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Thoughts on this stereo set-up, can I do better?

stemfencer

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Been doing a lot of research and reading with great help of this forum, so thank you. I am about to go ahead with my first serious system and appreciate if anyone has any feedback on the below or suggestions how to get more bang for buck.

setup.png

Some notes/context:
  • 80%+ music listening, predominately digital sources
  • Buying everything (except the NAS and RPi already own)
  • Want to keep door open for upgrading when more funds available, adding second sub and have a few vinyls so will add on budget TT as well
  • I want to get towers for purely for aesthetic reason, however appreciate with subs bookshelves are valid option
  • I am moving house a bit at the moment, so not sure what room these will be in in 1-2 years time, so like the idea of Dirac as can't size the speakers to room
  • I understand RPi USB can be noisy so will look at add Digi2 optical out on it and run Volumio
  • Stretching the budget a bit to get the subwoofer, I have been convinced if getting dirac unit may as well have one sub on hand from on-set if budget permits
  • I know spend as much money on speakers as you can, but based in France the Aria's are a steal and going up to Kanta range is serious coin (5x the price)
Still undecided:
  • Have not decided what sub yet, need to do more research here, perhaps something a bit smaller and faster although my partner is a movie buff
  • If I should just get a Node streamer, better UI and has trigger outs for the power amp. However I already have a Pi so much cheaper to put the Digi2 Pro hat on it and go. I am willing to pay money for "one button" convenience as I will be using this system for daily use such as listen to radio while cooking dinner etc.
Any other thoughts on set-up or beginner advice is greatly appreciated
 

Daverz

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Looks fantastic.

I've never had issues with RPi4 USB. RPi3 USB did have an issue for sample rates over 48kHz with some DACs.

You don't need a DSP in the subwoofer if you are using the Flex, if the included DSP in the SVS was a consideration. I have the same subwoofer, so not knocking it, and other options without DSP may not be significantly cheaper. The SVS DSP does add a 6ms delay.
 
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stemfencer

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Looks fantastic.

I've never had issues with RPi4 USB. RPi3 USB did have an issue for sample rates over 48kHz with some DACs.

You don't need a DSP in the subwoofer if you are using the Flex, if the included DSP in the SVS was a consideration. I have the same subwoofer, so not knocking it, and other options without DSP may not be significantly cheaper. The SVS DSP does add a 6ms delay.

Thanks for that! I have a 4B so hopefully ok, read issues of grounding issues through USB for the price of a hat might be worthwhile.

Good point about the sub, seems like I'm paying a premium for the SVS tech built into it so looking more at the Monolith and others in the comparison chart.
 

FeddyLost

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You need to evaluate your required SPL and distortion from mains.
Maybe you can use some standmounts/bookshelf speakers if your room or required loudness will be small.
It will save a lot of money and be much easier in relocation.
 

Erici

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Looks great!
Another option would be to use a Windows solid state PC. They are inexpensive, small, and quiet, and of course support all windows apps. @Archimago just reviewed one and integrated it into his system. He wrote a very thorough review (just as he usually does). Here is the link:
 

LTig

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  • Stretching the budget a bit to get the subwoofer, I have been convinced if getting dirac unit may as well have one sub on hand from on-set if budget permit.
What is your budget?
 

Daverz

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Thanks for that! I have a 4B so hopefully ok, read issues of grounding issues through USB for the price of a hat might be worthwhile.

Really, it's one of those audiophile nervosa type non-issues that come up so often on audiophile forums. I think a hat is completely unnecessary unless you need to stick with the RPi3 or don't have USB on your DAC.
 

Astrozombie

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Personal preference but I would go with Nord for the Amp. A PB-1000 or 2000. (Which is funny because I have the SB now, but for movies they say it's the way to go)
 

Chromatischism

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Have not decided what sub yet, need to do more research here, perhaps something a bit smaller and faster although my partner is a movie buff
I'll let the others comment on the rest, but a note on subwoofers: bigger drivers move less to displace the same amount of air and therefore don't have to work as hard, resulting in lower distortion and greater headroom. Also, there is no such thing as "fast" between small and large subs, but a speaker or sub lacking low bass extension might sound "fast". Ultimately it will be underwhelming, in my experience.

Make sure your electronics can implement a proper crossover been the speakers and sub and ideally also provide EQ.
 
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stemfencer

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Thank you everyone for the feedback and advice. Taking a big step-up gear wise so appreciate the feedback.
You need to evaluate your required SPL and distortion from mains.
Maybe you can use some standmounts/bookshelf speakers if your room or required loudness will be small.
It will save a lot of money and be much easier in relocation.
I'm certainly a low SPL listener, however caveat is I don't know what room will be in the future, also reason I'm thinking subwoofer system is good idea. In different thread I actually demo'd the Focal Aria bookshelf and towers, and enjoyed the bookshelves more in that small, non-EQ'd room. Real reason is, ever since I was younger getting my first bookshelves I wanted some floorstanders. I appreciate this is anobjective/measurement based audience, but even with some budget sand-filled stands the price delta is enough for me to swallow to get that floorstanders, even though the sub will be taking most of the low end anyway.

Looks great!
Another option would be to use a Windows solid state PC. They are inexpensive, small, and quiet, and of course support all windows apps. @Archimago just reviewed one and integrated it into his system. He wrote a very thorough review (just as he usually does). Here is the link:
Very good article! I already have the RPi 4B so seeing it as cost effective solution to get off the ground streaming wise, and if I gel with the software/platform. I also run my own server, and see there is a Volumio docker that I was thinking of deploying also over a dedicated SSID. But perhaps that is a techt discussion for another forum.

What is your budget?
It's all a bit loose to be honest, trying to find value but have something that won't immediately wanting more and can keep for long time. However the set-up in OP is certainly approaching the uppers of my comfortable range, and only recently decided to add subs based on feedback and review around here. Conventional advice is spend as much on speakers as you can, but next step up in Focal range in Kanta which is 3x the price Aria's. Regarding subwoofer, it's quality over quality, don't need a top end 15" to shake the home theater as my use case is hi-fi music listening. I was thinking sub $500-700ish can land me something good quality with intention of adding a second in 6 or 12 months time when funds available and I've done more set-up. Monolith 10" looking promising at the moment (some reason the 12" is not available in Europe).

Personal preference but I would go with Nord for the Amp. A PB-1000 or 2000. (Which is funny because I have the SB now, but for movies they say it's the way to go)
Have been looking at Nord's as travelling to UK a bit at the moment as well. Any reason those over Audiophonics, from what I can understand it's all the same internals more or less?

I'll let the others comment on the rest, but a note on subwoofers: bigger drivers move less to displace the same amount of air and therefore don't have to work as hard, resulting in lower distortion and greater headroom. Also, there is no such thing as "fast" between small and large subs, but a speaker or sub lacking low bass extension might sound "fast". Ultimately it will be underwhelming, in my experience.

Make sure your electronics can implement a proper crossover been the speakers and sub and ideally also provide EQ.
Thank you for feedback, admittedly have been focused on speaker and electronics research and just recently taking more serious look at subwoofers as was never on my radar. Appreciate the point on "fast", I am not a bass head so certainly looking for quality over quantity from the sub with good extension. The Monolith 10" is now looking like good proposition, and open the ports for movies (some reason the 12" is not sold in Europe otherwise would probably be the sweet spot for me).

Yes I plan on getting miniDSP product with Dirac and this should well and truely cover crossover and EQ requirements.
 

FeddyLost

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Conventional advice is spend as much on speakers as you can
As much as it gives reasonable increase in outcome, i'd say.
Some of very good speakers require even more expensive amplification, so it's not so easy.
Of course, avoid low-end cardboard crap if possible, even with flat FR. Good speaker motor and QA cost money.
Regarding subwoofer, it's quality over quality, don't need a top end 15" to shake the home theater as my use case is hi-fi music listening.
Hi-fi requires subwoofer (if possible) even better than HT. You'll need good speed and resolution, so most probably 15" sealed will be better than 10-12" ported with the same formal specifications.
I'd not buy subwoofer without independent tests with measurements. It's a lot more parameters than F3, and all they define performance.
 

JSmith

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Some of very good speakers require even more expensive amplification
How expensive... is there some kind of chart or table that outlines the minimum spend and are you certain it's simply not just the ability to drive the speaker regardless of price?


JSmith
 
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stemfencer

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As much as it gives reasonable increase in outcome, i'd say.
Some of very good speakers require even more expensive amplification, so it's not so easy.
Of course, avoid low-end cardboard crap if possible, even with flat FR. Good speaker motor and QA cost money.

Hi-fi requires subwoofer (if possible) even better than HT. You'll need good speed and resolution, so most probably 15" sealed will be better than 10-12" ported with the same formal specifications.
I'd not buy subwoofer without independent tests with measurements. It's a lot more parameters than F3, and all they define performance.
A lot of this comes to value, can always spend more to get better results. The Aria's 926s are harder to drive than spce sheets imply apparently, due to dipping down to 2.9ohms at around 100hz. However Hypex core module (150W into 8ohm)should offer the necessary juice.

A 15" subwoofer from SVS or similar is around the same price the Focal Aria 926 floorstanders for a pair in France. Pairing €500 Monolith 10" with intention of adding a second to €1250 pair of towers is what I see as reasonable, but welcome if people have experience a better to slice and dice the budget.
 

FeddyLost

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is there some kind of chart or table that outlines the minimum spend and are you certain it's simply not just the ability to drive the speaker regardless of price
Of course no. Usually manufacturers don't care much about cost of required equipment, if their speakers are already expensive. Big B&W and Dynaudio are examples of speakers that need good amps with ability to drive low impedances.
Ncore must handle them well, anyway, if thermal restrictions of long-term power will not arise.

A lot of this comes to value, can always spend more to get better results.
Then, I'd look at your current (or ready when system will arrive) room and approximate if any number of subwoofer will be really needed soon.
Maybe you'll be just fine with a pair of floorstanders, then don't slice the budget at all.
All this hassle with subwoofers is not mandatory, for example if you have big room with "soft" walls and/or roof, most probably you'll be able to get decent lows "for free". HT in concrete basement is totally different situation.
 

Eetu

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I think your setup looks awesome. The previous gen RPis had USB issues but you should be fine without a HAT on the RPi 4. I've had no issues with USB on mine.

I also think your reasoning with 906 vs 926 makes sense. When you've properly placed the 926s in your room and run Dirac the bass won't be slow or overpowering. A 3-way is going to be better in the mid-bass to low mids region even if crossing over to subs.

SB-1000 (Pro) is a very good choice. There's not a lot of subs available in EU that have such a good combination of performance, size and price. The Monoliths are great value but huge compared to the SVS.
 

TheBatsEar

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Thanks for that! I have a 4B so hopefully ok, read issues of grounding issues through USB for the price of a hat might be worthwhile.
I have a RPi4B connected to a MiniDSP 2x4HD. Works fine.

Good point about the sub, seems like I'm paying a premium for the SVS tech built into it so looking more at the Monolith and others in the comparison chart.
There is the SVS SB-1000 without Pro. But you can totally start with the speakers alone first.

I'm certainly a low SPL listener, however caveat is I don't know what room will be in the future, also reason I'm thinking subwoofer system is good idea. In different thread I actually demo'd the Focal Aria bookshelf and towers, and enjoyed the bookshelves more in that small, non-EQ'd room. Real reason is, ever since I was younger getting my first bookshelves I wanted some floorstanders. I appreciate this is anobjective/measurement based audience, but even with some budget sand-filled stands the price delta is enough for me to swallow to get that floorstanders, even though the sub will be taking most of the low end anyway.
Fair enough, there is more to consider than just value, otherwise we would all have headphones or something.
I have a pair of Focal Chorus 826V, the direct father of the 926. Very heavy, very able. They have that strange port that points down to the aluminium foot. Worth it. I enjoyed them very much. Make sure your amp is 4 ohm safe. The Chorus 826V dip to 3.2 ohms and certainly appreciates power.
I have since upgraded to something else (closed bookshelfs with a DIY sub), but still keep the Focals around for movie night (without sub in stereo and MiniDSPed).

Very good article! I already have the RPi 4B so seeing it as cost effective solution to get off the ground streaming wise, and if I gel with the software/platform. I also run my own server, and see there is a Volumio docker that I was thinking of deploying also over a dedicated SSID. But perhaps that is a techt discussion for another forum.
Moode here, works fine. My NAS is connected to the moode via NFS, which works fine as well.

Yes I plan on getting miniDSP product with Dirac and this should well and truely cover crossover and EQ requirements.
I have ordered a Flex as well, not sure yet about Dirac :).
 
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stemfencer

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I think your setup looks awesome. The previous gen RPis had USB issues but you should be fine without a HAT on the RPi 4. I've had no issues with USB on mine.

I also think your reasoning with 906 vs 926 makes sense. When you've properly placed the 926s in your room and run Dirac the bass won't be slow or overpowering. A 3-way is going to be better in the mid-bass to low mids region even if crossing over to subs.

SB-1000 (Pro) is a very good choice. There's not a lot of subs available in EU that have such a good combination of performance, size and price. The Monoliths are great value but huge compared to the SVS.
Thanks so much, appreciate going through the post. good to know about the USB issues as would prefer to keep optical slots open for expansion (tv perhaps) in the future, was reading mixed things about the USB ports. Agreed the EU market is not as favorable for subs more I am digging, Monolith looks like to much good value to pass up so might be the play, especailly plan on having Dirac. Will need to get some photos up when done!
 
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stemfencer

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I have a RPi4B connected to a MiniDSP 2x4HD. Works fine.

I have a pair of Focal Chorus 826V, the direct father of the 926. Very heavy, very able. They have that strange port that points down to the aluminium foot. Worth it. I enjoyed them very much. Make sure your amp is 4 ohm safe. The Chorus 826V dip to 3.2 ohms and certainly appreciates power.
I have since upgraded to something else (closed bookshelfs with a DIY sub), but still keep the Focals around for movie night (without sub in stereo and MiniDSPed).

I have ordered a Flex as well, not sure yet about Dirac :).

Another vote for the Rpi 4B on USB then, put the money from the hat towards a screen then! And indeed 926s very similar to 826, downward port and everything. People have measured the bookshelf equivalents (806 and 906) to be basically identical but getting a good deal on the 926s. The impedence dips to around 2.9ohms at 100hz so getting the Hypex module to be safe, and not a whole lot more than Topping PA5 or other Class Ds floating around.

Let me know how the Flex goes, still weighing up should go digital version and seperate DAC but probably reading to much into it as it measures incredibly well and subjective reports are positive also. Looks like Amir's review has cleaned out miniDSP of stock so got some time to think it over anyway :D
 
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stemfencer

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Update 15 Feb below - thank you for everyone's input, greatly appreciated

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