex, messier, and expensive. And it's not lighter. And it's not more efficient. The cleanest, best, most efficient setup on road bikes is to use clinchers with latex inner tubes.
Good advice.If you get a tear in the tyre, you can use something like a crisp packet to cover the hole and get you home, in the UK the new plastic bank notes also work quite well. Alternatively, keep a section of an old tyre, about 3 or 4 inches long, with the beads cut off, with your spare inner tube. ...
This comparison shows tubed with latex is just a bit lighter and lower rolling resistance than tubeless, all else equal (same wheel & tire). And tubed gives you more tire choices. With a tubeless MTB and tubed road bike, I have both and find tubed to be simpler & easier. With GP5000 700x23 tires and latex tubes I haven't yet gotten a flat over the past year / 1,000 miles (Of course, now that I've said that... knock on wood!)....I disagree about tubeless [on road tires], I've been running tubeless for a couple of years and and I've been really impressed; I haven't had to use my spare tube yet. When I removed a tyre, I found several thorns and small sharp stones, there's a fair bit of flint where I live, that had punctured the tyre through to the inner that I was completely unaware of. ...
Is your SRAM Red mechanical or electronic shifting? I'm about to replace my old road bike (21 years old, at least 15,000 miles). I want to avoid electronic shifting but that's getting increasingly harder to do on the mid-high end road bikes.
For comparison, it seems SRAM Red ~= Dura Ace, and SRAM Force ~= Ultegra... is that true?