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Revel M106 Bookshelf Speaker Review

Dimitrov

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How would the Polk R200 compare to these speakers? I see they also objectively perform very well on the bench and are quite a bit less expensive.
 

tw 2022

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Silly to you maybe bc you like a neutral speaker.. but there’s a reason why not every manufacturer makes a neutral speaker and actually has sales from those speakers, and that’s bc not everyone enjoys a neutral speaker. I think I explained my own opinion perfectly well. There’s a reason why cars have tone controls or EQ. I find a neutral speaker to be more boring/bland/clinical, and I know others do as well.
i'm not saying they are the only "proper answer" to anyone's audio wants....that was a projected thought from your end... but most folks will prefer something very close to whatever measures close to neutral vs not...it's a "macro"dynamic vs a "micro" dynamic ....
 

Steve Dallas

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How would the Polk R200 compare to these speakers? I see they also objectively perform very well on the bench and are quite a bit less expensive.
The R200's dispersion pattern is about +/- 5 degrees narrower, is less smooth (controlled) overall, and its ring radiator tweeter starts to beam significantly around 6KHz. That means it will cast a narrower soundstage (not necessarily a bad thing) and be more sensitive to toe-in at high frequencies.
 

Chromatischism

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How would the Polk R200 compare to these speakers? I see they also objectively perform very well on the bench and are quite a bit less expensive.
From what I can gather, the biggest difference is that the ring radiator tweeter in the Polks narrows up in the higher frequencies more than the dome + waveguide approach on the Revel. This can be a pro or a con depending on how you plan to use them.

There may be differences in bass character as well. Would have to study the graphs.
 

norman bates

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how about woofer distortion (m106 vs r200) ?

I was like this close to getting the r600, but I am happy with what I have.
 

gino1961

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I had luck adding acusta-stuf inside.
For the objectionivists, you can see on danny's (gr research) video how it smoothed out the z-plot (helped with box resonances ?).

I also am a believer in diffraction control, so i added foam to the face.
Someday I'll plunk down $$ for f10 felt.
hi sorry to jump in
i am very curious to know the impact of using felts
i would like to try these to avoid acoustic treatment of ceiling and side walls
my wife would kill me
front wall and rear wall i have the permit to mess up them a little
Thanks a lot gino
 

norman bates

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Wouldn't affect side wall reflections at all (probably more open than 90 degree angle).

I use 1/2" F10 felt.

pm sent (subjective impressions).
 

norman bates

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looking at the impedance response of the m106, do you think there is a notch filter at 700hz ?
I'd assume it is knocking down a box resonance.

Also, some have thought this is the sb acoustics SB17NBAC35-4

I think the magnet on the m106 woof looks bigger than the magnet in the pictures on madisound.
I took out the woofer and the magnet is not much smaller than the frame.

I don't think the m106 has a copper cap unless the crossover has a bit of baffle step, but maybe the driver does due to the low harmonic distortion graphs above 300hz.

Whatcha think ?
 

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I did some searching but didn't find much. Has anyone had the chance to hear both the M106 and the Buchardt S400 MKII?
 

Chromatischism

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I vaguely recall one person on AVS Forum, but I don't remember the username.

I'm using the S400 MKII's with Revel S16's as surrounds and the combination is very good. It's hard to compare their sound because you'd need to high-pass the Buchardts to give a fair listen, but the match is close enough when using subs that the blend is very good for 5.1 or 7.1.
 

FlyingFreak

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Hello fellow M106 owners.

Not sure if this is the best place to post this question. Feel free to indicate to me a more suited thread if need be!

I recently join the club and it is getting time to add subs. It's a first for me to think to add subs to a hifi system (thanks to/because of this site). I am trying to figure out what to look for. I already have a minidsp Flex, so my little stereo set up is sub ready.

All I got so far is that a sub should be bought thinking about where the crossover should be applied at as well as the room they will be in (required SPL). For the M106, crossover should be made around 80-100hz, correct? So I need subs that are linear up to that point or pass that point? Anything else I should look for?

Thanks!
 

norman bates

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Welcome !!!!!!!!!!!!

Well, that is a big question.

Many have luck with a sub blending or disappearing, the lower you cross.

Some even run the speakers wide open and run the sub with the speakers, not rolling off bass to the mains.

For disappearing, I find a sub (or subs) should be under or between the speakers.

Where you cross depends on your ears and your volume levels.

Looking at the distortion plots on the m106 on the first page, you see distortion taking off below 200hz.
Still amazing for a 6" - 6.5" driver.
However, it still is a 6" 2-way.


If you want punishing volumes, I'd cross as high as 200hz, but your sub will be more localizable.

I do not cross my 106, but I use mine more as a monitor, me laying on a couch 10' away, mainly for late night casual listening to cd's, radio, or blurays. It sits exactly next to the middle of the tv.

I use other speakers also, a pair of 12" 2-ways 90% of the time, sitting playing cards 15' away, eating, hanging out, working out, or if wifey is up for watching Godzilla, lol.


Perhaps others can chime in on what they listen to (movies, rap, classic, etc), how loud, and how far away they sit.


Perhaps if you start a new thread titled "Where cross m106 to subs ?", you will probably get more looks.
 
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Steve Dallas

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Hello fellow M106 owners.

Not sure if this is the best place to post this question. Feel free to indicate to me a more suited thread if need be!

I recently join the club and it is getting time to add subs. It's a first for me to think to add subs to a hifi system (thanks to/because of this site). I am trying to figure out what to look for. I already have a minidsp Flex, so my little stereo set up is sub ready.

All I got so far is that a sub should be bought thinking about where the crossover should be applied at as well as the room they will be in (required SPL). For the M106, crossover should be made around 80-100hz, correct? So I need subs that are linear up to that point or pass that point? Anything else I should look for?

Thanks!

I would start (and probably end) at 80Hz. At that point, you are no longer asking the woofer to reproduce sub-bass, which greatly helps reduce distortion. Goal 1 is to fill in the bottom octave. Goal 2 is to reduce woofer distortion. 80Hz accomplishes both, assuming your chosen sub can go below 20Hz with room gain in play. Above 80Hz, bass progressively becomes localizable and, more importantly, male vocals begin to bleed into the crossover region and sub.
 
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